First post - looking for advice for a "do it all" jacket (Aero Premier Highwayman - Belmondo style)

[MrProper]

Good choice. Will look awesome on your frame!

Front dop is negligable. I´d say, half an inch max (1-1,5cm).

I have CXL, and it works just fine. Badalassi seems like a natural choice too, but a bit depending on the look you want to achieve in the long run.
If you´re ok with super-rugged (as in your old Cafe Racer) CXL is great. I haven´t seen Badalassi really, really broken in, but I would assume it will still look pretty uniform, but with lots of molding to your body shape. Perhaps a bit too much for my personal taste, but that´s subjective.

Don´t do Hooklees, please. The (Premier) HWM has a thick leather-welt to overcome at the waist, and, that´s just to much strain on the zipper, the way Aero places the zipper tape.
I´ve had three zipper replacements on my Premier HWM (one by Aero themselves) before I gave in and settled for a standard zipper.

Universal/YKK are reliable (as in: never had an issue so far) and look very good too, IMO:

Super. Thank you very much.
This supports some of my thoughts on the model.
I also think that for the style of PHWM, the CXL would fit well.

If CXL I'm considering cordovan steer, tumbled cordovan or midnight blue.

The hookless I had already read somewhere, but thought I'd ask if it's really that bad ;-) Because visually I like it quite well with the two rivets on the hem.

Thanks again.

 

[Mattofumi]

Super. Thank you very much.
This supports some of my thoughts on the model.
I also think that for the style of PHWM, the CXL would fit well.

If CXL I'm considering cordovan steer, tumbled cordovan or midnight blue.

The hookless I had already read somewhere, but thought I'd ask if it's really that bad ;-) Because visually I like it quite well with the two rivets on the hem.

Thanks again.

I have 2 PHWM both in vicenza. They are on here somewhere. Never tried a CXL jacket but based on the vicenza which is a lighter weight, I’d worry the CXL will be too heavy. I find the PHWM hangs a bit heavy on the neck anyway. Just my 2c.

 

[Guppy]

Premier Highwayman is a good choice. Consider also the 50s Half-belt, or the Half-belt Deluxe, which is one of my favorites and has lots of pockets. There's also the August, the Dust Bowl, and the Teamster, all of which are good candidates for a do it all jacket. And another favorite of mine is the Wayfarer.

For leather choices, Aero has long been known for their heavy Horween CXL FQHH, but not all horsehide is that heavy or stiff. Vicenza horse hide is very pliable, taking no breaking in. Aero have a number of others now, recently added: Badalassi, Kelpie, Jerky, all of which look like excellent leathers. Of course there's always non-FQHH: CXL Steer, goat. You can order samples from them now for a few dollars, and decide for yourself.

For color, there's a good variety of browns, from dark to light. It's really just a matter of taste. Any of them look good.

I realize this doesn't narrow it down any, but it's hard to go wrong. The hardest part is deciding which options to select, and then getting the fit just right. And then waiting. And then the breaking in period. And then developing patina. And then realizing that you want another.

 

[Tom71]

Super. Thank you very much.
This supports some of my thoughts on the model.
I also think that for the style of PHWM, the CXL would fit well.

If CXL I'm considering cordovan steer, tumbled cordovan or midnight blue.

The hookless I had already read somewhere, but thought I'd ask if it's really that bad ;-) Because visually I like it quite well with the two rivets on the hem.

Thanks again.

There you go: One in Cordo, one in Midnight Blue. The later has a rather dramatic fade into something like grey-brown. Looks good, but is miles away from the rich blue it originally sports (look at the closeup, including the rather awful albeit functional current zipper). Cordo is always full of light-variations etc.

 

[Tom71]

Midnight-Blue strai

ght outta the box.

 

[MrProper]

There you go: One in Cordo, one in Midnight Blue. The later has a rather dramatic fade into something like grey-brown. Looks good, but is miles away from the rich blue it originally sports (look at the closeup, including the rather awful albeit functional current zipper). Cordo is always full of light-variations etc.

View attachment 455707 View attachment 455708 View attachment 455709

Midnight-Blue strai View attachment 455710 ght outta the box.

Very nice. Thank you very much.
Against the cordovan, the dark blue looks a bit "pale" (not the out of the box, but the worn one).
Should it become CXL, I will probably take tumbled cordovan. Also, because I already have some dark jackets.

 

[MrProper]

Premier Highwayman is a good choice. Consider also the 50s Half-belt, or the Half-belt Deluxe, which is one of my favorites and has lots of pockets. There's also the August, the Dust Bowl, and the Teamster, all of which are good candidates for a do it all jacket. And another favorite of mine is the Wayfarer.

For leather choices, Aero has long been known for their heavy Horween CXL FQHH, but not all horsehide is that heavy or stiff. Vicenza horse hide is very pliable, taking no breaking in. Aero have a number of others now, recently added: Badalassi, Kelpie, Jerky, all of which look like excellent leathers. Of course there's always non-FQHH: CXL Steer, goat. You can order samples from them now for a few dollars, and decide for yourself.

For color, there's a good variety of browns, from dark to light. It's really just a matter of taste. Any of them look good.

I realize this doesn't narrow it down any, but it's hard to go wrong. The hardest part is deciding which options to select, and then getting the fit just right. And then waiting. And then the breaking in period. And then developing patina. And then realizing that you want another.

You name many beautiful models.
Unfortunately, they will have the same problem with my dimensions as the 1930s halfbelt.
I want too much taper from p2p to hem and according to Aero that doesn't work well with HB.
But the PHWM I've had in mind for a while and so that's not a problem.
With the halfbelt I just wait until I have gained a few kg on the belly. And in the meantime, the 2 HB I have anyway must be enough.

 

[MrProper]

Midnight-Blue strai View attachment 455710 ght outta the box.

One more question... would you recommend inside pockets on the PHWM or not?
I usually do not take inner pockets because I do not need them and it makes the chest unnecessarily stiff. But those without zippers make sense maybe?

For lining, I'm considering alpaca.

 

[Tom71]

One more question... would you recommend inside pockets on the PHWM or not?
I usually do not take inner pockets because I do not need them and it makes the chest unnecessarily stiff. But those without zippers make sense maybe?

For lining, I'm considering alpaca.

Hm, I am really biased, as I order all my jackets with inside pockets. For my personal usage, that´s more functional in a travel situation to stow my wallet and smartphone.

That said, the handwarmer pockets on the HWM are pretty deep, and if I put my phone there I ever had an issue with it slipping out etc.

So far, all my CXL jackets have been lined with either cotton drill or Locharran tartan. Plenty warm, if you´re not naturally running cold (which I doubt, giving your hobbies...).
If needed, I rather layer with a thin sweater (FYI: Rymhart has super nice merino-longsleeves that are only EUR 80 or so.) than go for an extra-warm liner. Again, strictly personal.

 

[Guppy]

One more question... would you recommend inside pockets on the PHWM or not?
I usually do not take inner pockets because I do not need them and it makes the chest unnecessarily stiff. But those without zippers make sense maybe?

For lining, I'm considering alpaca.

I love having an inside pocket or two. Aero recommends against them, and if you don't have a need for them yourself, then I would think you'd be better off avoiding the expense of adding them.

I like the alpaca lining that Aero uses for colder weather, but if you go with it, you will limit the versatility of the jacket. A lighter weight cotton or wool tartan lining will be better in warmer weather.

 

[MrProper]

Thanks for the opinions.

So far, all my CXL jackets have been lined with either cotton drill or Locharran tartan.

So I have that with my other jackets also.

I like the alpaca lining that Aero uses for colder weather, but if you go with it, you will limit the versatility of the jacket. A lighter weight cotton or wool tartan lining will be better in warmer weather.

I have not configured the inner pockets because I transport everything in my pants pockets anyway.

But since I like it warm, despite my "cold" hobbies, I have now ordered on the recommendation of Chloe CXSH Cordovan, Alpaca for the body and Moleskin for the sleeves. For warmer weather I still have umpteen other jackets.
Fingers crossed that everything fits and I'm not annoyed. lol