Want to buy or sell something? Check the classifieds
  • The Fedora Lounge is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Dating Outerwear by zipper design

tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,700
Location
Illinois
DSC01011.JPG
DSC01021.JPG
DSC01024.JPG
DSC01025.JPG
DSC01117.JPG
DSC01125.JPG
DSC01126.JPG
DSC01151.JPG
DSC01156.JPG
DSC01157.JPG
 

photo2u

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,345
Location
claremont california
Interesting! Keep up the information on the Crowns! I don't see many and don't know much about them.

I will be posting some images of my jackets with some vintage early 30s talons and some military crowns. You know, some makers like Cal leathers,trojans, Langlitz and some others did use the #7 gold spring-loaded crowns. Lost worlds at one point was selling them with their jackets. I think that was the biggest zippers in the late 40s and early 50s used in civilian garment manufacturing. Big zippers were always available, but for what ever reason some jacket makers did not use them often. It was not until mid 50s when talon, conmar and others began to show in to civilian jackets. The military, much earlier, began the use of #10 zips on their gear. Most noticeable in Korea.
 

tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,700
Location
Illinois
That Fashion clothes jacket is incredible. I let one of their cross-zips slip through my fingers years ago. Never forgotten.

You have mentioned that jacket before. You don't have a pic, correct?

Fashion Clothes was a retail store in San Francisco. This jacket was made by Ralphs-Pugh. The oldest RP jacket I own, c.1937. I recall seeing another Fashion Clothes label, but don't recall the garment-not a jacket I recall.
 

photo2u

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,345
Location
claremont california
I Love it too! Near Mint in Capeskin, the nicest vintage jacket I will probably ever own. Size 42.

Best example of a Sunrise Talon.

AM-JKLWy_2NrDDql1yS2fOeEFC0wN-b0L5yglH81zFqe036RVYBSNvreqGcx4iXrP3Huz4CcyLz9eE5gNx_LjBu4iNDnDn7Y7JmBzSRhjZUzqrihA8oRiqPVs9KmX4pJZ8fdYXyp8KXiG1AcwOP7LGe_6yU_7w=w1195-h672-no


AM-JKLUz06PZzbjWLwHqNgRsTkaOxNZ5chWGzVx11SXFZNVdOzHPgayZqLccnEKHDwq7dVAKquumI9ModhYWwHqTWxEs7P-TjFyXSgHiAKNij4V5JUARptW_dNcfFAq4erDDoRZ9P-k2J3evoEWB-uCML_-7_Q=w1195-h672-no


AM-JKLVB_Y3K2-DnSMLj8UlzHDS4vD6K3yIktLvhYRBpb4goK6inl1G1rfXB037ZUkMXXzKmqQibSTTzBxVVJAj8sfyDAbiB7xN0JtW2OCO6XUkRjkE_Nsh33Ir_bWI2T3rANPWdJy80oBDf3_BkqRkp7ltSCQ=w1195-h672-no


AM-JKLVUfkKEAmDxZjH52Hu5jiPbTyO5gYNRtXaqMG4-FT9kzdzTFFXWPG2pXRBMYkIgGiLlE-RhHyrbLSRS9R70rEM6CDVP6DHzilxManeDUq24x4ERCGhnNcD3XcMtG0kCx-Rwm5eb0nLbz3rJFOli_m-hkw=w753-h672-no

YOU're stating this is your favorite is quite something... Some of the coolest jackets I have ever seen have passed through your very lucky and sage hands. This jacket must be a site to see. The jacket is spot on you. Californian are quite something. Back on the day when I was in high school, I saw this guy wearing a Californian half belt. I thought it was the coolest jacket in the world. A clean design with top leather and hardware is the ultimate in leather coolness. Sir, you wear it well.
 
Messages
10,598
You have mentioned that jacket before. You don't have a pic, correct?

Fashion Clothes was a retail store in San Francisco. This jacket was made by Ralphs-Pugh. The oldest RP jacket I own, c.1937. I recall seeing another Fashion Clothes label, but don't recall the garment-not a jacket I recall.

I don’t think so. I need to go into my detachable drive and see.
 

Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,293
Look at the lower center left of your jacket carefully, It appears from the picture the zipper was added later.

It first I wanted to prove you're wrong by showing you these pics...

14E6D054-A7A3-4610-B12B-563282AE1264.jpeg
DE7AF2F6-558D-46FB-A682-4CF1003249C7.jpeg
4D33AFED-2E60-43E3-A826-AD0DBF5B7B8B.jpeg
1CDE38A9-D67B-4EA1-B4B5-2705217A1018.jpeg
F6DB7EEA-D66D-49C5-AA00-A6CADF22BAC2.jpeg



But then I saw this...I first thought those were indentations were from the zipper teeth but if you pull it tight it shows actual needle holes. You're absolutely right, it is a replacement. Sharp eye.

0EB79BA1-63E0-4B13-99B0-42955DB2EC89.jpeg


This type of crown zipper was strictly military very robust and built like a tank!

This is the sturdiest zipper I've ever handled, new or vintage.
 

tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,700
Location
Illinois
But then I saw this...I first thought those were indentations were from the zipper teeth but if you pull it tight it shows actual needle holes. You're absolutely right, it is a replacement. Sharp eye.

Sharp eye indeed! I was thinking original too. Zipper replacement, like this, throw a monkey wrench in the jacket dating. On this one I don't know which is older; the jacket or the Zipper?
 

tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,700
Location
Illinois
Conmar imitation of a Talon.

s-l1600.jpg


This Talon is seen on a 1958 Hercules jacket.

AM-JKLWNVcSkSqGyMmJkH2_VJFvwdEJ5mcessTLhqBx7MMOCZiDnSq9b8nrpU6MnyRrxTdSzWwf_IELMJjyxU_US-dYKw_y3pAYOF_fe5F9_CxXlnd2G5DYkVawGlLF-pkL4ZijIqVFRuRF3Ndu7mij49MyXrw=w1012-h672-no



This is the jacket for the Conmar. Looks like Steerhide Hercules unlabeled or missing the Hercules label from the late 50s/early 60s. Perhaps an early Oakbrook with red lining.

s-l1600.jpg


s-l1600.jpg


s-l1600.jpg


s-l1600.jpg
 

photo2u

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,345
Location
claremont california
Sharp eye indeed! I was thinking original too. Zipper replacement, like this, throw a monkey wrench in the jacket dating. On this one I don't know which is older; the jacket or the Zipper?

The jacket is older. Those zippers were made very late designed 30s but were not in the hand of manufactures until around 41. By the time a civilian got their hands was when the garments used in the war were discarded as war-surplus. I am just stating what a friend WWII pilot shared with me. About 20 years ago, He and I worked as volunteers at a museum in Chino, California. I have also restored many items that had those zippers. However, many things are possible. A person could have access to these zippers from the manufactures and kept some for themselves as souvenirs or for a special project. By looking at the pull. It appears the person was caring and committed to make something nice. This zipper was selected because the person wanted a bulletproof zipper for his special jacket.
 

tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,700
Location
Illinois
The jacket is older. Those zippers were made very late designed 30s but were not in the hand of manufactures until around 41. By the time a civilian got their hands was when the garments used in the war were discarded as war-surplus

Ok, I am thinking along the same lines. I've owned many replacement zips, but never one this dramatic and well done.
 

photo2u

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,345
Location
claremont california
I personally like to do it by hand. I think is a great method. Time-consuming but it works for me. When I used to restored items, I would try to do everything by hand. In those days, the servo motors in sewing machines were not available for a person like me. Jackets with a high stitch count per inch are EASIER to fool the eye. However, several other things did not make sense with the jacket, stitching and zipper. Bottom line, The jacket is very special. The zipper has been on the jacket for a long time. Who ever used this zipper was a leap forward in jacket functionality.
 

tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,700
Location
Illinois
I personally like to do it by hand. I think is a great method.

How much time is involved doing by hand? I do have a sewing machine that can do it. I'm going to learn how to replace zippers this winter!!! I have several jackets that I can practice replacing zippers. I'm going to do it!! I need to do something more creative than just buying and selling jackets.
 

Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,293
The jacket is older. Those zippers were made very late designed 30s but were not in the hand of manufactures until around 41. By the time a civilian got their hands was when the garments used in the war were discarded as war-surplus. I am just stating what a friend WWII pilot shared with me. About 20 years ago, He and I worked as volunteers at a museum in Chino, California. I have also restored many items that had those zippers. However, many things are possible. A person could have access to these zippers from the manufactures and kept some for themselves as souvenirs or for a special project. By looking at the pull. It appears the person was caring and committed to make something nice. This zipper was selected because the person wanted a bulletproof zipper for his special jacket.
This is great info, thanks for sharing.
I always thought the zipper looked somewhat odd to the jacket (it's a German/European jacket style). It came out the inventory of a Cologne theater.

4187652B-C06D-4769-8166-ED3FF92E6948.jpeg
 
Messages
10,598
How much time is involved doing by hand? I do have a sewing machine that can do it. I'm going to learn how to replace zippers this winter!!! I have several jackets that I can practice replacing zippers. I'm going to do it!! I need to do something more creative than just buying and selling jackets.

Awesome!! Then I can start sending jackets your way to work on. Lol.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
109,009
Messages
3,072,589
Members
54,037
Latest member
GloriaJama
Top