Double Helix Works?

[Despot]

Also… looking back at the photos now I’d say they’re a true representation of the level of shine. It’s much less prevalent than it was and I’d say by the end of this season it’ll be close to where by FH Delraiser is at (and that’s got a few years wear on it before I picked it up).

 

[Canuck Panda]

About the leather on my Double Helix, I think it's the same Eco horse used on the Y2 jackets. Which I do not have, so this is just my speculation. Because of the "tiger" stripes grains, and the thickness, and the matte shine, are almost identical what the advertising for Eco horse is. Please take a look at the photos of my jacket previously posted, and now compare to the Y2 photos and descriptions online:

The epaulet on my DH jacket is single layer so I was able to get a caliper reading and it's thick:

This is on par with Aero monster CXL SH thickness. However, this Japanese version isn't stuffed with anything, so it weighs less in actual pounds.

The thing that impressed me the most was the construction or the machine work on this DH jacket. It doesn't seem skived, but they are laser straight machine work. There is a guy in NYC that make jacket like this (excellent machine work) but his jackets cost north of 2500 dollars, and his leather is also stuffed with something waterproof so it feels heavier (actual jacket weight is heavier).

I saw Greg post some photos while he was assembling a jacket, and he used some sort of stitching guide next to the needle. I suspect that is the case with these DH jackets as well. Robotic straight stitches on super thick leather gets me going...

About lead time, @sshack I bought mine on Rakuten and it was a stock jacket so no 45 days wait. I am tempted at other jackets offered by DH right now, both the tan color one and their version of the pigs tits.

About sizing, Double Helix fits the same as the mid range Y2 jackets I have, and half size smaller than Rainbow Country. Their size 42 is same as Aero Hooch Hauler size 40 with half size bigger in the tummy, same as Fountainhead. If you are used to the regular (mid to low) arm hole jackets, you would probably want to size up. The super high arm hole jackets works with smaller chest measurements, like a vest, but it takes some getting used to, especially with thicker leather. You'd have to get used to the armhole seam feel, there will always be pressure there. The mobility is reduced with the super tight bicep/shoulder sleeves. If you want super slim but still good mobility look for the ones with action pleats, it would offset the slim sleeves.

This is how the 42 fits on me, for a daily jacket I'd also size up to the next size, but this also could work. It felt like a straight jacket for the first half hour and then once I've accepted the arm hole pressure it's doable. The soft leather really helps, even with the thick seams.

 

[Marc mndt]

Great looking jacket, I love the tiger stripe leather.

Interesting to see the zipper not going all the way up to the end of the lapel.

 

[Canuck Panda]

And it's only a number 3 zipper!

 

[sshack]

About the leather on my Double Helix, I think it's the same Eco horse used on the Y2 jackets. Which I do not have, so this is just my speculation. Because of the "tiger" stripes grains, and the thickness, and the matte shine, are almost identical what the advertising for Eco horse is. Please take a look at the photos of my jacket previously posted, and now compare to the Y2 photos and descriptions online:

View attachment 470988
View attachment 470989
View attachment 470990
View attachment 470991

The epaulet on my DH jacket is single layer so I was able to get a caliper reading and it's thick:
View attachment 470992

This is on par with Aero monster CXL SH thickness. However, this Japanese version isn't stuffed with anything, so it weighs less in actual pounds.

The thing that impressed me the most was the construction or the machine work on this DH jacket. It doesn't seem skived, but they are laser straight machine work. There is a guy in NYC that make jacket like this (excellent machine work) but his jackets cost north of 2500 dollars, and his leather is also stuffed with something waterproof so it feels heavier (actual jacket weight is heavier).

I saw Greg post some photos while he was assembling a jacket, and he used some sort of stitching guide next to the needle. I suspect that is the case with these DH jackets as well. Robotic straight stitches on super thick leather gets me going...

View attachment 470993

About lead time, @sshack I bought mine on Rakuten and it was a stock jacket so no 45 days wait. I am tempted at other jackets offered by DH right now, both the tan color one and their version of the pigs tits.

About sizing, Double Helix fits the same as the mid range Y2 jackets I have, and half size smaller than Rainbow Country. Their size 42 is same as Aero Hooch Hauler size 40 with half size bigger in the tummy, same as Fountainhead. If you are used to the regular (mid to low) arm hole jackets, you would probably want to size up. The super high arm hole jackets works with smaller chest measurements, like a vest, but it takes some getting used to, especially with thicker leather. You'd have to get used to the armhole seam feel, there will always be pressure there. The mobility is reduced with the super tight bicep/shoulder sleeves. If you want super slim but still good mobility look for the ones with action pleats, it would offset the slim sleeves.

This is how the 42 fits on me, for a daily jacket I'd also size up to the next size, but this also could work. It felt like a straight jacket for the first half hour and then once I've accepted the arm hole pressure it's doable. The soft leather really helps, even with the thick seams.

View attachment 470994 View attachment 470996 View attachment 470997

Awesome report! Thanks!!! Really appreciate the info regarding" arm hole pressure." This is good to know. One of the main reasons I'm off Aero is because their jackets push down or cause pressure on the back of my neck. Not sure if it's because my trapezius is naturally kind of big, but... I didn't like it. Isn't this one supposed to be a riding jacket? It seems like it would be uncomfy to stretch your arms out with tight armhole style jackets.

 

[Marc mndt]

And it's only a number 3 zipper!

How do you like it as a main zip? I have a bunch of talon #3 but those don't feel like they were ever intended to go on a leather jacket, except maybe for the chest pocket.

Here's one next to a #5, they really are tiny.

 

[Damon141]

How do you like it as a main zip? I have a bunch of talon #3 but those don't feel like they were ever intended to go on a leather jacket, except maybe for the chest pocket.

Here's one next to a #5, they really are tiny.

View attachment 471062

I too have a couple cool #3 talon NOS 1930’s zippers and Greg said he’d be reluctant to use them on leather but I might try to place them as a chest pocket zipper more as decoration because I probably wouldn’t store anything in a chest pocket if you know what I mean.

If you are going through with the LeatherTogs build you can use them on the D Pocket or the hidden zipper on the inside flap

 

[Canuck Panda]

How do you like it as a main zip? I have a bunch of talon #3 but those don't feel like they were ever intended to go on a leather jacket, except maybe for the chest pocket.

Here's one next to a #5, they really are tiny.

View attachment 471062

Yup the number 3 is a bit extreme. Definitely not main zip. I would not even recommend them for pockets to be honest. I think the good old number 5 loop and ball is the better bet for pockets. There just isn't enough bite on the size 3 teeth. The 3 has a nice fancy look but for a custom build I wouldn't risk it.

 

[58panheadfan]

Double Helix Classic 1930s

I like the slighly longer lenght on this jacket a typical 30's Hercules Style. Also the three Pancel Back design with the narrow half belt is to my taste in combination with the slightly A-shape, flare from mid section to bottom.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Great pick up. I think Double Helix jackets are quite under rated right now because they haven't had that much exposure. Looking at the DH stuff myself again, just can't decide which direction to go. But I'm definitely going direct/custom this time. Trying to see if I can get a custom jacket from one of their new leathers.

 

[58panheadfan]

Great pick up. I think Double Helix jackets are quite under rated right now because they haven't had that much exposure. Looking at the DH stuff myself again, just can't decide which direction to go. But I'm definitely going direct/custom this time. Trying to see if I can get a custom jacket from one of their new leathers.

I really like the haptic of the veg tan HH from nitta tannery and the semi aniline top coat used. Deep black and shiny but of course that’s a personal preference.

 

[Marc mndt]

I think Double Helix jackets are quite under rated right now because they haven't had that much exposure.

I fully agree, I don't think people don't realize how nice their jackets really are. You need to have handled one to know.

one of their new leathers.

This is their 'oiled wax horsehide'. It felt nice, I think it'll develop lots of patina.

 

[Canuck Panda]

I really like the haptic of the veg tan HH from nitta tannery and the semi aniline top coat used. Deep black and shiny but of course that’s a personal preference.

That's the one I am looking at, the semi aniline one. Looks really good. Can't wait.

I fully agree, I don't think people don't realize how nice their jackets really are. You need to have handled one to know.

This is their 'oiled wax horsehide'. It felt nice, I think it'll develop lots of patina.

View attachment 565626 View attachment 565627 View attachment 565628 View attachment 565629 View attachment 565630 View attachment 565631

Really nice jacket.

 

[58panheadfan]

That's the one I am looking at, the semi aniline one. Looks really good. Can't wait.

@Canuck Panda I was asking about how I like the nitta HH vs. Shinki HH, here my answer:

Both leathers are similar in thickness, appearance and haptic. The DH is a tad thicker maybe 0.1 mm. The FW shows a bit more grain but the DH is new and I think the grain will pop up after some time with more wear. I am very pleased on both leathers, I would say they are in same league quality wise.

Pictures: FW on top, DH below

 

[Canuck Panda]

Very nice.

You've convinced me. I'm gonna go hug a curve now. Was debating between the black semi or the olive semi on the deck jacket. I think I'll get way more use out of the black semi aniline jacket for sure.

I had the Waving Flag jacket which was made in their full aniline leather, it was pretty substantial leather. And from some digging on Instagram I am guessing it was made at the Electric Leather Studio shop. Very nice jacket but ELS sizing was a bit tight.

I needed the extra push and your DH half belt jacket post just did it...

 

[58panheadfan]

... Seems like that they are manufactured in China but they said it is from Japan. They didnt make themselves clean of this question.

Interesting. What makes you say it seems that they're made in China?

i cannot find that article now, but brother bridge and slow wear lion owned by the same guy. and owner of double helix is from china too. I am not talking shit of chinese leather jackets, I am saying that if they manufacture the boot in Dongguan China, but they say it is made in japan, then they have no integrity in doing business. As for the product itself, I prefer double helix 'helix rider' more than fcl, but I would definitly not recommend brother bridge to anyone.

I got in touch with DH asking some questions, here's their answer:

Hello, glad to answer your questions (I asked for pattern making and buckle). Yes we do the pattern by ourselves and we adjusted every single details about the measurements. About the buckle, it’s a kind of vintage style. But we didn’t do the 100% copy of them. We redraw the pattern and made the buckle.

About the last question (I asked about the china made rumour). We heard the same thing from our dealer in China. But I don’t know who are writing it. It’s crazy. I don‘t know if it has anything to do with the following things. We heard that there are two-three companies in China producing fake jackets of Double Helix and sell them in China, their logos are very close to ours and they only changed the brand name or part of the pattern. We are applying for the icon patent, and we will Sue them once the application is finished in China.

You can rest assured that if you buy it from one of our dealers, it must be genuine and made by us in Japan.

 

[58panheadfan]

They certainly don't stack up to Freewheelers of course, but they seem decent enough. Quality seems good enough and the patterns aren't as awful as some of the new Japanese brands like Fountainhead or Fine Creek.

They're below Freewheelers and Rainbow Country tier as well as RMC tier, but above the other two I mentioned. I'd put them in Y2 tier- solid Japanese craftsmanship and good but not great patterns

About the pattern e.g. in my Classic 1930s I have to say I like it but it's true as mentioned from others they have narrow shoulders ~18" (46 cm) for a size 42". Also the pattern has some flare from mid section to bottom, you like it or not (same goes for A-shaped FW Brakeman). The Chest armhole area is more comfortable than the FW Brakeman, which is some kind of restrictive cutted in this area.

About Leather DH uses I would set the Nitta HH on par with Shinki HH used by FW for e.g. their Brakeman, I am able to compare. Quite same apperance in thickness and haptic. The Shinki used on FW Brakeman has slightly more grain but I think this will pop up on the DH with some more wear. I was told from another who's own Shinki HH used by FW, Shinki HH used by RMC he likes the Nitta HH used by DH the most. I like both Nitta & Shinki HH which I set in midweight section. But that's on a personal preference if you like heavy weight leather fqhh, veg tan vs. chrome/chromexcel leather etc. However, it should be mentioned, there is a significant difference in Shinki HH, which is used by FW and RMC compared to other takers.

 

[Canuck Panda]

I don’t think the DH jackets are produced in China. I have Chinese jackets and I had a Double Helix jacket and they‘re nothing alike.

About patterns there’s basically the three main different ones, one is the slim one where theres only 2” difference from chest down to hem circumference. Most of the Japanese jackets (and surprise, many Western jackets!) falls into this fit, except more new (Japan) jackets are switching to the drop four fits which is a bit bigger up top, like the new fit RMC Mobster. Then there is the FH/RC fit which is actually a bigger sized jacket with slimmed down torso and )Y( shaped by default. The trick is every brand / year of production tag their fits differently.

Waiting for my Huggin Curve, what a name. I am hoping this jacket turns out to be the drop 4 fit one though. So hard to tell from photos and no hem measurements posted online. I hesitated and missed out when Fine Creek was priced at <¥150,000. I’m not gonna miss out on DH now. If I could go back in time, I’d just buy FCL size 44/46 when they were cheaper. I think DH is size tagged similarly, going in for a 44 this time.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

@58panheadfan good to know about the Chinese fakes. I figured that rumor about them making in China was false. This may be the source of it. Definitely hope they sue them.

The Nitta HH looks great. If I could find a pattern from them that works I'd like to try it out.

 

[Momein]

About the pattern e.g. in my Classic 1930s I have to say I like it but it's true as mentioned from others they have narrow shoulders ~18" (46 cm) for a size 42". Also the pattern has some flare from mid section to bottom, you like it or not (same goes for A-shaped FW Brakeman). The Chest armhole area is more comfortable than the FW Brakeman, which is some kind of restrictive cutted in this area.

About Leather DH uses I would set the Nitta HH on par with Shinki HH used by FW for e.g. their Brakeman, I am able to compare. Quite same apperance in thickness and haptic. The Shinki used on FW Brakeman has slightly more grain but I think this will pop up on the DH with some more wear. I was told from another who's own Shinki HH used by FW, Shinki HH used by RMC he likes the Nitta HH used by DH the most. I like both Nitta & Shinki HH which I set in midweight section. But that's on a personal preference if you like heavy weight leather fqhh, veg tan vs. chrome/chromexcel leather etc. However, it should be mentioned, there is a significant difference in Shinki HH, which is used by FW and RMC compared to other takers.

The other one was me on instagram. As mentioned I currently like the semi aniline HH leather from nitta a bit more than the the shinki on my rmc j24 and find it equal to my FW mulholland. To be honest the difference in build quality is even bigger. The stitching on my deviant is far more accurate with less flaws compared to the RMC. Certainly this might not be the way in general but at least it’s valid for my jackets. Totally agree with Marc that DH is highly unrated. I can only suggest to give them a try as I think you get a lot of jacket for your money. This is my jacket which I bought used couple of weeks ago.