Finds and Deals - Leather Jacket Edition

[JMax]

I prefer the one made by famed American Designer Ed Gein....... I don't know how many faces he saved up to make his model---but apparently lotion and baskets were involved in his process.

The Ghoul can at least accurately claim his masks are bespoke.

 

[Claybertrand]

I was going to mention Jame Gumb, but Ed Gein is better...

@Will Zach Well we all know Jame is the better dancer!!!!

 

[TartuWolf]

Size 42 Vanson vest for 90eu.
https://www.vinted.fr/men/clothes/other-mens-clothing/3193262432-gilet-cuir-biker-taille-l

 

[tmitchell59]

https://www.ebay.nl/itm/19583762852...w9G3PEsR_G&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

View attachment 529635

Wow, this has about 5 hours to go and bid at $888. I find the grey/black somewhat boring, although this one has a fancy back and grommet zipper.

 

[tmitchell59]

HAWT DAMN!!! Small---Wool----DECENT shape-----

https://www.ebay.com/itm/314666404791?hash=item4943944bb7:gHEAAOSwOMZkleWS&amdata=enc:AQAIAAAA8MCk3Tn9J+VJGD+XwMsi26xMlmGyQVmnectXhs41MxYkW7R9GmEQk3dbTJs5b1RUqwGIqLRrXBYVFw0t4Sd6Hp17RWxl57jEqW/QGBntbyCQSKOe+1cxepPm/6GI5JIpbMH13ZDdtRfeHT/9GvYhz6LEOD/xuDciCqreAQaRfmljeKIq4G17dow8fH0BY6xf/f0SPtkmTlmWcvytqwZoi93WzFZxQlwmduA0vE3VBP4uqyeibWw2MHqzl1WdGbOwN1Wm6OZzWfJlzx0K2k/vhxwxLgsB3UGsEjbaGlxstege5MuKVY/WXzokTRzwbEWC1Q==|tkp:Bk9SR9KS9vChYg&LH_ItemCondition=4|10

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Much more interesting than the Hercules I just commented on. Will this one bring $888? like the Hercules above? Did not know Cresco went back to the late 30s.

 

[Claybertrand]

Much more interesting than the Hercules I just commented on. Will this one bring $888? like the Hercules above? Did not know Cresco went back to the late 30s.

I was also surprised to see that Cresco went back anywhere close to the 30s.

 

[Nacho]

Much more interesting than the Hercules I just commented on. Will this one bring $888? like the Hercules above? Did not know Cresco went back to the late 30s.

I was also surprised to see that Cresco went back anywhere close to the 30s.

 

[Marc mndt]

View attachment 529917

Which book is this? One of the lightning magazines?

 

[photo2u]

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Those are some cool images. I think they are more in the late '40s and early '50s. I have several in different hides. I based my observations on original zip production, construction methods, and leather production techniques. My goat leather model has the same skin as in my Korean period production G-1 type flight jackets I own. Lastly, I would not call those jackets sports jackets. During those times, sports jackets were available and looked very different than my jackets. In my view, I would consider them closer to a carcoat utility motorcycle jacket. Japanese books are very cool and frankly showed me some interesting jackets. Clearly ahead of their times in information content. However, I question how they come up with some jacket categories and dates. I find original period catalogs have the most accurate information because you can actually date and read the marketing names used to describe their garments. Thanks for sharing. My daughter loves to visit "little Tokyo" here in L.A. After a nice meal, we often finish up with a visit to their bookstore.

 

[Nacho]

Which book is this? One of the lightning magazines?

Yup. It’s vol. 99 which I think is dedicated to vintage leather jacket.

Below a few pages of the mag.

As you can see, Lee has the leather version of their famous denim jacket. And I don’t know why Lee Trevor is listed in the 60s. Aren’t they more contemporary? I could be wrong here. That’s your Taubers trucker on the left, @tmitchell59

The 70s has a bunch of wild, eccentric looking jackets. Something that @ton312 @handymike would appreciate.

 

[Nacho]

Those are some cool images. I think they are more in the late '40s and early '50s. I have several in different hides. I based my observations on original zip production, construction methods, and leather production techniques. My goat leather model has the same skin as in my Korean period production G-1 type flight jackets I own. Lastly, I would not call those jackets sports jackets. During those times, sports jackets were available and looked very different than my jackets. In my view, I would consider them closer to a carcoat utility motorcycle jacket. Japanese books are very cool and frankly showed me some interesting jackets. Clearly ahead of their times in information content. However, I question how they come up with some jacket categories and dates. I find original period catalogs have the most accurate information because you can actually date and read the marketing names used to describe their garments. Thanks for sharing. My daughter loves to visit "little Tokyo" here in L.A. After a nice meal, we often finish up with a visit to their bookstore.

You’re right. I just replied to Marc before seeing your post. If you look at the reply, you will see that they list Lee Trevor in the 60s. I remember reading a post from a member here saying that Lee Trevor is a French company who was trying to reproduce these old American jackets with their own take. And they’re more recent rather than a vintage maker. I think it was @Monitor who posted that long time ago.

 

[Marc mndt]

And I don’t know why Lee Trevor is listed in the 60s. Aren’t they more contemporary?

French '90s

 

[Nacho]

French '90s

That’s it!

 

[Claybertrand]

Japanese books are very cool and frankly showed me some interesting jackets. Clearly ahead of their times in information content. However, I question how they come up with some jacket categories and dates. I find original period catalogs have the most accurate information because you can actually date and read the marketing names used to describe their garments.

I agree 100%. I still get a kick out of how the Japanese basically created these categories for jackets---- in particular I am amused by SINGLE RIDER (straight zip) vs. DOUBLE RIDER (cross zip)....... there is literally nothing DOUBLE about a zipper zipping off center and at an angle.

I take things literal. When I first got into this hobby, I always assumed that a DOUBLE RIDER was some jacket made for those Couples that ride......I reasoned in my mind that perhaps this was some special model of jacket where the person on back of the bike could somehow snap into the back of the jacket of the person "driving" the bike!!! I never got into reasoning to myself WHY THE HELL this would be a thing........ but since I never rode tandem I figured it was just something I wasn't familiar with. Then I find out its a name established by non native English speakers. I wondered if they somehow got it mixed up with a Double Breasted type of jacket. After awhile I just came to accept that they call the Cross Zips DOUBLE RIDERS for whatever reason.

But I suppose its the same--and no less confusing than our Half Belts. In my opinion, Car Coats (which some call LONG HALF BELTS) should be "Half Belts" (as there is actually a true full belt centered right about at half the length of the garment) while the jackets we commonly refer to as Half Belts should be called "Short Half Belts" because the "belt" is no belt at all but rather cinches that are generally 2/3 to 3/4 the way down the length of the garment. I just think those are literally more accurate.

Now don't get me started on EGG CREAMS!!!!!!!!!! Talk about a misleading name for something!!!!

 

[dudewuttheheck]

@Claybertrand as bad as single rider and double rider are as terms, nothing I can think of comes close to egg cream for misleading names.

 

[Aloysius]

I agree 100%. I still get a kick out of how the Japanese basically created these categories for jackets---- in particular I am amused by SINGLE RIDER (straight zip) vs. DOUBLE RIDER (cross zip)....... there is literally nothing DOUBLE about a zipper zipping off center and at an angle.

Hm, I feel that way about a lot of these categorizations (though I also don't blame them–every vintage related hobby comes up with categorizations like this to sort through things that exist in large volume and myriad types), but not this.

It seems straightforwardly a somewhat Engrish version of "single breasted riding jacket" and "double breasted riding jacket". I don't know how far back the "cross-zip" term we prefer here goes, either. To me, frankly, they're double-breasted leather jackets (as someone who is often in double-breasted suits or sports jackets).

 

[JMax]

Kerr

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2853592514...CJi9omFSVa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

[Claybertrand]

Hm, I feel that way about a lot of these categorizations (though I also don't blame them–every vintage related hobby comes up with categorizations like this to sort through things that exist in large volume and myriad types), but not this.

It seems straightforwardly a somewhat Engrish version of "single breasted riding jacket" and "double breasted riding jacket". I don't know how far back the "cross-zip" term we prefer here goes, either. To me, frankly, they're double-breasted leather jackets (as someone who is often in double-breasted suits or sports jackets).

This does make some sense. Although I always associated "Double Breasted"with the overlapping closure of the Coat along with the Double Buttons. Like Peacoats and some barnstormer/aviator type jackets have that overlapping closure. So I don't see an exact match garment wise with cross zips. To me--the name "cross zips" whoever came up with it--is pretty logically descriptive of a zipper going ACROSS the chest versus a typical Vertical direction. But I could see how the cross zip/double rider/double breasted look tends to be similar. I always thought that the diagonal zipper was so the zipper wouldn't bunch up when a rider is leaning forward/moving around.

A lot of the early info on Vintage leathers is from Rin Tanaka. Its so interesting because the information had to be organically tracked down and curated from dwindling or nonexistent sources. So yes there are inaccuracies here and there but a lot of the terms and the foundational info on vintage leathers came through his work and interpretation and we sorta rely on all his info. Its hard to track down this information like Tanaka did and like @tmitchell59 and other loungers are doing without anyone to really ask. I really want to get ahold of Tanaka's leather jacket book.

 

[Aloysius]

This does make some sense. Although I always associated "Double Breasted"with the overlapping closure of the Coat along with the Double Buttons. Like Peacoats and some barnstormer/aviator type jackets have that overlapping closure. So I don't see an exact match garment wise with cross zips.

What do you mean? Cross-zip jackets have the same overlapping closure.

 

[tmitchell59]

There are inaccuracies in all the Japanese jacket books I have seen. Mostly inaccurate dates. I always thought of Japan as the well of vintage knowledge, now I'm not so sure. They own the jackets and that is a great advantage.

Piecing together the history of these jackets is a challenge.

this forum had done much to dig into the history, there are valuable threads all over this forum.