Discussion Thread: Different stitching techniques used by different brands

[PeterHuang]

Hi all,

I have been a not-signed-in member of Fedora Lounge for several years, checked out the forum and read new posts every day. I am also a big fan of leather jackets (as we all do), and own about 15 pieces from Aero, Schott, Johnson Leather, Real Mccoy, Rainbow Country, Fine Creek, Fountainhead. Currently, I am trying to learn more in depth about stitching techniques and eventually want to get into crafting. Unfortunately, I could not find a lot of resources here or online talking about stitching techniques so I would like to open a thread where people can discuss about that and share resources.

Here are several big questions that I have in mind. Answers with illustration are greatly appreciated.

1) What are some of the main stitching techniques that are mainly used on leather jackets, their pros and cons, and how do they work? I know the two main ones are lock stitch and saddle stitch where lock stitch can be done by machines but much less durable than saddle stitch which can only be done by hand. Are there any other kind of stitching techniques that are commonly used on leather jacket, how about techniques like single stitch, Box stitch, zig zag stitch, Z stitch, ... If they are not used on leather jacket, then why not? Do people use different stitching techniques on different part of the jacket, if yes, how so?

2) We all talk about stitching quality of a leather jacket. What exactly are we looking at when we examine a leather jacket's stitch. What do we mean when we said stitches are "neater" on a jacket than the other one? Do different stitching techniques contribute differently to the neatness of the stiches, or any technique can make stitches in a neat way, it is just a skill issue? Why do Japanese brand like Freewheeler, Real Mccoy, Rainbow Country... have neater stitches than less say Schott and Vanson? Do they use a totally different technique, or they are just more meticulous and treat the product with more care? If they use a different technique, that what is their stitching technique?

3) Let's discuss about stitching techniques used by big brands from the West to the East, the how they contribute to the look + durability of their products. Here are some brands to brainstorm. From the West: Vanson, Aero, Schott, Langlitz, Johnson Leather, Lost World, Goodwear, Himel, Eastman, Avirex, Thedi, Field Leather, Regius, Lewis Leather, Simmon Bilts, ELMC, Bill Kelso, Belstaff, Cromford, or vintages like Wolfe, Leathertog... From the East (mainly Japan): Freewheeler, Rainbow Country, Real Mccoy, Fine Creek, Iron Heart, Flat Head, Y2, Buzz Rickson, Colimbo, Gangsterville, Attractions, Double Helix, Addict, Tenjin Work, Fountainhead, Electric Leather Studio.

 

[Aloysius]

Honestly you should just get a job at a quality leather jacket operation and you'll learn for real while all we'll do here is speculate badly based on what we wear.

When I was at Vanson's factory, they were hiring. I expect similar at Schott or Aero in the UK. There aren't that many people these days who are into the craft so the companies will welcome those who are.

If I were doing over my postsecondary life I would apprentice with a tailor.

 

[handymike]

I agree here…My son has applied to University of Washington, and if he gets accepted I might give John Chapman a call to ask for a job…
If NYU is the choice, then @regius you can expect a call….

 

[PilotJens]

I don't know if there are techniques since almost all jackets are basically Mashine stitched .I think you are getting confused by shoe making where there are indeed different stitching techniques.

Some quality differences may occur due to different machines and their capabilitie of using thicker threads.
Some machines cannot handle a very thick bottom/bobin thread which could make a difference in long term durability

 

[PeterHuang]

Honestly you should just get a job at a quality leather jacket operation and you'll learn for real while all we'll do here is speculate badly based on what we wear.

When I was at Vanson's factory, they were hiring. I expect similar at Schott or Aero in the UK. There aren't that many people these days who are into the craft so the companies will welcome those who are.

If I were doing over my postsecondary life I would apprentice with a tailor.

I totally agree man, especially the part about post secondary life haha. I currently have a decent paying job in finance plus I am already 33 so not looking for a change of career since I kinda love my job and it pays well haha. However, I have crocheting as a hobby which is considered abnormal for men, and have been interested in leather craft since I got my first leather piece from Schott. I know in order to achieve my goal of making a leather jacket for myself, I will eventually need to take some classes from professionals, but not at stake of my career. For now, I just want to learn more about the craft from connoisseurs like you guys, and resources or answers to my questions are greatly appreciated!

 

[PeterHuang]

I agree here…My son has applied to University of Washington, and if he gets accepted I might give John Chapman a call to ask for a job…
If NYU is the choice, then @regius you can expect a call….

Funny you mentioned NYU, I actually went to NYU as an undergrad, but I went to Stern School of Business. Didn’t know Regius is a professor at NYU, which school does he teach? Tisch?

 

[handymike]

Funny you mentioned NYU, I actually went to NYU as an undergrad, but I went to Stern School of Business. Didn’t know Regius is a professor at NYU, which school does he teach? Tisch?

School of great jacketmaking…I believe he taught himself.

 

[PeterHuang]

I don't know if there are techniques since almost all jackets are basically Mashine stitched .I think you are getting confused by shoe making where there are indeed different stitching techniques.

Some quality differences may occur due to different machines and their capabilitie of using thicker threads.
Some machines cannot handle a very thick bottom/bobin thread which could make a difference in long term durability

Thanks for the info! Not sure about the technique, but I know some one like Dave from Himel handstitched his jackets with saddle stitch technique which cannot be done by machine. I also talked to a local jacket maker in my country and they told me they used saddle stitch to deal with big pieces but lock stitch for the armpit and pocket. Not sure if they are the only two only options for leather jacket.

Regarding the quality, what exactly do we mean when we say one piece has NEATER stitches than other pieces. And why brands like Freewheelers, Rainbow Country, Real Mccoy are worshipped for their stitches. I remembered I read somewhere on this forum that they used a very different stitching technique from the west.

 

[PeterHuang]

School of great jacketmaking…I believe he taught himself.

It’s always great to meet and talk to connoisseurs like him to learn more about the craft. I also happen to live in NYC at the moment, do you have any experience with talking to him in person?

 

[Aloysius]

sure about the technique, but I know some one like Dave from Himel handstitched his jackets

Himel is a designer, not a maker. (This isn’t an insult but a clarification.)

 

[PeterHuang]

Himel is a designer, not a maker. (This isn’t an insult but a clarification.)

Thanks for the clarification! I did not know about that. I thought Dave Himel is a one-man-show like John Chapman who does both designing and making? No?

 

[Monitor]

Thanks for the clarification! I did not know about that. I thought Dave Himel is a one-man-show like John Chapman who does both designing and making? No?

Oh, he's a one man show alright. Just not the jacket making kind of show.

 

[bigmanbigtruck]

Thanks for the clarification! I did not know about that. I thought Dave Himel is a one-man-show like John Chapman who does both designing and making? No?

If you look at some of the other threads dedicated to him, you'll find that he has an interesting relationship with stitching.

 

[Aloysius]

Thanks for the clarification! I did not know about that. I thought Dave Himel is a one-man-show like John Chapman who does both designing and making? No?

He's a designer with an extensive archive of vintage leather jackets who has a team of admins, machinists, and cutters.