Five Star Leather Jackets

[navetsea]

Jackets and hide look beautiful HH, my jackets all have narrow sleeves, on my last one in veg tan, i barely can bend my elbow not even 45 degree the first few weeks i have it, and since the leather is stiff the creases on the inside of the elbow fold deeply and cutting my blood flow, now i can move relatively freely in it, the elbow doesnt expand but the surrounding area just getting soft and the creases are more naturally formed so it gives way without folding deeply into my arm anymore.

 

[Hh121]

Thanks for your input, guys!
Here are the pics of the comparison between Aero and 5star, they basically share the same measurement so I really don't know where is the problem.

 

[abone]

@Hh121 Measurements the same. The only difference is the new jacket has the arm seam a little lower down the arm, and newer leather.
Curious, I went and tried my Vanson Oxford Whidbey on which I consider a near perfect fit, albeit snug. It’s heavy cowhide. Can’t layer much, if at all. Lifted my arms straight up and out from my body and sure enough, the jacket lifted from the waist.
My Vanson is almost a year old now and I don’t consider it close to being broken in yet.
So unless that arm seam is a problem, and I can’t see why it would be, I’d just wear the hell out of the thing.

 

[navetsea]

sometime the leather is too thick the shoulder gusset has not operating yet, just keep wearing it.

and creases on the inside of your elbow are still too 2 dimensional, I usually grab the cuff with my 4 fingers, and rotate my forearm to twist the sleeve, and bend my elbow, rotate in then bend, rotate out then bend, it creates different creases pattern around the forearm and elbow and make it softer faster.

So the creases are more criss crossing and more ready to accomodate your movements.

 

[Carlos840]

I like how it fits, especially from the front, it looks really sharp. You nailed the placement and type of pockets too.

The bi-swing back ends very high up (blue circles), for certain movements it may not engage enough and you will be pulling on outermost piece of the back panel instead. There is some extra material in the middle back area , between the end of the bi-swing back and the half belt (red circle), because the leather is still stiff it holds the bi-swing back a little bit too high up (green circle), not letting it engage properly when you move. Maybe when the leather softens it will sit lower and movement will improve.

View attachment 300635

View attachment 300636

It's hard to tell through the screen, but the right sleeve looks wider in the bicep area in both the front and back pictures. The bi-swing back also looks a little bit asymmetric, but I think that's because of the wrinkles in the middle back.

I'm not sure the red circle is extra material.
To me it just looks like the jacket is 1" too long and resting on his butt rather than stopping above it.
It's pretty obvious in the side shot.
The solution IMO would be to make the jacket shorter, and maybe the bottom hem slightly tighter to make up for the fact hat it will end at a narrower point on his body.

 

[Kubatu]

I am curious what a jacket like this would look like in leather. Very similar to the trucker @torfjord had created, but going a bit further into the wrangler archives. I've been interested in a casual jacket that I could get a lot of wear out in the summer, so maybe I'll reach out to five star about it.

 

[air]

I am curious what a jacket like this would look like in leather. Very similar to the trucker @torfjord had created, but going a bit further into the wrangler archives. I've been interested in a casual jacket that I could get a lot of wear out in the summer, so maybe I'll reach out to five star about it.

For light jackets you can just send it to five star to copy and have them send it back with your new jacket. In case you don't own it, look in ebay for the cheapest one, maybe send it straight to 5* to save on the shipping.
This trucker would be a mean unlined jacket.

 

[Kubatu]

For light jackets you can just send it to five star to copy and have them send it back with your new jacket. In case you don't own it, look in ebay for the cheapest one, maybe send it straight to 5* to save on the shipping.
This trucker would be a mean unlined jacket.

That would make things a lot easier. Unfortunately, I don't own this jacket, and they don't go cheap. The style is the 24MJZ, which is more uncommon than the later versions which had buttons instead of a zipper. Plus Brad Pitt wore it in a Tarantino film, so that probably drove the price up. Anyway, it basically starts at $300 on ebay now, which is a bummer.

 

[bn1966]

I am curious what a jacket like this would look like in leather. Very similar to the trucker @torfjord had created, but going a bit further into the wrangler archives. I've been interested in a casual jacket that I could get a lot of wear out in the summer, so maybe I'll reach out to five star about it.

I like that a lot, especially the bi swing back. Just found one on the bay in my size £380......

 

[air]

Thanks for your input, guys!
Here are the pics of the comparison between Aero and 5star, they basically share the same measurement so I really don't know where is the problem.
View attachment 300653 View attachment 300652 View attachment 300654 View attachment 300651
View attachment 300660

I've traced the back silhouette of the left side of both jackets, the aero is in red and the 5* is in blue. Top drawing is a side by side comparison as a composite. Botom is an overlay, both images are matched at the center of the back, marked in black. Length came out the same in the tracing so scaling wasn't necessary. Sleeves and collar where not traced.

Among the differences, you can see that the design of the bi-swing back is shaped more like a C in the aero, while it is more straight in the 5*. The shoulder panel is also taller in the aero, while the shoulder is more sloped.
Width at the shoulder is the same for both jackets, but the aero's back is overall wider, especially in the middle panel of the back.
Bear in mind that the side panels are wrinkled in the pictures, size in the drawings does not reflect reality.

 

[air]

I like that a lot, especially the bi swing back. Just found one on the bay in my size £380......

A leather copy by five star will be cheaper

 

[ton312]

Man this place sometimes really brings this to mind in almost painful fashion.

my advice to HH would be to simply enjoy the jacket. It looks fab in my opinion and gets better by the day.

 

[Hh121]

I've traced the back silhouette of the left side of both jackets, the aero is in red and the 5* is in blue. Top drawing is a side by side comparison as a composite. Botom is an overlay, both images are matched at the center of the back, marked in black. Length came out the same in the tracing so scaling wasn't necessary. Sleeves and collar where not traced.


View attachment 300829


Among the differences, you can see that the design of the bi-swing back is shaped more like a C in the aero, while it is more straight in the 5*. The shoulder panel is also taller in the aero, while the shoulder is more sloped.
Width at the shoulder is the same for both jackets, but the aero's back is overall wider, especially in the middle panel of the back.
Bear in mind that the side panels are wrinkled in the pictures, size in the drawings does not reflect reality.

very helpful, thank you!

 

[Hh121]

Man this place sometimes really brings this to mind in almost painful fashion.
View attachment 300840
my advice to HH would be to simply enjoy the jacket. It looks fab in my opinion and gets better by the day.

Thanks! The jacket will be sent back for sleeves remake when I ship the new cxl hide to him, he still has some leather left that is enough for making both sleeves.

 

[navetsea]

Thanks! The jacket will be sent back for sleeves remake when I ship the new cxl hide to him, he still has some leather left that is enough for making both sleeves.

i think your slim sleeve looks great probably it will settle in just fine after some wear , I know shoulder gussets are typically only on the rear panel, but if you want extra movement, shoulder gusset all the way until reaching the side seam including the side panel, would make a lot of more movement.

 

[Hh121]

i think your slim sleeve looks great probably it will settle in just fine after some wear , I know shoulder gussets are typically only on the rear panel, but if you want extra movement, shoulder gusset all the way until reaching the side seam including the side panel, would make a lot of more movement.

You are right, the elbow area is already lots of better than the first day I received it. At this point I will just add half-inch to bicep, elbow and forearm.

 

[torfjord]

You are right, the elbow area is already lots of better than the first day I received it. At this point I will just add half-inch to bicep, elbow and forearm.

Do you really think half an inch will make that big a difference? Feels a little like chasing unicorns.

 

[MrProper]

Do you really think half an inch will make that big a difference? Feels a little like chasing unicorns.

I wouldn't take the risk for half an inch. The jacket looks good as it is and if you change it there is always a risk that it will get worse and not better. And once it is breaked in, it will be fine. Who has their arms up all the time?

 

[bn1966]

A leather copy by five star will be cheaper

Shawn’s currently making me a type 3 Trucker in deerskin for less than that Wrangler...

 

[Kubatu]

I had a short email exchange with Shawn, he's up for recreating the 24MJZ. It will probably be a bit before I make all the decisions on my end, since I want to be sure that it's really something I'd wear enough.

I hate to ask a redundant question, but since there are now 91 pages on this thread and I wouldn't know where to start reading: any recommendations for the hide? I've seen some good things said about the goatskin, but I'm curious how it fades. I like goatskin for the G-1's I've owned, but it never really seems to fade that well - always looks pretty new, and very uniform. Although that's probably intentional with military issue jackets.