Ever wish western companies would compete?

[Observe]

True, though it fits him terribly. (Not because of Japanese v American pattern; it was obviously a one off for him, just a poorly patterned one.)

While I agree that it does not fit well according to TFL standards, I think that it matches his personal style. He at the very least was pleased enough with the fit to wear it to whatever event this picture is from.

He probably just has more money than he knows what to do with and decided to get the "best" leather jacket (expensive leather, ostentatious pattern) that is actually a "real" leather jacket and not some bizarre $10k fashion abomination.

 

[Jasonissm]

Maybe I am not familiar enough with Japanese brands. For me, it isn't about v taper. I taper nicely and can do even better losing weight. My challenge is always to get something that fits my chest without being a circus tent around my belly. Jason Momoa is definitely a western physique, but if I had his money, I am sure I could find a customization.

Shoulder-chest ratio seems pretty fine for everything that I seen/owned, although I feel most Japanese brands outside of the heavy hitters like Freewheelers, have meh to crappy patterns that aren't so flattering. Main outlier that I can think of is The Flat Head which has an insulting shoulder-chest ratio on some of their jackets. I own two of their shirts and they are in the "wide" measurement which is closer to the standard chest/shoulder ratio.

I'm of the camp where I can fit mostly everything off the rack, so I'd rather go that route, main issue being Japanese brands often stop at size 42, or retailers only carry up to 42.

 

[Aloysius]

I don't think it looks bad per se (I've certainly seen worse on celebs; the fact that he's not wearing the execrable "SLP moto" alone earns him some points for not being a fashion victim); I just think FW was kind of lost in making something for such a size.

 

[Aloysius]

I'm of the camp where I can fit mostly everything off the rack, so I'd rather go that route, main issue being Japanese brands often stop at size 42, or retailers only carry up to 42.

Well, that and many Japanese brands use 42 to mean "XL" (in Japan), giving the jacket a sub-20 inch chest.

 

[Damon141]

I was looking through the Bill Kelso site last night and he actually has some really nice reproductions.
Last time I looked he had the Durable and the Hercules reproductions along with the Californian and others but i don’t remember seeing the Buco J-23 and the LeatherTogs aviator.
I’m sure as time passes he will create more from the archive list on the website.

That’s kind of what I meant when I started this thread, the total reproduction package, linings, labels, hardware etc.

 

[dwilson]

Shoulder-chest ratio seems pretty fine for everything that I seen/owned, although I feel most Japanese brands outside of the heavy hitters like Freewheelers, have meh to crappy patterns that aren't so flattering. Main outlier that I can think of is The Flat Head which has an insulting shoulder-chest ratio on some of their jackets. I own two of their shirts and they are in the "wide" measurement which is closer to the standard chest/shoulder ratio.

I'm of the camp where I can fit mostly everything off the rack, so I'd rather go that route, main issue being Japanese brands often stop at size 42, or retailers only carry up to 42.

Always love when people present their opinions as fact. TFH is effectively custom made for me and there is no way I'm the only person with this body type. You can say TFH doesn't work for your body but to start saying "insulting" is hilarious to me. It just doesn't work for you man.

 

[Damon141]

Always love when people present their opinions as fact. TFH is effectively custom made for me and there is no way I'm the only person with this body type. You can say TFH doesn't work for your body but to start saying "insulting" is hilarious to me. It just doesn't work for you man.

He’s probably just frustrated because he loves their products and they can’t work for him, I feel that way about RMC and Freewheelers, those two brands really bring the total package when it comes to vintage reproduction motorcycle jackets (for me atleast) great leather, well thought out liners, beautiful replica labels, great workmanship. Amazing details.

The Flat Head must be doing something right though, because they have stocked their products in many countries.

It would be awesome if all brands let you make it sizing adjustments like body length and sleeve length.
I’m assuming they have thought about this and just don’t want unsold inventory.

But we can special order from Thedi, Vanson, Aero and Lewis Leather for that, Eastman & LW for long sizes, and a few others for full bespoke.

 

[navetsea]

While I agree that it does not fit well according to TFL standards, I think that it matches his personal style. He at the very least was pleased enough with the fit to wear it to whatever event this picture is from. View attachment 478201

He probably just has more money than he knows what to do with and decided to get the "best" leather jacket (expensive leather, ostentatious pattern) that is actually a "real" leather jacket and not some bizarre $10k fashion abomination.

to me the fit reminds me of vanson and langlitz site, i somehow imagine LW version would fit better on him

 

[Damon141]

to me the fit reminds me of vanson and langlitz site, i somehow imagine LW version would fit better on him

Being a weightlifter myself I just figured he gave himself room to bulk and cut plus normalize when living life, with the jacket still fitting.

Unless you are a YouTube influencer, fitness model, or the Rock , there are going to be fluctuations in your body based on diet and training.

Jason Momoa seems to take time off in between roles to live life, the Rock is an “always on” type of guy, we will see how that affects him later in life

 

[navetsea]

somehow I think FW measure all-around his chest, his wrist, and desired jacket length, and then take their existing pattern to resize it in photocopy machine or photoshop to accommodate the chest size, and then taper the lower sleeve to his wrist.

the neck hole is very large for example because the pattern there is probably just following a sized up existing pattern for a normal figure proportion, to me a telltale sign the jacket pattern was not a tailor made for him.

 

[navetsea]

tom ford did a lot better fit for him imo, western company that competes in term of made to measure pattern

 

[Aloysius]

somehow I think FW measure all-around his chest, his wrist, and desired jacket length, and then take their existing pattern to resize it in photocopy machine or photoshop to accommodate the chest size, and then taper the lower sleeve to his wrist.

the neck hole is very large for example because the pattern there is probably just following a sized up existing pattern for a normal figure proportion, to me a telltale sign the jacket pattern was not a tailor made for him.

Exactly.

They just scaled it up. It's not a conscious shape for his body or workout regimen.

 

[newtojackets]

I’ll focus on US makers. What details? GW and LW pay attention to the minutiae like very few do. Or pattern details like the ones by Vanson, Bates, JL, even LW, that surpass the fetishized Japanese companies. Japan does have its Vanson equivalents that get no love here.

This convo pops up 2-3x per year. Japanese jackets are not better. Some like them more, imo that is all.

Out of curiosity, what are the Japanese vanson equivalents?

 

[JMax]

I was thinking Kadoya when I posted. I’ve always liked their jackets. There are others. Tanaka book mentions Kushitani.

 

[Aloysius]

Out of curiosity, what are the Japanese vanson equivalents?

There’s a MTO-only store that makes jackets, boots, and leathers targeted at motorcyclists. Someone here got boots from them. I’ve forgotten the name but they’re very high quality.

 

[newtojackets]

There’s a MTO-only store that makes jackets, boots, and leathers targeted at motorcyclists. Someone here got boots from them. I’ve forgotten the name but they’re very high quality.

Tenjin works?

 

[Aloysius]

Tenjin works?

No.

 

[Marc mndt]

Fourspeed leathers

 

[Aloysius]

Fourspeed leathers

That’s the one. I remembered there was a four in the name but that was it.

 

[Observe]

That’s the one. I remembered there was a four in the name but that was it.

They do the Iron Heart leather jackets as well.