Denim Jackets - New or Vintage

[Captain Sensible]

My size L 3sixteen is 21.5 p2p, and 18.5 s2s if that helps.

 

[navetsea]

I think I picked the size that fit snugly over my real chest size, sacrificed the sleeve a little on my denim jacket, i would think the total opposite on my leather jacket.

 

[John Lukich]

I realllllllly like the Momotaro 2105SP. Measurements seem a bit inconsistent on different sites, so I picked up what seems the most likely to fit. Picked up from Okayama Denim and could have gotten 10% off, but then wouldn't have the option to return if the fit doesn't work.

Inspiration:
https://www.heddels.com/2015/03/fad...ocket-jacket-2105sp-2-years-2-washes-2-soaks/

@ton312 why the heck did you get rid of the CR?!

 

[Bern1]

Ton, that Iron Heart 526PJ looks really great. I might finally be getting this denim thing....
The only denim jacket I have right now is one of those 80's baggy oversized Levi's with handwarmer pockets. I've had it since new and still wear it. Maybe I'll step up to the "real" thing.
Your dog also clearly approves!

 

[ton312]

Ton, that Iron Heart 526PJ looks really great. I might finally be getting this denim thing....
The only denim jacket I have right now is one of those 80's baggy oversized Levi's with handwarmer pockets. I've had it since new and still wear it. Maybe I'll step up to the "real" thing.
Your dog also clearly approves!

I can honestly say without hesitation that this is the only jacket I’ll never get rid or tired of. When it fails I’ll immediately buy another.

 

[ksozay]

I can honestly say without hesitation that this is the only jacket I’ll never get rid or tired of. When it fails I’ll immediately buy another.

 

[Rosecitymike]

I can honestly say without hesitation that this is the only jacket I’ll never get rid or tired of. When it fails I’ll immediately buy another.

At 21 oz, unless you’re bear wrasslin’, that chore will probably fall to a grandchild!

I’ve been contemplating getting one of these—my superblack no fade (9526PJ) needs an indigo brother. It kills me that sizing isn’t consistent across these models. To get the same P2P on the 526 as my 9526 I have to go from 3XL to 4XL and then some of the other measurements like shoulder and sleeve are a little different. Come on IH, pick a pattern and stick with it!

 

[Ernest P Shackleton]

Just remembered this... How long have I been looking at this thread? I have a Levi type III from the very late 70s or early 80s. It has the buffalo plaid flannel lining, so maybe that dates it? Or, more accurately, it had the buffalo plaid flannel lining. I remember washing it (regular washing with cold water and line drying), and for no apparent reason, the flannel had basically disintegrated. A washing and putting away for the season, and the flannel had become tissue paper delicate. I don't think I ever wore it again because I didn't know what to do with it. Whether to just continue tearing the plaid out or leave it alone and deal with it somehow, someday. I opted for the latter. It's been packed away for many years now.

My question is: was that common for the buffalo plaid material to do that? Or did some isolated weirdness occur with my jacket?

 

[b1lf]

Ton, that Iron Heart 526PJ looks really great. I might finally be getting this denim thing....
The only denim jacket I have right now is one of those 80's baggy oversized Levi's with handwarmer pockets. I've had it since new and still wear it. Maybe I'll step up to the "real" thing.
Your dog also clearly approves!

If you're just getting into denim, you have an entire world to discover. Especially if you're into leather jackets, there's nothing better to pair one with than a nice pair of selvedge denim jeans.

This being a denim jacket thread however, I definitely think a quality denim jacket is a must-have staple in the closet as well. Serves a different purpose: easy to roll up and chuck in luggage when traveling. More breathable than a leather jacket. Not as warm so it fills the gap in that temp range, etc.



Levi's makes some decent stuff. They're a staple for a reason and their current fits are really on point. It's just their material and construction can't even compare to the new(ish) wave of Japanese material, Japanese/USA made, stuff.

(Yes this includes Levi's Made & Crafted line with Cone Mills denim; that is still relatively lackluster in my opinion)

 

[Monitor]

@b1lf , just wanna say I really appreciate all the info. I'll try to look up 3sixteen as now you've gotten me really interested in how they fit. They aren't too pricey. Less so than Levi's heritage line.

And yep, agreed on Levi's current fit being on point. It's the best I've ever seen them do. Everything I've tried on this winter fit really good, including the leather Type-3.

 

[b1lf]

@b1lf , just wanna say I really appreciate all the info. I'll try to look up 3sixteen as now you've gotten me really interested in how they fit. They aren't too pricey. Less so than Levi's heritage line.

And yep, agreed on Levi's current fit being on point. It's the best I've ever seen them do. Everything I've tried on this winter fit really good, including the leather Type-3.

No worries, I know quite a bit about denim so I’m happy to share!

Again, that particular jacket from 3sixteen runs very small, but if you upsize accordingly or just look at the measurements, the fit is killer.

 

[Ernest P Shackleton]

Is there such a thing as a Lee denim jacket with a corduroy collar without the blanket lining?

 

[Zombie_61]

Is there such a thing as a Lee denim jacket with a corduroy collar without the blanket lining?

Not that I'm aware of. Even the listings on evilBay for old/used/moreholesthanswisscheese Lee denim jackets with the corduroy collar all mention the blanket lining.

 

[navetsea]

So in the middle of thunderstorm motorcycle courier lady came to deliver my jacket, it is a modified type ii with type i back, and i asked for tonal stitching, slant pocket flap (apparently the whole pocket is made slanted just ever so slightly instead of only the flap), and rivets on the pleats and on the cinch (they forgot the rivet on the cinch but its fine) maybe later i will ask for it when order workpants. On the inside there are 2 dedicated inside pockets with selvedge edge so it is very low profile, clean, and spacious, but with raw blue indigo on the inside that will stain the paperback cover, workmanship looks solid.
Made by Ironclad denim
Waiting time is 1,5 month which is very acceptable, i order it through instagram and Whatsapp.

 

[navetsea]

Post soak worn from wet to dry.

I was tinkering the shoulder-sleeve angle like on my previous denim jacket

and lower back to make it more cinchable.

Now it tapers more less boxy on me on the back

 

[Monitor]

That's a nice jacket, Nave! Pleats really add comfort to this design, don't they. I had one Type 2 by Lee.

 

[Zombie_61]

That's a nice jacket, Nave! Pleats really add comfort to this design, don't they...

Do they? They don't appear to serve any real purpose, so I think they're as unnecessary as the V-shaped seams on the front of the Type III. But then, my tastes tend to run towards more simple/conservative designs so what do I know?

 

[Monitor]

Do they? They don't appear to serve any real purpose, so I think they're as unnecessary as the V-shaped seams on the front of the Type III. But then, my tastes tend to run towards more simple/conservative designs so what do I know?

I found 'em to be doing a surprisingly good job at making the jacket a lot more comfortable than the regular Type-3 and allowing for a much greater reach. The back pleats especially, they acted like mini shoulder gussets. I was quite surprised with how functional they are but then again, I don't know if it's the same on any jacket ever.

The V-shaped seams on III don't do anything, yep.

I just can't seem to learn to like the Type-1 but they're fantastic jackets.

 

[Zombie_61]

I found 'em to be doing a surprisingly good job at making the jacket a lot more comfortable than the regular Type-3 and allowing for a much greater reach. The back pleats especially, they acted like mini shoulder gussets. I was quite surprised with how functional they are but then again, I don't know if it's the same on any jacket ever.

I understand the pleats/gussets on the back because they provide a greater/unrestricted range of motion. But on the front? They might serve some practical purpose, but if they do it currently eludes me.

 

[navetsea]

Well on the back it has some use because suddenly the back is much wider than spec measurement like it is at least 1 size bigger than my type 3 around the chest with the same p to p( i suspect they measure the chest with the back pleats neatly folded in), but they look sloppy and ever deployed when unneeded unlike shoulder gusset, especially when it is cinched and when worn wet post soak the back looks like a disaster , thats why i need to fold the hem belt into inward pleats so it doesnt stick out and also i mod the back to separate the back shoulder pleat to limit it half way its length by ending it half way down the back with a pair of hand sewn points to force the pleat to retract when not needed, and the lower back pleats is used to guide the cinched excess material to fold in nicer, it sort of working now, not very springy unlike leather but it is much neater than originally.