Want to buy or sell something? Check the classifieds
  • The Fedora Lounge is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Esquire’s Complete Golden Age Illustrations:

Tiki Tom

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,397
Location
Oahu, North Polynesia
Ah. Where to start? The brilliant illustrations continue.

Thanks for the Thin Man images. In addition to the clothes, I love the pencil-thin mustache. That’s not something you see anymore. Wish I could pull that off.

What is with those chair-on-a-Walking-stick things? They look ridiculous and unstable as hell. Glad they went the way of the dodo bird. Just no.

1941. Even though the U.S. is not in the war yet, the mood seems to be shifting. I see that uniforms are featured in both April and May. Imagine a modern men’s magazine displaying uniforms as a fashion statement. Ha! Never happen. In May I did find it interesting that the discerning man could legitimately get his perfectly tailored uniforms from Brooks Brothers. Ha again! When I was in the army, my uniforms (even the dress uniform) were strictly supplied by Uncle Sam. Can West Pointers still opt for BB uniforms, I wonder?
 
Messages
17,215
Location
New York City
Great photos of great clothes, thanks for posting!

While many aspects of this clothing stands out, it's the cut and fit which most delights me. So precise, but relaxed and flowing at the same time. Relaxed elegance. I'd wear it in a heartbeat.

The '30s, for those with money, got so much right about the basic suit-tie-collared-shirt construct that everything afterwards (until the late '60s) was usually just a small step forward or backwards as the '30s already advanced the ball well down field.
 

Flanderian

Practically Family
Messages
833
Location
Flanders, NJ, USA
Ah. Where to start? The brilliant illustrations continue.

Thanks for the Thin Man images. In addition to the clothes, I love the pencil-thin mustache. That’s not something you see anymore. Wish I could pull that off.

What is with those chair-on-a-Walking-stick things? They look ridiculous and unstable as hell. Glad they went the way of the dodo bird. Just no.

1941. Even though the U.S. is not in the war yet, the mood seems to be shifting. I see that uniforms are featured in both April and May. Imagine a modern men’s magazine displaying uniforms as a fashion statement. Ha! Never happen. In May I did find it interesting that the discerning man could legitimately get his perfectly tailored uniforms from Brooks Brothers. Ha again! When I was in the army, my uniforms (even the dress uniform) were strictly supplied by Uncle Sam. Can West Pointers still opt for BB uniforms, I wonder?

I'm delighted you're enjoying the classic Esquire illustrations, they're a significant pleasure to me.

Though I'm afraid the cane stool is with us yet, and in a variety of forms, such as the one below, and also the shooting/golf stick with a leather hammock formed by opening the handle.


Cane stool01.jpg



I know that originally in the U.S. military a point of distinction between officers and the enlisted was that officers had to purchase their own uniforms. And I believe it was still so at the time of the Brooks ad. During my time of service 50 years ago I think it was certainly still an option, if not a requirement for officers in the U.S.A.F. And while little known, and I doubt rarely if ever done, even enlisted men to could wear any uniform items that were not issued, as long as those items fully conformed to regulation. And at the end of my enlistment I wore a pair of civilian low quarters with my fatigues as with only a few months remaining I didn't wish to purchase any more atrocious military issue footwear! :eek:

The '30s, for those with money, got so much right about the basic suit-tie-collared-shirt construct that everything afterwards (until the late '60s) was usually just a small step forward or backwards as the '30s already advanced the ball well down field.

Very much so, I think.
 
Last edited:
Messages
17,215
Location
New York City
I'm the first to wish we dressed nicer than we do today, but maybe the '30s was a bit overboard if this was what you needed for a two-day weekend. Holy Smokes that's a lot of clothes for two days. And there's no way on earth it's all fitting in that one bag (and not coming out a wrinkled mess).
Esq084108.jpg
 

Flanderian

Practically Family
Messages
833
Location
Flanders, NJ, USA
I'm the first to wish we dressed nicer than we do today, but maybe the '30s was a bit overboard if this was what you needed for a two-day weekend. Holy Smokes that's a lot of clothes for two days. And there's no way on earth it's all fitting in that one bag (and not coming out a wrinkled mess).
View attachment 268499

And the kitchen sink! ;)

Esquire of that era was still very much a magazine, like Playboy later, that depicted an aspirational lifestyle. But your observation brings to mind my own trials with packing; I.e., either too much, or a change of underwear and a toothbrush! :D
 

Flanderian

Practically Family
Messages
833
Location
Flanders, NJ, USA
Ah. Where to start? The brilliant illustrations continue.

Thanks for the Thin Man images. In addition to the clothes, I love the pencil-thin mustache. That’s not something you see anymore. Wish I could pull that off.

What is with those chair-on-a-Walking-stick things? They look ridiculous and unstable as hell. Glad they went the way of the dodo bird. Just no.

1941. Even though the U.S. is not in the war yet, the mood seems to be shifting. I see that uniforms are featured in both April and May. Imagine a modern men’s magazine displaying uniforms as a fashion statement. Ha! Never happen. In May I did find it interesting that the discerning man could legitimately get his perfectly tailored uniforms from Brooks Brothers. Ha again! When I was in the army, my uniforms (even the dress uniform) were strictly supplied by Uncle Sam. Can West Pointers still opt for BB uniforms, I wonder?

Just happened upon the photo below, and was reminded of our conversation. A very sharply tailored General Eisenhower is wearing a uniform I sincerely doubt is other than made for him. I also take pleasure in his monk strap low quarters, a favorite style of mine, and a variety that was actually a standard army uniform shoe at the time.


Eisenhower.jpg
 
Messages
17,215
Location
New York City
And the kitchen sink! ;)

Esquire of that era was still very much a magazine, like Playboy later, that depicted an aspirational lifestyle. But your observation brings to mind my own trials with packing; I.e., either too much, or a change of underwear and a toothbrush! :D

I am an insane minimalist when it comes to packing. One of the reason I so like the Ivy style of dress is that most things go with most other things and most things can span the distance from casual to basic dress-up. Hence, for example, a pair of khakis and a OCBD can take you from a daytime walk around a town, a house tour or a ball game to, with a sport coat and tie added, dinner out at all but the fanciest restaurant. Ditto, grey sweater, bucks or pennies and on and on. I've done carryon for a full week away and have used a medium sized briefcase for overnight.
 

le.gentleman

Familiar Face
Messages
75
Location
Minneapolis, MN
@Flanderian Fantastic collection Flanderian! Do you also have all the Apparel Arts magazines? They published the same illustrations just earlier for the trade, and I also found there were more illustrations than actually later appeared in Esquire...
 

Flanderian

Practically Family
Messages
833
Location
Flanders, NJ, USA
I am an insane minimalist when it comes to packing. One of the reason I so like the Ivy style of dress is that most things go with most other things and most things can span the distance from casual to basic dress-up. Hence, for example, a pair of khakis and a OCBD can take you from a daytime walk around a town, a house tour or a ball game to, with a sport coat and tie added, dinner out at all but the fanciest restaurant. Ditto, grey sweater, bucks or pennies and on and on. I've done carryon for a full week away and have used a medium sized briefcase for overnight.

Rather than insane, I'd describe your approach as the most reasonable. Certainly, classic TNSIL offers a myriad of different combinations for any, like yourself, possessed of sufficient skill.
 

Tiki Tom

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,397
Location
Oahu, North Polynesia
Exactly so, Fading Fast. And I can pack for a weekend in ten minutes.

I love the Going Back to School “Party” depiction above. What a strange mismatched array of instruments. At first I thought this was the artists attempt at humor. But now I’m thinking how here in Austria —-today!—- almost everyone can play an instrument. I wonder if it was also that way in the States a couple of generations ago (at least in a certain social class.)

Love that photo of Ike... but don’t know what to make of his socks. (From these pages, I’m picking up that socks were a big deal back in those days! )

Also, way up, that photo of the Duke of Windsor stopped me in my tracks. Talk about making impeccable look effortless.

Finally, in September, look at the size of that automobile! When I was a child, I swear that my father owned one that big.
 

Flanderian

Practically Family
Messages
833
Location
Flanders, NJ, USA
@Flanderian Fantastic collection Flanderian! Do you also have all the Apparel Arts magazines? They published the same illustrations just earlier for the trade, and I also found there were more illustrations than actually later appeared in Esquire...

Thank you! No, sorry, don't have any hardcopy of complete AA, only images gleaned on-line over the years. But have noted, as yourself, that all Esquire fashion plates first appeared in AA, but not all AA plates necessarily made it to Esquire, for example, this from AA April-May 1941 -


AA_April-May-41.jpg
 
Last edited:

Flanderian

Practically Family
Messages
833
Location
Flanders, NJ, USA
Exactly so, Fading Fast. And I can pack for a weekend in ten minutes.

I love the Going Back to School “Party” depiction above. What a strange mismatched array of instruments. At first I thought this was the artists attempt at humor. But now I’m thinking how here in Austria —-today!—- almost everyone can play an instrument. I wonder if it was also that way in the States a couple of generations ago (at least in a certain social class.)

Love that photo of Ike... but don’t know what to make of his socks. (From these pages, I’m picking up that socks were a big deal back in those days! )

Also, way up, that photo of the Duke of Windsor stopped me in my tracks. Talk about making impeccable look effortless.

Finally, in September, look at the size of that automobile! When I was a child, I swear that my father owned one that big.

If Ike's socks aren't silk, I'll eat my hat! (Well . . . , maybe someone else's. :rolleyes:) I guess it must have been rescued from being made into parachutes.

I'll pass along your complements to HRH's valet! ;)
 
Last edited:
Messages
17,215
Location
New York City
It's a shame that Fellows tucked this suit under a coat as its material and pattern look fantastic.
Esq114101.jpg



While, individually, the sweaters and socks look nice in the "sweater-and-socks sets" (half way down on the right), it's too matchy-matchy for me. I do like the contrast collar and cuffs on the front sweater though.
Esq124103.jpg
 

Forum statistics

Threads
109,248
Messages
3,077,255
Members
54,183
Latest member
UrbanGraveDave
Top