Five Star Leather Jackets

[Bahabp100]

View attachment 282491 [/QUOTE]
Here are some pictures of the tapered sleeve measurements from FiveStar as suggested by TFL experts
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[MrProper]

Mrproper,

your coastel is 15mm and your 5* is 10mm?

The 5 * is 10mm and I don't know the Aero. I would rather assume 10 mm than 15 mm, but since they are more curly, that might be deceptive. In comparison, I would think the Aero is a tad warmer.

 

[Claybertrand]

The sample pack arrived from @Will Zach today... I think that the Seal Goat has the best color, but the Distressed Buffalo has my favorite texture. I might need to do some experimenting before sending these to @Claybertrand....i have also found the epitome of a 40s half-belt to work out the numbers with!
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You and I share the same taste. From the graining and character standpoint, I have always liked that Buffalo the best of the hides 5* offers but didn't like the distressed look. From the thickness, hide durability and color stand point, I like the premium Goat in Seal. I have said that perhaps the Goldilocks Zone would be the Buffalo in non distressed Seal. Shawn has said that they are doing the distressing treatments in house and he has said he can accommodate any request.

I wonder if Buffalo Seal can be done?? Further, I was concerned or at least wondering if the distressing is being done to hide imperfections in the hide. If this were the case, perhaps getting it in Seal may not hide the imperfections as well or at all. OR, it could just be that no one has ever just asked for non distressed Buffalo Seal.

One of the unique things about Goat is its potential graining. I don't see a lot of graining in the various 5* Goat hides but that Buffalo has mucho graining!!!

 

[CRP]

Exactly
I like my jackets to be tight or well-fitting, so the jacket measurements are close to my body measurements, depending on the material thickness and desired space.
Most of the jackets have half body circumference plus 1.5" to 1.75".
So with a chest size of 43.3" in the relaxed state, this results in a jacket p2p of 23.2" to 23.5" and at 34.25" hip I have 19.3" to 20" jacket waistband. For the natural waist I usually take the same measurement as the jacket waistband.

MrProper - you are running about a 4" spread in chest circumference and 6" spread in waist circumference. I am finding in the CR jacket the 6" spread in the chest is almost too tight and 6" spread in waist is too loose. I wonder if it is due to the arm attachments.

Are you making your 5* jackets with the sleeve is attached "STRAIGHT AND INLINE" with the shoulder line? This not only has an impact on the shoulder peaks when raising the arm, but also may make the jacket chest feel more comfortable. Let me know your thoughts. Also, ton312 - are you attaching arms/sleeves straight to the shoulder line or at an angle like most suits/jackets? Both of you seem to have mastered the fit for 5*, so appreciate the feedback. Thanks.

 

[MrProper]

MrProper - you are running about a 4" spread in chest circumference and 6" spread in waist circumference. I am finding in the CR jacket the 6" spread in the chest is almost too tight and 6" spread in waist is too loose. I wonder if it is due to the arm attachments.

Are you making your 5* jackets with the sleeve is attached "STRAIGHT AND INLINE" with the shoulder line? This not only has an impact on the shoulder peaks when raising the arm, but also may make the jacket chest feel more comfortable. Let me know your thoughts. Also, ton312 - are you attaching arms/sleeves straight to the shoulder line or at an angle like most suits/jackets? Both of you seem to have mastered the fit for 5*, so appreciate the feedback. Thanks.

so sorry, I confused waist size with hip. Hip is 35.8" and not 34.25". So the difference between the body and the jacket on the hips is 3.2" to 4", depending on the material. 3.7" on the chest.
But it's not so tight that only a T-shirt will fit. A sweater also fits underneath.

My sleeves are not straight in line, but have an angle. I'm also not sure whether straight in line works well with every type of jacket. If the shoulders fit well, you can do it with an angle. 1/2 "too wide and it looks boxy. It's probably a good idea to keep the angle as small as possible without overdoing it.

I guess this doesn't look that boxy.

here the angle is a little too steep and with the style of the jacket straight in line could be an advantage.

 

[rockandrollrabbit]

I’ve been qouted $275-$300 custom
But I got a made to measure distressed trucker for $175 and that went up like $50-$60 or so to buy now. Still a great value great jacket
View attachment 271091

Is that the distressed cowhide? It looks great. I wonder what an A-2 in that would be like. . .

 

[Bahabp100]

Is that the distressed cowhide? It looks great. I wonder what an A-2 in that would be like. . .

Distressed brown stock goat hide

 

[rockandrollrabbit]

Distressed brown stock goat hide

Brown, not seal? Sorry to nitpick, I'm seriously contemplating getting a Bronco in this hide, I want to be specific. Thanks.

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

MrProper - you are running about a 4" spread in chest circumference and 6" spread in waist circumference. I am finding in the CR jacket the 6" spread in the chest is almost too tight and 6" spread in waist is too loose. I wonder if it is due to the arm attachments.

Some of us are doing like 1 or 2 on chest. I guess it all depends. If you're using for motor cycle riding, you probably need more comfort. But for fashion, if you want snug, anything more that 4 is going to be baggy. Just visualize what that means. Basically 2 inch gap on each side of your chest or like 3 fingers width.

What might be causing the compression is the tight sleeve opening or narrow shoulder. That's where a shoulder gusset can help so you stay slim but give a little more range of motion.

 

[Marc mndt]

Some of us are doing like 1 or 2 on chest. I guess it all depends.

I have a 43' chest circumference and most of my jackets have a 22' ptp. So that's 1 on the chest. Enough room for a t-shirt / shirt but too tight for a knit sweater.

 

[Bahabp100]

theses are the distress experiments that Shawn performed on a variety of leathers for me to choose but I don’t know the exact leathers but you can ask him and show the pictures

Brown, not seal? Sorry to nitpick, I'm seriously contemplating getting a Bronco in this hide, I want to be specific. Thanks.

the trucker on left the new one on right and they are different colors and you’re not nitpicking at all but you should confirm the following info with Shawn to confirm about “Mr Stephen’s” orders

The trucker was stock brown distressed stock goat with stock threads and lining

The other jacket (newer one) was distressed dark conic or “cognac” 1.2 premium goat with brown threads and brown #2 lining. It is noticeably nicer leather. This one was subject to several distressing after a handful of experiments as documented above

 

[Bahabp100]

these are the original picture which may be seal subject to 5* confirmation I was never sure since there were so many colors and finishes.

View attachment 282732 View attachment 282733 View attachment 282734 View attachment 282735
theses are the distress experiments that Shawn performed on a variety of leathers for me to choose but I don’t know the exact leathers but you can ask him and show the pictures
the trucker on left the new one on right and they are different colors and you’re not nitpicking at all but you should confirm the following info with Shawn to confirm about “Mr Stephen’s” orders

The trucker was stock brown distressed stock goat with stock threads and lining
The other jacket (newer one) was distressed dark conic or “cognac” 1.2 premium goat brown threads and brown #2 lining. It is noticeably nicer leather. This one was subject to several distressing after a handful of experiments as documented above
View attachment 282736

I did think the first sample he showed me was seal but I never confirmed but some people here thought it was seal so again you have to confirm the picture colors with Shawn. This is what I thought was seal in the original 3 pictures Ultimately the jacket looked like this but it looks better in the flash pictures. I never knew if they were the same jackets honestly

 

[torfjord]

so sorry, I confused waist size with hip. Hip is 35.8" and not 34.25". So the difference between the body and the jacket on the hips is 3.2" to 4", depending on the material. 3.7" on the chest.
But it's not so tight that only a T-shirt will fit. A sweater also fits underneath.

My sleeves are not straight in line, but have an angle. I'm also not sure whether straight in line works well with every type of jacket. If the shoulders fit well, you can do it with an angle. 1/2 "too wide and it looks boxy. It's probably a good idea to keep the angle as small as possible without overdoing it.

I guess this doesn't look that boxy.
View attachment 282705

here the angle is a little too steep and with the style of the jacket straight in line could be an advantage.
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I don’t get what straight in line or at an angle refers to? I’m thinking about ordering from 5star, is this something that can be customised?

I have a 43' chest circumference and most of my jackets have a 22' ptp. So that's 1 on the chest. Enough room for a t-shirt / shirt but too tight for a knit sweater.

I’m not arguing against the fit of your jackets as they all look amazing on you, but damn that’s a tight fit. I have a 40 inch chest and my tightest fitting jacket is 21.5, which feels almost skintight to me. Most are around 22.5 which I find to be comfortable without looking bulky. Don’t you feel restricted in a 22” p2p jacket?

 

[Marc mndt]

I’m not arguing against the fit of your jackets as they all look amazing on you, but damn that’s a tight fit. I have a 40 inch chest and my tightest fitting jacket is 21.5, which feels almost skintight to me. Most are around 22.5 which I find to be comfortable without looking bulky. Don’t you feel restricted in a 22” p2p jacket?

It depends on the hight of the armholes. The Thedi and the FL both have pretty high armholes and yes, they do feel restrictive when worn with a sweater. Honestly, I can only wear those with a shirt.
The Thedi I bought last week had a 23' ptp which was too wide imo. I think I'm going to try 22.5' for my next FL build because it would be nice to have a jacket I can comfortably wear with a knit sweater.

 

[MrProper]

I don’t get what straight in line or at an angle refers to? I’m thinking about ordering from 5star, is this something that can be customised?

This is described in this thread.
https://www.vintageleatherjackets.org/threads/fivestar-leather-a2-jacket.21625/page-44#post-289143

If the sleeve is a straight extension of the shoulder, it becomes less boxy. Perhaps this can best be compared to a raglan cut. In contrast, a classic Sacco, where the shoulder / sleeve angle is quite large.

 

[ton312]

This is described in this thread.
https://www.vintageleatherjackets.org/threads/fivestar-leather-a2-jacket.21625/page-44#post-289143

If the sleeve is a straight extension of the shoulder, it becomes less boxy. Perhaps this can best be compared to a raglan cut. In contrast, a classic Sacco, where the shoulder / sleeve angle is quite large.

Every time I go and read anything on that forum...I’m reminded of what a shit hole it is. Looks like Shawn took a fair bit of abuse there which seems absurd to me. The simple fact remains that I know of no other maker on the planet that will allow the amount of production and design input that 5 Star offers. Yeah the materials are limited but I feel that is reflected fairly in the price point. I can almost guarantee if I joined that forum I would scorch the earth and be banned within a day.

 

[Jin431]

Every time I go and read anything on that forum...I’m reminded of what a shit hole it is. Looks like Shawn took a fair bit of abuse there which seems absurd to me. The simple fact remains that I know of no other maker on the planet that will allow the amount of production and design input that 5 Star offers. Yeah the materials are limited but I feel that is reflected fairly in the price point. I can almost guarantee if I joined that forum I would scorch the earth and be banned within a day.

Screenshots of that would be welcome.

 

[ton312]

Screenshots of that would be welcome.

I’ll let any interested party read through it. There is a tremendous amount of condescension, accusation, etc...tbh it’s not worth the time. Kind of like that entire forum in general.

 

[Jin431]

^^ nah I wouldn't bother because we know here how reliable the company has been for TFL members.

I meant when you make an acct at VLJ and deliver a good old fashioned trash talking

 

[MrProper]

Every time I go and read anything on that forum...I’m reminded of what a shit hole it is. Looks like Shawn took a fair bit of abuse there which seems absurd to me. The simple fact remains that I know of no other maker on the planet that will allow the amount of production and design input that 5 Star offers. Yeah the materials are limited but I feel that is reflected fairly in the price point. I can almost guarantee if I joined that forum I would scorch the earth and be banned within a day.

LOL
I’m not an expert but yes, some of them are "special". But others seem to appreciate Shawn and gave him a lot of tips (even if it sometimes reminds me of counting beans).
And others just chat instead of buying and trying. So yes it is special