Five Star Leather Jackets

[Observe]

So am I! Yeah I thought the proportions looked off in comparison to the original but actually it looks like they’ve graded the pattern in line with what Cal do. Note the pocket placement, which is very different to the original but quite close to the 36 Cal. I should also say I’m very unlikely to be wearing it fully cinched!

I'm not a pattern expert but I'd imagine there's more to it than just scaling everything up/down by a certain percentage depending on size.

 

[Bahabp100]

View attachment 596653 View attachment 596654 To me it looks a little like the ratio of front to back panel has been messed with. It could be a difference in the pictures but I want to check so will request panel measurements. Any thoughts from those with this jacket in other sizes @Bahabp100 & @Canuck Panda ?

Also, would a competent pattern grading involve reducing the height of the kidney panel to keep dimensions similar or no? I guess my kidneys may be the same size as a larger person…

Is this the 1960s Cal or the 1940s model

 

[unhatted]

Is this the 1960s Cal or the 1940s model

The 1960s one (I think) with the zip sleeves and no badge holder!

 

[Bahabp100]

View attachment 596653 View attachment 596654 To me it looks a little like the ratio of front to back panel has been messed with. It could be a difference in the pictures but I want to check so will request panel measurements. Any thoughts from those with this jacket in other sizes @Bahabp100 & @Canuck Panda ?

Also, would a competent pattern grading involve reducing the height of the kidney panel to keep dimensions similar or no? I guess my kidneys may be the same size as a larger person…

Replicate and Replications: Once you start customizing a vintage jacket replica pattern 2 things will happen
1) you risk fit issues
2)you are changing the integrity of a tried and true replica pattern and it’s not a replica
Anymore
When I ordered the Call Replica I just told Shawn to replicate the jacket with no changes I didn’t change the zippers or move the pockets etc and it came out perfect
with only the standard pit to pit etc measurements provided . It arrived and fit perfect

Other custom jackets I got from them all
have issues and I’m dissatisfied.
But the replica, which is a replica of Cal Leathers 1960s CHP CZ is perfect .
I wouldn’t change a thing with the pattern especially attempting any Fraken-Jacket elements . Add this (one stars, belt loops- coin pocket) delete that (epaulettes - you get the idea) You mustn’t crowbar part of a jacket onto a replica or really change anything for best results. DO NOT: see above

the returned jacket was Similar leather same thread same lining same zips same laces same Kidney panel even the same leather zipper ties/pulls ( what are that those thingies actually called) the same “no label Cal” same size penciled in the pocket (you feel me ?)

PS the belt he provided was very weak think just thin crap and the buckle was embarrassing and when he told me that to replicate the belt basket weave he’d have to spend $50K US so I let him offf the hook on the belt, but I’d enquirer before if your jacket comes With one

 

[Bahabp100]

Is this the 1960s Cal or the 1940s model

The 1960s one (I think) with the zip sleeves and no badge holder!

Yup that’s the one original and replica

 

[Canuck Panda]

Have just been sent QC images. I have to admit that despite being very happy with a previous jacket, the recent commentary on here (particularly @PilotJens experience) has had me second guessing the decision. But this looks like what I had expected with no tape manipulation. The lining is maybe a little billowy but other than that it looks good to my eyes. Am I missing anything before I approve? Obviously I have no way of knowing if the goatskin is minimum 1.2mm as requested! View attachment 596622 View attachment 596623 View attachment 596624 View attachment 596625 View attachment 596626 View attachment 596627 View attachment 596628 View attachment 596629

The only way to know for sure is if someone who has this size in vintage Cal and can put a tape to their jacket and chime in.

Personally I think it looks fine and looks like you lucked out on the better cuts of the goatskin. My only issue with the Cals design is that they're riding length in the front, which doesn't really work for me on a daily purpose, but that has nothing to do with the design more to do with my own preference.

You can ask Shawn to make the belt loops and send them unattached they're easy to put them on yourself if you wanted them at a later date.

 

[unhatted]

Replicate and Replications: Once you start customizing a vintage jacket replica pattern 2 things will happen
1) you risk fit issues
2)you are changing the integrity of a tried and true replica pattern and it’s not a replica
Anymore
When I ordered the Call Replica I just told Shawn to replicate the jacket with no changes I didn’t change the zippers or move the pockets etc and it came out perfect
with only the standard pit to pit etc measurements provided . It arrived and fit perfect

Other custom jackets I got from them all
have issues and I’m dissatisfied.
But the replica, which is a replica of Cal Leathers 1960s CHP CZ is perfect .
I wouldn’t change a thing with the pattern especially attempting any Fraken-Jacket elements . Add this (one stars, belt loops- coin pocket) delete that (epaulettes - you get the idea) You mustn’t crowbar part of a jacket onto a replica or really change anything for best results. DO NOT: see above

the returned jacket was Similar leather same thread same lining same zips same laces same Kidney panel even the same leather zipper ties/pulls ( what are that those thingies actually called) the same “no label Cal” same size penciled in the pocket (you feel me ?)

PS the belt he provided was very weak think just thin crap and the buckle was embarrassing and when he told me that to replicate the belt basket weave he’d have to spend $50K US so I let him offf the hook on the belt, but I’d enquirer before if your jacket comes With one View attachment 596688 View attachment 596689 View attachment 596690 View attachment 596691 View attachment 596692 View attachment 596693 View attachment 596694 View attachment 596695 View attachment 596696

Thanks for the pics and all good advice! To be clear, I didn’t really try to customise the proportions or ask for any changes, I just asked for it about 1.5 sizes smaller than they run to and changed the hide to goat as I liked their other goatskin jacket! The deleted belt loops were a misunderstanding—I knew the belt itself wasn’t worth having so told them to leave it out. Should have clarified!!!

 

[Bahabp100]

The only way to know for sure is if someone who has this size in vintage Cal and can put a tape to their jacket and chime in.

Personally I think it looks fine and looks like you lucked out on the better cuts of the goatskin. My only issue with the Cals design is that they're riding length in the front, which doesn't really work for me on a daily purpose, but that has nothing to do with the design more to do with my own preference.

You can ask Shawn to make the belt loops and send them unattached they're easy to put them on yourself if you wanted them at a later date.

TBH I think it looks great too

 

[PilotJens]

Shawn replied to my concerns.

They will check their inventory of lining materials to see where it came from and to see if other colours are affected.

Leather thickness is 1.2 mm with the current cow hide .The 1.4mm was only on request .
The 1.2mm black cowhide is semi veg and milled .That's probably why it smells different (slightly welllll "animalistic")

They apologized and offered me to return or replace so I cannot complain anymore.

 

[PilotJens]

Keep the lacing on your back it gives a nicer silhouette

 

[PilotJens]

The excess lining might be because of my recent custom where I told them the linings could have a bit more room to accommodate the stretching/shaping of the leather. The leather can stretch about 4-6cm im circumference depending on the size of the jacket.

The sleeves actually need quite a bit of excessiv lining to get comfortable.They rounded out the lining on mine to create the round leather once it's worn

 

[unhatted]

Grateful for everyone’s thoughts! Have requested the belt loops (sent an image of a smaller cal for the layout as the panels are so different in size to the original)—will post better pics on arrival.

 

[unhatted]

Ok now I am frustrated. They have put them on upside down. Also suspect back ones are significantly higher than the front ones.

 

[ton312]

View attachment 597215 View attachment 597214

Ok now I am frustrated. They have put them on upside down. Also suspect back ones are significantly higher than the front ones.

They can just reverse the snaps, it's easy to do.

 

[PilotJens]

I have a feeling that new factory/moved factory means new /fresh employees which seems to create some mayhem currently . I think they need some time to settle down again

 

[spectre6000]

It appears I'll not be cracking the Fivestar code after all. I went round and round with Shawn and Fargham trying to get leather samples. All the means, methods, and addresses, including a cold video chat at one point. Could not get the communication to work well enough for it to happen. I told Shawn I had a design I was working on, and was down to the final details trying to nail them down in an attempt to let him know I was seriously trying to buy a jacket, and not just trying to get tiny pieces of random hides. He asked to see it, so I sent him a link with the warning that it was a draft, and that I was still finalizing the details. I had 38 pages of photos, notes, and annotated drawings, etc., but was still working on figuring out the specifics of the darts. He told me he didn't want to make it because I was TOO DETAILED, and if they missed 1 or 2, they'd have to remake it. I responded to that email to try to salvage the effort, but he's no longer responding. So... ...

We know from extensive collective experience that not providing enough detail leaves the door open for (often incorrect) interpretation and assumptions and guesswork. The solution to this problem is apparently NOT to eliminate the need for any guesswork or assumptions by providing those details (or even let slip that you have said details in draft form). Wish I could say what the answer actually is (and have a great jacket to show for it), but that's all I got and all I'll likely be able to get. Major bummer. Did not see that one coming...

At least it didn't cost me anything but time. I learned a lot in the process, and seem to have maybe found a cool new project to work on in the evenings as time, space, budget, etc. allow.

So... I guess I'll be shifting my focus to just making something from scratch over a much longer period of time, and at much greater expense...

 

[handymike]

I think you are now on the correct path!

 

[KBlake]

It appears I'll not be cracking the Fivestar code after all. I went round and round with Shawn and Fargham trying to get leather samples. All the means, methods, and addresses, including a cold video chat at one point. Could not get the communication to work well enough for it to happen. I told Shawn I had a design I was working on, and was down to the final details trying to nail them down in an attempt to let him know I was seriously trying to buy a jacket, and not just trying to get tiny pieces of random hides. He asked to see it, so I sent him a link with the warning that it was a draft, and that I was still finalizing the details. I had 38 pages of photos, notes, and annotated drawings, etc., but was still working on figuring out the specifics of the darts. He told me he didn't want to make it because I was TOO DETAILED, and if they missed 1 or 2, they'd have to remake it. I responded to that email to try to salvage the effort, but he's no longer responding. So... ...

View attachment 598129

We know from extensive collective experience that not providing enough detail leaves the door open for (often incorrect) interpretation and assumptions and guesswork. The solution to this problem is apparently NOT to eliminate the need for any guesswork or assumptions by providing those details (or even let slip that you have said details in draft form). Wish I could say what the answer actually is (and have a great jacket to show for it), but that's all I got and all I'll likely be able to get. Major bummer. Did not see that one coming...

At least it didn't cost me anything but time. I learned a lot in the process, and seem to have maybe found a cool new project to work on in the evenings as time, space, budget, etc. allow.

So... I guess I'll be shifting my focus to just making something from scratch over a much longer period of time, and at much greater expense...

It’s not surprising that he punted when he saw 38 pages of specs lol.

 

[spectre6000]

Lots of photos and white space between photos.

 

[El Marro]

It appears I'll not be cracking the Fivestar code after all.

This is great news! Call Johnson Leather and have them make you a jacket that fits.