Jerry Probst
One of the Regulars
- Messages
- 109
Ok, So the two basic questions addressed in the previous round of analysis are: 1. Is this a man's hat or a woman's hat and 2. What is it's purpose?
Most of the discussion seemed to agree that this is a woman's hat design. Yankee Tango's deep blue and purple version help point the direction toward it being a woman's hat, but I believe my somber black version was also worn by women.
As to purpose, the views were less in agreement. First let me give my initial impressions and thoughts then I'll recap the other views.
As I said I purchased this at an estate sale in Dallas Texas. The owner had perhaps 20-25 hats in the house. Some were western hats, some were opera hats and toppers, and some were military hats. I initially picked this hat up with the possible intention of selling it on ebay as a "steampunk" hat. It was the nicest of the hats and seemed to speak to me. I grabbed it and one other hat, but unfortunately, I passed on the opera hat and topper because they were too small for me. (A decision I later came to regret)
When I got home the odd shape of the hat puzzled me. It is quite clearly a low profile topper, but it could almost be described as a boater if it were straw. My initial thoughts were that it might be an antebellum navy or whaling hat. The flat brim seemed to fit that period as seen in other top hats and even Abe Lincoln's stove pipe.
But upon researching the hatter Eastman Bros and Bancroft in Portland ME, I discovered that they were in business from 1865-1937. So my initial impression was wrong.
In the Knox thread, Hurricane Jack said the hat was a woman's riding hat. He observed that the unusual inner lining was intended to help secure the hat on a lady's head without crushing her hairstyle.
I searched web sources and learned a great deal more about Women's riding attire and hat styles than I had ever known before. In the process, while I can see the similarities, I have been unable to locate any riding hat images that have dead flat brim like this hat. All the hat styles have flanges, contours and curled edges to one degree or another. None are flat.
Another member suggested the hat was part of a uniform worn by the Yeomanettes ... female enlisted personel in the U.S. Naval Reserve during WWI. A photo posted shows the women in uniform wearing a very similar hat.
Another image shows details of the uniform.
While the Yeomanette's uniform hat is very similar you will notice that it has a slightly different shape than the hats Yankee Tango and I have.
Our hats both have a slight hour glass or bell shaped outward curve to the crown. The photos of the Yeomanette hats show a crown with dead straight sides.
While they appear very similar ... when compared side by side ... it's pretty clear, to me at least, that they are different hats.
So ... both of the prime contenders ... the Riding Hat and the Navy uniform are not exact matches.
Which leads us back to the original question ... what the heck is it?
While, I am not convinced this was a military hat, I believe it has some connection to the war.
The year 1918 has cropped up several times.
First, 1918 was the year the Yeomanettes were organized.
Second, the number 1918 was written on the inner crown of Yankee Tango's hat.
Third, the Dobbs label of Yankee Tango's hat corresponds to the label used in Dobbs Tuxedo Hats between 1917 and 1919 as listed by www.thehattedprofessor.com.
While I have my doubts that either of these hats were used for military uniforms, they may have been inspired by women's military service.
I think it is possible that hat companies began producing these flat brim hats in response to a wartime fashion demand lead by female enlistments.
This photo shows a group of behatted women attending a medical demonstration in Washington D.C in 1918. A woman in the center left is wearing a very similar shaped flat brim hat.
So, That's my best explanation. I would like to know what you guys think. Please feel free to poke holes in my logic where you see fit. I want to know why these hats came to be made.
The fact that two separate makers were producing nearly identical designs suggests the design itself has some relevance. I just want to know what it is.
Thanks again for your insights.
Most of the discussion seemed to agree that this is a woman's hat design. Yankee Tango's deep blue and purple version help point the direction toward it being a woman's hat, but I believe my somber black version was also worn by women.
As to purpose, the views were less in agreement. First let me give my initial impressions and thoughts then I'll recap the other views.
As I said I purchased this at an estate sale in Dallas Texas. The owner had perhaps 20-25 hats in the house. Some were western hats, some were opera hats and toppers, and some were military hats. I initially picked this hat up with the possible intention of selling it on ebay as a "steampunk" hat. It was the nicest of the hats and seemed to speak to me. I grabbed it and one other hat, but unfortunately, I passed on the opera hat and topper because they were too small for me. (A decision I later came to regret)
When I got home the odd shape of the hat puzzled me. It is quite clearly a low profile topper, but it could almost be described as a boater if it were straw. My initial thoughts were that it might be an antebellum navy or whaling hat. The flat brim seemed to fit that period as seen in other top hats and even Abe Lincoln's stove pipe.
But upon researching the hatter Eastman Bros and Bancroft in Portland ME, I discovered that they were in business from 1865-1937. So my initial impression was wrong.
In the Knox thread, Hurricane Jack said the hat was a woman's riding hat. He observed that the unusual inner lining was intended to help secure the hat on a lady's head without crushing her hairstyle.
I searched web sources and learned a great deal more about Women's riding attire and hat styles than I had ever known before. In the process, while I can see the similarities, I have been unable to locate any riding hat images that have dead flat brim like this hat. All the hat styles have flanges, contours and curled edges to one degree or another. None are flat.
Another member suggested the hat was part of a uniform worn by the Yeomanettes ... female enlisted personel in the U.S. Naval Reserve during WWI. A photo posted shows the women in uniform wearing a very similar hat.
Another image shows details of the uniform.
While the Yeomanette's uniform hat is very similar you will notice that it has a slightly different shape than the hats Yankee Tango and I have.
Our hats both have a slight hour glass or bell shaped outward curve to the crown. The photos of the Yeomanette hats show a crown with dead straight sides.
While they appear very similar ... when compared side by side ... it's pretty clear, to me at least, that they are different hats.
So ... both of the prime contenders ... the Riding Hat and the Navy uniform are not exact matches.
Which leads us back to the original question ... what the heck is it?
While, I am not convinced this was a military hat, I believe it has some connection to the war.
The year 1918 has cropped up several times.
First, 1918 was the year the Yeomanettes were organized.
Second, the number 1918 was written on the inner crown of Yankee Tango's hat.
Third, the Dobbs label of Yankee Tango's hat corresponds to the label used in Dobbs Tuxedo Hats between 1917 and 1919 as listed by www.thehattedprofessor.com.
While I have my doubts that either of these hats were used for military uniforms, they may have been inspired by women's military service.
I think it is possible that hat companies began producing these flat brim hats in response to a wartime fashion demand lead by female enlistments.
This photo shows a group of behatted women attending a medical demonstration in Washington D.C in 1918. A woman in the center left is wearing a very similar shaped flat brim hat.
So, That's my best explanation. I would like to know what you guys think. Please feel free to poke holes in my logic where you see fit. I want to know why these hats came to be made.
The fact that two separate makers were producing nearly identical designs suggests the design itself has some relevance. I just want to know what it is.
Thanks again for your insights.
