Explaining the Aero Fit.

[jonbuilder]

The leather jackets I wore during my early years were much larger than I would consider today. They were sold and replaced with smaller jackets.

 

[handymike]

The fit-jacket is the best solution if you can’t go in person to try things on at different points.

 

[Monitor]

While I still think the Highwayman is one of the coolest looking jackets in the world when worn in the right size, I don't think there's anyone in the world who'd prefer it in an intended size number.

 

[handymike]

Even in the 80s they were cut smaller. My old one in a 38 had 17.5” shoulders and 21.5” pit to pit. I’m not sure when they “grew”. I get that the body shapes might be based on certain decades, but even Aero states that the Highwayman is a “boxier American cut...” (ie larger) the Original 59’er should fit more accurately, right?
I think it would be a great move to standardize shoulder and pit to pit across their line. Then the “fit” of the decade design/ pattern would be more apparent.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

I had no problem with my first top tier leather jacket circa 2000. I knew I wore a size 40 off the rack and Aero had a Highwayman with added sleeve length on their sales page....

So on my first custom I simply added a little body length on my Bootlegger that I prefered.....

 

[Carlos840]

The fit-jacket is the best solution if you can’t go in person to try things on at different points.

But it's not 100% fool proof.
My GF had an Aero jacket made, they sent a first fit jacket which really didn't work, we sent it back, they sent a second one which was much better, small adjustement were made before they did the leather version.
When she received the leather version she was originally pretty happy, as it did fit decently and looked good in pictures, but she found it so uncomfortable she ended up never wearing it.

She tried all the break in tricks, nothing worked, she hasn't worn the jacket in 4 years...
It's not that she doesn't like leather jackets either, she wear her Lewis Leathers all the time.
In this case, the cotton test jacket didn't translate well into leather.

If anyone wants a nice present for their GF, we were actually discussing putting it up for sale on TFL soon:

 

[HoosierDaddy]

When I found Thedi. I did contact Thurston brothers for a fit jacket just to see how Thedi fit....
The fit jacket slipped right on in place like I'd already worn it for awhile. Nice! So I ordered my preferred sleeve length of 26 1/4 and same body length. When it arrived I fell in love. For me it was beyond my expectations. So I never really had a problem figuring out fit for me. I just searched for a brand that had a leather and style that I liked and requested my measurements for fit. I liked the Thedi style.

 

[handymike]

I felt the same way when I discovered Thedi. I’d take it back if offered .

 

[El Marro]

While I still think the Highwayman is one of the coolest looking jackets in the world when worn in the right size, I don't think there's anyone in the world who'd prefer it in an intended size number.

Agreed!
I have owned three Highwaymen and the third one fits the best. It is a size 42 while every other jacket I own is a size 44 or 46.

 

[red devil]

I know mine and I know several others who know theirs.

To be fair, you are passionate about this hobby and you spent a lot of time honing your knowledge and I suspect these friends of yours at least to a certain extent as well.
I will admit freely that I had no idea of my measurements until spending some time here.

+1 That's what happened to me too, i drove to Aero, was measured, ordered two jackets.
When i received them both where oversized. I sold both back to Aero at a loss, one of the reasons i won't order again...

Seems like Aero decided to dictate the fit you should have. The "better make it too big than too tight" mentality I guess.

Of course you'd rather get right the first time. Getting it wrong sucks, especially when the jacket is practically unwearable. A custom build that's unwearable is something the maker is to blame for imo, unless you've intentionally ignored the maker's advice.

What I meant to say is that it's impossible to get a custom build 100% perfect on your first try. My last custom build was a FL. It's not perfect but I'd say it's close at 98/100. There's no way I could have achieved this close-to-perfect fit two years ago. Since then I've bought (and sold) a number of jackets and I've learned not only from my mistakes but I also learned how I like a jacket to fit. Learning takes effort. Trial and error. I enjoy getting better at it.

To be really honest, I was mainly looking for "good enough" especially considering that my weight has not been so stable. Which means that my perfect fitting jacket varies depending on my weight lol
Technically you can adjust the fit of a jacket or change your body to fit better when you think about it... although the latter might be a bit extreme

Marc, I have to disagree with you about it not be possible to get a 100% perfect fit the first time with bespoken. I have only one made to order bespoken jacket and there is nothing I would change with the fit. The first time I say it takes two visits to the tailor. First visit to be measured and discuss with the tailor what you want with the fit. Second visit to try on the canvas or whatever fit test jacket to review any fit adjustments or detail changes like pocket size and layout or perhaps the collar or front dip etc. After the first jacket, I still think it would be worth the extra effort/expense to do a test jacket in canvas and go over the fit in zoom.
Johnson Leather made my bespoken jacket at a cost of just less than an Aero off the rack jacket at the time.

edit of course knowing how you want a jacket to fit in another manner and can change over time. Changing your thoughts on fit does not mean your first thoughts were wrong just they change may be influenced by reading what other jacket-wearing TFL member are saying about the proper fit

You went with Johnson Leathers... they know what they are doing. They got me a spot on fit, the first time - they actually did a second mock up jacket just to be sure to get the fit right with me. And now they are making another mock up for the oncoming orders.

 

[jonbuilder]

You went with Johnson Leathers... they know what they are doing.

well put

 

[dudewuttheheck]

To be fair, you are passionate about this hobby and you spent a lot of time honing your knowledge and I suspect these friends of yours at least to a certain extent as well.
I will admit freely that I had no idea of my measurements until spending some time here.

That's a good point. I'm too used to thinking of this place as "normal."

 

[jonbuilder]

But it's not 100% fool proof.
My GF had an Aero jacket made, they sent a first fit jacket which really didn't work, we sent it back, they sent a second one which was much better, small adjustement were made before they did the leather version.
When she received the leather version she was originally pretty happy, as it did fit decently and looked good in pictures, but she found it so uncomfortable she ended up never wearing it.

She tried all the break in tricks, nothing worked, she hasn't worn the jacket in 4 years...
It's not that she doesn't like leather jackets either, she wear her Lewis Leathers all the time.
In this case, the cotton test jacket didn't translate well into leather.

If anyone wants a nice present for their GF, we were actually discussing putting it up for sale on TFL soon:

I not suggesting my comments apply to your girlfriend or yourself. As you have stated more elegantly than I ever could jacket patterns are a multi-dimension process. I think when working with a heavy and stiff leather-like Hoween CXL the fit or jacket measurements need to work with the leather, heavy stiffer leather cut into a jacket pattern like a close-fitting men's sports jacket cut from fine wool will not be comfortable to wear, it just does not work. The same goes for laddies jackets made from heavy leather being cut to resemble models wearing fashion jackets cut from thin lambskin. This is an example of the wearer's learning curb that Marc mentioned. The fit process involves two people the tailor and the wearer. Skilled tailors will make suggestions so the finished jacket works.
Alan at JL did convince one of our members that a 6 oz jacket would not be practical to wear.
Another point the leather jackets from the 1920s through the 1950s were work and sporting jackets. Currently, many of the jackets we are wearing are modeled after these work jackets but we are not buying them as work jackets.

 

[handymike]

Alan failed to “convince” our friend, he just refused to make the jacket without skiving it down if I remember correctly.

 

[jglf]

If you don’t skive down 6oz leather, when you fold it over to stitch there is a good chance the leather will split. I’ve had it happen to with my heavy steer cxl jacket and that was only 4.5oz.

 

[Carlos840]

I not suggesting my comments apply to your girlfriend or yourself. As you have stated more elegantly than I ever could jacket patterns are a multi-dimension process. I think when working with a heavy and stiff leather-like Hoween CXL the fit or jacket measurements need to work with the leather, heavy stiffer leather cut into a jacket pattern like a close-fitting men's sports jacket cut from fine wool will not be comfortable to wear, it just does not work. The same goes for laddies jackets made from heavy leather being cut to resemble models wearing fashion jackets cut from thin lambskin. This is an example of the wearer's learning curb that Marc mentioned. The fit process involves two people the tailor and the wearer. Skilled tailors will make suggestions so the finished jacket works.
Alan at JL did convince one of our members that a 6 oz jacket would not be practical to wear.
Another point the leather jackets from the 1920s through the 1950s were work and sporting jackets. Currently, many of the jackets we are wearing are modeled after these work jackets but we are not buying them as work jackets.

I think it's not that simple...We both knew more or less what we were doing when we ordered this jacket.
She already owned and wore a Lewis Leathers which was made of similar thickness leather.
The Aero pictured is Vincenza, so not super thick. The measurements of the Aero are actually all bigger than the Lewis.
The problems she is experiencing with it are the same i have with my Aeros, it hangs on the neck and gives her back pain, and the jacket has poor mobility whilst not being tight in any way.
It's the classic "it feels too big and too small at the same time" Aero fit.

 

[Tusche]

I own about 35 Aero jackets and had never ever any fit issues. ( maybe just from my personal perspective ) Most of them I bought via german retailers.
The only thing I changed from the standard pattern are the back and sleeve length.
This feeling “too big and too small at the same time” is something I can’t imagine.

Always my order includes the words “ HH as heavy as possible “.
I enjoy the break in time and really like how beautiful the HH ages.

The size advice from Aero is pretty clear to me.
Normally I am a size 38, as a example the classic Highwayman I size down to 36, the premium highwayman I size up to a size 40.
Both fits perfectly.
Due to the fact I own really more than enough I have one for every single opportunity.
Some fits with just a T- Shirt underneath, some has room for a heavy layering underneath, some are my jackets riding my sidecar rig, some are for a nice evening at a good restaurant.


By the way I own leather jackets from Eastman, Thedi, LW, Les Motocyclettistes, Orgueil, Y2, Finecreek, Himel, SB, Real McCoys, Original WW A2, The Few, Buzz Rickson, Whitefeathers, Mr. Freedom, Addict clothes, Vanson as well.

This said I am not an expert about the right fit but I have really a couple of jackets to compare.
I will never judge about someone’s jacket or the fit ( except someone asked me ) because for me all is a personal feeling and taste.

 

[hondurasdave47]

I own about 35 Aero jackets and had never ever any fit issues.

Sorry, I didn't make it past the first sentence!

 

[Marc mndt]

Whitefeathers

Which whitefeather do you own? I would love to some pics. Those are a rarity here at the lounge. I especially like their cossack.

 

[Riu]

But it's not 100% fool proof.
My GF had an Aero jacket made, they sent a first fit jacket which really didn't work, we sent it back, they sent a second one which was much better, small adjustement were made before they did the leather version.
When she received the leather version she was originally pretty happy, as it did fit decently and looked good in pictures, but she found it so uncomfortable she ended up never wearing it.

She tried all the break in tricks, nothing worked, she hasn't worn the jacket in 4 years...
It's not that she doesn't like leather jackets either, she wear her Lewis Leathers all the time.
In this case, the cotton test jacket didn't translate well into leather.

If anyone wants a nice present for their GF, we were actually discussing putting it up for sale on TFL soon:

What leather is that?