Five Star Leather Jackets

[red devil]

Compared to all the other makers, its almost instant gratification. The reported wait time has been nearly comparable to buying a jacket on eBay from a foreign seller and waiting for customs & shipping. But this is a NEW and Custom Jacket coming your way!!!!! Unbelievable!!!! Of course, being a custom design, you may have some back and forth with Shawn before you get everything locked in. The anticipation is part of the journey!!

All the specs have been set, they are now working on the pattern, Not sure if he will need more info at this stage

 

[handymike]

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"B3 ish" and "A-445ish"

Here you go @RILO a Goatskin Californian:

 

[MrProper]

I have an approx. 18 year old fabric jacket from Boss that once looked like a leather jacket. It had a coating on the fabric. Unfortunately, cleaning had destroyed it. The jacket resembles a Cafe Racer. I figured I could actually send it to Shawn and have it built for me. I could imagine Tony's red russet as leather, or suede.
And since suede is rather thin, I got the idea to order a lining from suede. Similar to an unlined jacket.
Is that sensible or a stupid idea?

 

[Seb Lucas]

I have an approx. 18 year old fabric jacket from Boss that once looked like a leather jacket. It had a coating on the fabric. Unfortunately, cleaning had destroyed it. The jacket resembles a Cafe Racer. I figured I could actually send it to Shawn and have it built for me. I could imagine Tony's red russet as leather, or suede.
And since suede is rather thin, I got the idea to order a lining from suede. Similar to an unlined jacket.
Is that sensible or a stupid idea?

There are many grades of suede - I would go with a goat suede which is ultra tough. I had toyed with getting an unlined jacket from Shawn. I have had them in the past and I like how they wear.

 

[torfjord]

I have an approx. 18 year old fabric jacket from Boss that once looked like a leather jacket. It had a coating on the fabric. Unfortunately, cleaning had destroyed it. The jacket resembles a Cafe Racer. I figured I could actually send it to Shawn and have it built for me. I could imagine Tony's red russet as leather, or suede.
And since suede is rather thin, I got the idea to order a lining from suede. Similar to an unlined jacket.
Is that sensible or a stupid idea?

Since you asked, I think a suede lined leather jacket is a stupid idea. I mean suede is basically the underside of the hide... why not go for an unlined jacket instead? The suede would only add weight and bulk to the jacket. It would not make it easier to slip on, it would not add any warmth.

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

I had a Schott cafe (P571, check it out for photos) that was unlined, so basically the underside of the leather. Dont know the true definition of suede, but it felt like suede. It's tricky with the sleeve, getting it on and all that, but I liked it. After 10 wears or so, the grain settles and it smooths out. Probably wouldn't suggest for a tropical climate, but I think you're in Austria so won't get too sticky.

 

[ton312]

I sold my unlined suede type III b/c it was such a PIA to put on and off (if I had anything other than a t shirt on). Now if it’s rough out (finished side in) like my y’2 it’s a much easier process to put on and take off.

 

[Claybertrand]

The process with Shawn is addicting. There is adrenaline, fear and satisfaction. It’s a drug. I have sold off all my “high end” jackets to push it further. I would not have envisioned this outcome at the onset.

You're out of control bro!!!

 

[ton312]

You're out of control bro!!!

100%. I actually think the next one will be the best yet

 

[Claybertrand]

Your designs keep getting better and better man. Can't wait to see the next gem!

 

[MrProper]

Thank you for your opinions. I understand that suede as lining is a stupid idea. I almost thought to myself
I'll ask shawn what is the thickest suede he has and then think about it. maybe with quilted lining.

 

[Jin431]

Maybe/hopefully he will offer rough out horse/goat/cow in the future, I'll be very interested with that

 

[CRP]

Fivestar Cafe Racer - I ordered a modified version of the Cafe Racer Fivestar had on their website in black premium goat. The original was based on the buco j100 and was ordered by another member. I had the upper zip pockets eliminated and added lower zip pockets as well as an extra internal pocket for functional preference. The zippers are YKK #10, all hardware is dark gunmetal, and lining is rayon. I used the measurement method ton312 and MrProper outlined and sent them to Shawn for his recommendation on a size to accommodate a light sweater underneath. Since I didn't have another jacket base my measurements on, I went with Shawn's suggestions for a 6 inch spread between body and jacket measurements. Attached pictures are the result.

 

[CRP]

Fivestar Cafe Racer - I ordered a modified version of the Cafe Racer Fivestar had on their website in black premium goat. The original was based on the buco j100 and was ordered by another member. I had the upper zip pockets eliminated and added lower zip pockets as well as an extra internal pocket for functional preference. The zippers are YKK #10, all hardware is dark gunmetal, and lining is rayon. I used the measurement method ton312 and MrProper outlined and sent them to Shawn for his recommendation on a size to accommodate a light sweater underneath. Since I didn't have another jacket base my measurements on, I went with Shawn's suggestions for a 6 inch spread between body and jacket measurements. Attached pictures are the result.

I love the jacket leather, hardware, and stitching and overall am very pleased. For my next jacket, I would definitely stick with the 6 inch spread for the chest measurement and maybe add a 1/2 inch (especially in premium 1.2-1.4 goat). For the waist, I would definitely go down to a 4 inch spread between body and jacket measurement. I would also have the sleeves attached STRAIGHT AND INLINE with the shoulder line (see MrProper link to JimO's comments: https://www.vintageleatherjackets.org/threads/fivestar-leather-a2-jacket.21625/page-44#post-289143).
I talked to Shawn Ali about sending the jacket back and he was willing to do it, but he said it was an easy fix if I could find someone locally. The leather is thick, soft, but tough. The local tailor tried to put a needle through by the seam and couldn't (they promised to use existing holes after taking material out of the back). I have send it out and we'll see how it goes. Attached are pictures of how much extra material is in the waist.

 

[MrProper]

^^
Nice Jacket. I didn't think black goat would work so well.
Of course it's always a question of personal preferences, but I would prefer a tighter fit for a CR. On the hip I would only add 3" and at p2p max 4" and I would tapered the sleeves.

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

most of us haven't gotten our first jacket perfect, so you're in good company.

It's definitely a preference thing, but 6 inches is way too big IMO. I think 3-4 chest, and like 1.5-2.5 body. Bottom hem I go pretty skinny, like 1. But I live in Los Angeles, so I'm not layering under jacket, pretty much can wear with Tshirt or thin long sleeve/hoodie.

The build looks good though. I was working on a very elaborate mock up of a J100 but put it aside. Just decided to do it top of the line with Field Leathers and call it a day. There's a couple frankenstein sort of builds in the military genre I'm thinking about though for fun jackets, so I'd go back to 5 Star for those. But now having access to several more jackets, I think the leather is fine, but it's not wow factor. Not expecting magic for $300 so it's not like I'm disappointed, you just need to understand what you're getting. I think the create your own model is well worth the money for sure. And it's just damn fun. But I wouldn't be surprised to see some disappointed threads coming up. You really need to understand the measurements. Luckily a lot of people have paved the road, so if you put the time into reading this thread and a few others, you'll definitely increase the odds in your favor.

 

[CRP]

most of us haven't gotten our first jacket perfect, so you're in good company.

It's definitely a preference thing, but 6 inches is way too big IMO. I think 3-4 chest, and like 1.5-2.5 body. Bottom hem I go pretty skinny, like 1. But I live in Los Angeles, so I'm not layering under jacket, pretty much can wear with Tshirt or thin long sleeve/hoodie.

The build looks good though. I was working on a very elaborate mock up of a J100 but put it aside. Just decided to do it top of the line with Field Leathers and call it a day. There's a couple frankenstein sort of builds in the military genre I'm thinking about though for fun jackets, so I'd go back to 5 Star for those. But now having access to several more jackets, I think the leather is fine, but it's not wow factor. Not expecting magic for $300 so it's not like I'm disappointed, you just need to understand what you're getting. I think the create your own model is well worth the money for sure. And it's just damn fun. But I wouldn't be surprised to see some disappointed threads coming up. You really need to understand the measurements. Luckily a lot of people have paved the road, so if you put the time into reading this thread and a few others, you'll definitely increase the odds in your favor.

I hear ya bro. Fivestar for me is the perfect place to experiment with my fit without costing me a fortune in headache and time. Pretty happy with this first attempt and can hopefully dial in the next one. I just love getting the exact thing I want to my measurements (and fit is everything). Granted horsehide or some of the other leathers may be more exciting, but nothing seems to be as comfortable or durable as goat. Hopefully, I can get the shoulder peaks smoothed out as well and then all will be perfect in the world. Its scratching my itch for now!

 

[ton312]

I love the jacket leather, hardware, and stitching and overall am very pleased. For my next jacket, I would definitely stick with the 6 inch spread for the chest measurement and maybe add a 1/2 inch (especially in premium 1.2-1.4 goat). For the waist, I would definitely go down to a 4 inch spread between body and jacket measurement. I would also have the sleeves attached STRAIGHT AND INLINE with the shoulder line (see MrProper link to JimO's comments: https://www.vintageleatherjackets.org/threads/fivestar-leather-a2-jacket.21625/page-44#post-289143).
I talked to Shawn Ali about sending the jacket back and he was willing to do it, but he said it was an easy fix if I could find someone locally. The leather is thick, soft, but tough. The local tailor tried to put a needle through by the seam and couldn't (they promised to use existing holes after taking material out of the back). I have send it out and we'll see how it goes. Attached are pictures of how much extra material is in the waist. View attachment 282309 View attachment 282310

I think that looks pretty damn good!! Little extra room in the body but overall solid!!

 

[Bahabp100]

My FiveStar has suede lining on the cuffs and collars only. For contrast . Using the “golden” color. I guess just cause I could I did.

Since you asked, I think a suede lined leather jacket is a stupid idea. I mean suede is basically the underside of the hide... why not go for an unlined jacket instead? The suede would only add weight and bulk to the jacket. It would not make it easier to slip on, it would not add any warmth.

 

[Hobbes1]

, I went with Shawn's suggestions for a 6 inch spread between body and jacket measurements. Attached pictures are the result.

I also want a cafe racer from Five-star. I'm struggling with measurements though. My previous jacket from them fits tighter unless I have only light T-shirt or wool shirt underneath. I would like to be able to layer a t-shirt and sweater under the CR without it being too baggy overall.
Are you saying you got your body measurements plus 6 inches in the chest and waist? I feel like your jacket looks good but would be too roomy of a fit for my liking. Could you please clarify how Shawn applied the 6 inch addition? Thanks!