Five Star Leather Jackets

[Jin431]

It's nice to know everyone is getting in their orders. We will have more photos to look at soon

 

[Seb Lucas]

I second that notion. I also think it’s cool to be able to throw an oddball pattern at a maker who is willing to give it a go and see what will stick. From what I’ve seen they look far better than the taobao /Cidu jackets. I’ll certainly post my thoughts upon arrival.

Shawn studies FL pictures and accepts a lot of feedback around pattern tweaking, so I am not surprised his jackets have improved and are better than other Asian repop makers who don't seem to have cultivated the same dialogue with enthusiasts.

My experience with the two I owned are they were made to Aero standards of construction, so there is no reason for them not to become a 'go to' jacket.

What I am unsure about at this point is the lining, hardware and poly/cotton thread quality. If these are good and robust, there is no reason for these jackets not to be around for decades. The materials remain mysterious and the only good test is to see how the jackets hold up to regular wear after 5-10 years.

 

[ton312]

Shawn studies FL pictures and accepts a lot of feedback around pattern tweaking, so I am not surprised his jackets have improved and are better than other Asian repop makers who don't seem to have cultivated the same dialogue with enthusiasts.

My experience with the two I owned are they were made to Aero standards of construction, so there is no reason for them not to become a 'go to' jacket.

What I am unsure about at this point is the lining, hardware and poly/cotton thread quality. If these are good and robust, there is no reason for these jackets not to be around for decades. The materials remain mysterious and the only good test is to see how the jackets hold up to regular wear after 5-10 years.

Step 1 for me would be keeping any jacket that long. LOL. For me the adventure with 5 star is just something new. There’s only so many times I can go back to the same old well and be entertained or enjoy it.

 

[jonesy86]

Shawn studies FL pictures and accepts a lot of feedback around pattern tweaking, so I am not surprised his jackets have improved and are better than other Asian repop makers who don't seem to have cultivated the same dialogue with enthusiasts.

My experience with the two I owned are they were made to Aero standards of construction, so there is no reason for them not to become a 'go to' jacket.

What I am unsure about at this point is the lining, hardware and poly/cotton thread quality. If these are good and robust, there is no reason for these jackets not to be around for decades. The materials remain mysterious and the only good test is to see how the jackets hold up to regular wear after 5-10 years.

LOL, I'm not sure how many decades I will be around.

 

[Seb Lucas]

LOL, I'm not sure how many decades I will be around.

We could all be dead tomorrow. But you see my point. If the style and construction is sound, the only unresolved issue is the robustness and only time will tell.

 

[jonesy86]

We could all be dead tomorrow. But you see my point. If the style and construction is sound, the only unresolved issue is the robustness and only time will tell.

I like the jacket I had made. It is pretty fun to be able to have a jacket pattern designed and made custom. Unlike many here I am experimenting with light weight leather. I am considering a 0.8 mm goatskin Thedi that Theodoros said he could have a tannery make for me, but that will cost more than $1,500. Shawn is doing pretty good work, especially at this price point.

 

[jonesy86]

I do believe that is my exact jacket
Speaking of which, mine is in Germany now, en route to US.

What did you base the pattern on, I like it.

 

[Seb Lucas]

I like the jacket I had made. It is pretty fun to be able to have a jacket pattern designed and made custom. Unlike many here I am experimenting with light weight leather. I am considering a 0.8 mm goatskin Thedi that Theodoros said he could have a tannery make for me, but that will cost more than $1,500. Shawn is doing pretty good work, especially at this price point.

I totally agree - I got into Shawn's work a year ago - I have a real problem with the idea of a $1,500 jacket. The problem for me is when people say ''good at this price point". Which sounds awfully like, "It's decent for a third rate item." What would you compare the quality to?

 

[Hobbes1]

What did you base the pattern on, I like it.

I took the designs of these two jackets as my inspiration. I had a shot of the black jacket's back but can't find it at the moment. IIRC, it is a Sheene. I probably would have gotten a wool or tweed type lining if it was available but that didn't seem to be an option. Also, due to conversation here, I decided to forgo contrasting stitching...I just wasn't sure how great the stitching would be and it was mentioned that if it is not "perfect" (or close) that the contrast would really make that stand out. So I was very conservative and got Seal brown stitching as well. The last change was the satin sleeves instead of twill, on the idea that it would be easier on/off.

 

[Jin431]

I took the designs of these two jackets as my inspiration. I had a shot of the black jacket's back but can't find it at the moment. IIRC, it is a Sheene. I probably would have gotten a wool or tweed type lining if it was available but that didn't seem to be an option. Also, due to conversation here, I decided to forgo contrasting stitching...I just wasn't sure how great the stitching would be and it was mentioned that if it is not "perfect" (or close) that the contrast would really make that stand out. So I was very conservative and got Seal brown stitching as well. The last change was the satin sleeves instead of twill, on the idea that it would be easier on/off.

Good luck with your project. Is it the goatskin or cowhide?

 

[navetsea]

Shawn studies FL pictures and accepts a lot of feedback around pattern tweaking, so I am not surprised his jackets have improved and are better than other Asian repop makers who don't seem to have cultivated the same dialogue with enthusiasts.

My experience with the two I owned are they were made to Aero standards of construction, so there is no reason for them not to become a 'go to' jacket.

What I am unsure about at this point is the lining, hardware and poly/cotton thread quality. If these are good and robust, there is no reason for these jackets not to be around for decades. The materials remain mysterious and the only good test is to see how the jackets hold up to regular wear after 5-10 years.

what not to like of poly cotton thread? polyester core wrapped with cotton, many jeans/ jackets are sewn with that, it is stronger than full cotton that might break from tension, or rotting, I think the reason to go full cotton is for authenticity and in jeans the unravelling part is probably desired in less important detail like arcuate, and front pocket edge which some japanese brands that use full cotton thread would start unravelling the moment you start wearing the jeans.

in my country also 3rd world country, the obvious different is the leather itself, for example a vegetable tan belt, I buy a belt 4mm single layer thick dense, smoothly finished burnished edge made from local cow hide , full solid brass buckle under $20, then another locally made belt also solid brass buckle but the leather is from mexico, then it was $60 same around 4mm thick, but this leather from mexico overtime turned red, while the local leather turned more brown with the same wearing and leather maintenance.. sometime material cant lie, it will not be a less quality or will break sooner just not as beautiful when aging, just my own opinion though.

 

[jonesy86]

Looks like a pretty good outcome. I look forward to a full review and fit pics.

 

[Seb Lucas]

what not to like of poly cotton thread? polyester core wrapped with cotton, many jeans/ jackets are sewn with that, it is stronger than full cotton that might break from tension, or rotting, I think the reason to go full cotton is for authenticity and in jeans the unravelling part is probably desired in less important detail like arcuate, and front pocket edge which some japanese brands that use full cotton thread would start unravelling the moment you start wearing the jeans.

in my country also 3rd world country, the obvious different is the leather itself, for example a vegetable tan belt, I buy a belt 4mm single layer thick dense, smoothly finished burnished edge made from local cow hide , full solid brass buckle under $20, then another locally made belt also solid brass buckle but the leather is from mexico, then it was $60 same around 4mm thick, but this leather from mexico overtime turned red, while the local leather turned more brown with the same wearing and leather maintenance.. sometime material cant lie, it will not be a less quality or will break sooner just not as beautiful when aging, just my own opinion though.

That wasn't my intended point. It's not about poly cotton use (which I prefer) - it's about which quality poly cotton. Just wondering how cheap the materials are he is using and whether they are up to long term wear.

And linings... ditto. It's also not a developing country versus a developed country issue. I have had linings in cotton drill made here that wore through all over after little more than a year. When new it looked very strong and robust, but the proof was in the wearing.

Also some of the best quality hides come from India and Pakistan.

 

[navetsea]

most robust lining is probably quickdry ripstop nylon fabric, it comes with many cool camouflage motif if you feeling Himel or Thedi that will never fades, has UV protection, it glides on and off, felt cool and breathy not clingy like satin once touching damp skin, ultra durable, not changing shape or sagging, quick drying when it comes to washing the jacket, available everywhere and not expensive

I somehow think polyester becomes smelly once you sweat on it, nylon is not so much.

 

[jonesy86]

I totally agree - I got into Shawn's work a year ago - I have a real problem with the idea of a $1,500 jacket. The problem for me is when people say ''good at this price point". Which sounds awfully like, "It's decent for a third rate item." What would you compare the quality to?

The concept of perceived value is subjective, complicated and is often discussed in conjunction with psychology and economics, I always like the discussion of price elasticity of demand.
If I were going to rate my jackets, first rate, second rate, third rate I suppose that the GW Arcadia Shinki I recently picked up is definitely first rate, my grail jacket. It is an endless discussion considering all the high end jackets we buy. I think Five Star is better than some of the Chinese stuff I have picked up cheap on AliExpress. Good as Aero, Thedi, ELMC, Himel, RMC, Freewheelers, etcetera? Nope. Is a $1K, $2K, or $3K jacket that much better? Nope. I think Five Star Jackets are a good value.

 

[MrProper]

I started with 5 * to sweeten the waiting time for an aero. I hate waiting.
And because I've seen a jacket that doesn't exist and certainly not with my measurements (Amelia Earhardt). And because I can play around with my measurements at a reasonable cost.
My expectation was that good everyday jackets would come out that are better than the typical fashion jackets from various designers. And my expectations were not disappointed.

 

[Seb Lucas]

The concept of perceived value is subjective, complicated and is often discussed in conjunction with psychology and economics, I always like the discussion of price elasticity of demand.
If I were going to rate my jackets, first rate, second rate, third rate I suppose that the GW Arcadia Shinki I recently picked up is definitely first rate, my grail jacket. It is an endless discussion considering all the high end jackets we buy. I think Five Star is better than some of the Chinese stuff I have picked up cheap on AliExpress. Good as Aero, Thedi, ELMC, Himel, RMC, Freewheelers, etcetera? Nope. Is a $1K, $2K, or $3K jacket that much better? Nope. I think Five Star Jackets are a good value.

I hear you, but I also think there are a lot of games people play with the idea of value. If I were going to compare the Five Star jackets I would put them up against the working jackets of the 1940's and 1950's, not a boutique high-craft jacket like a Goodwear. It was probably dumb of me to talk about a rating, but I was just trying to arrive at some criterion of value since I keep hearing 'great for the price' which sounds more like a kind of warning than an endorsement

 

[ton312]

This thread needs more pictures of the jackets. When mine arrives in a few weeks I’ll do a full pictorial review right here. It was the actual members pics ( Mr. Proper, CBI and Jonesy) that sold me on giving 5 Star a chance and as the saying goes, they are worth a thousand words.

 

[Hobbes1]

Good luck with your project. Is it the goatskin or cowhide?

Thanks! I requested steerhide and asked for a heavier weight.

 

[Bahabp100]

It looks like 5 star price$ are rising (but still very reasonable), at least on EBay. Check out the 5 star website, Amazon, and EBay to comparison shop the price differences, added tax, and shipping charges to get your best deal. EBay charges sales tax but the shipping is free. They must be getting busier and trying to expand their margins due to all of their orders from TFL and VLJ and from “regular” people