Five Star Leather Jackets

[MrProper]

@MrProper what kind of hide is your cossack? And is it possible to get buffalo in black?
And for my education, what are the main differences between buffalo and horsehide? I'm kinda 70/30 towards horsehide, but I have never had a buffalo hide...anything

Mine is steerhide. At the time Shawn didn't have his own (or it wasn't available) and he had bought those in. Unfortunately, the leather is not uniform in thickness and certainly not the quality we get today.

If I remember correctly, mine was the first cossack from 5* and if I were to have one made again today, it would be from 2mm HH or the new steerhide. Or the classic goat.

 

[Canuck Panda]

I also have my own opinions about Shawn's current cossack pattern.

From the numbers on the website, it looks like a lower armhole one. Which in my experience is no good. Especially when it gets nips and tucks for custom measurements.

It would be worth it to get the cossacks made with the higher arm hole pattern block. 5Star low arm hole pattern block felt too big and too small at the same time. Example my most recent winters HB, and most of my early 5Stars.

And shorten the cuff neck height.

This is what others brands are doing for cossacks. I am not getting a 5Star cossack until I see pattern upgrades from the first generations.

I believe Shawn's current cossack was based on the Himel Heron, sizing and all. But Himel pattern is a bit different, so it's impossible to copy correctly given just the photos and measurements. That's why the current 5Star cossack looks off to me. It's best Shawn just switch to his own pattern block which would just hit it outta the park.

Himel shoulders are narrow (only) on paper, and cuff neck also looks long on photo. But I have a Himel (different design) and it fits very different in real life vs what's on paper/photo. This is not one that could be easily copied without an actual jacket.

Shawn's slim fit HB pattern block is basically a hybrid SB/Thedi armhole with Aero new shoulders. There I've said it the cats out of the bag. It's good enough to compete in the big leagues. There is no point copying what the Himel looks on paper and not use what he already has that works better. Just saying.

 

[hughesovka]

I also have my own opinions about Shawn's current cossack pattern.

From the numbers on the website, it looks like a lower armhole one. Which in my experience is no good. Especially when it gets nips and tucks for custom measurements.

View attachment 411169

It would be worth it to get the cossacks made with the higher arm hole pattern block. 5Star low arm hole pattern block felt too big and too small at the same time. Example my most recent winters HB, and most of my early 5Stars.

And shorten the cuff neck height.

This is what others brands are doing for cossacks. I am not getting a 5Star cossack until I see pattern upgrades from the first generations.

View attachment 411191

I believe Shawn's current cossack was based on the Himel Heron, sizing and all. But Himel pattern is a bit different, so it's impossible to copy correctly given just the photos and measurements. That's why the current 5Star cossack looks off to me. It's best Shawn just switch to his own pattern block which would just hit it outta the park.

View attachment 411192
Himel shoulders are narrow (only) on paper, and cuff neck also looks long on photo. But I have a Himel (different design) and it fits very different in real life vs what's on paper/photo. This is not one that could be easily copied without an actual jacket.

Shawn's slim fit HB pattern block is basically a hybrid SB/Thedi armhole with Aero new shoulders. There I've said it the cats out of the bag. It's good enough to compete in the big leagues. There is no point copying what the Himel looks on paper and not use what he already has that works better. Just saying.

Very interesting insight, would you recommend asking Shawn for higher armholes on a cossack? Or would I have to get more in depth than that?

 

[troika]

Can't stop wearing it

 

[Canuck Panda]

Very interesting insight, would you recommend asking Shawn for higher armholes on a cossack? Or would I have to get more in depth than that?

I don’t know. I threw that out there to see any existing Cossack owners shows up.
To know for sure one would have to have either the trucker or the 30sHB and the Cossack to compared to.
All my early goatskin jackets were based off the Cycle Champ jacket pattern which had lower armholes. My most recent winter HB feels like that with a few nips and tucks to slim the sleeves and what not. But then it was not as good as the 30s HB in terms of fit and movement.
There were a few guys with the Cossack. I’m sure they could have slim fit 5stars by now. Just a matter of time we get some more intel up here.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Can't stop wearing it

View attachment 411255

The devil horns sleeve looks ok. Maybe it was just the angle of the photo. Maybe you don’t need slimming on the sleeves. What’s the cuff opening size? 5.5” flat (11” around?)

 

[troika]

The devil horns sleeve looks ok. Maybe it was just the angle of the photo. Maybe you don’t need slimming on the sleeves. What’s the cuff opening size? 5.5” flat (11” around?)

5.75", can def be slimmer and shorter at the sleeve hem, but not sure the rest of the sleeve needs slimming.

I think a lot of the creasing is caused by the large and low armhole rather than the sleeve width

 

[Canuck Panda]

5.75", can def be slimmer and shorter at the sleeve hem, but not sure the rest of the sleeve needs slimming.

I think a lot of the creasing is caused by the large and low armhole rather than the sleeve width

Maybe it just needs a strap cinch on days you don't wear a watch. 5.75" is not big. 6" plus is. The international compact packaging don't help either. The sleeve rolls are cool. Means the leather is relatively thick for those rolls to look like that. Low armholes? Does it feel tight when your arms reach forward? Maybe not the best question because it's goatskin and they're stretchy. Nevermind.
Straps can be added to the American cuffs, lots of vintage designs have this. Maybe Shawn can send you some and Dena/your local tailor can put them on for you, if you want:

Lots of my sleeves have large openings. And I have small forearm and wrist! The difference is that I had them for a while. So in theory your sleeves could turn out just fine in a while. Get some rain on it, might speed up the plumping process.

Ask Shawn to put this jacket on his web store. It is very cool. The more I see it the more I like it.

 

[troika]

Maybe it just needs a strap cinch on days you don't wear a watch. 5.75" is not big. 6" plus is. The international compact packaging don't help either. The sleeve rolls are cool. Means the leather is relatively thick for those rolls to look like that. Low armholes? Does it feel tight when your arms reach forward? Maybe not the best question because it's goatskin and they're stretchy. Nevermind.
Straps can be added to the American cuffs, lots of vintage designs have this. Maybe Shawn can send you some and Dena/your local tailor can put them on for you, if you want:
View attachment 411260
Lots of my sleeves have large openings. And I have small forearm and wrist! The difference is that I had them for a while. So in theory your sleeves could turn out just fine in a while. Get some rain on it, might speed up the plumping process.
View attachment 411263
Ask Shawn to put this jacket on his web store. It is very cool. The more I see it the more I like it.

Yes, it very much does feel tight when I reach forward. Here's a quick side shot, you can see how far down they go. Fwiw, the 5* trucker armholes are much better on me, I think.

And yeah, I'll reach out about adding it online. A few folks have asked me about my James Grose Manilla/Lighting too

 

[MTS]

@Hobbes1 Thank you! I also went to dig it out and saved it on my computer now. Lol. The chest pockets are just fine. This pattern is good to go. I am just making some finishing changes like better zippers and better side buckles.

On a side note I think I've made a discovery with Shawn's pattern block. The high armhole patterns seems to have P2P ending in 0.5", so 22.5", 23.5", 24.5"..etc.. The (low arm holes) patterns has the even number P2P, 23", 24", 25". These are bigger but fits smaller. With the 5Star, the higher armhole slim fit ones is the way to go imo. I didn't believe the slim fit ones could work at first, but they do. Almost exactly how the Sb's and Thedi's slim fit works too. It is possible to get a comfortable fit with actual chest measurement plus 3" or less, given the leather is soft enough and armpit seams are skived. Hopping on the slim fit wagon now. However, Shawn is still missing a solid lower armhole/full action back motorcycle fit

Agree with this, Slim fit with the higher armholes worked for me. My jacket is about 2" more than my chest but it fits really nicely. The leather is thick but soft so the jacket fits pretty tight but am not hindered at all when moving. I also had an action back on mine but it might have been fine without it too.

 

[Formeruser012524]

Does anyone have photos of people wearing Five* steerhide "Russet Brown" and "Distressed Brown" jackets? I find that on his website the example pictures do not reflect the actual colors that well. It would be great to see some pictures of people wearing the steerhide "Russet Brown" in daylight, for example.

 

[Aloysius]

The Five Star 'russet' I got as a gift for someone was not really russet at all, just light brown. Likewise with the russets I've seen many people here post. I think ton and Mr Proper described it as 'milk chocolate'.

The horsehide they're now calling 'pull up' doesn't seem to be a pull up, but is a very nice russet.

 

[ton312]

Does anyone have photos of people wearing Five* steerhide "Russet Brown" and "Distressed Brown" jackets? I find that on his website the example pictures do not reflect the actual colors that well. It would be great to see some pictures of people wearing the steerhide "Russet Brown" in daylight, for example.

Here’s the Russet Brown Steer. I had to nuke it with leather dye to make it wearable. It was an adventure. Very milk chocolate.

After the chemical bath:

 

[Aloysius]

What did you nuke it with? Might ask my kid cousin if I can do this to his that I got him.

 

[ton312]

What did you nuke it with? Might ask my kid cousin if I can do this to his that I got him.

Step one: Acetone and sand paper:

I didn’t care for this^ looked too much like a bruised banana. So I hit it with Fieblings cordovan. I learned a lot with this jacket. Sandpaper was absolutely not necessary. Just strip it with Acetone, embrace the loss of brain cells and move to the dye. Dilute the dye WAY down with rubbing alcohol. One little jar of dye could probably yield a dozen jackets.

 

[Formeruser012524]

That looks awesome @ton312. What I'm basically looking for is a steerhide brown that resembles this goatskin brown:

Men Type A-2 Repro Real Leather Brown Aviator flying Pilot Jacket

"A" Grade Top Quality Real Leather Jacket Made from Premium Goatskin Leather Vintage Repro Talon Zipper Two Front Flap Pockets enclosed with Buttons With Hand Warmer Pockets One inside lining pocket Real soft wool Ribbed Cuff and Bottom This is a handmade waxed Garment to make it more soft...

www.fivestarleather.us

But unfortunately Five* does not seem to have a steerhide brown that is similar to that, so I'm looking for some possible solutions.

 

[MrProper]

Yes, it is milk chocolate. And unlike black and seal, the "russet" is pretty plastic-y. I think there is too much top coat on it. I am also considering the acetone cure.

 

[Aloysius]

That looks awesome @ton312. What I'm basically looking for is a steerhide brown that resembles this goatskin brown:

Men Type A-2 Repro Real Leather Brown Aviator flying Pilot Jacket

"A" Grade Top Quality Real Leather Jacket Made from Premium Goatskin Leather Vintage Repro Talon Zipper Two Front Flap Pockets enclosed with Buttons With Hand Warmer Pockets One inside lining pocket Real soft wool Ribbed Cuff and Bottom This is a handmade waxed Garment to make it more soft...

www.fivestarleather.us

But unfortunately Five* does not seem to have a steerhide brown that is similar to that, so I'm looking for some possible solutions.

Given the price, I imagine this is FS's lowest quality goatskin and does not look very flattering in real life.

But I think you could certainly get that look from the pull-up horsehide (Ton just got this). Possibly the distressed steerhide; can't tell from FS's own photos but there might be some customer photos.

 

[ton312]

Yes, it is milk chocolate. And unlike black and seal, the "russet" is pretty plastic-y. I think there is too much top coat on it. I am also considering the acetone cure.
View attachment 411522

Do it! It's terrible and fun.

 

[ton312]

That looks awesome @ton312. What I'm basically looking for is a steerhide brown that resembles this goatskin brown:

Men Type A-2 Repro Real Leather Brown Aviator flying Pilot Jacket

"A" Grade Top Quality Real Leather Jacket Made from Premium Goatskin Leather Vintage Repro Talon Zipper Two Front Flap Pockets enclosed with Buttons With Hand Warmer Pockets One inside lining pocket Real soft wool Ribbed Cuff and Bottom This is a handmade waxed Garment to make it more soft...

www.fivestarleather.us

But unfortunately Five* does not seem to have a steerhide brown that is similar to that, so I'm looking for some possible solutions.

Yes this indeed looks very similar to the "pull up" HH. I would trust the actual photos posted here on TFL over the website pics. I was expecting the russet steer to be far more red.