Five Star Leather Jackets

[Rugby]

Ok. He sees if differently. It’s worked out for him. My LWs fit. They are hyper-functional jackets. True outwear. Which is more important to me than hammering out that last cm.

Who gives a personal fitting? JL I believe. Vanson for tracksuits. Who else? Or do you mean what TB and FL do with their fit jackets or 5* with their building to spec? Trying to get on the same page. I can say that the fit jacket process works. 5*s process is too in the weeds for me, with great results for some, and not so great for others. Like any other process, including LW.

So the question becomes, if LW and 5* have almost the same ratio of successful to unsuccessful products, then which maker would one choose? Neither of them provides a basted fitting as, for example, JL.
Granted LW has been in the business longer and their products are very very good, but makers like 5*, I think, are catching up and are competitive by trying to go by the rules of the, admittedly, small range market.

 

[JMax]

I never said that. I don’t believe that. I much prefer LW. Either you like LW or you don’t. It’s all good.

I get that we all have different criteria, but the latter part of that post is my cue to move on. Imagine me shaking my head as I putter off.

 

[DamonCyclee]

It seems pretty common when you look online to stretch leather jackets, can a chromexel or heavy horsehide jacket be stretched? Probably not but these people that have had success, they have mall jackets made of lamb and I believe goat is similar. Its worth a shot and I’ll post the results for you

In theory, both horse and cow CXL can be stretched alot at least 20 percent(horse could be less). This is coming from shoes and belts experience.

This is due to horween's ancient tannage method that doesn't stretch out the leather while drying. Most tannery will stretch the hide out to get more mileage. Every CXL they sell is basically taking a 20 percent loss. You can look it up on Ashland leather YouTube channel, Nick horweens sometimes make a cameo. It contains alot of insight on horweens different tannages, and inside look into some process of doing their shell cordovan. Which is just fascinating.

 

[Canuck Panda]

very interesting to see 5star customers now are very diverse in the leather jacket world.

price wise I would put LW in the same bracket as Langlitz. Totally different products but same price bracket.

Johnson is a weird one, it has a very wide range.

5star is another weird one, it’s doing a little bit of everything, but mainly focused on Military repros.

Has anyone been working on any new patterns with Shawn (on the civilian side)? A type 1 trucker jacket? I’m still on the fence of sending him a few wranglers/Lees to copy.

 

[Damon141]

In theory, both horse and cow CXL can be stretched alot at least 20 percent(horse could be less). This is coming from shoes and belts experience.
Thank you for the reassurance. I am waiting for a brave member to commission a 5 star jacket from shell cordovan.

 

[Entropindigo]

That would be absolutely incredible… I wonder how much it would cost to acquire that much shell?

 

[Damon141]

I was told by an Etsy wallet maker that Horween cost him $125 per square foot. From what I understand Shinki Shell is a bit cheaper and Italian shell can be had for about half of what Horween Shell costs.

I’ve had only wallets with Shinki shell and Horween and my Horween is thicker and the Shinki slightly softer but I see no reason a jacket couldn’t be made if cost was no concern.

Horween top and Shinki bottom

 

[Damon141]

Other members would know more but I thought I read you need atleast 50sq feet for an average jacket. It’s not impossible by any means if you think about the high end collections some people have.

 

[Entropindigo]

Other members would know more but I thought I read you need atleast 50sq feet for an average jacket. It’s not impossible by any means if you think about the high end collections some people have.

I wonder if there’s properties of shell besides cost that keep it consigned to the use of footwear and wallets… like the smaller panels needing to all be stitched together to make the back might make it look odd, like patchwork. Could be really cool if done right, though… just wouldn’t fit within the conventions of traditional jacketing. I really have no clue, but I like the idea!

 

[red devil]

@Rugby and @Damon141 , no point to derail the thread any further. If you guys want me to elaborate on this aspect we can take it privately or in another thread if you prefer.

And to get back to Five Star, they have evloved very quickly these last few months and I am curious to see where this is going.

I really like the Winchester they reproduced for @troika

 

[Gr8Lakes]

Been in direct contact with Shawn throughout the week to order a jacket. I have to admit I’m pleasantly surprised at how friendly and accommodating Shawn is. This whole process has been very detailed and educational for a first jacket order. But it’s simply been a pleasure. I even told Shawn the process has been fun. Measurements, hardware, hide & liner, and colors selected. Ordered, paid, and now the hardest part… Waiting!

 

[Damon141]

My process was about a week also and I really can’t believe how much they seemed to care and how accommodating they were. I never specified a thread color and took the time to ask if I wanted another stitching color and he even pointed out a measurement that didn’t seem right and had me send him a picture. Truly professional all the way.

 

[MrProper]

As usual, I now ponder all the time that I hope I have given the correct dimensions.

 

[Canuck Panda]

The wait is the worst!

And about the Shell Cordovan jacket. It takes about 12 to 15 largest shells to make one jacket because of its oblong shape. Horween shell cordovan cost about 400 to 500 dollar for the largest sizes. Shinki and Recado are cheaper but Shinki Ogawa is same price as Horween, and both are recommended.

Why doesn't India/Pakistan produce shell cordovan? The extensive finishing is why its expensive, but with their lower labor cost it will make a difference in prices.

 

[Damon141]

I’m sure FiveStar in time will have a leather that pleases everyone. They really have all capabilities of producing excellent leathers. I’m sure a county the size of Pakistan there are no shortage of raw materials so it must just come down to trade secrets.

CanuckPanda your heavy horsehide trucker had stitching that looked perfect. I can only imagine if they had purchased a few vintage jackets like most of the top repro companies have done, a J100, a half belt, a perfecto. What they would be capable of.
If I were a one man operator like John Chapman with a 4 year waiting list I would try to sponsor visas for a couple jacket makers because it’s such a dying art here in the west. The legacy must continue.

 

[Aloysius]

CanuckPanda your heavy horsehide trucker had stitching that looked perfect. I can only imagine if they had purchased a few vintage jackets like most of the top repro companies have done, a J100, a half belt, a perfecto. What they would be capable of.

This is how they got good at military jackets. Shawn would buy originals or offer to borrow someone’s original to study and pattern, in exchange for getting the first repro. I’ve suggested before that those of us with interesting and rarely reproduced vintage civilian jackets (Durable riders, for example, but they are far from the only ones) send them in for study.

 

[Rugby]

Has anyone had the "shipment is on hold" situation for a 5* package?

 

[ton312]

Has anyone had the "shipment is on hold" situation for a 5* package?

I have, almost everytime...just means it's waiting for the next scheduled movement.

 

[Rugby]

I have, almost everytime...just means it's waiting for the next scheduled movement.

Ok. Thank you. I guess it has to go through customs

 

[ton312]

Ok. Thank you. I guess it has to go through customs

Yep, depending where it lands and at what time of day or night, they label it that way until the next scheduled transport.