Five Star Leather Jackets

[Kevin the Devon]

I have been reading the start of this thread. It seems people's Five Star experiences vary.
I received my Amelia Earhart/ Mr Popper jacket last week. (July 2022)

Premium 1.2mm goat in seal brown.
Its very dark almost black in colour.
The leather is soft and a little squeaky after a week, wearing a lot around the house. I am very happy with it and at $190 plus post I thought a very good price.
The jacket has 2 horn buttons nice but I wouldn't upgrade to them.
The collar and cuffs are fine but time again would upgrade to wool.
I like the cotton lining. Time again I might change colour of liner and use contrasting stitching, cuffs/waistband

One thing I have learnt is sleeves with cuffs need to be 0.5 inch longer than jackets without cuffs. When worn you lose 0.5 inch.

My Waldo Pepper is tagged 44 and EH/Mr P 46. The pockets on the WP are slightly smaller. Time again I might spec that size however the pockets I have look good and in proportion.

I highly recommend buying a Five Star stick to stock sizing with minor tweaks imho unless you know what you are ordering.

 

[Hh121]

Anything above $260 with fivestar is not worth it.

 

[MrProper]

Anything above $260 with fivestar is not worth it.

I paid more for most of my FiveStar jackets and am happy for the most part. Especially the last leather jackets and all my shearling jackets.

 

[Hh121]

I paid more for most of my FiveStar jackets and am happy for the most part. Especially the last leather jackets and all my shearling jackets.

Good for you, keep it up.

 

[handymike]

I paid more for most of my FiveStar jackets and am happy for the most part. Especially the last leather jackets and all my shearling jackets.

You are the one guy who always seems to get a perfect jacket out of them. @ton312 is a close 2nd though.

 

[ton312]

You are the one guy who always seems to get a perfect jacket out of them. @ton312 is a close 2nd though.

I think 5 Star definitely makes a good jacket but (and they will admit as much) they are not on the same level as some of the more established brands. There are issues that seem to plague 5 Star patterns and they have, as of yet, not been able to figure them out. Leathers have been getting better and better. Patterns are stuck and seemingly random.
Construction is typically very good.

They are also under tremendous scrutiny….even though they are by all means a “budget brand” this fact does not disqualify them from going under a microscope. This is where they show weakness. The sleeves are almost always wrong. Not universally because I’ve seen (and had) some that are better than others. They are masters of copy and that’s why they’ve done so well with the military crowd, who have supplied originals for that purpose.

The civilian jackets have not enjoyed the same hands on study and I think it shows.
I also believe the quality control could be improved. Not with regard to materials, absolutely with regard to pattern and instinct of design. There is little or no instinctual understanding of design and that’s where problems arise.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Aero has Blue Label and Trainee Label. SB has an outlet page. Schott / Vanson runs sales events. Maybe Shawn could benefit from adding these types of labels into his business model.

 

[Asinyne]

Hey all. Been lurking in this thread for awhile. I was looking at getting a full custom jacket but the quoted price was $350 (before shipping) for my specifications. Seems reasonable if it ends up being what I want, but I noticed a few of you said custom jackets are a little more hit or miss than a stock one with alterations. Waiting to hear back on the price of one with a few changes, just to see if I like that price better. And, if I pull the trigger, to see their quality firsthand.

A couple questions I’ve been wanting to get some feedback on. I’m looking for a cafe racer style, and I want it slim fit but not like a second skin; trim but still easy to move in. How much give should I have over and above my measurements? Below is what I sent 5* (along with some pictures of the jacket I’m wanting recreated). Does anything stick out as too small/tight or big/loose? I was having a heck of a time getting measurements on myself — my wife said I was 19” across the shoulders but I was getting 18” — so I’m just wondering where the rubber meets the road (or maybe where the leather meet the skin?) as far as getting what I want. Now I’m fairly confident in my measurements below.

Apologies in advance — I know that’s a lot to take in for a first post. Any help is appreciated.

MY DIMENSIONS
Neck = 15" | 38cm
Shoulders = 19" | 48cm
Chest = 40"-41" | 102-104cm
Waist = 36" | 92cm
Hips = 40"-41" | 102-104cm
Arm Length = 24" | 61cm
Wrist = 7" | 17cm
Elbow = 11" | 28cm
Bicep = 13" | 33cm

Height = 5'10" / 70" | 178cm
Weight = 180-185 lbs

PROPOSED JACKET DIMENSIONS (preliminary - NOT FINAL - open to suggestions)
Back length = 25.5" (Wondering if the "belt" at the bottom would be included in this?)
Neck = 18"
Shoulders = 19"-20"
Chest = 43"
Waist = 38"
Hips = 42"
Arm Length = 24.5"
Armscye / Arm Opening = 20" (?)
Wrist = 9" >>> 12"
Elbow = 13"
Bicep = 15"

DETAILS
Black steerhide (1.2 - 1.4mm? How thick is it?) with seal brown satin or cotton lining. I'd like something relatively thick and durable.
Add heavy duty gunmetal or brass (#5) YKK zippers on the cuffs, 5-6" long, with cloth gusset that allow the cuff to expand (9" closed / 12" open)
Heavy duty gunmetal or brass (#5) YKK zipper for chest pocket
Heavy duty gunmetal or brass (#10) YKK zipper for body
Left & right (double) inside breast pockets ~3.5"W x 7"D (big enough to hold an iPhone 13 Pro Max w/ case)

 

[KBlake]

Hey all. Been lurking in this thread for awhile. I was looking at getting a full custom jacket but the quoted price was $350 (before shipping) for my specifications. Seems reasonable if it ends up being what I want, but I noticed a few of you said custom jackets are a little more hit or miss than a stock one with alterations. Waiting to hear back on the price of one with a few changes, just to see if I like that price better. And, if I pull the trigger, to see their quality firsthand.

A couple questions I’ve been wanting to get some feedback on. I’m looking for a cafe racer style, and I want it slim fit but not like a second skin; trim but still easy to move in. How much give should I have over and above my measurements? Below is what I sent 5* (along with some pictures of the jacket I’m wanting recreated). Does anything stick out as too small/tight or big/loose? I was having a heck of a time getting measurements on myself — my wife said I was 19” across the shoulders but I was getting 18” — so I’m just wondering where the rubber meets the road (or maybe where the leather meet the skin?) as far as getting what I want. Now I’m fairly confident in my measurements below.

Apologies in advance — I know that’s a lot to take in for a first post. Any help is appreciated.

There are way more knowledgeable people here than me but I would think they would say you are going about this the wrong way. The thing to do is measure a jacket that fits you well and go from there.

 

[Hh121]

Hey all. Been lurking in this thread for awhile. I was looking at getting a full custom jacket but the quoted price was $350 (before shipping) for my specifications. Seems reasonable if it ends up being what I want, but I noticed a few of you said custom jackets are a little more hit or miss than a stock one with alterations. Waiting to hear back on the price of one with a few changes, just to see if I like that price better. And, if I pull the trigger, to see their quality firsthand.

A couple questions I’ve been wanting to get some feedback on. I’m looking for a cafe racer style, and I want it slim fit but not like a second skin; trim but still easy to move in. How much give should I have over and above my measurements? Below is what I sent 5* (along with some pictures of the jacket I’m wanting recreated). Does anything stick out as too small/tight or big/loose? I was having a heck of a time getting measurements on myself — my wife said I was 19” across the shoulders but I was getting 18” — so I’m just wondering where the rubber meets the road (or maybe where the leather meet the skin?) as far as getting what I want. Now I’m fairly confident in my measurements below.

Apologies in advance — I know that’s a lot to take in for a first post. Any help is appreciated.

I would go for used Vanson comet, there is one currently list on Offerup. Only $220 in mint condition, that is the jacket you are looking for.

 

[Asinyne]

There are way more knowledgeable people here than me but I would think they would say you are going about this the wrong way. The thing to do is measure a jacket that fits you well and go from there.

The “proposed jacket” details are based off of a jacket I already own, modified slightly to fit what I think would work, but the part that’s tripping me up is I don’t know how different thickness and stiffness of leather factor into the fit of a jacket. That’s why I provided both my measurements and proposed jacket measurements to 5*, hoping that following the jacket specs but also knowing my sizes would raise a red flag to anyone more experienced if I was making the arms too narrow, etc etc.

Also, because what I was asking for was a jacket that had some slightly more uncommon — or at least different from what I own — details (a stand-up collar without hardware, a “belt” around the hem, etc.) I didn’t know how that would factor in. Which is why I tried to send all the information available to hopefully let someone much more knowledgeable than me make an informed judgement. Ha. Ideally, if was meant to be a starting point that we could discuss changes on.

 

[torfjord]

The “proposed jacket” details are based off of a jacket I already own, modified slightly to fit what I think would work, but the part that’s tripping me up is I don’t know how different thickness and stiffness of leather factor into the fit of a jacket. That’s why I provided both my measurements and proposed jacket measurements to 5*, hoping that following the jacket specs but also knowing my sizes would raise a red flag to anyone more experienced if I was making the arms too narrow, etc etc.

Also, because what I was asking for was a jacket that had some slightly more uncommon — or at least different from what I own — details (a stand-up collar without hardware, a “belt” around the hem, etc.) I didn’t know how that would factor in. Which is why I tried to send all the information available to hopefully let someone much more knowledgeable than me make an informed judgement. Ha. Ideally, if was meant to be a starting point that we could discuss changes on.

I agree with hh121 on this one. I would not go 5* on something like a cafe racer that are easy to find used and cheaper and with higher quality patterns than 5*. Look for Brooks gold labels, Kehoes, Lesco, Schott, Vanson.
I would only go 5* if I wanted a specific design that no one else offers. Just my five cents as the owner of one 5* jacket.

 

[bn1966]

Had my trucker cloned by 5* with minor tweaks…turned out great. Did send the original for them to work from though.

 

[MrProper]

If you'd like my CR from 5*, I'm happy to provide the order PDF.
The first jacket from 5* should be seen as a mock-up. It can be very good if all measurements are correct, or it helps as a reference for the measurements of further jackets.

 

[Blackadder]

Hey all. Been lurking in this thread for awhile. I was looking at getting a full custom jacket but the quoted price was $350 (before shipping) for my specifications. Seems reasonable if it ends up being what I want, but I noticed a few of you said custom jackets are a little more hit or miss than a stock one with alterations. Waiting to hear back on the price of one with a few changes, just to see if I like that price better. And, if I pull the trigger, to see their quality firsthand.

A couple questions I’ve been wanting to get some feedback on. I’m looking for a cafe racer style, and I want it slim fit but not like a second skin; trim but still easy to move in. How much give should I have over and above my measurements? Below is what I sent 5* (along with some pictures of the jacket I’m wanting recreated). Does anything stick out as too small/tight or big/loose? I was having a heck of a time getting measurements on myself — my wife said I was 19” across the shoulders but I was getting 18” — so I’m just wondering where the rubber meets the road (or maybe where the leather meet the skin?) as far as getting what I want. Now I’m fairly confident in my measurements below.

Apologies in advance — I know that’s a lot to take in for a first post. Any help is appreciated.

I agree with KBlake. 1.2-1.4mm is pretty thick leather (car seat thickness) but we are still talking about mm. Don't forget your measurements are in inches and cm. Garments pattern are often cut to inches and not even cm. Rounding up to the nearest inch is more than enough. Even with cotton or satin lining they are not gonna make a difference that would require extra allowance unless you want quilted or shearling lining. IMO, stick to your best fitted jacket.
hh121 and Torfjord also have a point. Unless you need some special design on your CR, why not go for a second hand OTR CR from the other brands. You can also use the OTR as a reference for your future custom jacket.

 

[abbaralph]

This is my fourth five star jacket. Crusader off the rack in their steerhide. Has an interesting grain, good weight to it. Love the contrast stitching

 

[ojaw]

This is my fourth five star jacket. Crusader off the rack in their steerhide. Has an interesting grain, good weight to it. Love the contrast stitching

View attachment 441416

Is that a square cut jacket? What’s the chest vs hem measurements?

 

[LibertyValance]

If you'd like my CR from 5*, I'm happy to provide the order PDF.
The first jacket from 5* should be seen as a mock-up. It can be very good if all measurements are correct, or it helps as a reference for the measurements of further jackets.

@MrProper I've been reading this and other threads now for two months and have admired the fit you achieve with your jackets. If you would be able somehow to send me your order PDF that would be a massive help towards me pulling the trigger on a first 5* order . If you would also include your own body measurements as well I could then work out exactly what details I should send to get the best possible outcome . Hope that's not too cheeky !

 

[abbaralph]

Is that a square cut jacket? What’s the chest vs hem measurements?

It’s a size 40, you can check the website for those measurements if you desire

 

[ojaw]

It’s a size 40, you can check the website for those measurements if you desire

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