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Field Leathers

air

One of the Regulars
Messages
130
That's what I thought too, the attached photo below is the one I requested. I dunno why Greg made it as tall as the one in the mock up jacket but I'm guessing he matched it to the height of the bottom band of the front of the jacket.

View attachment 285065
The back panel on the mock up seems more narrow than the model photo. Are you going for a slimmer fit?

^^ agreed, to my untrained eyes the mock up jackets back looks more like an hour glass shape compared to a more V shaped reference jacket
The side straps are higher like the middle line in an H, when they are tightened you get a hourglass, if they where lower like a U, you get a V.
 
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Jin431

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,912
Location
Bay Area CA
The back panel on the mock up seems more narrow than the model photo. Are you going for a slimmer fit?
I noticed that too, forgive the terms I use but looks like the side panel of the mock up jacket is attached higher on the arm hole seam compared to the reference jacket. Yes, I'm going for a trim fit just a tshirt/light sweater underneath
 

diabel

Familiar Face
Messages
57
Location
San Jose, Ca
That's what I thought too, the attached photo below is the one I requested. I dunno why Greg made it as tall as the one in the mock up jacket but I'm guessing he matched it to the height of the bottom band of the front of the jacket.

View attachment 285065
It looks to me as well that he tried to match the height. I think that design will look better if you keep the straps but lower the bottom band both up front and in the back. That said I do applaud Greg for willing to take design risks.
 

Jin431

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,912
Location
Bay Area CA
It looks to me as well that he tried to match the height. I think that design will look better if you keep the straps but lower the bottom band both up front and in the back. That said I do applaud Greg for willing to take design risks.

Was thinking along those lines, Maybe to reduce the front bottom band by 1.5" and the back bottom band by 2", the sleeve design by 1", lower the straps placement by 2", change the angle of the side band for a more V shaped taper on the back panel.
 

air

One of the Regulars
Messages
130
I noticed that too, forgive the terms I use but looks like the side panel of the mock up jacket is attached higher on the arm hole seam compared to the reference jacket. Yes, I'm going for a trim fit just a tshirt/light sweater underneath
I think that's it, since the back panel is more narrow, the side panels need to go farther back, eating into what should be the back panel, so they attack higher on the back side of the sleeve. Basically two stripes of back panel have been substituted by side panel.
 

Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,299
Very cool. How accurate have the fit jackets been? I have yet to do fabric to leather in terms of fit jackets and have only had leather fit jackets previously. With fabric being so different, I'm curious how well the measurements translate. I'm not trying to be skeptical because I'm going to get something from Greg myself, I'm just curious about it.
Mine wasn't 100% accurate in terms of measurements. I spec'd 22' ptp and 19.5 bottom hem. The fit jacket was 22.5' and 20.5'. But apart from that, the jacket was very helpful in getting the pattern right (shoulder /neckline was altered for the final jacket). We also adjusted the sleeve length, the position of the chest pocket and the height of the bottom hem panels.
6AA6C42F-EDF4-46A6-8E23-C3BC34095375.jpeg
9B57471B-E2E6-429C-9AB8-A869930E9536.jpeg
EBDACC57-417E-42F2-B56F-C2F25DF8A9AA.jpeg
81381303-ED80-46FB-B99B-245D2B6B5D40.jpeg


I'm not sure pinning down the jacket to address certain pattern issues is for everyone though. I used to work in the tailoring business, measuring up made to measure suits. So I do have some experience.
 
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willyto

One Too Many
Messages
1,616
Location
Barcelona
Even if it was only for the sleeve lenght it would be already worth it. You can wear the jacket, see how it does and check that the pattern is comfortable.

Same is done with shoes, some bespoke makers(specially if done online) send a trial pair so the customer can try it on and check fit issues.
 

Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,299
Thanks for that @Marc mndt that's very helpful. I do not have that experience that you have, so I may not do as well as you did!
Even without any experience, the fit jacket will be helpful. You'll be able to see how your design choices translate from paper to jacket (in case you're going for a custom design). And like @willyto said, you'll know whether it's comfortable or not. If it's not, Greg will know how to adjust the pattern. No expert knowledge from the customer's side needed.

Also, I think the fit jacket really adds to the fun of the overall project. Working with Greg is nothing but fun. I honestly think the amount of time and effort Greg puts into the whole process is unique.
 

red devil

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,948
Location
London
Thanks for that @Marc mndt that's very helpful. I do not have that experience that you have, so I may not do as well as you did!

As @Marc mndt said, you are working with professionals, they will know how to adjust the patterns. I did it with Johnson leather and got a perfectly fitting jacket.

And, as mentionned, I have a pattern with Greg as well :)
 

Berto

One of the Regulars
Messages
274
I'm curious how long Field Leathers is able to maintain this service as a one-man operation. Orders have increased noticeably, in other words, the time window making a jacket (incl. a mock-up jacket) is getting smaller ... hopefully we don't see the same tragedy here as with goodwear leather :(

The point is how long does take to made a custom leather jacket.
 

air

One of the Regulars
Messages
130
I'm curious how long Field Leathers is able to maintain this service as a one-man operation. Orders have increased noticeably, in other words, the time window making a jacket (incl. a mock-up jacket) is getting smaller ... hopefully we don't see the same tragedy here as with goodwear leather :(
What happened to them?
 

Jin431

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,912
Location
Bay Area CA
I know what you mean. I heard stories about how long a wait it is to get a good wear and the inconsistency of communication with the maker at times. FL is still a one man team and with how involving his business model is there is bound to be delays. My 1st jacket from him took about 4 mos from order date to delivery so it's not too long
 

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