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Footwear to go with our jackets

dannyk

One Too Many
Messages
1,812
I think this has come up once or twice in the past but not any time recently. But Im going to say the same thing I always say whenever it does come up....It depends. In todays world theres just so many different shades of brown, black and everything in between; that I cant make a blanket statement of no brown with black or black with brown. Depending on the shade and look of the ensemble its totally doable to mix and look great doing it. Theres certainly plenty of browns and blacks that just clash waaaaayyy to much and I wouldnt mix those. But in the end I cant just say yes or no because of the variety available to us these days. Lots of options and looks.
 

Psant25

One Too Many
Messages
1,607
I like to mix and match. No problem wearing two shades of brown and one black (leather jacket, belt, boots). None of my browns are exact. I think thats pretty tough to do unless same leather belt and boot from the same company like alden or nicks. Sometimes I will go all three black but not often. Same goes for my feeling on shade of wood in a house (furniture, doors, trim, floors, etc). Gotta have some variety.
 

Dav

One Too Many
Messages
1,706
Location
Somerset, England
White's
IMG_20200823_111554.jpg
 

dudewuttheheck

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,422
@Robbie79 I would put flame panda WAAAAAAAAAY above Viberg. The stitching on the uppers is probably around equal to most similar Lofgrens, maybe ever so slightly less consistent spi, but still fantastic. However, the fact that he does handwelting and hand sewn outsole stitching is a major plus for him. I'd put him over Attractions as well, though their engineers are much better designed. He also actually does pretty good designs for the most part which a lot of these new small brands struggle with. His monkey boot and moc toe are especially good. Right now, I'd say his boots are probably third best that I have after White Kloud and Clinch with all things considered. I'm a big fan of his. I think I just went with the standard lining.
 

Turnip

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,351
Location
Europe
These are not wonder what, brand of both is Pierre Cardin, model of both is Lyon, older models.

The grey one is kind of Tweed fabric, the grey-green one is what they call Pima Cotton and just printed.
 

Robbie79

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,163
@Robbie79 I would put flame panda WAAAAAAAAAY above Viberg. The stitching on the uppers is probably around equal to most similar Lofgrens, maybe ever so slightly less consistent spi, but still fantastic. However, the fact that he does handwelting and hand sewn outsole stitching is a major plus for him. I'd put him over Attractions as well, though their engineers are much better designed. He also actually does pretty good designs for the most part which a lot of these new small brands struggle with. His monkey boot and moc toe are especially good. Right now, I'd say his boots are probably third best that I have after White Kloud and Clinch with all things considered. I'm a big fan of his. I think I just went with the standard lining.
@dudewuttheheck Thanks for your feedback and advice - thanks to your helpful and detailed review in your blog I decided to order them last week and paid a deposit for shipment around February. It was a joy to talk to Peng as he is really thankful (unfortunately not many are as thankful as he is!), friendly and straight forward. I was really torn between the Green Marbeled Shell Cordovan (would perfectly match my The Few Ortensia Badalassi jacket which has a similar colour variation) and Olive Shell Cordovan and also like their other horsehides from Maryam (not sure how the horsebutt is compared to Clinch's horsebutt) and Cloe. I finally decided to choose the Olive Shell Cordovan 8" Monkey boots (I can change my mind before Peng starts to manufacture them) with double leather sole and DrSole (not sure if quality is as good as e.g. Vibram). Not sure yet if I choose the Norvegese stitching and Kangaroo lining - I can decide this before he starts making them in January.
upload_2020-8-27_9-59-9.png


upload_2020-8-27_10-0-4.png
 

Robbie79

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,163
@dudewuttheheck Thanks for your feedback and advice - thanks to your helpful and detailed review in your blog I decided to order them last week and paid a deposit for shipment around February. It was a joy to talk to Peng as he is really thankful (unfortunately not many are as thankful as he is!), friendly and straight forward. I was really torn between the Green Marbeled Shell Cordovan (would perfectly match my The Few Ortensia Badalassi jacket which has a similar colour variation) and Olive Shell Cordovan and also like their other horsehides from Maryam (not sure how the horsebutt is compared to Clinch's horsebutt) and Cloe. I finally decided to choose the Olive Shell Cordovan 8" Monkey boots (I can change my mind before Peng starts to manufacture them) with double leather sole and DrSole (not sure if quality is as good as e.g. Vibram). Not sure yet if I choose the Norvegese stitching and Kangaroo lining - I can decide this before he starts making them in January.
View attachment 256632

View attachment 256633
Here's a better pic of the marbeled green shell cordovan...the other one was dark green - marbeled green shell cordovan combo
95796295_284786292554078_8492705349223608818_n.jpg
 

dudewuttheheck

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,422
@dudewuttheheck Thanks for your feedback and advice - thanks to your helpful and detailed review in your blog I decided to order them last week and paid a deposit for shipment around February. It was a joy to talk to Peng as he is really thankful (unfortunately not many are as thankful as he is!), friendly and straight forward. I was really torn between the Green Marbeled Shell Cordovan (would perfectly match my The Few Ortensia Badalassi jacket which has a similar colour variation) and Olive Shell Cordovan and also like their other horsehides from Maryam (not sure how the horsebutt is compared to Clinch's horsebutt) and Cloe. I finally decided to choose the Olive Shell Cordovan 8" Monkey boots (I can change my mind before Peng starts to manufacture them) with double leather sole and DrSole (not sure if quality is as good as e.g. Vibram). Not sure yet if I choose the Norvegese stitching and Kangaroo lining - I can decide this before he starts making them in January.
View attachment 256632

View attachment 256633
Awesome! Glad to be a bad influence ;)
Peng is a wonderful person and he is definitely someone you feel great about giving your business to. He also makes excellent boots, especially for the price. As I said, I have some better ones, but his work is stellar and a great value for money. My monkey boots from him are one of my favorite pairs.

Both of those leathers are very cool and unique. I think on its own I prefer the olive, but I love the idea of the marbled green matching fairly well with your Ortensia jacket. Have you shown that piece off here before? That is an absolute stunner of a jacket and I would love to see more of it.
 

Dav

One Too Many
Messages
1,706
Location
Somerset, England
So what makes shell better than say cxl?
Is it softer, more flexible, more stretchy, I can see that it's clearly shinier but apart from that what makes it so desirable?
My understanding is that getting it wet ruins it, is that right, which to me makes it about as much use as carpet slippers.
 

Robbie79

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,163
So what makes shell better than say cxl?
Is it softer, more flexible, more stretchy, I can see that it's clearly shinier but apart from that what makes it so desirable?
My understanding is that getting it wet ruins it, is that right, which to me makes it about as much use as carpet slippers.
The Shells are just very rare (makes it more desirable) as it is just a small part of the whole horsehide (please see below image) but I doubt that it's less sturdy than CXL - perhaps other members can comment that better than I can do.

I've also found following information in another forum:
Horsebutt feels more like shell cordovan while horsefronts have a softer hand like the typical horween fqhh on an hh jacket. The difference on the rough side is also obvious. The rough side is less nappy down in the butt.

Here's also a Youtube link on
How Shell Cordovan Leather is Made - Pit Tanning at Horween

leather+varieties


Horse (butt) strips are sold by horween as a by product of shell cordovan. The mustache shaped remnants in the above video are horse strips

Horween horse strips are often too narrow for shoe uppers, so its more often used for small leather crafts or welting. In japan or anywhere else outside of NA, horse strips are not sold seapartely. If you want horse strips in japan, you will need to buy a full horsebutt hide like this


Horse butt and horse rump are the same thing afaik. The italian tanneries call it horse rump and the japanese call it horsebutt. Horween cuts the horsebutt into different sub sections (stripes and cordovan) and finishes them differently for sale
 

Dav

One Too Many
Messages
1,706
Location
Somerset, England
Thanks for the reply. So it's availability then that demands the price, bit like fillet steak, rather than it actually being better. That's fair enough I get that, suppose I should invest really, could see for myself then.
 

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