Dobbs Unusual style from 1918

[Tango Yankee]

For fans of the unusual, here's a Dobbs that I won recently. It's not something that I could see myself wearing (what would I wear it with would be a big question) but my wife has decided that it'll be her hat and will be looking for the right outfit to wear under it. I have no idea what this style would be called.

The color is kind of an aqua, with a royal purple ribbon and edge binding. You'll notice a kind of reverse taper, or bell shape. The top is slightly curved, with an indent (flaw) in the middle where it's been pressed down somehow.

The brim, like the rest of the hat, is stiff. It curves up a little bit all the way around.

I'm not familiar with the construction of top hats as I've not yet purchased one but Brad saw some similarities in the auction photos. This hat is formed by a type of fiberboard covered by fur felt on the top and a grosgrain-like fabric on the underside of the brim.

The inside of the hat with the liner pulled up:

The liner on the sides is slightly quilted, with a satin-like material on the outside and a light canvas-like material on the inside. There is no sweatband, nor was one ever a part of this hat.

Here is the liner. You can also tell from this photo that the material on the underside of the brim was cut from one piece.

This shows the inside of the liner, plus the "To Duplicate" tag:

I wonder if the presence of a "To Duplicate" tag indicates a hat that was a particular style rather than a custom?

A close-up of the grosgrain on the underside of the brim:

At first I thought it had an interesting ribbon treatment in that the bow ribbon towards the front appeared to have been pleated, but the reality is that it was pushed backwards and inadvertently creased that way at some point.

 

[Tango Yankee]

To continue...

I believe that the edge of the edge binding was deliberately rubbed or sanded to create the smooth, shinier and darker edge:

Here's a shot of the stitching holding the bow in place. Holes had to be drilled or punched through the fiberboard:

There is writing on the other side of the crown wall in what appears to be something like grease pencil. There's a word I cannot quite make out... looks like Metrocolla or something like that to me. There's also what I think is a date and a couple of indistinct figures.

Does anyone have any idea as to what this style might be called or under what conditions it may have been worn?

If anyone would like to see additional photos let me know and I'll try to oblige.

Cheers,
Tom

 

[Brad Bowers]

Thanks for the photo essay, Tom. It really is neat to document this hat. It's using much of the same construction as a top hat.

I think this has got to be a special-purpose hat, but what that purpose might be, who knows? Because of the construction, it's more formal than anything else, but seems like it might be for a uniform or a costume of some sort.

Hats in 1918 were still very conservative, and this hat looks pretty radical for that period, if it was a standard style. Heck, this hat looks pretty radical for ANY period.lol

I'll keep my eyes open for any information that might help you out with identifying the hat.

Brad

 

[Mr. Lucky]

I think, just maybe - and I can't visually confirm this - that it might be a woman's hat! I remember seeing pictures of women, in my family and of that era, wearing that kind of hat.

 

[Tango Yankee]

I think, just maybe - and I can't visually confirm this - that it might be a woman's hat! I remember seeing pictures of women, in my family and of that era, wearing that kind of hat.

I cannot completely discount that idea, Mr. Lucky, but two factors are against it. First, the bow is on the left side and traditionally bows on a woman's hat would be on the right. Secondly, it fits me and I'm currently wearing about a 7 3/8 which would be a bit large for a woman's hat in my limited experience.

Cheers,
Tom

 

[Bassman]

...that it might be a woman's hat!

Yeah. Looks like a woman's hat to me too.

 

[Brad Bowers]

Secondly, it fits me and I'm currently wearing about a 7 3/8 which would be a bit large for a woman's hat in my limited experience.

We need pictures of it on your head!!!!

All joking aside, seeing it in the context of being worn might help give someone an idea of what its purpose in life was.

Brad

 

[Tango Yankee]

We need pictures of it on your head!!!!

All joking aside, seeing it in the context of being worn might help give someone an idea of what its purpose in life was.

Brad

Hmmm.... not sure what to wear it with. I'm planning on wearing a charcoal-grey suit on Tuesday. Maybe that will do.

Cheers,
Tom

 

[KeyGrip]

That's an amazing hat. Thanks for the pictures.

 

[Mr. Lucky]

Take a look at this.

http://www.shorpy.com/node/4872?size=_original

 

[Brad Bowers]

Take a look at this.

http://www.shorpy.com/node/4872?size=_original

And there are several hats with bows on the left. Good find, Lucky.

So, could very well be a women's hat, as the style seems to look about right, and the colors are seemingly more feminine.

And yet, the formality of the hat is almost more masculine, as is the size.

I'm back to leaning more toward that it's a women's hat.

Cab Calloway could have pulled it off, though.

Brad

 

[Tango Yankee]

And yet, the formality of the hat is almost more masculine, as is the size.

I was wondering if it might have been from some sort of lodge, club, association, group, whatever you would like to call it. The Shriners have their fez and the Masons apparently wear different types of hats, for example.

I'm back to leaning more toward that it's a women's hat.

Well, since Rhonda has declared it hers it certainly is one now! lol

Cheers,
Tom

 

[Mr. Lucky]

And there are several hats with bows on the left. Good find, Lucky.

So, could very well be a women's hat, as the style seems to look about right, and the colors are seemingly more feminine.

And yet, the formality of the hat is almost more masculine, as is the size.

I'm back to leaning more toward that it's a women's hat.

Cab Calloway could have pulled it off, though.

Brad

I just remember seeing a photo of my great-grandmother, who would have been around 20 at that time, in a very similar hat. I always loved that photo.

 

[Tango Yankee]

I just remember seeing a photo of my great-grandmother, who would have been around 20 at that time, in a very similar hat. I always loved that photo.

I take your point, Mr. Lucky, and after looking at the photo you posted the link to I suppose that it's possible that a woman's hat might need to be a bit larger than their nominal hat size to accommodate hair styles.

Too bad it's unlikely we'll ever find out the truth, eh?

Cheers,
Tom

 

[GWD]

Women traditionally have much more hair than men, maybe a large size hat like this would allow for long hair?? [huh]

 

[Brad Bowers]

...I suppose that it's possible that a woman's hat might need to be a bit larger than their nominal hat size to accommodate hair styles.

Good point. That one never occurred to me.

Brad

 

[Brad Bowers]

Just discovered that Reiner & Core is apparently still in business in Morgantown, WV. Since 1909. Not that they'd have any information, but they might get a kick out of it if you contacted them, or sent them photos.

Brad

 

[tonyb]

Brad's right, I think -- it does appear to be a formal hat. That's provided, though, that it was made to be worn by a man. That lack of any sort of sweatband has me scratching my head. Perhaps it was thought that it would be worn under circumstances (cooler temperatures, no real exertion) that wouldn't lead to much perspiring. And then, maybe it was actually made to be worn atop an elaborately coifed lady.

Whatever it is, I find it quite nice. If that "1918" written on the inside of the crown is its year of manufacture (seems likely that it is), then it's quite remarkable that it has survived 91 years in such a good condition. Quite the score, TY. Do you mind disclosing what you paid for it?

 

[feltfan]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=300307293622

Really interesting hat.

Interesting also to consider what is formal.
The setting of the picture Mr. Lucky found, a wartime
cooking class, would not immediately seem to us to
be a formal setting. But people are dressed.

 

[feltfan]

Did a Google image search on 1918 hat

For the first three images:
http://www.history.navy.mil/photos/pers-us/uspers-c/m-croft.htm

(see also, http://www.history.navy.mil/photos/prs-tpic/females/yeof-g9.htm)

And this might suggest a use:

I also found this...

Eye protection, you know.