Five Star Leather Jackets

[Yamahana]

I can’t wait for you to accept that it’s too large and sell it to me.

If'n he does sell it to you, I'm calling 1st dibbs when you decide to move it along.

 

[ton312]

If'n he does sell it to you, I'm calling 1st dibbs when you decide to move it along.

I suspect we’d both better not hold our breath!

 

[KBlake]

I went back to look at your 5* jacket, and the front length looks about 22" when compared to the 26" sleeve length. If my guess is correct, then it's best to give Aero this front length information so they don't make your jacket with too much front overhang.
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Also the Levis/Aero patterns are quite slim. It felt too tight for me even with the Comipel leather which is softer than CXL. But I do love the CXL finish. Maybe CXL SH, that one feels more pliable from the start than the FQHH. Or Pinnacle, that leather has nice finish but also very soft hand.

I am not sure how long your 5* jackets are. But I have their stock size 46 half belt with 23" front, it's almost 27" in the back because the straight hem, very different than the Aero/Levis jackets you're looking at. When in doubt, give the maker as much info as possible.

My 5* jacket with 23" front length and 27" back length, low rise jeans. But there is no curve on the side so it covers more of the side pocket in the front than the RC, which is somewhat close to the Aero but less drop ratio.

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Custom Aero jackets are quite a bit more than the custom 5*, it's better that they have as much info to build it so you end up with a good result.

Wow, you're right. The front length is 22". I'll reach out to Holly at Aero. I hope at this point they can still make this change.

 

[Marc mndt]

I hope at this point they can still make this change.

What change do you have in mind? Shorter back or remove the front drop?

 

[KBlake]

What change do you have in mind? Shorter back or remove the front drop?

Requesting that the front be no more than 22”.

 

[Marc mndt]

Requesting that the front be no more than 22”.

Personally I feel like this style does need a fair bit of front drop. That's what makes the Aviator style interesting imo.

 

[KBlake]

Personally I feel like this style does need a fair bit of front drop. That's what makes the Aviator style interesting imo.

Yeah, but if it’s mid thigh that won’t look right.

 

[Hide'n'seek]

Wow, you're right. The front length is 22". I'll reach out to Holly at Aero. I hope at this point they can still make this change.

I'll jump in here. We really wouldn't want to start mucking around with the design. We are happy to make height related length adjustments but these adjustments are done full circumference to keep to original proportions of the design. (It is also no so straight forward changing drop on a cross zip pattern.
We have agreed to bring this pattern out of hibernation but not to mess with it.

 

[fasthall]

Long time lurker here. I've skimmed through 400 pages in this thread before I ordered my first custom order from Fivestar. I think they nailed the measurements, and the fit is exactly how I want it.
It's a trucker built with the russet brown goatskin used on their Doniger A2, with a detachable mouton.

For the first-time order, I'm really happy with how it turned out. However, I think this will be my last order as well.
Just from the look, I think the fit is epic. Fivestar did nothing wrong with measurements. I even like the goatskin leather. Color aside, it feels on par with Aero goatskin I've owned twice. I don't have problems with the sleeve attaching issue many experienced, but here is the problem. After wearing the jacket for a few minutes, I can feel the collar putting pressure on the back of my neck. It's very subtle, but I don't feel comfortable wearing it for a long period, as I'm concerned it'll cause health issues. I compared the jacket to my other perfect-fitting jackets used for reference, and I can't find what's causing the issue, so even if I want to correct it in my next order I wouldn't know how. I guess this is the pattern issue mentioned several times in this thread. Actually... the pressure may come from the hanger loop being caught between the collar and mouton. I let it out and adjusted the angle and it *feels* it's better, but I need to wear it more to see if it's my hallucination.

All in all, it's really fun and I don't regret a bit doing it. Would I do it again if I'd known the outcome? Probably, I've set my expectations right. Will I order another jacket? No. I'll probably keep this jacket for photoshoots, or leave it in the trunk for those weather you're not sure if you can drive a convertible top down.

I'm already doing research on Johnson Leathers for my next build. I'll probably order a very similar jacket from JL eventually lol. Any other M2M recommendation? I've tried Aero but their fits don't really fit me. Cal Leather is semi local but I haven't read many reviews for their modern jackets.

 

[Aloysius]

Is the collar pressure as bad when you aren't wearing the mouton collar?

How does the leather smell? That was my big issue with the Doniger.

My understanding is that modern Cal is still fantastic, just quite expensive.

 

[KBlake]

I'll jump in here. We really wouldn't want to start mucking around with the design. We are happy to make height related length adjustments but these adjustments are done full circumference to keep to original proportions of the design. (It is also no so straight forward changing drop on a cross zip pattern.
We have agreed to bring this pattern out of hibernation but not to mess with it.

This is reasonable. The length was only adjust a quarter inch, so not too much mucking

 

[Hide'n'seek]

This is reasonable. The length was only adjust a quarter inch, so not too much mucking

No problem at all on length adjustment but it is full circumference so what we add to back also goes on front.
We work from back lengths, we don't allow you to specify front length differently.

 

[fasthall]

Is the collar pressure as bad when you aren't wearing the mouton collar?

How does the leather smell? That was my big issue with the Doniger.

My understanding is that modern Cal is still fantastic, just quite expensive.

Not as bad, but I *think* I can still feel it.
I'm guessing my slightly sloped shoulder is bringing down the collar band hence putting pressure on my neck, but I've never experienced this before with other makers, heritage of fashion brands. There's not a huge difference in measurements either.

It smells like any leather jacket. I've bought a Pakistan-made leather jacket with a terrible smell before so I think I know what people are talking about, but this Fivestar smells fine.

Yup cost is another consideration. From my understanding, a custom Cal costs ~50% more than JL.

Actually... the pressure may come from the hanger loop being caught between the collar and mouton. I let it out and adjusted the angle and it *feels* it's better, but I need to wear it more to see if it's my hallucination.

 

[KBlake]

No problem at all on length adjustment but it is full circumference so what we add to back also goes on front.
We work from back lengths, we don't allow you to specify front length differently.

In that case, I probably should have left the back as is.

 

[MrProper]

it feels on par with Aero goatskin

I think the fit looks good so far.
But for the life of me, I can't believe that the Goat is comparable to the Aero Goat.
Then 5* would have to have changed a lot.
As I don't have an Aero goat, this is of course only my assumption, but from pictures I would see differences.
I had the same jacket and I didn't like the milk chocolate colour so much. But the main point was that there was so much top coat on the leather that it felt like plastic. The thick top coat also covered one or two blemishes on the leather (cracks on the surface of the leather).
But at least the buttons seem to have been changed and are now better. I had to replace mine because they rang and some fell off quite quickly.
If the hanger is the problem at the neck, I would cut it off without further ado. I never use the hanger and now make sure when ordering that one is not sewn on in the first place. At 5* I have noticed that the jacket loses its shape at the neck when the hanger is used.

 

[fasthall]

I think the fit looks good so far.
But for the life of me, I can't believe that the Goat is comparable to the Aero Goat.
Then 5* would have to have changed a lot.
As I don't have an Aero goat, this is of course only my assumption, but from pictures I would see differences.
I had the same jacket and I didn't like the milk chocolate colour so much. But the main point was that there was so much top coat on the leather that it felt like plastic. The thick top coat also covered one or two blemishes on the leather (cracks on the surface of the leather).
But at least the buttons seem to have been changed and are now better. I had to replace mine because they rang and some fell off quite quickly.
If the hanger is the problem at the neck, I would cut it off without further ado. I never use the hanger and now make sure when ordering that one is not sewn on in the first place. At 5* I have noticed that the jacket loses its shape at the neck when the hanger is used.

Okay, it may be a hyperbole. The Aero goatskin I had was in a different color and I sold it many years ago, but I do feel the way it wears on my body feels very similar.
You're right about the topcoat. It does seem heavier but it doesn't feel terrible.

I've seen your trucker photos many times (and learned a lot about the ordering process from your post), but I'm not sure our goatskin is the same color. I think Fivestar specifically developed this brown for Doniger A2 so I specifically asked for it. It has more reddish undertone than the regular russet. I could be wrong though.

 

[Canuck Panda]

I have a (sort of) goatskin jacket from Aero, and I still have a couple of goatskin jackets from Shawn. Aero's goatskin has a nicer top finishing, it doesn't look as flat. BUT Shawn's goatskin isn't too shabby either. And once I factored in the cost difference, I still stand by Shawn's goatskins. If I were still a patron at 5*, I'd, ask him to overdye it black with a wax top coat. (Waxy teacore black goatskin), but I've moved onto the 4.5oz goatskins and shrunken grain ones, which neither Aero or Shawn currently offers.

Aero goatskin

Shawn's goatskin

The biggest issue I have with Shawn's goatskin was the one time QC mistake. The seal jacket in the middle came with thin 2oz hide when I asked for heavier hides. The rest were all thicker hides. So it's best to double check thickness at the QC photo stage.



As for the collar and neck pressure on the Type 3's, most Type 3's I have from different makers all have the shirt style collar which will give some neck pressure, except the slim fit Type3 pattern from Johnson, that one came with a jacket collar so more comfortable, but remember to adjust lengths to your needs,
Medium 3.5oz deerskin

Large, 5oz goatskin, this jacket is over 8 pounds in weight, but the front is 23" front collar down, and sleeves are close to 27", I am using the cuff buttons to stack them.

The collars are very comfortable on this pattern, just customize your length.

 

[Aloysius]

@Canuck Panda do you know if Johnson currently has any of their super goat in stock? I’m visiting soon and want to check it out.

 

[Canuck Panda]

@Canuck Panda do you know if Johnson currently has any of their super goat in stock? I’m visiting soon and want to check it out.

Not that I know of. The 5oz goat was like a one time thing. The other ones I've got is more 4oz. But it doesn't hurt to ask. US tanneries are actually major player in goatskin leather too. Langlitz also use very high quality goatskins, it's just pricey, they want more money (I think +$200) for the goat than their motochap cowhide.

There is also the 5oz Bison, it could be a very good alternative to the 5oz goatskin. Bison hides can also be very pliable like goatskin and also feel like very strong hides, with really natural grains.

There is also the shrunken grain horsehide, that leather I know they have in stock still. I will report back when I get my jacket.

I feel if you get a JL jacket it's gotta be in a (wearable, soft temper) heavier (4.5oz plus) leather to get the most of it. Most of their patterns I've got can handle the thicker hides, almost created with it in mind. 5oz softer leather feels like a very thick sweatshirt, feels very heavy duty but also very wearable.

 

[Aloysius]

I feel if you get a JL jacket it's gotta be in a (wearable, soft temper) heavier (4.5oz plus) leather to get the most of it. Most of their patterns I've got can handle the thicker hides, almost created with it in mind. 5oz softer leather feels like a very thick sweatshirt, feels very heavy duty but also very wearable.

Exactly my thinking. I’m most likely going to go with one of their own CHP variants, probably a WWL. Deciding between straight and cross zip is tricky though. Also wanted quilted padding.