ELMC Californian

[tmitchell59]

Smell is an odd thing. I've had jackets I haven't cared for the smell of when they arrived, but then grew on me over time. The best smelling jacket I've ever owned, oddly, was a Gibson Barnes G-1 I had a few years ago. It had a very chemical smell to it, but for some reason I really gravitated towards it.

I really like the jackets you've picked up lately. Especially those two Buzz coats and this ELMC. I hope you hang onto them. You should have kept that French horsehide Windward though! But you've pretty much made it to jacket heaven I think.

The beautiful French HH Aero Winward was recently on ebay. It was a too nice to wear, I had a Alexander I felt the same about. I thought the Aero was such a unique jacket, but no one was hot after it.

A chemical smell might be just what I would call the ELMC, just such a contrast to the very sweet smell of the BKs. The Cali smell is not that strong, easy to live with.

The Buzz coats I just don't count in regular ways,they are just something different. The BK Dodger is leaning to a favorite all around throw on comfortable jacket. I own it. I don't always "own" them.

I would love to try a GW Californian. I don't know that I have had a shot at one in my size, they don't appear often. I saw ELC recently on ebay in the Havana. It brought quite a good deal of money and had some issues to the finish I could not quite grasp.

These "new breed" leathers are really sweeping around, keeps you interested.

I've got to read up on this jacket again. seems they did some sort of aging process? The right sleeve elbow really has a worn vintage look. I've got some vintage jackets I will picture this one with.

 

[nick123]

The beautiful French HH Aero Winward was recently on ebay. It was a too nice to wear, I had a Alexander I felt the same about. I thought the Aero was such a unique jacket, but no one was hot after it.

A chemical smell might be just what I would call the ELMC, just such a contrast to the very sweet smell of the BKs. The Cali smell is not that strong, easy to live with.

The Buzz coats I just don't count in regular ways,they are just something different. The BK Dodger is leaning to a favorite all around throw on comfortable jacket. I own it. I don't always "own" them.

I would love to try a GW Californian. I don't know that I have had a shot at one in my size, they don't appear often. I saw ELC recently on ebay in the Havana. It brought quite a good deal of money and had some issues to the finish I could not quite grasp.

These "new breed" leathers are really sweeping around, keeps you interested.

I've got to read up on this jacket again. seems they did some sort of aging process? The right sleeve elbow really has a worn vintage look. I've got some vintage jackets I will picture this one with.

Did I read that they did some sort of pre-sleeve creasing process on the ELMCs? I don't know if I remember that correctly, but I think it was mentioned in one of the recent HPA threads. I kind of had mixed thoughts about a pre-aged garment (I'm not crazy on sleeve creasing, totally in the minority there) but your finished example looks really good and not too overdone.

 

[58panheadfan]

I like the position on chain ball breast zipper a lot, closed on outside! Btw: nice pick up...

 

[pauleway]

That is one nice jacket. The only thing I do not like is their Ball+Chain zip closer. Aero's style B+L close is how they should have gone! (JMHO)[huh]

 

[dudewuttheheck]

Really gorgeous jacket, there. Probably my favorite of all Eastman designs.

 

[Carlos840]

I just received my black californian, and sent it straight back to Eastman!

It had snags in the lining, water stains on the lining, missing stitches here and there.
Overall, considering they sell for £825 it felt like a horrible deal, maybe i received a friday afternoon jacket, maybe the quality control missed it, whatever it was it wasn't a good jacket.
I don't know what is going to be done about it, will see if they offer a remake, or just a refund.

 

[Jägernaut]

Did you buy it through HPA?

 

[Carlos840]

Did you buy it through HPA?

No, straight from ELMC

 

[Fanch]

Carlos, you have been the recipient of a fair amount of adversity, first the AL CR and now this one. However AL made good with a nice remake and suspect ELC will too. The pictures I have seen of the ELC Californian look great. Keep us in the loop.

 

[Sloan1874]

I just received my black californian, and sent it straight back to Eastman!

It had snags in the lining, water stains on the lining, missing stitches here and there.
Overall, considering they sell for £825 it felt like a horrible deal, maybe i received a friday afternoon jacket, maybe the quality control missed it, whatever it was it wasn't a good jacket.
I don't know what is going to be done about it, will see if they offer a remake, or just a refund.

That's just bizarre. Don't people QC nowadays?

 

[Carlos840]

That's just bizarre. Don't people QC nowadays?

I know right!

The snag were so obvious, right in the middle of the back, 15cm under the tags, pea sized, and another one in the armpit.
You literally could not miss it as soon as you opened the jacket... I have no idea how it wasn't spotted by whoever put the lining in...
The stitches needed a more careful eye, but there were a couple places on the lapel, close to the collar that had messed up stitches. ie holes but no thread, and a pretty shoddy knot where the thread had been snapped or where they reached the end of the bobbin.
Not something you want in such a visible area.

If this jacket was a sales item and £300 i wouldn't care, but at £825, i'm expecting as close to perfect as humanly possible!

 

[Sloan1874]

In no way an unreasonable request!

 

[HPA Rep]

Did I read that they did some sort of pre-sleeve creasing process on the ELMCs? I don't know if I remember that correctly, but I think it was mentioned in one of the recent HPA threads. I kind of had mixed thoughts about a pre-aged garment (I'm not crazy on sleeve creasing, totally in the minority there) but your finished example looks really good and not too overdone.

The sleeve creasing is kept on the mild side of the scale, which varies a bit from jacket to jacket; overall, I'd say it's about what you'd expect after a month of regular use. The example here is used, so how much more creasing is a result of the prior owner is hard to gauge, but it's certainly more than she it was new.

When Eastman first told me about ELMC line and how they would be creased on the sleeves for a less-than-new look out of the box, I wasn't thrilled, but after seeing dozens of the various jackets now and owning two myself, I not only like it quite a bit, but I prefer it. The jackets are just more comfy immediately and you don't look as if you are wearing a squeaky-new jacket, which I prefer.

I like trying new things and this is one that isn't overt and which worked out well, in my opinion and that of those who are happy owning one, but it's also not for everyone. But since so many members here seem to like buying jackets that are actually previously owned and worn by others, something which I'm not personally very fond of, I'd think this light aging that is performed in a very natural fashion wouldn't be an issue.

 

[HPA Rep]

Did you buy it through HPA?

This member lives in the UK, so there'd be no advantage to buy from us and we don't sell Eastman goods to the UK for the same obvious reasons; however, when we take delivery of the new ELMC Californians in the HPA-only special long fittings for fall 2015, we'll be selling these to anyone who wants one no matter if it's the UK.

 

[HPA Rep]

Such qualitative issues are bound to happen, unfortunately, even to the best, but they should always reflect the exception and part of the vast, overwhelming minority of goods made. Good QC is a bit like proofreading and editing your own writing, which is something not easily done and often times should be performed in stages by others to help catch the chaff.

HPA performs rigorous QC on everything we receive from our suppliers, which acts as yet another layer of QC that's in addition to what the manufacturers apply. Though we don't see many issues due to working with high-end suppliers, we still do see and stop select items from ever getting into customer hands. And, regrettably, there will always be some item(s) that even we miss or that aren't problematic until a brief period of use brings out the flaw.

It is indeed a darn shame and embarrassing that this new jacket was shipped by Eastman in the condition described; clearly someone was asleep at the wheel. I have every confidence Eastman will do what is needed to satisfy the customer here.

Perfection is a myth, but it's a lofty goal I like aspiring to and we work toward constant betterment every day.

 

[Carlos840]

Just got a message from Rob, they are making me a new jacket! Can't wait...

 

[Monitor]

Carlos, I think that LL Dominator of yours raised the perfection bar way too high up. I doubt I'd be looking for another jacket after that one.

I'm curious, if you don't mind sharing; was there an explanation for the condition in which the jacket reached you?

 

[Carlos840]

Carlos, I think that LL Dominator of yours raised the perfection bar way too high up. I doubt I'd be looking for another jacket after that one.

I'm curious, if you don't mind sharing; was there an explanation for the condition in which the jacket reached you?

No explanation, just a "we want you to be 100% happy with your jacket and will start again from scratch"

Honestly, i don't know if i am being overly demanding. I am pretty sure most people wouldn't have noticed most of these things, but they bother me.
On one hand i feel a little bit bad, cause none of these things were a huge deal, on the other hand if a £625 Lewis Leathers can be stitch perfect, shouldn't a £825 ELMC be at least as good?
Saying that, you are right about Lewis Leathers, you could go over this jacket with a microscope and not find a dodgy stitch... It is the cleanest jacket i own.

Funnily enough, this jacket was finished on a friday, so maybe it was really a case of "i just want to get this done and go to the pub!"
Anyway, they offered me a remake without hesitation, and i am confident all will be good in the end.

 

[Monitor]

Whenever I'm unsure if I'm being too fussy and demanding, I always think of it this way; If I spotted some sort of issues on the jacket I like that's hanging in a store, would I still buy it, or would I look for one without the 'defect'.

My post above perhaps came off the wrong way - I am just so overly impressed with how perfect your LL is, but don't worry about it; what you've described sounds pretty horrible to me. I haven't had a Made in India/Pakistan cheapo with the sort of issues you've described and no doubt I would demand a remake if I received a brand new jacket I paid a truckload of money for that had stains and tears.

 

[ProteinNerd]

Whenever I'm unsure if I'm being too fussy and demanding, I always think of it this way; If I spotted some sort of issues on the jacket I like that's hanging in a store, would I still buy it, or would I look for one without the 'defect'.

I was thinking this myself.