Denim Jackets - New or Vintage

[ton312]

Please don’t - that’s why I love them [emoji3]


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Well at 6’7” I’m sure you do!

 

[Jrolfe]

I think on paper IH tends to be worse than reality. I need 19”-20” shoulders, and pits at least 23”+. In order to get that IH had the sleeves at 27.1-28”!!! But the actual measurements were far less. Maybe 26+. With some creasing....voila not a bad fit. Another thing worth mentioning is that I’ve had much crazier sizing than IH. My 3sixteen is actually a 3XL!! The upper section fits really good, but the waist is gigantic! Im normally a “big” Large or an XL.

 

[SinSir]

Once again, found another Japanese denim jacket I liked and the shoulders are 17.x" its killing me. I don't mind the long sleeves but the shoulders are a deal breaker. I'm about to give up. I say that and then @ton312 will post another pic prompting me to start the hunt all over again.

 

[navetsea]

My type 3s have shoulder to shoulder measured across the the top back at least 2-3 cm shorter than my usual need, so my shoulder ball is inside the sleeve to get the torso fit I like. But since the sleeve is normal length, they tend to be short on me. Longer sleeve on denim is easy just cuff the the sleeve up, showing the chain stitch along the cuff


Supermarket brand Dashboard bracket works, soon ill be taking jacket pics stealthily like ninja with different backgrounds..... most likely quiet parking lots

Type3 indigo x black

 

[El Marro]

Once again, found another Japanese denim jacket I liked and the shoulders are 17.x" its killing me. I don't mind the long sleeves but the shoulders are a deal breaker. I'm about to give up. I say that and then @ton312 will post another pic prompting me to start the hunt all over again.

Check out this IH type 3 from Self Edge

http://www.selfedge.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1872

This was the first IH type 3 I found with wide enough shoulders to fit me comfortably. I wanted one of their heavier denims in the overdye, but the numbers just didn’t work for me.

 

[SinSir]

Check out this IH type 3 from Self Edge

http://www.selfedge.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1872

This was the first IH type 3 I found with wide enough shoulders to fit me comfortably. I wanted one of their heavier denims in the overdye, but the numbers just didn’t work for me.

That's the thing going by the chart a 41 or 42.5 chest is 16.5 or 17.5 shoulders. Even if I did do a 44 chest its only 18 shoulders. It could work but not ideal. I appreciate the suggestion though it just may be the way I'll have to go.

 

[navetsea]

16oz modified type 2 today

 

[Jrolfe]

Nobody wore one quite like this guy (the one on the right ):

View attachment 202046

Is that Paul Newman in a Lee storm rider?


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[barnabus]

This Type II arrived yesterday. It's certainly a lovely jacket, but I'm uncertain about the fit.

It's around 3/4" shorter than my daily wear borg-lined Type III, but seems to wear considerably shorter than that. And it's pretty snug through the torso.

I've taken a bunch of pictures to show you, with some jeans at my usual rise, and a typical plain old t. Pictures taken both with t shirt untucked, how I always wear it, and with t shirt tucked in, to show relative length. The pictures show it straight out of the packing, with some weird creases that will need to be dealt with - so don't pay any attention to those.

Oddly though, as I've tried it on again this evening, having decided yesterday to exchange it for the next size up, I'm not feeling quite as strait-jacketed by it as I was. Hmm.

Opinions please. What does tfl think?

Seems astonishing that I'd just bought this Type II back at the end of March last year, but nonetheless that's the case.

My doubts about the sizing never really evaporated, but even so I've been wearing the jacket pretty much all the time*. As a jacket, as a mid layer, wev. And it's not been washed yet, at all.

So I've got a couple of evo photos here. Deliberately not fit pictures, because I'm frankly amazed at how the sleeves (especially) have creased up, and if I was wearing it in the photos then it wouldn't be apparent how much of it was the jacket itself.

I've also stumbled on a fantastic trick that really breaks in denim work wear well. It would work for leather jackets too, i think:

Use it as actual work wear.


*apart from the whole of October and November last year, as I was convalescing from when I fell over in the road.

 

[barnabus]

Seems astonishing that I'd just bought this Type II back at the end of March last year, but nonetheless that's the case.

My doubts about the sizing never really evaporated, but even so I've been wearing the jacket pretty much all the time*. As a jacket, as a mid layer, wev. And it's not been washed yet, at all.

So I've got a couple of evo photos here. Deliberately not fit pictures, because I'm frankly amazed at how the sleeves (especially) have creased up, and if I was wearing it in the photos then it wouldn't be apparent how much of it was the jacket itself.

I've also stumbled on a fantastic trick that really breaks in denim work wear well. It would work for leather jackets too, i think:

Use it as actual work wear.


*apart from the whole of October and November last year, as I was convalescing from when I fell over in the road.

That said, I will do some fit pics in the next couple of days anyway. Once I get the chance with some daylight.

 

[navetsea]

cant wait to see how it looks

My own type2 is looking brand new, no fade no carved in creases, perhaps has to do with roomier fit, and being not starchy from the start. But the denim makes me want it not to fade.
My type3s do light fading , nothing contrast yet, the kendogi fabrics on one of the type3 fades quickly also during washing and i can see mismatching fade between panels now, but the fabric is interesting looking enough for me to like it still

The copper in the brass button oxidizing the fabrics it touches to magenta, you can see it on the pocket flap and on the ridge bellow the collar that touches the top button frequently have turned purplish, all in all the jacket being the newest now looking the oldest

 

[Docxm]

Bravestar Ironside in 13.5oz Loomstate Cone Mills!

 

[navetsea]

Great fit, and the star is nice accent, but is that exposed selfedge on one of the waist adjuster?

 

[Trenchfriend]

I never thought, that I would like slim-fit jeans that much. But now, I like slim-fit indeed same as my good old regular-fit. In Germany, there are really nice slim-fit ones around, some even with just 1% elasthane!
I bought two fine storebrand slim-fit jeans the last days at Clemens & August (which I normally avoid) and they are really not "Cheap & Awful".
But costing 40 Euro each, that's probably the point. And they are true-to-size!

 

[navetsea]

I used to buy slimfit all my life, they always look good for average built people, I hate it when they are too short though, here many mall jeans are mostly too short on me it fit me but doesn't have any stacking at all, and have to pull down any bunched part when standing up from sitting.

Since the thread is revived

type2 and properly long slimfit I like today

Vs
Mall barely long enough slimfit the other day

 

[Trenchfriend]

I used to buy slimfit all my life, they always look good for average built people, I hate it when they are too short though, here many mall jeans are mostly too short on me it fit me but doesn't have any stacking at all, and have to pull down any bunched part when standing up from sitting.

Since the thread is revived

type2 and properly long slimfit I like

Are there really no longer sizes on the same waist size, for you?

 

[navetsea]

Are there really no longer sizes on the same waist size, for you?

Not on lokal cheap brands, inseam around 30" mostly, i often need to alter to open the hem and make it smaller to get another 1 - 1,5cm out of it. I never buy levis lately though, maybe they have options on proper well stocked counter, but here compared to lokal brands at comparable price point, it make no sense to buy levis since it would be far too inferior both in material and construction details.... unless someone love that red tab and arc so much.

 

[Edward]

Couldn't agree more. I feel like IH could chop 1" off body and sleeve across the size range in most cases. I feel there's a bit of too short paranoia in the patterns. But given the fact that (for the most part) they don't shrink, I find it unfounded.

I suspect a lot comes doewn to the fact that many denimheads don't appreciate vintage as such, and need a jacket that sits long enough to meet what is nowadays called a "waistband", despite sitting several inches below the natural waist.

 

[navetsea]

I think they want the jacket to cover untucked tshirt, a lot of jeans in raw has higher waist than typical generic jeans, but unlike the old days. lots of denim wearing guys wear it with untucked tshirt or shirt

 

[El Marro]

I think they want the jacket to cover untucked tshirt, a lot of jeans in raw has higher waist than typical generic jeans, but unlike the old days. lots of denim wearing guys wear it with untucked tshirt or shirt

That’s it exactly! I was wondering the other day when I put on my IH overdye type 3 why the damn thing came down so low that it covered my back pockets almost entirely. I thought to myself that even the lowest of low rise jeans aren’t down there, that would be indecent exposure! The untucked shirt theory is spot on. It’s unfortunate too because every time I put on that jacket I get caught up on the length and end up taking it right back off.