Five Star Leather Jackets

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

I submitted my spec sheet this am as well for V2. One thing I distinctly wanted to change was the sleeve hole opening. It’s too large on my jacket:
View attachment 268517
I am no artist by any means but I hope this drawing will help him dial in the specifics of fit for the Halfbelt I want this to be a tight fit:
View attachment 268518
If you guys have suggestions about tweaking the numbers I am all ears!

Dang, we getting fancy now LOL. Your measurements are pretty close to mine, but I went 15.5 inches bicep circumference. I haven't received the jacket yet, but that's the measurement on a few of my jackets and it works for me, in fact might be slightly "poofy". The taper to the wrist opening is 10.5 inches. Both measurements are with sleeve laid flat. With arm inside it's a little bigger. So unless you've got the hulk hogan pythons, you might want to reconsider the bicep measurement. That might help with your sleeve opening as well.

I'm a little nervous though because at last minute I asked him to remove the underarm gussets. BUt I'm thinking if anything that should make the arm opening tighter, unless they over compensated. Anyway, I'll find out in about a week.

edit: I double checked a handful of jackets. Sleeve opening in the 9-10 inches range seems to be the standard. That's measuring up to the shoulder seam. So yeah, that 12 or so is very wide. I think tweaking that will fix a lot. But definitely look at the bicep measurement. There should be some taper from the open to the bicep.

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

Thanks a lot. These are the pictures of Sailrite that I sent Shawn as an example.



Almost looks like my requirements
View attachment 268524 View attachment 268525



This is the shearling that Shawn had made for his B3 and D1 flight jackets. Available in 10 mm and 20 mm.

watching closely. I have samples coming for the leather. I asked him to send me the sheepskin. If it's good, I might try the D1, especially if you give thumbs up to the quality of the leather.

 

[ton312]

Dang, we getting fancy now LOL. You're measurements are pretty close to mine, but I went 15.5 inches bicep circumference. I haven't received the jacket yet, but that's the measurement on a few of my jackets and it works for me, in fact might be slightly "poofy". The taper to the wrist opening is 10.5 inches. Both measurements are with sleeve laid flat. With arm inside it's a little bigger. So unless you've got the hulk hogan pythons, you might want to reconsider the bicep measurement. That might help with your sleeve opening as well.

I'm a little nervous though because at last minute I asked him to remove the underarm gussets. BUt I'm thinking if anything that should make the arm opening tighter, unless they over compensated. Anyway, I'll find out in about a week.

9" is my sweet spot for the sleeve opening. Almost all my jackets in a 44"/42" are in that range. I remember the Vanson Gambler I had was equipped with 8.5" and they were sausage casings. I just hadn't factored in the sleeve opening itself this go round, so while the sleeves themselves aren't too terribly baggy, the armholes are to low due to that circumference.

 

[navetsea]

My new jacket is set.
As always, it's a pleasure to design something new with Shawn.
I hope we can still find a good solution for the buttons. I am thinking of reinforcements underneath.
View attachment 268511 View attachment 268512

reinforcement in what part? on mine on the "female" side of the lock it has plate backing, since I use thick leather I can't cover it, if I would use it on thinner leather I would cover it with thin leather glued on, with the edge tucked in, dont make it too bulky otherwise the pin's spring would get forced too hard to close it and perhaps overtime the spring will get stretched out.

just ask him to cut the hole a little bit bigger than the hole so it will look neater.

BTW that pic is just the sample right?, if the rivet is the mushroom and pin type, then I would install it the other way around, the flatter pin on top, and mushroom cap facing inside.

 

[MrProper]

reinforcement in what part? on mine on the "female" side of the lock it has plate backing, since I use thick leather I can't cover it, if I would use it on thinner leather I would cover it with thin leather glued on, with the edge tucked in, dont make it too bulky otherwise the pin's spring would get forced too hard to close it and perhaps overtime the spring will get stretched out.

just ask him to cut the hole a little bit bigger than the hole so it will look neater.

BTW that pic is just the sample right?, if the rivet is the mushroom and pin type, then I would install it the other way around, the flatter pin on top, and mushroom cap facing inside.

Thanks a lot for the tips. However, I am not sure I understand correctly.
The leather is not particularly strong and then the buttons could easily tear off. So I thought of first sewing some leather (steerhide) onto the shearling (inside or outside) and then assembling the buttons. Then the danger of tear off should be averted.

 

[Seb Lucas]

I've always overlooked sleeve openings - good idea, ton. My understanding of wide openings is they help deliver a 'fit' even if other measurements are a bit off. Wested jackets are notorious for wide openings. Just measured my Brooks cafe racer and it is 10 inches.

 

[ton312]

I've always overlooked sleeve openings - good idea, ton. My understanding of wide openings is they help deliver a 'fit' even if other measurements are a bit off. Wested jackets are notorious for wide openings. Just measured my Brooks cafe racer and it is 10 inches.

Yeah it's definitely a way to "pad" the fit. The bicep area is dead on 9" but with that massive sleeve opening (12") it creates too low an armhole and prevents the sleeves looking trim. I also thing I'll be better suited to the 44" block than a 46"

 

[Jin431]

F/u with premium seal goatskin trucker with upgraded buttons

 

[MrProper]

F/u with premium seal trucker with upgraded buttons

View attachment 268670

View attachment 268671

View attachment 268672

cool. I like the new buttons.

 

[Jin431]

cool. I like the new buttons.

Thanks. They definitely enhance the jacket overall, the leather is too nice for the stock buttons.

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

Thanks. They definitely enhance the jacket overall, the leather is too nice for the stock buttons.

how's the leather feeling? That's the goat premium, right?

 

[Jin431]

^^ still breaking in but draping better, I can shape the collars better now, less squeaky compared to when new for sure, lighter brown fades on some areas, the leather stretched a little on the elbow/chest/waist but I think thats ho leather jackets are supposed to be

Edit: yes 5 * premium seal goat

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

haven't heard from Shawn in several days. Paid for jacket last week, was hoping it would be in the mail already based on what others said about how fast they were. Wonder if we slammed him with all our customized stuff LOL.

More eager to get the leather samples so I can plot out my next one. Seems like this is turning more into a dopamine drill than anything else. Need to cut myself off soon. Going to flip a coin between a buco racer style and one of those Thedi style shawl collar or the double breasted one posted recently. Basically if I like the buffalo or the natural aniline I think is the way I'll go.

 

[Bahabp100]

This one looks familiar https://www.fivestarleather.us/coll...ther-men-real-steerhide-zippered-ranch-jacket

 

[Jin431]

^^ this is not surprising but you should get a commission on this @ton312 lol

 

[ton312]

^^ this is not surprising but you should get a commission on this @ton312 lol

Next one will be way better! And let’s be honest...I ripped that straight off taobao! LOL. Agonizing over the measurements. I feel the first is too big. It’s tagged a 46” and fits close to one.

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

definitely should get commission. He charged me $30 for design fee, so we paying for the R&D

 

[Seb Lucas]

Shawn listens to feedback and is very obliging. Most of the jackets up there were either commissioned or improved by customers - we help Shawn perfect and create designs for the next customer. But he does the patterning and all the hard work. I don't mind. Two of mine are up there.

 

[Bonefish Jim]

hey everyone.

I've seen this brand pop up in a few random threads. Great looking photos, very stylish fits. What am I missing? Are they good for the money or just flat out good?

I might order something to test out, but that D1 Mechanics jacket keeps catching my eye at sub $400. That's quite a discount to any of the higher end bombers from Schott, Aero, etc.

https://www.fivestarleather.us/coll...ilot-aviation-flight-sheepskin-leather-jacket

Also, the sizing seems weird. If you don't mind, post some jackets you picked up, what size and how that compares to other sizing you've done with other brands. TIA.

 

[Bonefish Jim]

I have an A1 from them that for the life of me I think is of goatskin ( they didn't specify in the description.) Sizing is a little hard to figure out, but you can communicate with them. i would be careful there. But the fit and quality, particularly of the hide, blew me away. It's a
great looking jacket.