Dating Outerwear by zipper design

[tmitchell59]

This Hercules dates to 1956. You do not see Crown zippers often on Hercules products.

 

[tmitchell59]

Foster Horsehide cafe racer. early 60s

Not a Talon-good example of imitation of Talon by other makers. This is marked Scovill.

Big T main zipper. This jacket is early to mid 1960s

 

[tmitchell59]

Early 60s Oakbrook with Scovill Gripper zipper

 

[tmitchell59]

Another early-mid 60s-Scovill

 

[tmitchell59]

Gold label Brooks 60-70s-All Talon zippers

 

[tmitchell59]

Triple marked Talon I mentioned above with beveled edge on the slider. These date early 40s.

 

[tmitchell59]

This Hercules is a good example of dating the jacket by the zipper. This was a common style in the Sears Catalog through out the 50s so the zipper helps identify it has earlier 50s.

The Conmar Zipper has Conmar on the stop. This was used by Talon in the late 40s. So I date the Conmar to this same time. C.1950

 

[JMax]

This Hercules is a good example of dating the jacket by the zipper. This was a common style in the Sears Catalog through out the 50s so the zipper helps identify it has earlier 50s.

The Conmar Zipper has Conmar on the stop. This was used by Talon in the late 40s. So I date the Conmar to this same time. C.1950

Cool. I always thought my straight zip Cal was late 40s, early 50s. Based on the hide and label. This helps confirm. It has the Conmar zip with Conmar on the stop.

 

[tmitchell59]

Cool. I always thought my straight zip Cal was late 40s, early 50s. Based on the hide and label. This helps confirm. It has the Conmar zip with Conmar on the stop.

A perfect example of using all the parts to confirm or deny each other. Your suspicious were proven accurate through the combination of facts.

When you go into the 50s thing just stay the same>unitil you get this in 1958. My guess this is around the time this zipper pull began. It was soon met with copies by most of the other makers. Again, date the Talon=dates for the others.

 

[tmitchell59]

Based on the hide

Yes, I based part of my Hercules dating on that hide and finish. That takes a lot of experience. If folks read this will be well informed on dating leather jackets or other forms of outerwear.

I have one zip I need to date. I will get pictures and start the wheels turning.

 

[Marc mndt]

Early Crown. It's interesting that it doesn't have a metal pull and it looks like that's by design. I don't think the leather pull is an after thought since it's in the same hide as the jacket.

 

[photo2u]

Early Crown. It's interesting that it doesn't have a metal pull and it looks like that's by design. I don't think the leather pull is an after thought since it's in the same hide as the jacket.

View attachment 377884 View attachment 377885 View attachment 377886 View attachment 377887

Nice images! Which jacket is that? The pull for that zip was a simple cloth hanger type, usually pair with a leather pull.

 

[Marc mndt]

Nice images! Which jacket is that? The pull for that zip was a simple cloth hanger type, usually pair with a leather pull.

There's no maker's label

 

[photo2u]

What a beauty! The design and construction is consistent with 30s craftsmanship. The zipper looks to me like a later addition to wonderful jacket.

 

[Marc mndt]

The zipper looks to me like a later addition to wonderful jacket.

I'm 100% certain the zipper is original to the jacket. Can you date the zipper?

 

[photo2u]

The zipper was used a lot in the early 40s. Used in airplane turret Windows. It was also used in flight gear and boots. I remember trading some of this type of "quick release" boots to a jacket maker from England some 20 years ago.
This type of crown zipper was strictly military very robust and built like a tank! Look at the lower center left of your jacket carefully, It appears from the picture the zipper was added later. Also, look at the inside seams zipper seams. That can give you more insight.
Two days ago, someone shares an image of a Cal leathers I have never seen before and sporting this type of military zippers on a utility civilian jacket. Maybe is one of a kind made by a military person who also constructed jackets? The jacket does looks like a very personal custom job.! Probably the only one in existence...

 

[photo2u]

These are some I photograph three days ago? Some are talon, others have the spring-loaded puller that Stu markets so well for 250.

 

[tmitchell59]

These are some I photograph three days ago? Some are talon, others have the spring-loaded puller that Stu markets so well for 250. View attachment 377956

Interesting! Keep up the information on the Crowns! I don't see many and don't know much about them.

 

[tmitchell59]

These below will be 30s early 40s time frame. Most will have a "Sunrsise" stop.

 

[tmitchell59]