Five Star Leather Jackets

[TartuWolf]

@abbaralph
If I understand correctly 95%+ of their production goes to mall jacket / fashion style brands with thin and soft leather where such things as correct sleeve attachment/rotation/placement are not nearly as relevant as they are in individual orders from TFL members. And the consumers of those jackets could not tell the difference or identify the reason for any discomfort anyway.

 

[MrProper]

They say they manufacture jackets on a large wholesale scale, they should have figured out how to make sleeves correctly by now.

Not if they are contract manufacturers. Then they get the patterns and every conceivable detail from the client and then they implement that. And there's no question that they can sew well.

 

[randan]

Guys I need your help. I finally managed to send my Baracuta G9 jacket (Harrington jacket) to Shawn to duplicate it in leather. Today it arrived at Five Star Leather.

Initially I was thinking seal brown premium goat leather would be the best choice for this jacket but at the moment I am not sure if this leather is too heavy for such a jacket. The original jacket is some kind of light weight spring/summer jacket. I asked Five Star for an alternative to premium goat that is soft and still somewhat durable and the recommended me to consider cape leather or I could still stick to the premium goat as it wouldn't be very heavy.
Is cape leather any good? What kind of animal does cape leather come from? Thanks for your input.

 

[MrProper]

Guys I need your help. I finally managed to send my Baracuta G9 jacket (Harrington jacket) to Shawn to duplicate it in leather. Today it arrived at Five Star Leather.

Initially I was thinking seal brown premium goat leather would be the best choice for this jacket but at the moment I am not sure if this leather is too heavy for such a jacket. The original jacket is some kind of light weight spring/summer jacket. I asked Five Star for an alternative to premium goat that is soft and still somewhat durable and the recommended me to consider cape leather or I could still stick to the premium goat as it wouldn't be very heavy.
Is cape leather any good? What kind of animal does cape leather come from? Thanks for your input.

If by cape leather you mean capeskin (lamb), I would give it a wide berth. I have a vest made of it and find the leather horrible. Like plastic.
If Shawn still has black deerskin, I could well imagine that (even if it is printed).
When in doubt, stick with goat.

 

[ton312]

They say they manufacture jackets on a large wholesale scale, they should have figured out how to make sleeves correctly by now.

Most folk don’t know a good sleeve from a bad one though. And on military jackets, that construction method is true to the source material. But yeah, by now the learning should’ve occurred.

 

[randan]

@MrProper: Thanks for your input. Five Star suggested cape leather as a light alternative to premium goat if i wanted something that has a feeling like cloth. But premium goat might be the better choice. I read somewhere they also have goat leather without "premium" and that this leather is thinner than premium goat. Anybody has expercience with the standard goat leather?

 

[MrProper]

@MrProper: Thanks for your input. Five Star suggested cape leather as a light alternative to premium goat if i wanted something that has a feeling like cloth. But premium goat might be the better choice. I read somewhere they also have goat leather without "premium" and that this leather is thinner than premium goat. Anybody has expercience with the standard goat leather?

In the VLJ forum they discuss 5* in the context of A-2 jackets. I would assume that they also prefer thinner leather. Maybe the new horse is something for your jacket?

 

[randan]

Thanks for your input. I already have a horse hide jacket (Simmons Bilt) that I really like but it's quite heavy. Therefore I would prefer something lighter.

 

[KBlake]

Seems like this thread, and interest in this maker perhaps, has petered out somewhat. Would love to see some of your best 5* examples. I’m having them make a pattern like this for me:

I hope they are up to the task!

 

[MotionDesign]

The jacket is a custom variation on their 1930's civilian cafe racer with waxed premium goat. Almost great but with some bitter sweet notes. I'll post a proper review in few days.

 

[Hobbes1]

Almost great but with some bitter sweet notes.

Sadly, that has been a common refrain. I do like the look of your jacket, though!

 

[KBlake]

The jacket is a custom variation on their 1930's civilian cafe racer with waxed premium goat. Almost great but with some bitter sweet notes. I'll post a proper review in few days. View attachment 502048

That looks great. What are your misgivings?

 

[Marc mndt]

Seems like this thread, and interest in this maker perhaps, has petered out somewhat. Would love to see some of your best 5* examples. I’m having them make a pattern like this for me:
View attachment 502047
I hope they are up to the task!

They already have the pattern. Here's what it looks like.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...nd-how-many-potential-ones.89562/post-2711342

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/five-star-leather-jackets.101762/post-2719248

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/five-star-leather-jackets.101762/post-2716848

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...uying-lamb-leather-jacket.107594/post-2917966

 

[KBlake]

They already have the pattern. Here's what it looks like.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...nd-how-many-potential-ones.89562/post-2711342

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/five-star-leather-jackets.101762/post-2719248

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/five-star-leather-jackets.101762/post-2716848

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...uying-lamb-leather-jacket.107594/post-2917966

Strange that they said they have to make the pattern ‍

 

[MrProper]

Strange that they said they have to make the pattern ‍

As soon as you give your own measurements, they make a new pattern. At least, if the changes are bigger.

 

[MotionDesign]

That looks great. What are your misgivings?

Last week, I sent an email to 5* listing some of the issues; hope they will reply and possibly provide some clarification regarding their choices. However, my biggest gripe with the jacket is the cotton drill liner, which appears to be made for a jacket two sizes larger. Additionally, there seems to be a variance in the thickness of the leather. Regardless, I plan to follow up with a review soon.

 

[MotionDesign]

Just posted a review of the 5* 1930's Cafe Racer:

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...930s-cafe-racer-in-premium-waxed-goat.110583/

 

[KBlake]

Here

They already have the pattern. Here's what it looks like.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...nd-how-many-potential-ones.89562/post-2711342

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/five-star-leather-jackets.101762/post-2719248

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/five-star-leather-jackets.101762/post-2716848

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...uying-lamb-leather-jacket.107594/post-2917966

Here is the QC photo of the jacket they made for me It looks like the D pocket is way too big. Am I wrong?

 

[Marc mndt]

Here

Here is the QC photo of the jacket they made for me It looks like the D pocket is way too big. Am I wrong?

Handwarmer pockets are too big. The D-pocket zipper is positioned too high, like they've mistaken it for a chest pocket.

 

[KBlake]

Handwarmer pockets are too big. The D-pocket zipper is positioned too high, like they've mistaken it for a chest pocket.

View attachment 503604

Yeah I gave them these images as a reference. Will they remake it for me?