Finds and Deals - Leather Jacket Edition

[Jumper]

Wrinkled and needing some attention, but a kinda cool Canadian jacket. Can't make out the manufacturer— "K & ..." something? 21" p2p; $90 US w/ Offer + shipping.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/224486253211

 

[Jumper]

Women's Taylor police jacket, sz 8; $55 US + shipping


https://www.ebay.com/itm/254820614246

 

[Jumper]

Wheels of Man racer, 23" p2p; $40 US + shipping. Seller places vintage at 1972.



https://www.ebay.com/itm/274819715044

 

[handymike]

Wheels of Man racer, 23" p2p; $40 US + shipping. Seller places vintage at 1972.

View attachment 344106
View attachment 344105
https://www.ebay.com/itm/274819715044

Wheels of Man made a decent jacket. I have one in black with a different tag.

 

[Jin431]

https://www.brogueshop.com/products/aero-leather-indian-ranger-jacket
If you are size 36 you can't lose

Great deal here. Perfect for the shoulder/chest but good thing it's too long in the body and sleeves for me.

 

[Pandemic]

Great deal here. Perfect for the shoulder/chest but good thing it's too long in the body and sleeves for me.

Hahah, I posted this one here last month and hemmed and hawed about the size. It’s good in the shoulders, chest and sleeves for me but body is probably a bit short (though more classic 50s fit).

But every time I see it I am tempted. The classic James Dean jacket (needs mouton to complete that look, of course).

 

[Jin431]

Hahah, I posted this one here last month and hemmed and hawed about the size. It’s good in the shoulders, chest and sleeves for me but body is probably a bit short (though more classic 50s fit).

But every time I see it I am tempted. The classic James Dean jacket (needs mouton to complete that look, of course).

I think it's a cool Aero, haven't seen an Aero with that Talon before. Good thing it won't work for me as this would definitely look better with a mouton as with all jacket goes for me lol

 

[Pandemic]

I think it's a cool Aero, haven't seen an Aero with that Talon before. Good thing it won't work for me as this would definitely look better with a mouton as with all jacket goes for me lol

 

[Jumper]

Wheels of Man made a decent jacket. I have one in black with a different tag.
View attachment 344107

Good to know. I've always wondered about them. In some pics they can look a bit thin and cheaply constructed, yet what little I've heard has been positive, and some have a very cool look. What's your experience, and what other maker(s) would you compare yours to?

 

[dwilson]

Maybe better in the ask a question thread but it seems like a ton of these vintage jackets were made in Wisconsin. Is there any historical context around why?

 

[Coriu]

Maybe better in the ask a question thread but it seems like a ton of these vintage jackets were made in Wisconsin. Is there any historical context around why?

I found this. Wisconsin used to have a lot of tanneries.
http://www.voicesofeastanglia.com/2013/02/wheels-of-man-1972-catalogue.html

 

[tmitchell59]

Maybe better in the ask a question thread but it seems like a ton of these vintage jackets were made in Wisconsin. Is there any historical context around why?

Midwestern Sport Togs in Berlin WI accounts for a large amount of deerskin jackets. They worked in other leathers early in their founding, but primarily Deerskin. Brill Brothers/Golden Thread was located in Milwaukee. They seem to have made some of the Harley jackets, though I'm don't know how far back they go. Fried/Ostermann was also in Milwaukee. The produced Military jackets, Albert Richard labeled jackets going back to the 1920s. They also made jackets for Sears under the Hercules label. I don't know how far back their relationship with Sears goes. I see post war jackets that were made by Fried/Ostermann.

Milfur also in Milwaukee using Deerskin

Just across the border in Rockford Illinois was Stanhouse. Also across the border in Dubuque Iowa is Tailored by Glover.

Minnesota had significant makers. Uber in Deerskin and other leathers. Gordan and Ferguson with military and sportswear jackets. They used the Field and Stream label going back to the 1920s.

There may be others producers I am not aware of in Wisconsin.

Gordon Ferguson on left, Glover 1935 in the middle, Milfur on right and Midwestern Sport Togs

 

[Coriu]

I thought these US motorcycle statistics might interest some of you. Wisconsin is a bit of an outlier, being the only US state on the list amongst the 25 US states with the largest populations. 5 of the 7 (excluding Iowa, right next door to Wisconsin) are amongst the US states with the smallest populations.
https://www.fool.com/investing/2017/08/22/7-states-with-the-most-motorcycles-per-person.aspx

At its peak around 1900, Wisconsin's tanning industry was producing about 15% of US raw leather. By 1910, Milwaukee was the world's largest leather manufacturing center. And by 1920, Harley Davidson was the world's largest motorcycle manufacturer. Increasing competition from abroad led to the leather industry's decline in the U.S. and by the end of the 1930s, only the strongest firms remained in production.

Wisconsin has always impressed me with the number of crafstmen there(Am I allowed to say "craftsMEN" any more). Maybe it coincides with the brutally cold climate and "North Woods," survivalist mentality. These folks flat out know how to make stuff without running down to the corner store. On a separate note, the cradle of the paper industry in the US is Wisconsin. I think we are fast approaching a time when young people are not going to recognize the importance of this state in US history.

FYI-I am not from Wisconsin or a WI homer

 

[AbbaDatDeHat]

Midwestern Sport Togs in Berlin WI accounts for a large amount of deerskin jackets. They worked in other leathers early in their founding, but primarily Deerskin. Brill Brothers/Golden Thread was located in Milwaukee. They seem to have made some of the Harley jackets, though I'm don't know how far back they go. Fried/Ostermann was also in Milwaukee. The produced Military jackets, Albert Richard labeled jackets going back to the 1920s. They also made jackets for Sears under the Hercules label. I don't know how far back their relationship with Sears goes. I see post war jackets that were made by Fried/Ostermann.

Milfur also in Milwaukee using Deerskin

Just across the border in Rockford Illinois was Stanhouse. Also across the border in Dubuque Iowa is Tailored by Glover.

Minnesota had significant makers. Uber in Deerskin and other leathers. Gordan and Ferguson with military and sportswear jackets. They used the Field and Stream label going back to the 1920s.

There may be others producers I am not aware of in Wisconsin.

Gordon Ferguson on left, Glover 1935 in the middle, Milfur on right and Midwestern Sport Togs

View attachment 344212

Field & Stream label/jacket for reference.
B

 

[Claybertrand]

Maybe better in the ask a question thread but it seems like a ton of these vintage jackets were made in Wisconsin. Is there any historical context around

Midwestern Sport Togs in Berlin WI accounts for a large amount of deerskin jackets. They worked in other leathers early in their founding, but primarily Deerskin. Brill Brothers/Golden Thread was located in Milwaukee. They seem to have made some of the Harley jackets, though I'm don't know how far back they go. Fried/Ostermann was also in Milwaukee. The produced Military jackets, Albert Richard labeled jackets going back to the 1920s. They also made jackets for Sears under the Hercules label. I don't know how far back their relationship with Sears goes. I see post war jackets that were made by Fried/Ostermann.

Milfur also in Milwaukee using Deerskin

Just across the border in Rockford Illinois was Stanhouse. Also across the border in Dubuque Iowa is Tailored by Glover.

Minnesota had significant makers. Uber in Deerskin and other leathers. Gordan and Ferguson with military and sportswear jackets. They used the Field and Stream label going back to the 1920s.

There may be others producers I am not aware of in Wisconsin.

Gordon Ferguson on left, Glover 1935 in the middle, Milfur on right and Midwestern Sport Togs

View attachment 344212

Interestingly, Guiterman Brothers, in the St. Paul, MN area made jackets under the Town and Country label. The company was founded in 1883, and began the “Town and Country” line in 1904. They did military jackets in WWI and started making some of the first civilian leather jacket designs starting in the 1910s. In c. 1928, the company was bought out by Gordon and Ferguson, who continued the line (I got this info from an eBay Seller). I don't know if they thereafter phased into the Field and Stream name or if they made both for awhile. I have a 40s or earlier jacket that was made by Guiterman Bros. under the Town and Country label.

The jacket was sold by FG Clayton's, a Haberdasher founded in the late 1800s in Detroit. Little historical Note: The first bomb related killing in the history of Detroit resulted in the death of a Club Doorman/Valet who was killed by a car bomb when he started the car of a known member of The Purple Gang (the predominantly Jewish gang operating in Detroit). This bombing happened across the street from FG Clayton's which was a landmark store known for its lavish and award winning window displays.

Here is the store in an undated photo

Unrelated, but it appears many of the early leather crafters in the U.S. were immigrants and many of them Jewish.

That whole Minneapolis/St. Paul, Milwaukee, Chicago, Detroit hub certainly boasted an impressive list of what we consider some of the iconic leather jacket makers and brands.

This historical info is part of the allure of vintage clothing IMO. Terry and some other loungers are doing a great job piecing together the scraps of history on these long gone makers. There is so little out there readily available on the topic besides Tanaka's book that largely focuses on Moto jackets. Everything vintage is cooler when you know the story of its history IMO.

Keep the info flowin boys!!!!!!!!!

 

[alish]

After reading the posts by @tmitchell59 and @Claybertrand I thought you or others might be able to give me input on the following leather jacket I'm trying to decide whether to buy. I have a couple of leather jackets, but they're from the late 60s-early 70s - nothing this old. The seller says it's from the 30s-40s. The only info I can find on the makers (Lanpher, Skinner and Co., St. Paul) is from the 20s for their fur coats, and this ad for their cloth coats (love the language!), also supposedly from the 20s. The measurements on this jacket appear to be perfect for me. The seller has written that the leather in in good shape - not stiff from being too dried out, and that there are no odors. Stitching seems to be all there. Liner is in okay condition. What other concerns should I have with a jacket of this age? It looks like the inside of the collar is darkened from skin oil / sweat, which I know can cause the leather to dry / harden / weaken. Should I be worried about this? I've heard stories of collars splitting or crumbling after a buyer starts wearing his great 30s-40s eBay or Etsy find. I'm looking for a jacket to wear, not to hang in the closet as part of a collection, so I don't want it to start falling apart on me after I start wearing it this fall. Lastly, what might be a fair price for it - I can't find any images of leather jackets by these makers, so nothing to really compare to. Thanks in advance for any input / advice!!

 

[jacketjunkie]

For daily wear, I would not get a 1930s vntage jacket. These things have a life span as any utility item and most of these jackets have lived most of their life. I think most people here who collect and wear vintage jackets have so many of them, that each individual jacket only sees a few days of wear a year and even most of these vintage jackets are not as old as the 1930s. For a a year around, 200 days a year piece, I‘d recommend something newer.

This jacket is from an unknown maker so no collectors value as Monarch, Hercules or a Buco, I would not pay more than 150 USD for it. Then again, any item is worth as much as anyone is willing to pay for it. To some it may be a treasure, I don‘t know.

 

[Coriu]

Thought some of our zipper experts out there might appreciate this article on the history of the zipper. There is a Chicago and Minnesota connection.
https://www.inventionandtech.com/content/history-zipper-1?page=full

 

[jonbuilder]

After reading the posts by @tmitchell59 and @Claybertrand I thought you or others might be able to give me input on the following leather jacket I'm trying to decide whether to buy. I have a couple of leather jackets, but they're from the late 60s-early 70s - nothing this old. The seller says it's from the 30s-40s. The only info I can find on the makers (Lanpher, Skinner and Co., St. Paul) is from the 20s for their fur coats, and this ad for their cloth coats (love the language!), also supposedly from the 20s. The measurements on this jacket appear to be perfect for me. The seller has written that the leather in in good shape - not stiff from being too dried out, and that there are no odors. Stitching seems to be all there. Liner is in okay condition. What other concerns should I have with a jacket of this age? It looks like the inside of the collar is darkened from skin oil / sweat, which I know can cause the leather to dry / harden / weaken. Should I be worried about this? I've heard stories of collars splitting or crumbling after a buyer starts wearing his great 30s-40s eBay or Etsy find. I'm looking for a jacket to wear, not to hang in the closet as part of a collection, so I don't want it to start falling apart on me after I start wearing it this fall. Lastly, what might be a fair price for it - I can't find any images of leather jackets by these makers, so nothing to really compare to. Thanks in advance for any input / advice!!

View attachment 344259
View attachment 344254 View attachment 344255

In my experience with 30s jackets if the hide is stable not rotting and badly facking they can be worn. It is important to hydrate the hide if it has dried and cleaned the salts and oil need to be removed. If you want it for daily wearing just do not expect the jacket to last another 80 years. 70 80-year-old leather is susceptible to tearing if not hydrated. Tears and weak areas in the leather can be enforced by removing the lining and gluing patches on the weak point on the inside of the leather.
I believe a cool 30s half belt is collectible with or without a label or well-known maker. Collectors go after Hercules Windward, Beck Sportswear jacket and none of these names were jacket makers only labels used by jacket retailers on jackets where the jacket maker is not known

 

[handymike]

I agree. I’ve had both good and bad luck with jackets from this era. It all boils down to condition.