Five Star Leather Jackets

[Imuricecreamman]

Both the shoulder and the waist are pattern 'issues'. Giving the jacket some more taper to the waist is a relatively easy job. Addressing the shoulder issue, not so much.

Most j-100 copies have pretty pointy shoulders from what I've seen. Atleast from new.

 

[Hh121]

Vanson model b

 

[Monitor]

I just got them, Shawn said he used somebody who doesn't have my body measurements and the shoulders are not pointy.

I will have the sleeves altered before he sends the jacket.

View attachment 310204

View attachment 310207

View attachment 310209

View attachment 310210

Tell them to narrow those cuffs. Zipped, sleeves must be skintight.

 

[Marc mndt]

Most j-100 copies have pretty pointy shoulders from what I've seen. Atleast from new.

I thought I saw a hint of this but I hope I'm mistaken.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/five-star-leather-jackets.101762/page-31#post-2735470

 

[Imuricecreamman]

I thought I saw a hint of this but I hope I'm mistaken.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/five-star-leather-jackets.101762/page-31#post-2735470

Probably based on the same pattern/construction, but those shoulders seem to have been specced too wide for his build as well.

 

[Imuricecreamman]

This is my cossack straight out of the box. I think the issue would be Even less pronounced with a 0,5-1 reduction in shoulder width.

 

[Marc mndt]

Probably based on the same pattern/construction, but those shoulders seem to have been specced too wide for his build as well.

I think you're right. This example may be more of an shoulder width issue than a pattern issue.

 

[Marc mndt]

@Riu I just realized I might be knitpicking. Please don't let my comments spoil your fun.

This is me enjoying my cr with pointy shoulders and huge upper arms.

 

[Hh121]

I don't like pointy shoulders, what can I tell 5star to avoid that? Any advice?

 

[handymike]

Best to fix the issues while the jacket is still at Five Star.
Shoulders, taper, arms...get it correct now!

 

[Marc mndt]

I don't like pointy shoulders, what can I tell 5star to avoid that? Any advice?

Tbh, I don't know how to address it. My best guess would be to slightly alter the slope of the shoulder.

 

[air]

Tbh, I don't know how to address it. My best guess would be to slightly alter the slope of the shoulder.

View attachment 310256

Do you think the extra thickness at the shoulder seam can hold it up a bit too?

 

[El Marro]

This is a road I’m glad I never went down ...

Why...?

I think I understand what @TREEMAN meant and I will explain why I feel the same way.
With 5* you are given almost total control over the design of your jacket and we have seen many times where this has yielded awesome results, particularly in the cases of @MrProper and @ton312.
But with this total control also comes the opportunity to totally screw up and we have seen some of that as well. Often times the screwup’s are not catastrophic, but they do significantly affect the look of the jacket and the satisfaction of its owner.
For someone like myself I would rather pay a premium to have my jacket built by someone who I consider to be a journeyman (or better) level maker working with patterns that have been developed and refined to be the best they can be.
I am not saying that you cannot get this level of fit and function from 5*, just saying that it takes more knowledge and concentration than I care to have in this area.
Shoot, I get all nervous just worrying about shoulder and P2P measurements, there is no way I could do the 5* thing without having a nervous break down!

 

[red devil]

It is also worthwhile noting that the best fitting jackets that came out were on athletic looking members. When you are in shape everything looks better.

Here is your incentive to improve your nutrition and train regularly!

 

[MrProper]

I don't like pointy shoulders, what can I tell 5star to avoid that? Any advice?

With the shoulder width, take 2 cm less and ask for rounded shoulders. If the shoulders of the jacket are too wide and the angle of the sleeves to the shoulder is too steep, then you get these pointy shoulders. If the angle is rather flat, then it fits.

 

[Riu]

They will address the sleeves tomorrow, would be interesting to see how the shoulders problem can be addressed.

I'm not bothered at all by any feedback. If I wanted ignorance I wouldn't have joined this forum in the first place.

To me it's the angle, I made a comparison and it's pretty obvious. What do you think?

 

[MrProper]

They will address the sleeves tomorrow, would be interesting to see how the shoulders problem can be addressed.

I'm not bothered at all by any feedback. If I wanted ignorance I wouldn't have joined this forum in the first place.

To me it's the angle, I made a comparison and it's pretty obvious. What do you think? View attachment 310315

that's what I mean by the steep angle

 

[MrProper]

My western/trucker shirt jacket has arrived. Workmanship flawless, fit exactly as I wanted it to be. Unfortunately, the leather doesn't convince me because it is too thin and too soft for my taste. But I knew what I was getting into. Examine tomorrow in daylight.
And no pointy shoulders

 

[Riu]

With the shoulder width, take 2 cm less and ask for rounded shoulders. If the shoulders of the jacket are too wide and the angle of the sleeves to the shoulder is too steep, then you get these pointy shoulders. If the angle is rather flat, then it fits.

that's what I mean by the steep angle
View attachment 310319

That makes perfect sense

 

[Riu]

My western/trucker shirt jacket has arrived. Workmanship flawless, fit exactly as I wanted it to be. Unfortunately, the leather doesn't convince me because it is too thin and too soft for my taste. But I knew what I was getting into. Examine tomorrow in daylight.
And no pointy shoulders View attachment 310320 View attachment 310321

Looks great! Leather is too thin for my taste as well. You’ve got a few jackets already from 5* and I remember you said in one of your earliest posts that you said round shoulders when you were talking to Shawn.