Field Leathers

[Carlos840]

I wished Greg had made at least one pattern without the pointed shoulder / angular sleeves attachment.

The Peters could be it. The original was rounded. Like Langlitz, Lewis...etc. But the Japanese Peter's repro is also pointed shoulder, which isn't what the original looked like to me. The Freewheeler one is also angular so still no. No Peters repro to date is a repro.

View attachment 421044

Not for long....
After Greg dropped me i got in touch with Stu, the mockup i tried last week was pretty glorious, the leather version should follow soon!

 

[red devil]

It’s worth bringing it up to him. I’m sure he’d be interested. He’s been talking about wanting to work more on patterns.

I’ve also wondered if there’s a Johnson take on Peter’s considering my understanding is that Johnson inherited a lot of SF’s leatherwork know how and heritage.

Not strictly a repro per se, but my customs were heavily inspired by the Peters

And the bison version

With the mouton

 

[Aloysius]

I’d say those qualify!

 

[JMax]

I mean there is nothing to like more or less here… the Freewheelers is a jacket. The Field is a pattern test for fitting a long-distance customer. They're not in the same category.

There is design-wise. Or does Greg send mock-ups without pockets that will be there on the final version? Legit question.

I prefer the version with more pockets. I think Treeman also does.

 

[roadking04]

I prefer the version with more pockets. I think Treeman also does.

Did someone say pockets? I love pockets. lol.

 

[MrProper]

Or does Greg send mock-ups without pockets that will be there on the final version?

I think the mockups are without pockets to keep effort and cost down. I wouldn't need pockets to judge the fit.

 

[handymike]

I’m glad to see that Greg is venturing into more interesting collars (as seen on @JCSD’s newest jacket).

 

[Aloysius]

There is design-wise. Or does Greg send mock-ups without pockets that will be there on the final version? Legit question.

I prefer the version with more pockets. I think Treeman also does.

Why would the mock-up have pockets? I’ve never been to a basted suit fitting that had the pockets and such attached.

 

[Canuck Panda]

The mock up jacket in cotton canvas is still a mystery to me. It is not the same thickness/stiffness/drape as leather. So how is it suppose to tell how the leather one would actual work?

For the money a cheapo vinyl or cheap leather one (from scraps) could be made as a test. And would make it more useful for custom fitting.

Cloth fitting to me is more gimmick than actual use. Sorry to be blunt. But it will not show what needs to be improved in leather version. And that would be a waste to Greg's finishing skills.

And obviously Greg is gunning for the San Mateo copy with that extra long body length. Which I believe is the wrong length for the custom motorcycle jacket these Peters were originally suppose to be. And the sleeves would be more along the lines of the Langlitz given Peter's geographic location on the west coast.

I too bought into the having a better (finishining) Shinki jacket at £1000, that's why I bought a Field Leather jacket instead of going FW or RMC. But now looking back I don't think it's best for long term wear if Greg base his patterns from the Japanese brands, especially when it comes to motorcycle jackets.

 

[Marc mndt]

Cloth fitting to me is more gimmick than actual use. Sorry to be blunt. But it will not show what needs to be improved in leather version. And that would be a waste to Greg's finishing skills.

I strongly disagree. The mock-up is an easy way to see how small (or bigger) tweaks impact the overall fit. Some experimenting with the sleeve pitch:

Whether it should be offered as an extra service that's charged for or whether it should be included into the base price is another discussion. If their patterns were more forgiving these mock-ups wouldn't be needed imo.

 

[Harris HTM]

Maybe a bit off topic, but it has been discussed here before (in other threads): Greg had a Q&A on his Insta today. Someone asked whether a shell cordovan jacket is possible and Greg gave a straight-forward answer: "100% no". Case closed for me.

 

[willyto]

Not for long....
After Greg dropped me i got in touch with Stu, the mockup i tried last week was pretty glorious, the leather version should follow soon!

What? Dropped doesn't sound very nice.

 

[red devil]

Maybe a bit off topic, but it has been discussed here before (in other threads): Greg had a Q&A on his Insta today. Someone asked whether a shell cordovan jacket is possible and Greg gave a straight-forward answer: "100% no". Case closed for me.

Maybe he can't or does not want to look into it, but if it is possible to make a jacket in 3mm cow, it should be possible to make a shell jacket. Only issue are the small hides.

 

[Canuck Panda]

I strongly disagree. The mock-up is an easy way to see how small (or bigger) tweaks impact the overall fit. Some experimenting with the sleeve pitch:

View attachment 421188 View attachment 421189


Whether it should be offered as an extra service that's charged for or whether it should be included into the base price is another discussion. If their patterns were more forgiving these mock-ups wouldn't be needed imo.

Not arguing with you on how you like your fit process. Simply point out the fact that "don't fix something if it ain't broke".

TB sends actual leather jackets as part of their fit process, no cloth jackets.

Langlitz and Lewis uses their own numbers fit systems, no cloth jackets.

All above are better than Greg's system now. And cost less. And better patterns, yes even Aero.

Greg has one of the best finishing skills in the leather jacket game right now. Why waste it on making cloth jackets?

I am repeat buying more from other brands, but stopped at one Field Leathers. Not because it isn't good. In fact it is the best finished jacket I've had. But that was it. Everything else was no good. The major "jacket" part of the jacket.

Even Simmonsbilt continues to tweak their patterns. It is now some hybrid of Aero and Lewis.

Don't waste Greg's skill on making one cloth jacket for one customer is what I am saying. Upgrade the base pattern and spread that top finishing love to everyone. That's what I am saying.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Maybe he can't or does not want to look into it, but if it is possible to make a jacket in 3mm cow, it should be possible to make a shell jacket. Only issue are the small hides.

^^^ This. It is totally doable to make a Shell Cordovan jacket.

Largest shells are about 4 square feet. Big enough for any body panels or sleeves. But that's it. The 500 dollar XXL shell is only good for, one panel in extra long or extra wide. And thus the cost will add up, very fast...

 

[Marc mndt]

"don't fix something if it ain't broke".

I won't go as far as to say his patterns are broken, but there's certainly room for improvement. His base pattern simply doesn't fit me.

TB sends actual leather jackets as part of their fit process, no cloth jackets.

I've more than once heard about cases in which they sent a fit jacket in a totally different size. That's what I call useless and a waste of money.

Don't waste Greg's skill on making one cloth jacket for one customer is what I am saying.

He doesn't make them, Samantha does.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Greg's stock Manhattan Size 42 has a p2p in the 21"s, stretched 22" max. From what I see in the for sale section, the 44 jumps to almost 24", and shoulders also jump up more than usual. Something is not right with his pattern grading. This was the problem with Aero. I have them.
And there is the sleeve rotation. It is nice that he wants to do something different. But again, a simple copy of something that works is a good start. SB literally copied Lewis sleeve attachment, and put it on an Aero body, and it now work like wonders.
Not saying Greg's pattern is "broken". Those are not my words. But it is evident he is modelling his pattern after the Japanese brands with the super angled sleeves and wierd upward size grading. This is not gonna work in the long run.

 

[red devil]

His base pattern simply doesn't fit me.

I have he exact same problem, his pattern does not work for me either

 

[MrProper]

The mock up jacket in cotton canvas is still a mystery to me. It is not the same thickness/stiffness/drape as leather. So how is it suppose to tell how the leather one would actual work?

For the money a cheapo vinyl or cheap leather one (from scraps) could be made as a test. And would make it more useful for custom fitting.

Cloth fitting to me is more gimmick than actual use. Sorry to be blunt. But it will not show what needs to be improved in leather version. And that would be a waste to Greg's finishing skills.

And obviously Greg is gunning for the San Mateo copy with that extra long body length. Which I believe is the wrong length for the custom motorcycle jacket these Peters were originally suppose to be. And the sleeves would be more along the lines of the Langlitz given Peter's geographic location on the west coast.

I too bought into the having a better (finishining) Shinki jacket at £1000, that's why I bought a Field Leather jacket instead of going FW or RMC. But now looking back I don't think it's best for long term wear if Greg base his patterns from the Japanese brands, especially when it comes to motorcycle jackets.

If I had had a mock-up at my FL, I would now have a jacket that fit. We would have then seen that the length is not enough and the sleeve rotation does not fit for my physique.
And yes, a solution without mock-ups would be best, of course. Maybe the new patterns will manage this.

 

[JMax]

Why would the mock-up have pockets? I’ve never been to a basted suit fitting that had the pockets and such attached.

I don’t do cotton or whatever mock-ups for leather jackets. I’ll leave it at that. All I would say is that pockets in leather jackets, especially with heavier hides, can impact fit and definitely impact how the jacket looks when worn, especially when viewed from the profile. In my experience, this is particularly true for interior pockets.

That pocketless mock-ups are a cost cutting practice makes more sense to me. Thanks @MrProper Don’t know why you pay for mock-ups though, you now are dialed in to what works for you. You don’t have interior pockets in most of your leather jackets, right? So in your case, the transition from cloth to leather is more straightforward.