Discussion Thread: Different stitching techniques used by different brands

[PeterHuang]

Hi all,

I have been a not-signed-in member of Fedora Lounge for several years, checked out the forum and read new posts every day. I am also a big fan of leather jackets (as we all do), and own about 15 pieces from Aero, Schott, Johnson Leather, Real Mccoy, Rainbow Country, Fine Creek, Fountainhead. Currently, I am trying to learn more in depth about stitching techniques and eventually want to get into crafting. Unfortunately, I could not find a lot of resources here or online talking about stitching techniques so I would like to open a thread where people can discuss about that and share resources.

Here are several big questions that I have in mind. Answers with illustration are greatly appreciated.

1) What are some of the main stitching techniques that are mainly used on leather jackets, their pros and cons, and how do they work? I know the two main ones are lock stitch and saddle stitch where lock stitch can be done by machines but much less durable than saddle stitch which can only be done by hand. Are there any other kind of stitching techniques that are commonly used on leather jacket, how about techniques like single stitch, Box stitch, zig zag stitch, Z stitch, ... If they are not used on leather jacket, then why not? Do people use different stitching techniques on different part of the jacket, if yes, how so?

2) We all talk about stitching quality of a leather jacket. What exactly are we looking at when we examine a leather jacket's stitch. What do we mean when we said stitches are "neater" on a jacket than the other one? Do different stitching techniques contribute differently to the neatness of the stiches, or any technique can make stitches in a neat way, it is just a skill issue? Why do Japanese brand like Freewheeler, Real Mccoy, Rainbow Country... have neater stitches than less say Schott and Vanson? Do they use a totally different technique, or they are just more meticulous and treat the product with more care? If they use a different technique, that what is their stitching technique?

3) Let's discuss about stitching techniques used by big brands from the West to the East, the how they contribute to the look + durability of their products. Here are some brands to brainstorm. From the West: Vanson, Aero, Schott, Langlitz, Johnson Leather, Lost World, Goodwear, Himel, Eastman, Avirex, Thedi, Field Leather, Regius, Lewis Leather, Simmon Bilts, ELMC, Bill Kelso, Belstaff, Cromford, or vintages like Wolfe, Leathertog... From the East (mainly Japan): Freewheeler, Rainbow Country, Real Mccoy, Fine Creek, Iron Heart, Flat Head, Y2, Buzz Rickson, Colimbo, Gangsterville, Attractions, Double Helix, Addict, Tenjin Work, Fountainhead, Electric Leather Studio.

 

[Aloysius]

Honestly you should just get a job at a quality leather jacket operation and you'll learn for real while all we'll do here is speculate badly based on what we wear.

When I was at Vanson's factory, they were hiring. I expect similar at Schott or Aero in the UK. There aren't that many people these days who are into the craft so the companies will welcome those who are.

If I were doing over my postsecondary life I would apprentice with a tailor.

 

[handymike]

I agree here…My son has applied to University of Washington, and if he gets accepted I might give John Chapman a call to ask for a job…
If NYU is the choice, then @regius you can expect a call….

 

[PilotJens]

I don't know if there are techniques since almost all jackets are basically Mashine stitched .I think you are getting confused by shoe making where there are indeed different stitching techniques.

Some quality differences may occur due to different machines and their capabilitie of using thicker threads.
Some machines cannot handle a very thick bottom/bobin thread which could make a difference in long term durability