Double Helix Works?

[58panheadfan]

The other one was me on instagram. As mentioned I currently like the semi aniline HH leather from nitta a bit more than the the shinki on my rmc j24 and find it equal to my FW mulholland. To be honest the difference in build quality is even bigger. The stitching on my deviant is far more accurate with less flaws compared to the RMC. Certainly this might not be the way in general but at least it’s valid for my jackets. Totally agree with Marc that DH is highly unrated. I can only suggest to give them a try as I think you get a lot of jacket for your money. This is my jacket which I bought used couple of weeks ago. View attachment 566566

Ha ha, @Momein it's a small world... thanks for chiming in and your explantion! Nice looking jacket btw.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Hugging the Curve, stock size 44, black semi aniline horsehide

The measurements on the websit is based on the pulled measuring method.

What I think about this jacket:

1) Leather - is very thick, as thick as my heavyweight CXL FQHH, so at least 3.5oz or 1.5mm. But is as soft as the 3oz 1.2mm RMC Shinki. Feels waxy to the hand. I've never had a horsehide like this. I was expecting same as the other Tokyo brands but this stands out on its own. The hide is really nice.

Compared to the RMC Steinbeck half belt, steinbeck on top, hugging on bottom

2) Construction - can't complain, typical Japanese high end finishing. Same type of lining construction as RMC. The Hugging has an inside pocket, the RMC don't.

3) Fit - very, very similar to the RMC again. A bit longer in the front, made for untucked shirts. The forearm has a taper and can feel tight. The RMC fit pics here:

All the McCoys

I haven't really paid that much attention to RMC as a jacket maker, as I thought they mostly did military aviator reproductions, and I'm more of a motorcycle and car coat kind of guy, and they're very expensive, even used. I recently noticed a gorgeous two-tone MC jacket on yahoo japan, but too...

www.thefedoralounge.com

4) Price - the best part of this jacket. MSRP ¥173,800. With the two discounts code running everyweek on Rakuten, this jacket came in at ¥160,110, that's about £900, or $1,200. And as far as I can see, all the bigger sizes are the same prices, and they go up to 48, fits aquaman. The only other brand that consistently have bigger sizes is Y'2, all the rest of the Japanese brands don't usually stock anything over 42 in Japan.

One major negative, is the zipper. I almost broke the Hookless just by trying on. Some of them can be very finicky. I would say it's time for all repros to switch to ykk. It's fun to have a different zip, until it breaks, and replacement cost 150+, on top of an already expensive jacket.

That's all I've got. If you are shopping in this budget range or come across this jacket on the used market, it's worth to take a look.

 

[58panheadfan]

DH Frisco, I really like the „vagina“ back

 

[Canuck Panda]

Great jacket. Congrats. How’s the brown horsehide? Is it same feel as the black one but brown? Or is it a totally different hide?

 

[Marc mndt]

Great jacket. Congrats. How’s the brown horsehide? Is it same feel as the black one but brown? Or is it a totally different hide?

Totally different hide. The black ones I handled were all pigment dyed with a brown core. This brown hh is naked full aniline if I remember correctly, it feels slightly waxy to the touch. Will probably pick up lots of patina.

 

[58panheadfan]

Great jacket. Congrats. How’s the brown horsehide? Is it same feel as the black one but brown? Or is it a totally different hide?

First of all thank you for your review about your hugging the curve DH. Nice jacket too, one of my favs on you.

About your question: The black 1930's classic one is semi aniline tea core HH the brown frisco is full aniline oiled wax HH. The frisco feels softer and has also a softer, warmer haptic. It developed a nice used finish in no time with nice wrinkles on sleeves. The 1930's classic has a colder and more "painted" feel on top coat due the semi aniline finish. As @Marc mndt mentioned the frisco has a slightly waxy touch.

Btw: I have folded the side panels on both jackets inwards and hammered the bottom fold a bit to hold it in place. It gives the jacket a nicer leaner side fit / optic this way for my liking.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Yeah most of the jackets marketed as the 1930s cutting are only a drop 2 inch in the torso. I think most guys here would prefer at least a drop 4 inch for trimmer fit at the waist. I don’t mind the drop 2 fits until it gets into the longer lengths as they do look more loose when it’s longer. This is my biggest thing about grabbing one of the leather deck jacket, they’re longer, coat length and most likely only two drop in the torso, and if I go down a size to fit trimmer I ended up not wearing it but it might bag out at the bigger size. Ugh…. That olive horsehide is calling me like a siren, and I’m leaning towards the one with a big more meat…

The oil brown hide looks nice. So is the aviator design. I’ve overlooked this brand for the longest time. It’s really nice. The only other thing I wanna add is the forearm are slim on these guys, and they just use normal cotton drill to line the sleeves. versus say the Rainbow Country or Freewheelers who also have slim forearm sleeves but they line them with the more comfortable flannel. The comfort feel is very noticeable with t shirt. I line all my Aero CXL sleeves in moleskin to copy the RC and FW, they’re more comfortable with bare skin and not bad with dress shirts either. Just nitpicking here. The leather shells on the Double Helix is done as good as all the top brands imo.

stiffer cotton drill used on DH sleeve

softer flannel used in FW and RC jackets

 

[58panheadfan]

Personally, I don't mind the slightly narrower forearm. In my opinion, the upper part of the sleeves is very comfortable and wider than e.g. cut on my FW jackets. The lining in the sleeves is a matter of taste. Personally, I prefer a slightly thinner fabric, like DH makes. The flannel lining on the FW is very nice, but it's a bit too bulky for me. Your comment about the delicate zippers is correct, these zippers are not easy to handle. But here too, I really like the smaller more elegant zippers in these styles of jackets. As you mentioned, there is absolutely nothing to complain about in terms of quality and workmanship. High end japan made.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Yeah theres good room in the upper shoulder sleeve area. Bigger than some Japanese brands for sure. I really like that for mobility.

For selfish reasons I hope the brand don’t break out too fast so the prices holds for another year for me to collect a few more pieces. Quality is top notch and I’m getting that leather deck jacket next, although my fomo mind says the Buco looking jacket first, just in case they raise the prices too fast on that one.

9” across is good room for size 44 hugging Curve.

 

[jr30]

I bought my first Double Helix and love it.
>>> You can find a review of the jacket here <<<

 

[58panheadfan]

For a reason I can't really explain, I love jackets with a slight A-shape like this DH or my FW Brakeman. Maybe it has something to do with the fact this cut stands out from the crowd and otherwise I have a V-body shape...

Edit: Of course there is some accentuations on lower section by wearing a full cut jean with quite some hip-flare a Fullcount 0105.

 

[TartuWolf]

@58panheadfan
Love your Breakman, for me that is what I associate mostly with you, kina like it's your signature.
And I love the new "heads up" and "standing proud" style of your photos instead of the "head down" style.

 

[58panheadfan]

I'm always delighted to see what miracle "wear your leather jacket in rainy weather treatment" does to veg tan leather jackets.

 

[bigmanbigtruck]

Hugging the Curve, stock size 44, black semi aniline horsehide

View attachment 570189 View attachment 570190 View attachment 570191 View attachment 570192 View attachment 570193 View attachment 570194

The measurements on the websit is based on the pulled measuring method.
View attachment 570195 View attachment 570196

What I think about this jacket:

1) Leather - is very thick, as thick as my heavyweight CXL FQHH, so at least 3.5oz or 1.5mm. But is as soft as the 3oz 1.2mm RMC Shinki. Feels waxy to the hand. I've never had a horsehide like this. I was expecting same as the other Tokyo brands but this stands out on its own. The hide is really nice.

Compared to the RMC Steinbeck half belt, steinbeck on top, hugging on bottom
View attachment 570197

2) Construction - can't complain, typical Japanese high end finishing. Same type of lining construction as RMC. The Hugging has an inside pocket, the RMC don't.

3) Fit - very, very similar to the RMC again. A bit longer in the front, made for untucked shirts. The forearm has a taper and can feel tight. The RMC fit pics here:

http://[URL]https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/all-the-mccoys.97816/post-3051173

[/URL]

4) Price - the best part of this jacket. MSRP ¥173,800. With the two discounts code running everyweek on Rakuten, this jacket came in at ¥160,110, that's about £900, or $1,200. And as far as I can see, all the bigger sizes are the same prices, and they go up to 48, fits aquaman. The only other brand that consistently have bigger sizes is Y'2, all the rest of the Japanese brands don't usually stock anything over 42 in Japan.

One major negative, is the zipper. I almost broke the Hookless just by trying on. Some of them can be very finicky. I would say it's time for all repros to switch to ykk. It's fun to have a different zip, until it breaks, and replacement cost 150+, on top of an already expensive jacket.

That's all I've got. If you are shopping in this budget range or come across this jacket on the used market, it's worth to take a look.

Nice! Got any pics with the waist cinched up?

 

[Canuck Panda]

Nice! Got any pics with the waist cinched up?

The bottom cinch jackets don't work that well with the cinch pulled in, especially when the torso is only drop 2" chest to hem and length is longer like half belt length. The bottom cinch will create a belly in the front and some balloon in the mid back. On these boxy cuts it's either take it for what it is or find one with more taper, like the Mobster, but that jacket is also one inch shorter, if its same length as the DH then it would too have the same issue, even it's a drop 4" chest to hem. Or go to a half belt back where the cinch is in the middle. Half belts are really the fit king, it looks good in fit. Another option is to go full custom and specify torso width everywhere, but it's a bit tricky down that route too...

What Jacket Are You Wearing Today?

Gray Schott Perfecto Wow! El Tiburon.

www.thefedoralounge.com

All the McCoys

I haven't really paid that much attention to RMC as a jacket maker, as I thought they mostly did military aviator reproductions, and I'm more of a motorcycle and car coat kind of guy, and they're very expensive, even used. I recently noticed a gorgeous two-tone MC jacket on yahoo japan, but too...

www.thefedoralounge.com

 

[bigmanbigtruck]

View attachment 601133
The bottom cinch jackets don't work that well with the cinch pulled in, especially when the torso is only drop 2" chest to hem and length is longer like half belt length. The bottom cinch will create a belly in the front and some balloon in the mid back. On these boxy cuts it's either take it for what it is or find one with more taper, like the Mobster, but that jacket is also one inch shorter, if its same length as the DH then it would too have the same issue, even it's a drop 4" chest to hem. Or go to a half belt back where the cinch is in the middle. Half belts are really the fit king, it looks good in fit. Another option is to go full custom and specify torso width everywhere, but it's a bit tricky down that route too...

What Jacket Are You Wearing Today?

Gray Schott Perfecto Wow! El Tiburon.

www.thefedoralounge.com

All the McCoys

I haven't really paid that much attention to RMC as a jacket maker, as I thought they mostly did military aviator reproductions, and I'm more of a motorcycle and car coat kind of guy, and they're very expensive, even used. I recently noticed a gorgeous two-tone MC jacket on yahoo japan, but too...

www.thefedoralounge.com

Thanks for the pics and advice.
The earlier set of pics are a lot more flattering on you. Cinched-up produces that blouson effect.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Double Helix Type N-1 Deck jacket in horsehide review,

The short version,
The good, One of the best horsehides in the business imo, thick, grainy, oily, waxy, and PLIABLE out of the box
The bad, Tricky pattern, wide torso paired with same high armholes as patterns with one size slimmer torso...

The Long version,

So the long version will basically be my personal opinion about the fit of the pattern because the leather is awesome and nothing more or less to say about it.

The N-1 jacket doesn't have any contouring in the front panels. The Hugging Curve does, so the side panels wraps around to the front, where as the N-1 deck jacket front panels bleeds all the way to the edge. This would be fine if the torso is the same size as the Hugging curve, but it is not, making the already wide N-1 jacket looks even more boxy. I do suspect the N-1 torso was cut with alpaca liner in mind so the 24" width vs the 23", but the jacket only came with the same wool liner as the Hugging Curve, not alpaca pill liner, so there is more boxy fit shape. If this is just a military jacket I would be less critical, but for a "civilian" leather version, I would want more civilian stylish fits.

Downsizing to get the smaller P2P may or may not work, because the arm hole is already very high (not big) for the tag size. Unless the smaller size has the same arm hole height it may work, if it has smaller arm hole height then no. BTW, both the Hugging Curve and the Deck jacket are size 44, but Deck jacket is 24" P2P vs 23" for Hugging curve, and wider sleeves on the N-1 deck jacket with less forward rotation.

My 2 cents on the deck jacket fit is that, I would have hoped for more front contouring for it to look more fitted. I don't mind the wider torso, but it doesn't have to look boxy. My Aero Highwayman is same 24" width but it has contouring (similar to the Hugging Curve), so it looks more fitted but still good room to live through the winter. I feel that when leather version of a cloth military jacket is made, civilian fit looks could be taken into account.

Another small but can be big issue is the zipper. DH seems to stick with the small Hookless pull, they actually put it on the repro Talon (Waldes) track... For the weight of their jacket, over 8 lbs, I would think Universal(YKK) size 8 is probably the best long term option...

Circling back to the leather, it's great. Making this a mixed experience.

I ordered this jacket through FromJapan Proxy because I had a coupon. And my proxy then ordered it from DH's website. The lead time was about 2.5 months give or take, surprisingly shorter when compared to other Japanese brands pre-orders.

Maybe the best compromise would be to custom order the N-1 deck jacket with a custom taper. Size 44 goes from 24" at the pits down to 23" at the hem. It could get a Rainbow Country fit treatment where it tapers down to 21.5" at the waist and then flares out to 22" at the hem for a more flattering fit yet still functional.

Really great horsehide but boxy fits,

Mixed feelings...

 

[cbez]

looks nice. it's an n-1. i dont think you can be surprised that it's boxy, it's like ordering a kia soul. do the measurements match their provided specs?

 

[Canuck Panda]

do the measurements match their provided specs?

Yes they do.

 

[BigPond]

Yes they do.

Absolutely stunning leather. Thanks for your review.