Double Breasted Vests

[Orgetorix]

I really like that suit -- the lapels on the vest are beautiful.

And well-made, too--look at the way the stripes line up!

 

[RevWarTaylor]

You see a lot of Double Breasted vest showing up in the early thritys Sears and Montgomery Ward Catalog's...they are usually listed under "Collegiate Wear"

Neal
Tailor

 

[Shaul-Ike Cohen]

used to be more common with db suits.

I thought the reason is DB jackets tend to be closed, so you just don't see much of the waistcoat as a rule. And if it isn't for the looks, a SB waistcoat will wear more comfortably under a fitted jacket.

If it is for the looks as well, it makes sense to choose, but that mostly concerns SB jackets, especially those that have one or two buttons, where the waistcoat shows even when the jacket's buttoned.

 

[Jovan]

I don't see much point to wearing a waistcoat under a double breasted either way... looks really busy and most are pretty darn high fastening. [huh] Just my opinion.

 

[Shaul-Ike Cohen]

I don't see much point to wearing a waistcoat under a double breasted either way... looks really busy and most are pretty darn high fastening. [huh] Just my opinion.

Cheaper than heating your flat.

 

[Dinerman]

Hugh Laurie in a double breasted vest.

and check out some of the double breasted vests in this thread
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=23391

 

[Sunny]

used to be more common with db suits. The hotel detective in
Maltese Falcon wears one.
They showed up for a little while in the 1970's.

1960s, with a SB suit.

 

[Jovan]

Cheaper than heating your flat.

Sweaters.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

the "reason" for wearing a waistcoat with a DB jacket is the same as the reason for wearing a waistcoat with a SB jacket: so that when you take your jacket off indoors, you don't expose your colleagues etc. to "nipple-show". Vulgar things, shirts are . . . And to hide your suspenders.

bk

 

[Jovan]

Undershirts help in that regard.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

But then you can see the undershirt. [huh] Exposing coworkers etc. to your underwear is hardly professional. Hence the waistcoat.

The fact is: It is uncomfortable to sit at a desk becoated. In an un-air conditioned environment it is also cold to do so in the winter. Therefore, in addition to its above-mentioned social function, it also keeps the wearer warm.

bk

 

[CharlestonBows]

But then you can see the undershirt. [huh] Exposing coworkers etc. to your underwear is hardly professional. Hence the waistcoat.

The fact is: It is uncomfortable to sit at a desk uncoated. In an un-air conditioned environment it is also cold to do so in the winter. Therefore, in addition to its above-mentioned social function, it also keeps the wearer warm.

bk

+1

I'll add also that, until relatively recently, shirts were regarded as underwear.

An old tailor on King St., whom the owner of my store once worked under, once said that every clothier must keep his jacket (or waistcoat) on at all times, because it was "improper for clients -- especially women -- to see a gentleman in his shirt sleeves!" [bad]

He maintained this rule at all times in his shop. In Charleston, that's tough in the middle of the summer. The rule still stands in our shop now.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

And well-made, too--look at the way the stripes line up!

Funnily enough, it's the worst made vintage British suit i've handled. Very hastily made number, that one! I love it all the same.

bk

 

[CharlestonBows]

^^ - maybe it's all in the way the wearer is wearing it! (Love that alliteration).

 

[Shaul-Ike Cohen]

Sweaters.

And for the very same reason - heating -, I haven't worn a jumper for years, though I really do like some of the Fair Isle designs, for instance, and used to wear existentialist sixties black turtlenecks even when out of Paris. Or pyjamas, for that matter.

I'll add also that, until relatively recently, shirts were regarded as underwear.

Exactly. My ('45-born) mother-in-law once asked me if super-Orthodox rabbi X was to be taken seriously, because when she paid him a(n announced) visit, he answered the door in his shirt sleeves.

 

[Jovan]

Joaven?

lol

 

[Shaul-Ike Cohen]

Joaven?

lol

Žao mi je about the typo, had to do that manually for one of the quotes.

 

[John in Covina]

The Untouchables (TV)

In the old tv show of the Untouchables with Robert Stack, you would occasionally see either a High up bad guy or some businessman wear a DB waistcoat.

The bad guys would sometimes wear to light colored ones that are the more formal style where the front is low with a non matching suit.

(Made me think of the one actor one of the lawyers on Ally McBeal he worn the different colored vest with his suits alot.)

 

[TWLyon]

Source for DB vest/waistcoat?

Forgive me if this is a stupid question, I'm new here....

I have a daycoat that is not too bad, but the waistcoat is abysmal. Does anyone know of a source in the US for proper double or single breasted lapeled waistcoats? Besides trolling eBay of course.

Thanks.

 

[Evan Everhart]

I liked the store from Britain, but its far out of my price range! The others were too cowboyish. What I had in mind was more of a long cut, plain white vest (alot like the vest posted on the British website), light cloth, 4 button and no collar. Where I'd look for one outsite custom made, I cannot say. But if it is to be custom made would anyone have an idea where and if so how much? I'm only a kid, I can't really afford anything over $100 and thats about as much as I'd like to pay for something like that.

Mr. Daswani of MySuitShop.com. He's made me up a few pieces, and one of those was a wonderful repro of a waist-coat from an 1890s clothing catalogue. The vest was pretty reasonable considering all of the custom details I had (Italian linen-silk blend linen woven material with hand made woven selvage buttons. NONE of those metal base ones & etc.) He starts his vests at about $65. He also does any shirt pretty much for little or no extra charge as a detachable collar model. He's a good guy and knows what he's about and is also very professional about it.