Five Bucos

[tmitchell59]

I'm absolutely over the moon with this jacket. The leather is incredibly nice. Fit is generous but looks good imo. I'm having a mouton collar made to make the jacket look extra fancy.

View attachment 510160 View attachment 510162 View attachment 510161 View attachment 510159

A Beauty indeed. I've missed this? or is this premiered? I have many questions.

This one deserves a smile. They advertised this jacket as a RMC re-production, incredible and in Big Letters too, on the world-wide net, at a legit shop?? Wow, it took you to see it, Congratulations!

Who made the collar? beautiful!

 

[semolina_pilchard]

A Beauty indeed. I've missed this? or is this premiered? I have many questions.

This one deserves a smile. They advertised this jacket as a RMC re-production, incredible and in Big Letters too, on the world-wide net, at a legit shop?? Wow, it took you to see it, Congratulations!

Who made the collar? beautiful!

I bought and tried this beauty, but it was too big on me. It was at €1000 then. When I returned it I even told them it was an original, not an RMC, and they often sell at higher prices. They didn’t respond and later reduced the price

 

[Marc mndt]

A Beauty indeed. I've missed this? or is this premiered? I have many questions.

This one deserves a smile. They advertised this jacket as a RMC re-production, incredible and in Big Letters too, on the world-wide net, at a legit shop?? Wow, it took you to see it, Congratulations!

Who made the collar? beautiful!

It was @semolina_pilchard who spotted the jacket, listed on a French luxury goods consignment website for €1050. He bought it but it turned out to be too big for him and therefore he returned it. He also informed the seller that it's actually a vintage Buco and not a RMC reproduction. Despite of that the jacket was relisted as a RMC, now for just €850.

Of course I did not hesitate one second after Semolina shared the link to the listing. It's extremely rare for a jacket like this to be listed in Europe. Let alone in this condition and size.

The jacket had a couple of minor flaws. Even though it has a ptp of 23.5, which shouldn't be too big for me, it felt too big. Which was due to the elastic bands that hold the back gussets in place which were worn out.

Also, the stitching on the coin pocket flap had become undone.

I've replaced elastic bands on a jacket before, it's not all that difficult. The job took me a couple of hours though as I have 0 experience. For a professional it's a 15 minute job.

I had to send Greg some hardware for a project that he's working on and lucky for me he was willing to do the small repairs and make a matching collar.

This is an exceptionally nice Buco, beautiful thick vegetable tanned leather, very high construction quality. I'll write a full review once I have the jacket back in hands.

 

[Marc mndt]

Oxidized zippers

Before and after cleaning

 

[semolina_pilchard]

It was @semolina_pilchard who spotted the jacket, listed on a French luxury goods consignment website for €1050. He bought it but it turned out to be too big for him and therefore he returned it. He also informed the seller that it's actually a vintage Buco and not a RMC reproduction. Despite of that the jacket was relisted as a RMC, now for just €850.

Of course I did not hesitate one second after Semolina shared the link to the listing. It's extremely rare for a jacket like this to be listed in Europe. Let alone in this condition and size.

The jacket had a couple of minor flaws. Even though it has a ptp of 23.5, which shouldn't be too big for me, it felt too big. Which was due to the elastic bands that hold the back gussets in place which were worn out.

Also, the stitching on the coin pocket flap had become undone.

I've replaced elastic bands on a jacket before, it's not all that difficult. The job took me a couple of hours though as I have 0 experience. For a professional it's a 15 minute job.

I had to send Greg some hardware for a project that he's working on and lucky for me he was willing to do the small repairs and make a matching collar.

This is an exceptionally nice Buco, beautiful thick vegetable tanned leather, very high construction quality. I'll write a full review once I have the jacket back in hands.

View attachment 510280 View attachment 510279 View attachment 510281 View attachment 510273 View attachment 510274 View attachment 510275 View attachment 510276 View attachment 510282 View attachment 510277 View attachment 510278

Wow @Marc mndt it really is an amazing jacket. You really sorted out those zippers!

And that collar is perfect. I was looking to get one made for the J65 and contacted Bill Kelso, but they wanted me to send in the jacket so I didn't go any further with it.

They did a great job at Field Leathers. Might give them a shout, thanks for sharing the photos.

 

[Marc mndt]

Early 50s horsehide Buco J24 with repro mouton collar. This one has the nicest leather of all my Buco's. Maybe even the nicest leather of any vintage jacket in my collection.

 

[Marc mndt]

Horsehide Buco J71, probably 1953. The horsehide on this one is very dense. North & Judd plastic buckle. Stitched down epaulets. No pockets welts. Mix of Talon and Conmar zippers.

 

[Marc mndt]

Steerhide Buco J82. In terms of construction quality this is the lesser one of my Buco's but the beautiful wear and its cool design make up for that.

 

[Marc mndt]

Late 50s steerhide Buco j24L with original detachable mouton collar. Overall the steerhide on this one is nicer than on the J82 but there are some cost cutting measures. You can tell they used scraps for the trimmings (different, lower quality leather) and one of the sleeve gussets is made out of pleather lol. Instead of belt loops this one has elastic bands in the side panels. Probably another cost cutting measure?

 

[Marc mndt]

Horsehide J24 size 46

Steerhide J24L size 40

Steerhide J24L size 42

Steerhide J82 size 42

Horsehide J71 size 42

 

[Bahabp100]

Horsehide J24 size 46

Steerhide J24L size 40

Steerhide J24L size 42

Steerhide J82 size 42

Horsehide J71 size 42

View attachment 592710 View attachment 592712 View attachment 592709 View attachment 592711 View attachment 592708

Wow!!

 

[Madhouse27]

This thread should almost be required viewing!

 

[Marc mndt]

Some additional pics of the steerhide J24L, courtesy of @mendelboaz

 

[jeo]

Horsehide J24 size 46

Steerhide J24L size 40

Steerhide J24L size 42

Steerhide J82 size 42

Horsehide J71 size 42

View attachment 592710 View attachment 592712 View attachment 592709 View attachment 592711 View attachment 592708

Nice Buco collection! The new one is your best fitting yet.

 

[Aloysius]

Nice Buco collection! The new one is your best fitting yet.

I had to move it on immediately because it made me too sad seeing it hanging by me just too small even with a tee. Had to see the thing done some justice.

Part of the tragedy of it was that the length was actually perfect, which I've not experienced often with vintage cross zips, and the immaculate detachable collar.

 

[jeo]

I had to move it on immediately because it made me too sad seeing it hanging by me just too small even with a tee. Had to see the thing done some justice.

Part of the tragedy of it was that the length was actually perfect, which I've not experienced often with vintage cross zips, and the immaculate detachable collar.

Yeah the Schotts, Becks and Bucos are longer than most at 23” back length (in the smaller 34-40 sizes) with the Beck 999s reaching up to 25” with the beaver tail. My original Buco J-22 is tagged size 40 and has a 23” back where most other M/C jackets would be 22” at a size 40.

Your Beck looked great on you.

What’s crazy is that this size 42 attic find, while definitely way too big, didn’t look completely ridiculous on me, especially in the shoulders. Just a testament to the amazing Buco patterns.

 

[Aloysius]

Yeah the Schotts, Becks and Bucos are longer than most at 23” back length (in the smaller 34-40 sizes) with the Beck 999s reaching up to 25” with the beaver tail. My original Buco J-22 is tagged size 40 and has a 23” back where most other M/C jackets would be 22” at a size 40.

Your Beck looked great on you.

What’s crazy is that this size 42 attic find, while definitely way too big, didn’t look completely ridiculous on me, especially in the shoulders. Just a testament to the amazing Buco patterns.

View attachment 592881 View attachment 592882

It kind of looked cool unzipped, but I could barely zip it (running heavier this year than usual but I think it would have been a little too trim for comfort even at my normal size).

I have one jacket that fits like this (made a thread about it) but as a factory sale find and given the hefty modern Ideal/Conmar #10 I’m not too worried about straining it. I’ve thought about making it sort of a costume piece with Ramones type pins and stuff.

I think it looks great on you, not remotely oversized despite the relatively generous measurements. I think my favorite thing was the hide. Really beautiful and substantial in hand.

 

[Marc mndt]

The new one is your best fitting yet.

I've thought about this and I agree.

The HH J24 has beautiful leather but, even though it looks OK on me, it really is too big for the style.

I can't wear the j71 over a sweater because the sleeves are too narrow for that plus the body wears quite short given it doesn't have much front drop.

The J82 does have wider sleeves but the body is short, similar to the J71.

The J24L I can comfortably wear over a sweater which is crazy given the jacket's measurements (which suggest a tshirt only fit at best). The added body length (3") makes it easier to combine with a modern wardrobe.

These Buco patterns are spot on for me as they have a generous chest and upper sleeve with lots of taper towards to waist.

Part of the tragedy of it was that the length was actually perfect, which I've not experienced often with vintage cross zips, and the immaculate detachable collar.

Yeah the Schotts, Becks and Bucos are longer than most at 23” back length (in the smaller 34-40 sizes) with the Beck 999s reaching up to 25” with the beaver tail.

The J24L has 3" more back length than my J82 and J71.

The collar (Size large) perfectly fits the J82 as well.

What’s crazy is that this size 42 attic find, while definitely way too big, didn’t look completely ridiculous on me, especially in the shoulders. Just a testament to the amazing Buco patterns.

+1

Crazy right? I can't think of any other jacket that I can comfortably wear in size 42, 44 or 46.

 

[jeo]

I've thought about this and I agree.

The HH J24 has beautiful leather but, even though it looks OK on me, it really is too big for the style.

This 46 will be there for you fitting perfectly when you’re older and get a bit of a beer belly lol!

The J24L has 3" more back length than my J82 and J71.

Yeah the ”L”s are great for someone wanting extra length.

+1

Crazy right? I can't think of any other jacket that I can comfortably wear in size 42, 44 or 46.

Durable.

Yours is probably a 44 or 46 and you can definitely size down. But that cut isn’t the one I’m talking about.

You’ll have your “correct” Durable size just like a Buco 44 for you but I’m sure you’d be able to wear multiple Durable sizes and it’ll still look pretty good and be comfortable.

 

[Marc mndt]

Durable.

Yours is probably a 44 or 46 and you can definitely size down. But that cut isn’t the one I’m talking about.

You’ll have your “correct” Durable size just like a Buco 44 for you but I’m sure you’d be able to wear multiple Durable sizes and it’ll still look pretty good and be comfortable.

I guess I need to find myself some more Durables then lol.