Five Star Leather Jackets

[born113]

I think the temper and ultimate grain development is somewhat set from the get go.

Thanks a lot. I assumed it. I will try to arrange with 5* that they make me a jacket from absolutely uniform leather. And I suspect they will indicate the price twice as high in this case

 

[ton312]

Thanks a lot. I assumed it. I will try to arrange with 5* that they make me a jacket from absolutely uniform leather. And I suspect they will indicate the price twice as high in this case

I don’t think they would raise the price but it may prove difficult to achieve. Even with my Aero CXL jackets, when I had a desire for grainy or smooth finishes, the process of making the jacket lends itself to irregularity in the hide.

 

[abbaralph]

Is “pull up” a color or type of finish or dying process?

 

[ton312]

Is “pull up” a color or type of finish or dying process?

It’s a term that relates to behavior. Pull up means stress will lighten the color, a result from wax and oil stuffing.

 

[Monitor]

Thanks a lot. I assumed it. I will try to arrange with 5* that they make me a jacket from absolutely uniform leather. And I suspect they will indicate the price twice as high in this case

Maybe you don't really like leather at all, because uniformness of the texture (which in such a case halts being a texture anymore) is literally opposite to what leather is and should be about?

It's the variation, the character, the unexpected that is the most attractive property of leather, something that homogeneity annihilates. Case in point, "corrected" grain leather.

 

[abbaralph]

It’s a term that relates to behavior. Pull up means stress will lighten the color, a result from wax and oil stuffing.

Forgive my ignorance, it’s not like teacore where a color underneath will come through but rather the way it ages is different than other leathers? It looks more worn over time than other finishes of leather will?

 

[ton312]

Forgive my ignorance, it’s not like teacore where a color underneath will come through but rather the way it ages is different than other leathers? It looks more worn over time than other finishes of leather will?

It could well be a teacore leather but I suspect it is not. Hard to say not having handled it but it looks dyed through. Not much lighter on the rough out side (at least from the zipper pull). To me, it looks fairly uniform for a pull-up hide (which is good imo). Sometimes pull up can be very dramatic. Like in the case of this Vanson, where you can clearly see the oil and waxes light/dark contrast even standing still. For me this was just a bit too much, but certainly beautiful.

 

[Marc mndt]

Forgive my ignorance, it’s not like teacore where a color underneath will come through but rather the way it ages is different than other leathers?

Teacore is topcoat wearing off to reveal the brown (vegetable tanned) core.

Pull up is the effect of waxes moving around within the leather.

Pull up leather explained - Fletcher Handmade

What is pull up leather? Pull up leathers are leathers that have been treated with a blend of oils and waxes to create a specific look and feel. What are pull up leathers? Buy pull up leather online.

fletcherhandmade.co.uk

 

[MrProper]

Heart is beating!!! Ships today. DHL please for the love of God be quick.
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Which lining did you order?
Polyester satin? I'm wondering if I should try that too, or stick with the tried and true heavy cotton drill?

 

[ton312]

Which lining did you order?
Polyester satin? I'm wondering if I should try that too, or stick with the tried and true heavy cotton drill?

Indeed I used the same LGBT friendly purple satin that my black HB has. It feels durable and allows for a very trim fit to slide on/off without any grabbing of the sleeves.

 

[MrProper]

Indeed I used the same LGBT friendly purple satin that my black HB has. It feels durable and allows for a very trim fit to slide on/off without any grabbing of the sleeves.

Many thanks. Purple is cool.

 

[born113]

Maybe you don't really like leather at all, because uniformness of the texture (which in such a case halts being a texture anymore) is literally opposite to what leather is and should be about?

It's the variation, the character, the unexpected that is the most attractive property of leather, something that homogeneity annihilates. Case in point, "corrected" grain leather.

I don’t like a lot of things in the world, but in this case I know what I want.

 

[Hobbes1]

Heart is beating!!! Ships today. DHL please for the love of God be quick.
View attachment 407130 View attachment 407131

Yep. All the elements are there. Looks great! I'm interested in your take on the HH once in hand. Best wishes for speedy DHL!!

 

[ton312]

Yep. All the elements are there. Looks great! I'm interested in your take on the HH once in hand. Best wishes for speedy DHL!!

I’m just dying to get it in my hands. My goal was to recreate something like this delicate old Knopf. To me, based on how the shoulders behave when folded, I expect them to be similar leathers in terms of weight and drape.

 

[KBlake]

I just got my half belt from 5* and have some reservations about the pointy collar. I'm sure this is a period correct design choice that is coveted among aficionados but to me it is not as flattering as the spread collar found on other 5* civilian jackets. I'm very tempted to take this to a seamstress who has helped me with my custom leather motorcycle seats to have 1" taken off the point. The fear of course is that it won't come out looking right.

My other gripe with this jacket is too much material in the armpit area. Does one just ask for higher armholes to prevent this going forward?

 

[MrProper]

I just got my half belt from 5* and have some reservations about the pointy collar. I'm sure this is a period correct design choice that is coveted among aficionados but to me it is not as flattering as the spread collar found on other 5* civilian jackets. I'm very tempted to take this to a seamstress who has helped me with my custom leather motorcycle seats to have 1" taken off the point. The fear of course is that it won't come out looking right.

My other gripe with this jacket is too much material in the armpit area. Does one just ask for higher armholes to prevent this going forward?

The collar is fine as it is.
But just still new. It will be best if you wet it properly and bring it into shape. 1 inch less seems too much to me.

 

[ton312]

I just got my half belt from 5* and have some reservations about the pointy collar. I'm sure this is a period correct design choice that is coveted among aficionados but to me it is not as flattering as the spread collar found on other 5* civilian jackets. I'm very tempted to take this to a seamstress who has helped me with my custom leather motorcycle seats to have 1" taken off the point. The fear of course is that it won't come out looking right.

My other gripe with this jacket is too much material in the armpit area. Does one just ask for higher armholes to prevent this going forward?

That collar looks superb! Just needs a little water and some shaping so that it looks more like this:

And yes higher armholes will absolutely help trim the fat in the pits (if you mean at the sleeves).

 

[KBlake]

Just ordered the roadmaster cross zip in seal brown HH. Got it wIt no epaulets on the shoulders, no belt loops on the skirt, no snap buttons on the lapels/collar, no right hand warmer pocket, no chest pocket, no lighter pocket. Just the large d pocket but no zipper. Should be a really clean, toned down cross zip. Hard to decide which HH to go with on this.

 

[ton312]

Just ordered the roadmaster cross zip in seal brown HH. Got it wIt no epaulets on the shoulders, no belt loops on the skirt, no snap buttons on the lapels/collar, no right hand warmer pocket, no chest pocket, no lighter pocket. Just the large d pocket but no zipper. Should be a really clean, toned down cross zip. Hard to decide which HH to go with on this.

There are some experimental horsehides you could ask about. I nearly jumped on the second from left.

 

[troika]

Two questions for the 5* gurus:

- has Shawn figured out better jean/tack buttons to use for trucker jackets? I hate the "flexible" ones that he uses, where the post is on a bearing or wtv. I know a few folks here just ended up getting theirs without buttons at all and used their own.

- what is the lightest color leather that 5* carries? Is it the conic brown goat? I'm trying to get a light tan color, like a gently aged natural veg tan or something.