Denim Jackets - New or Vintage

[navetsea]

Pleats on the front, it has some use, they expand a little here and there when i sit, or squat or when buttoning the jacket, it gives,some extra flex on the jacket, and due to those rectangular stiching they retract in neatly, but to me i just like it as it looks like shark's gill, but it makes the pockets to be pushed outward and with lowset pocket, the outside of their flaps are brushing against my sleeve and maybe will trigger early fades.

 

[navetsea]

I found 'em to be doing a surprisingly good job at making the jacket a lot more comfortable than the regular Type-3 and allowing for a much greater reach. The back pleats especially, they acted like mini shoulder gussets. I was quite surprised with how functional they are but then again, I don't know if it's the same on any jacket ever.

The V-shaped seams on III don't do anything, yep.

I just can't seem to learn to like the Type-1 but they're fantastic jackets.

My type 2 has type 1 back, not only the cinch but also the fold of the upper and lower pleats are different, on type 2 back indeed the upper back might work like action gusset since they are folded with recessed part facing toward the shoulder like full action back, but on type 1 back the pleats are folded with recessed part toward the center to accomodate the cinch action, but it doest work so well and make the center of the back developing random creases whenever you rest your back against something

 

[navetsea]

This was the back when the jacket was raw, the upper and lower pleats will find their way to make separate random creases, even when they come with connected iron pressed creases as guide. And that was when the jacket dry as raw, after soaked wet it looked 500% worse, if you search for type 1 back photo online, they all look like hot mess, even worse when the wearer actually use the cinch, and even worse when the fabric is heavier than what type1 originally was made of, as heavier fabric doesnt drape so well and makes even more random looking accidental creases, i cant stand such randomness

 

[ton312]

The pleats do actually help with ease in the type I and II. It’s hard to understand how or why but they do. I personally don’t care for them. On my IH type I I keep thinking how I’d like the jacket so much more without them. The back on my type I has pleats at the hem and shoulder but no belt. I think the type III is my favorite pattern.

 

[navetsea]

Here is mine after my mod.

Im OK with these now, still some action back going, but strictly guided

 

[navetsea]

Both my type3 and type 2 have the same chest size on their measurement chart, but this jacket easily fit 2 size bigger guy, since the back was very generous when the pleats are deployed which was originally 100 % of the time it is easily 5 cm extra width across the back on mine

 

[navetsea]

The pleats do actually help with ease in the type I and II. It’s hard to understand how or why but they do. I personally don’t care for them. On my IH type I I keep thinking how I’d like the jacket so much more without them. The back on my type I has pleats at the hem and shoulder but no belt. I think the type III is my favorite pattern.
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At least you have the mass to fully filled the jacket, looks much worse on thinner guy, but i agree type3 make it wear like a corset, also visually looks more athletic with all the V

 

[b1lf]

The pleats do actually help with ease in the type I and II. It’s hard to understand how or why but they do. I personally don’t care for them. On my IH type I I keep thinking how I’d like the jacket so much more without them. The back on my type I has pleats at the hem and shoulder but no belt. I think the type III is my favorite pattern.
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That’s a killer fit man.... I’m normally not a Type 1 fan but that’s legit. I think the pleats add to the look (in a positive way).


That said, I still agree the Type 3 is my favorite pattern.

 

[navetsea]

Came back from driving in it, seated against back rest and the arm extended on the steering doesnt do good for a jacket with pleated back, but still better than before imo.
Wearing a back pack would also messing up a pleated back i think so using my bike wont help either since i usually carry my stuff in a backpack. The fabrics has some character i guess, looks more salt and pepper and grainy up close compared to my other denim.

 

[John Lukich]

I received the Momotaro 2105SP, and it's not even worth throwing up a picture. Waist is way too trim, and even if that was ok, I can barely flex my arms due to the tight sleeves. Definitely sending back. Next try is a Sugar Cane 1953.

 

[Downunder G Man]

Arriving at a home in Perth Western Australia very soon.

Vintage Yellow Levi's Trucker Style Denim Jacket Xl

 

[Monitor]

I received the Momotaro 2105SP, and it's not even worth throwing up a picture. Waist is way too trim, and even if that was ok, I can barely flex my arms due to the tight sleeves. Definitely sending back. Next try is a Sugar Cane 1953.

Sorry to hear that... Looks so nice on the photos.

 

[b1lf]

I received the Momotaro 2105SP, and it's not even worth throwing up a picture. Waist is way too trim, and even if that was ok, I can barely flex my arms due to the tight sleeves. Definitely sending back. Next try is a Sugar Cane 1953.

Did you check measurements before ordering....?

Try the next size up.......

 

[Boyo]

I received the Momotaro 2105SP, and it's not even worth throwing up a picture. Waist is way too trim, and even if that was ok, I can barely flex my arms due to the tight sleeves. Definitely sending back. Next try is a Sugar Cane 1953.

Mister Freedom just had a re-stock of this one.. its not cheap but if the measurements work out for you i don't think you'll be disappointed.

FABRIC:
“Okinawa 301”, a hairy 14 Oz. left-hand twill indigo denim, white with green line selvedge ID. Milled in Japan on narrow shuttle looms, from a blend of 50% Okinawan recycled sugar cane fibers and 50% cotton.

 

[John Lukich]

Did you check measurements before ordering....?

Try the next size up.......

Measurements are not consistent across any two merchants... Also, shoulders, chest, sleeve length, and body length were fine. Waist isn't super commonly listed and I've never seen sleeve width listed before. I could not bend my arm past 90. Don't think that's going to change with a size up.

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[b1lf]

Measurements are not consistent across any two merchants... Also, shoulders, chest, sleeve length, and body length were fine. Waist isn't super commonly listed and I've never seen sleeve width listed before. I could not bend my arm past 90. Don't think that's going to change with a size up.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

Message the merchant you purchased it from and have them provide the measurements you want for the current size you have, and the next size up.

 

[b1lf]

I have no particular allegiance to Strike Gold stuff... but their Type II can be found on Self Edge's current warehouse sale:

https://www.selfedge.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1994&limit=10000


From $330 on sale for $240.

 

[Gamma68]

Thoughts on this Flint and Tinder flannel-lined waxed cotton “trucker”?

https://huckberry.com/store/flint-and-tinder/category/p/55166-flannel-lined-waxed-trucker-jacket

 

[John Lukich]

Sugar Cane 1953 Type 2 in Self Edge's modified length. Post soak. Happy with this fit and excited to break it in when summer is over. That being said, it's 92F here in Budapest and I don't think this thing is leaving the house for 3+ months, lol

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[navetsea]

nice collar on that one