Footwear to go with our jackets

[Pandemic]

Not the best example of a woodsman heel, but this gives you an idea of the e difference:

 

[dudewuttheheck]

Jake, I know you might be tired of explaining it… but could you just give me a hint what are the major differences between Cuban and woodmans heel?

These are examples of woodsman heels:

You can see that they start to angle inward, but then curve back to being straight or nearly straight by the point that they get to the bottom of the heel. They are not all the same in terms of angle and curve with the Onderhoud being too extreme in my opinion, but all of these are examples of woodsman heels. The woodsman heel is also called the logger heel.
This is a Cuban heel:

You can see that it angles in much more sharply and that angle does not stop. It's more of a straight angle and does not have any curve.

Similar to the cuban heel is the dogger heel:

It's not as small in footprint and maybe not as harsh in angle, but you can see that it does not have that curve of the woodsman heel. It just angles in and does not level out at all. Many cowboy boots have some similar heels to these and Cuban heels.

Great read. All on point and my very limited experience with US made boots corresponds with what you've written. Shame Frye is no longer in the competition.



Should I not be mistaken, Woodsman or Logger heels are curved at the back with a slight taper while Cuban heels are more angled with a dramatic taper and often (much) higher.

Thanks! Really appreciate that! Yes it is a shame. I wish they were still on Red Wing level. Would give more solid options.

Yes, that is essentially the difference between the two.

Totally. For my order, I want the heel a tad taller and more Cuban than woodsman: the curve or angle of a Cuban but with the greater base area (ie greater length of heel base extending towards toe) of the woodsman style.



View attachment 365176

Ah so you are trying to do some sort of dogger heel then?

 

[Marc mndt]

New article on USA made boots: https://almostvintagestyle.com/2021/09/29/the-top-ten-made-in-usa-boots-best-american-made-boots/

@Pandemic that is a woodsman heel, NOT a Cuban heel.

Interesting read, thanks.

"Most of them just do not match up to competition from makers in the UK(...)"

Which Amekaji/heritage style makers from the UK are you referring to? (I don't know any). Only one I can think of is Joseph Cheaney, but they are mediocre at best in terms of qc.

 

[Pandemic]

^
Thanks, I had not heard that term before, but dogger heel does sounds like what I have in mind.

 

[Monitor]

I don't have a single pair of boots that don't have Cuban heel.

 

[TREEMAN]

These break in nicely. Not the steel toe big klunky look …Chippewa!

 

[dudewuttheheck]

Interesting read, thanks.

"Most of them just do not match up to competition from makers in the UK(...)"

Which Amekaji/heritage style makers from the UK are you referring to? (I don't know any). Only one I can think of is Joseph Cheaney, but they are mediocre at best in terms of qc.

I'm not saying sny of the UK makers are amekaji. Just saying non dress boots in general. So trickers, Crockett and Jones, certain certain from Edward Green and John lobb. There's a few guys from our scene that wear Edward green boots

 

[andyone]

@Monitor @Pandemic @dudewuttheheck
Thank you all for the explanation - I got it finally!

 

[Rich22]

Cuban heels don't seem very common in London, and when I have spotted them they've been on shorter guys. I love boots, and have various types of soles and heels, but the ones I wear more often are the ones which are more flexible and less rigid underfoot.

 

[Psant25]

Liking my new whites distressed rough out boots so far. 8 inch, soft toe, 55 last, single row stitch, low block heel, 430 vib sole

 

[Turnip]

Timberland Gridworks Soft Toe

 

[Rich22]

Liking my new whites distressed rough out boots so far. 8 inch, soft toe, 55 last, single row stitch, low block heel, 430 vib sole View attachment 365438 View attachment 365439

I think you've chosen the best looking boot they sell, and a good choice of leather too. Excellent choice! The CXL boots I've seen have not aged gracefully (most of their legacy boots appear to be CXL). I love the look of CXL jackets, but boots, like Wolverine's 1000 miles, don't crease nicely.

Edit: I should add that a lot of makers utilise almost the entirety of hides, whilst the very top end makers discard perhaps 60% of each hide, to chose the most desirable grain, which will be less prone to thick, excessive, creasing or lifting of grain. In $400 shoes/boots I'd actively avoid CXL, but at $600 I don't know what to expect... perhaps by that price point they're cherry picking the best bits?

 

[Edward]

Took me a long time to 'get' Cuban versus woodsman heels. The Woodsman shape are very rare here in the UK outside niche US-style (though often Japanese made) vintage design workboots and bike boots. Cuban heels is a common term here. Both have their place, though definitely the woodsman style is a lot less likely to see the wearer go over on their ankle, especially if you step heel-first like I tend to. (Had to totally relearn to walk toes-first in my Rocky Horror days!)

Allen Edmonds Alumnus and Aero 30s Half Belt both in Chromexcel:
View attachment 364888

Gorgeous hat, what is it?

Navy suede brogue boots (Tricker's Henry). Vi-Lite sole, feels like I am wearing Vans. Nice change from the hardcore commandos.
View attachment 364952
View attachment 364953

How you you find the elastic panel ages in a boot like that? I've only ever had a boot with elasticated sides for costume wear before, rathe than day to day. Do they hold up over time? Can they be replaced if needsbe?

I don't have a single pair of boots that don't have Cuban heel.

"Bonjourno, Boys!"

I like the chunky zip on the top left. I've looked at a lot of zip-side boots recently with an eye on them for cold-weather air travel when that comes around again (late 2022 most probably for me). So many have tiny, fiddly zips I wouldn't trust long term. That one looks well solid. A boot the shape on the one bottom-left with a zip-side like that would be a very nice option.

Cuban heels don't seem very common in London, and when I have spotted them they've been on shorter guys. I love boots, and have various types of soles and heels, but the ones I wear more often are the ones which are more flexible and less rigid underfoot.

Not many of the teddy boy revivalists favour the cuban-heeled winkle pickers now. The only other subcultures I'm aware of seeming them are the country & western side of things and the goths. They're a rare thing to see outside of cowboy boots, certainly. I suspect a lot of mainstream men see them as "high heels and therefore effeminate"... I do know a guy back in Belfast who wears boots like Monitor's most of the time, and he's six four in his socks!

 

[Rich22]

I had a smart pair of Chelsea boots that I used to wear for work, that I loved. They had elastic both sides, that survived perfectly intact for the 7 or 8 years I had the boots. They fit like a sock, and if they'd have been made from better leather I'd still have them. I've struggled since to find other boots without laces that fit snugly enough to comfortably wear for a whole day.

 

[Monitor]

I like the chunky zip on the top left. I've looked at a lot of zip-side boots recently with an eye on them for cold-weather air travel when that comes around again (late 2022 most probably for me). So many have tiny, fiddly zips I wouldn't trust long term. That one looks well solid. A boot the shape on the one bottom-left with a zip-side like that would be a very nice option.

One with the chunky zip is by From the First. Beautiful pair, well made, tough. These guys started off as a SLP knock-off company but developed their own style which is IMO a mix of cowboy boots and winkle-pickers. I didn't wear them very much, though, as I'm currently living in Sendras, a pair right next to them (top-right). Funny thing about these; It's the model Sendra named Kansas and it's the exact same boot they were making for Saint Laurent, only in different leather.

The bottom-left is my favorite pair of them all and one I'm more and more reluctant to wear as the realization that a replacement isn't a possibility, slowly sets in. They are Prada, one-off style they released for just one season and that's that. I can't even find a photo of the same model in different size online, let alone another pair for sale!

They're striking because of the exaggerated shape, something that attracted me to them without even realizing it at first. But yeah, best shape of them all, including SLP's. They're the best purchase I've made in years and once again, only thanks to @Marc mndt who freaking went to pick them up in person for me!

I suspect a lot of mainstream men see them as "high heels and therefore effeminate"... I do know a guy back in Belfast who wears boots like Monitor's most of the time, and he's six four in his socks!

These kinda boots already got me more compliments than all the jackets combined. I had people on the street asking me if I've had them hand made or something along those lines. Lol, not sure why'd this specific question. I wasn't sure about the heels at first (I'm 185 cm or so and never had any height issues, I just love the look of these boots) but it's no issue. Engineer boots have tall heels too.

 

[El Marro]

I'm probably a philistine and screwed up by my trail running shoes, because somehow I think the Heritage shoes look pretty good (if the heel isn't too high), but are actually rather uncomfortable. At least they are my Iron Ranger. Will try redwing me toe and rover soon. Maybe they are more comfortable. Otherwise, I'm afraid I'll have to stick with Timberland and Sorel after all. Lol

Everyone has different feet but I did not find the Red Wing Heritage boots to be very comfortable either. I far prefer the boots I own from Whites and Wesco which have a higher arch and seem to cradle my foot better. I would recommend trying something with those guys before giving up on the style entirely.

 

[MrProper]

Everyone has different feet but I did not find the Red Wing Heritage boots to be very comfortable either. I far prefer the boots I own from Whites and Wesco which have a higher arch and seem to cradle my foot better. I would recommend trying something with those guys before giving up on the style entirely.

Thanks for the hints.
It's not that they don't work at all, just the "most comfortable shoes there are" I can't relate to.
I now have a pair of Red Wing Moc Toes, which are more comfortable than the Iron Ranger. Probably because the sole is simply softer.
But eventually they all broke in and then it should work. lol

 

[Rich22]

I can imagine the Moc Toes are comfortable, because my Red Wing Chukkas share the same sole and are my most comfortable boots, that I can happily wear all day. When I was younger I wasn't much of a boot fan, but I now find it easy to buy comfortable pairs. The only time I'd avoid boots for comfort reasons is if I know I have a LOT of walking to do in a day.

 

[Canuck Panda]

@Edward
The elastic will wear out, I think they are just there for easy entry. And not for securing the foot in place; that would still depend on last shape. Shoe lasts are tricky thing. Everyone has different shape arch and foot shape. Finding a last that fits takes some luck. Another thing to consider is the length of time we wear our shoes/boots. It will always be a little lose in the morning and gets stuffy by noon when the foot swollen up. Very tricky thing.

 

[TheOldFashioned]

Gorgeous hat, what is it?

Thanks! It's a vintage Mallory. You can find more pics and details in this old post in the Hats section of the forum.