Esquire’s Complete Golden Age Illustrations:

[Fading Fast]

That is a man wearing a bold suit with confidence.

I never had a shoe rack and no self-respecting man who likes clothes has that much free space between his suits in his closet, but the scene still captures a look and feel we're all experienced with. I've worked from home since 2012 and, combined with biz casual and all casual, I (sadly) hardly ever wear a suit now, but prior to 2012, like many of us, my day started pretty much like this (sans the military suit of course).

This thread is the next best thing to time travel.

Under October 1943, I love the “Campaign Colors”. Did that take off, even briefly? It kind of reminds me of ties sporting regimental colors. I had one once upon a time (can’t even remember which regiment it was.) Anyway, the entire time I owned the tie, it never elicited one comment; not one. No one had any idea. One day in frustration I mentioned to a coworker that it was a regimental tie; he quickly jumped to the conclusion that I was eccentric. I learned something that day... that some things are better not to mention!

Very funny. Like you, I learned that a lot of the little nuances, quirks or "special finds" in clothing that mean so much to us here, have absolutely no currency with most people. That's one of the beautiful things about FL and this thread - those passionate about these things can find each other.

 

[Fastuni]

So in 1944 cuffed trousers make their silent return.

 

[Flanderian]

This thread is the next best thing to time travel.

Under October 1943, I love the “Campaign Colors”. Did that take off, even briefly? It kind of reminds me of ties sporting regimental colors. I had one once upon a time (can’t even remember which regiment it was.) Anyway, the entire time I owned the tie, it never elicited one comment; not one. No one had any idea. One day in frustration I mentioned to a coworker that it was a regimental tie; he quickly jumped to the conclusion that I was eccentric. I learned something that day... that some things are better not to mention!

I think that' a very interesting question. I haven't any specific information concerning whether they were ever officially authorized. Makers and retailers of the era often used rather blatant tie-in's to merchandise their goods, so it could simply be that.

However, I have seen ties and other merchandise made up in the colors of specific campaign ribbons associated with specific service medals. And while I can't find them at the moment, I believe I recall seeing ties in the U.S. ribbon colors for Vietnam, Iraq and Afghanistan. Whether they were officially authorized, or simply borrowed by makers/retailers, I do not know.

 

[Flanderian]

That is a man wearing a bold suit with confidence.
View attachment 273006


I never had a shoe rack and no self-respecting man who likes clothes has that much free space between his suits in his closet, but the scene still captures a look and feel we're all experienced with. I've worked from home since 2012 and, combined with biz casual and all casual, I (sadly) hardly ever wear a suit now, but prior to 2012, like many of us, my day started pretty much like this (sans the military suit of course).
View attachment 273004

Very funny. Like you, I learned that a lot of the little nuances, quirks or "special finds" in clothing that mean so much to us here, have absolutely no currency with most people. That's one of the beautiful things about FL and this thread - those passionate about these things can find each other.

In the era depicted most men had fewer clothes. But suits also tended to wear longer due to heavier cloth, so it wasn't uncommon for a who wore suits regularly to have a few, but other older one in reserve. A man might buy 1 new suit a year.

So in 1944 cuffed trousers make their silent return.

Sharp eyes! I'm not sure the war production policies were ever religiously followed. I think I recall occasionally seeing illustrations and photos of American men during WWII with cuffs, though it is reasonable to think the trousers' may have been made before the policy.

I do know that by the time I came along in the late '40's, cuffs were once again a near universal norm, and remained so until the early '60's.

 

[Flanderian]

Here are the March 1944 illustrations.

 

[Fastuni]

I paid attention to this detail on all illustrations dating since the WPB announcement. I noticed absolutely no cuffs until January 1944. So it seems the illustrators were (instructed to be) specific about that detail. Would be strange therefore that the reappearance of cuffs was merely artistic inattention.

 

[Flanderian]

I paid attention to this detail on all illustrations dating since the WPB announcement. I noticed absolutely no cuffs until January 1944. So it seems the illustrators were (instructed to be) specific about that detail. Would ve strange therefore that the reappearance of cuffs was merely artistic inattention.

No, I'm sure you're correct, and it accurately must reflect a change in policy.

If my memory of earlier photos/illustrations is accurate (Always highly questionable! ) I would suspect it depicted trousers made prior to the WPB regulations.

 

[Fastuni]

Yes this was certainly the case with the photopage of the best dressed students. It was mentioned specifically that some of the clothes were purchased before WPB rules.

 

[Will Zach]

It was already mentioned that these men look giant, while in reality the height of average US male in 1930s was 5'8".

 

[Flanderian]

These are Esquire's April 1944 illustrations.

 

[Flanderian]

April 1944 concluded:

And on an urbane note, we have a nice illustration of the stroller/Stresemann/semi-formal dress.

(An aside: I note politicians, and others, beginning to return to the PS. My favorite presentation for a cotton or linen PS's is 3 points up, as artfully presented here in its lack of rigid uniformity. Precise peaks result in an appearance reminiscent of those once sold consisting of a bit of cloth sewn and stapled onto cardboard in absolute perfection.)

Progressing to business wear -

And some nice ties to wear with it.

To the decidedly casual/sports mode.

And finally, for the service man.

 

[Fastuni]

The last page at #370 (spring headwear tra la la) shows some unusually hairy necks.
Certainly many gentleman had longer hair now and then, as they weren't at the barber/hairdresser daily, but it strikes me as unusual because such illustrations usually depict an ideal state of affairs, also hairwise. ;-)

 

[Tiki Tom]

March 1944, page 120. Good heavens, yes. It takes a guy with a lot of confidence (and the right build) to attempt a plaid double breasted suit. I don’t think I would dare.

Mentally cataloging my current suits, I’m guessing that probably a third of them (or less) have cuffed trousers. Will try to up that percentage as things move forward.

Also March 1944: I love the clipper illustration. Absolutely love the Pan Am Clipper era. However, I note in the text how they go on about how the planes were filled with urgent Ranking military Travelers and how a civilian had to have pretty important work to get a seat... What exactly is in that briefcase? He must be a high VIP indeed; because they allowed him to reserve an additional premium seat for his svelte, leggy, lady friend. (Is she a movie star?) It adds to the way he oozes power and importance, I guess.

 

[Tiki Tom]

 

[Flanderian]

The last page at #370 (spring headwear tra la la) shows some unusually hairy necks.
Certainly many gentleman had longer hair now and then, as they weren't at the barber/hairdresser daily, but it strikes me as unusual because such illustrations usually depict an ideal state of affairs, also hairwise. ;-)

An interesting observation that I had to go back and check. I suspect you're referring largely to the bottom illustrations depicting hats.

My own personal remembered experience begins about 10 years later, and comparing what I saw worn, and haircuts from films and photos of the period, I'd say the amount of hair above the collar isn't unrepresentative of some men.

While some version of the G.I. haircuts that originated in WWI were still perhaps most common, there was a good deal of regional variation, differing preferences among men, and abilities among barbers. Disregarding outlier haircuts, the stereotype of the skilled Italian, or Italian American barber often had a basis in fact. And they, at best, might be skilled at delivering multiple varieties based upon the client's preference. While not approaching the Fonz type haircuts of the later '50's, or blow dried '70's hair, neatly trimmed and close, but not scalped hair on the back of necks was not uncommon.

March 1944, page 120. Good heavens, yes. It takes a guy with a lot of confidence (and the right build) to attempt a plaid double breasted suit. I don’t think I would dare.

Mentally cataloging my current suits, I’m guessing that probably a third of them (or less) have cuffed trousers. Will try to up that percentage as things move forward.

Also March 1944: I love the clipper illustration. Absolutely love the Pan Am Clipper era. However, I note in the text how they go on about how the planes were filled with urgent Ranking military Travelers and how a civilian had to have pretty important work to get a seat... What exactly is in that briefcase? He must be a high VIP indeed; because they allowed him to reserve an additional premium seat for his svelte, leggy, lady friend. (Is she a movie star?) It adds to the way he oozes power and importance, I guess.

Agree in general concerning plaid suits, but as a larger, and square built man, I find there is an exception; the plaid commonly know as glen plaid, glen check or Prince of Wales when precisely geometric, moderate contrast and in the right scale can actually aid proportion. I've never worked out all the reasons why, but have found it can be among the most flattering for the less than svelte.

Once had a tailor. Had him cut a 4 button DB of summer weight Scabal glen plaid cloth that seemed to be favorably regarded.

Great clip!

Thanks for posting.

 

[Flanderian]

These are Esquire's May 1945 illustrations.

 

[Flanderian]

Esquire, June 1944.

 

[Flanderian]

BTW: I was sufficiently fond of the ensemble depicted in the second illustration down in the post above, to deliberately emulate its essential aesthetic. Thought the results enjoyable!

 

[Fading Fast]

BTW: I was sufficiently fond of the ensemble depicted in the second illustration down in the post above, to deliberately emulate its essential aesthetic. Thought the results enjoyable!

A wonderful outfit and very Flanderian.


First time I remember hearing of this brand:

 

[Tiki Tom]

Not sure that slogan would fly today.