Diamond Dave J-100 Buco

[zhz]

Personally, I like the longer fit. And I think the Original J-100 is a long jacket, am I right?

 

[ProteinNerd]

The pronounced flaring on the long one might be the problem for me.

That's just the curse of having a slim waist and wearing a slim fitting custom sized jacket I guess. And from what I understand is the reason Dave made the initial short jacket so much more cropped than I originally expected. It either flares over the hip or you need it to stop just before the hip. Obviously if the jacket wasn't this fitted it wouldn't be an issue.

The buco j-100 is supposed to be a fairly long fitting jacket, not that it is important to me at all whether it is historically accurate or not but I'm pretty sure it is

 

[ProteinNerd]

Oh and I wear my jackets unzipped 99% of the time once they are a bit worn in! The only reason I included zipped photos is someone mentioned it in a thread a while ago that they like to see pics of jackets zipped and unzipped

 

[Chi-Town Co]

Thanks for the fit pictures ProteinNerd. The hide on your jackets looks amazing. I really liked the pictures of the J-100 on the web but honestly after seeing the fit pictures, I'm not a huge fan of the flared bottom. I prefer the shorter version albeit with a couple of inches added. The short version reminds me of the Vanson Comet that has a 23 inch back length as well. I think the Insurrection version called the PL3 that adds 3 inches in length but keeps that clean close fit is more to my taste..

 

[Grayland]

Thanks for the fit pictures ProteinNerd. The hide on your jackets looks amazing. I really liked the pictures of the J-100 on the web but honestly after seeing the fit pictures, I'm not a huge fan of the flared bottom. I prefer the shorter version albeit with a couple of inches added. The short version reminds me of the Vanson Comet that has a 23 inch back length as well. I think the Insurrection version called the PL3 that adds 3 inches in length but keeps that clean close fit is more to my taste..

The close fit you desire is tough to achieve on a fitted jacket when it is made longer - unless you have some flare at the bottom. Your hips & butt circumference is probably larger than your waist measurement and anything that tapers down your V-shape is going to need to start flaring outward to accommodate your rear end. I'm guessing that is one of the reasons it is fairly common for longer cafe racers to have the zipper start a few inches up from the bottom of the jacket - it gives the wearer a little "expansion" when zipped.

 

[Chi-Town Co]

The close fit you desire is tough to achieve on a fitted jacket when it is made longer - unless you have some flare at the bottom. Your hips & butt circumference is probably larger than your waist measurement and anything that tapers down your V-shape is going to need to start flaring outward to accommodate your rear end. I'm guessing that is one of the reasons it is fairly common for longer cafe racers to have the zipper start a few inches up from the bottom of the jacket - it gives the wearer a little "expansion" when zipped.

Thanks, that makes sense.. Maybe the PL3 comes with a double zipper for just that reason? Just saying that 23" was too short for my taste and I like more like 25" or 26" in a racer.. there are plenty around that length without having a flared bottom.

 

[Seb Lucas]

The buco j-100 is supposed to be a fairly long fitting jacket, not that it is important to me at all whether it is historically accurate or not but I'm pretty sure it is

I know. The J100 has always been a favourite of mine. Maybe it's the photo or maybe it is just that little bit too long. I think generally as a 42 they are about 27-28 inches long at back. I generally prefer a longer jacket. The zipped up photo looks better.

Forgot that your height was an issue. I'm six two and 28 inches is perfect in this pattern.

 

[ProteinNerd]

Thanks, that makes sense.. Maybe the PL3 comes with a double zipper for just that reason? Just saying that 23" was too short for my taste and I like more like 25" or 26" in a racer.. there are plenty around that length without having a flared bottom.

I'm guessing they aren't as fitted at the waist, my Aero Cafe Racer is about the same length as this long buco and I'm glad I ordered it with a double ended zipper and they were available.

Even though the Aero is a slim fit, it isn't anywhere near as tapered as the Buco and thus doesn't flare out. It's hard to tell from the photo but it's the only one I have and I'm away so can't take another ATM. Strange that it is virtually the same length but the buco definitely looks longer, might be the angle of the photos?

And Seb, I wasn't aware being 5'11 was an "issue"! :eeek:

 

[Jägernaut]

Alas, i must accept the fact that the diamond dave buco i bought from him on ebay will not fit me. The waist is a little tight for me but i know i can drop enough at the waist to fit in it eventually. The chest is a little tight but i can move around fine in it. The only real problem is the shoulders are too narrow. The grain is awesome especially on the back. I hate to admit that i must sell it.

 

[Seb Lucas]

And Seb, I wasn't aware being 5'11 was an "issue"! :eeek:

As you know, all heights are an issue when fitting a jacket - and as you've seen getting a long Buco fitting right is often tricky. 28 is perfect for me. Too long for you. Crazy long for someone 5'8.

 

[Verboten]

How is the needlework on the new jacket? Any close-up photos? The first jacket's seams were a little wavy and had some thread overlap.

 

[ProteinNerd]

The stitching on the second is pretty much the same as the shorter one. 98% of it is spot on, but if you are really really anal about that sort of thing, there are a few instances where it is a little wavy. Not enough for me to give it a second thought....others might not be the same.

I ended up getting the longer one shortened a bit (about 1 - 1.5 inches) at a motorcycle leather repairer here in Sydney and I think its a much better length and it doesn't flare as much when zipped now. Its exactly the length I initially specified, I couldn't be happier.

 

[Bunyip]

The stitching on the second is pretty much the same as the shorter one. 98% of it is spot on, but if you are really really anal about that sort of thing, there are a few instances where it is a little wavy. Not enough for me to give it a second thought....others might not be the same.

I ended up getting the longer one shortened a bit (about 1 - 1.5 inches) at a motorcycle leather repairer here in Sydney and I think its a much better length and it doesn't flare as much when zipped now. Its exactly the length I initially specified, I couldn't be happier.

Hi mate, what motorcycle leather repair shop find you use? Very handy to know being in Canberra, but regularly going to Sydney.
Cheers.

 

[nick123]

There is a J-31 on the VLJ forum Dave just made. One of the best jackets I've ever seen.

 

[ProteinNerd]

Hi mate, what motorcycle leather repair shop find you use? Very handy to know being in Canberra, but regularly going to Sydney.
Cheers.

Venus Repair Workshop
Leather Repair Service
36/104 Bathurst St, Sydney NSW 2000
(02) 9267 0706

 

[Bunyip]

Thanks mate. Much appreciated.

 

[Verboten]

After you had the long jacket shortened, what was the total length in back? Do you have any pictures with it on?

 

[ProteinNerd]

After you had the long jacket shortened, what was the total length in back? Do you have any pictures with it on?

It's now 24.5" at the back from the base of the collar, a bit longer at the front. It sits exactly on my jeans back pockets now.

 

[handymike]

right on, brotha'

 

[Verboten]

Looks good!