D-Pocket leather jackets

[Edward]

I love the lining on this one. Looks to be the same (type and pattern) wool that Aero use on the Waterfront models. Very tempting, though possibly a bit warm for when I'd wear it.

Question for TFL experts, if you guys don't mind; I've been looking into D-pockets from Sears, and I notice that there are a lot of design variation between the jackets. I know that as the time was going by, they simplified the design; cigarette pocket became interior pocket, removable belt got replaced with the attached half-belt, etc. but what I'm most confused about is the sleeve zippers: Early ads always depict these jackets with sleeve zippers being placed on top of the sleeves, but I've only really seen a few of these jackets with such sleeve zipper configuration - even the supposedly earliest examples have sleeve zippers placed on the back seam of the sleeve, regardless of who was making the jacket for Sears. So, I was just wondering, was this really a random thing, or was there some rule to it, as for example, do only the earliest jackets have top sleeve zippers or..?

Bretron's Sears from the classifides, back sleeve zippers:

...what appears to be the exact same model, top sleeve zippers:

 

[Monitor]

Dinerman, thank you for the links - in fact, your blog was the one I was going through while searching for more info about these jackets. You mean hey had multiple contractors at once? That certainly explains everything. Jackets on the pictures I've posted would be the 1951 version of the jacket; http://vintageleatherjackets.blogspot.com/2014/06/1951-d-pocket.html 'Warm woolen plain lining', same kidney pannel, belt loops, D-pocket details; it's a perfect match - and yet, different sleeve zipper configuration. 1953 version altered the design considerably - red nylon lining, attached belt, etc., though still advertised with top sleeve zippers.

I don't get the 1952 version, though. Looks more like one of the J's from Buco than Sears, especially considering how the 1951 ad doesn't show a chest pocket to begin with. That's all very interesting stuff...

Here's another interesting variation that's recently been sold through eBay - Hercules, horse hide, red quilted nylon lining but check out the bottom of the jacket:

Edward; yep, that's my favorite version of the jacket. This type of lining really works for it. Fantastic jackets!

 

[tmitchell59]

Mid 50s Hercules Horshide D pocket. Marked as a 46 and fits like one. Pictured with the Sportclad, also marked as a 46. More pictures here.

 

[bretron]

Man I wished that Herc fit me. Coolest jacket I've ever owned

 

[Monitor]

I was about to ask what's the D-pocket in the other thread. Man, what a jacket. And how well it fits you! I'm seriously beginning to like the Sears/Hercules more than the Buco.

tmitchell or bretron, how's this particular type of bi-swing/action back holding up to full action back?

 

[bretron]

Monitor I'm probably not the guy to ask because I don't still have this jacket and in general I am not a bi-swing fan. But purely because I'm a style whore, and prefer the sleek look of a jacket sans biswing

 

[tmitchell59]

i never knew what a action back or bi-swing meant. I heard it here first. I don't care much. I think it has do with the jacket and the wearer. This Hercules is a big jacket. I don't recall the numbers, but it fits me like a 46. Nice heavy leather. It is in fine condition, does needs some seam work. Very different jacket than the Sportclad. The Sportclad is the perfect fit and feel for me. This Herc is just a size too big. Here is a short vid.

The sleeves are really big on this Herc, the Sportclad sleeves zip up like skin, just perfect.

[video=youtube;ihD_p6iTJso]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ihD_p6iTJso[/video]

 

[tmitchell59]

I was about to ask what's the D-pocket in the other thread. Man, what a jacket. And how well it fits you! I'm seriously beginning to like the Sears/Hercules more than the Buco.

tmitchell or bretron, how's this particular type of bi-swing/action back holding up to full action back?

The Buco I see for sale are crazy expensive. I have never handled one so maybe they are worth the price of admission. The Hercs are quality made jackets and seem a bargain in comparison. I would be hard pressed to find a better jacket than the Sportclad in that style, just works for me. I've got another early 40s Police/Service jacket I will get posted.

 

[nick123]

Tm, your videos are most helpful. Thanks for taking the time.

 

[Monitor]

Yes, it is great and informative especially regarding the fit to see these jackets in motion, so I too really appreciate the videos! I was thinking of asking if you planned on doing a video of it, how much I love these Sears D-pockets, but figured it might be a bit weird. As for the bi-swing, it's very useful for riding. I'm asking because I find little use of shoulder gussets, while full action back makes all the difference, so I was wondering how's this style of action back in comparison. Seems like it's really short in the back.

 

[Big J]

Dinerman, thank you for the links - in fact, your blog was the one I was going through while searching for more info about these jackets. You mean hey had multiple contractors at once? That certainly explains everything. Jackets on the pictures I've posted would be the 1951 version of the jacket; http://vintageleatherjackets.blogspot.com/2014/06/1951-d-pocket.html 'Warm woolen plain lining', same kidney pannel, belt loops, D-pocket details; it's a perfect match - and yet, different sleeve zipper configuration. 1953 version altered the design considerably - red nylon lining, attached belt, etc., though still advertised with top sleeve zippers.

I don't get the 1952 version, though. Looks more like one of the J's from Buco than Sears, especially considering how the 1951 ad doesn't show a chest pocket to begin with. That's all very interesting stuff...

Here's another interesting variation that's recently been sold through eBay - Hercules, horse hide, red quilted nylon lining but check out the bottom of the jacket:

Edward; yep, that's my favorite version of the jacket. This type of lining really works for it. Fantastic jackets!

I like that collar with red lining. Very nice.

 

[Monitor]

Some time ago, I distinctly remember stumbling upon a picture of a Buco D-pocket with side laces, but now I cannot find it for the life of me. So, does anyone know anything about such a thing, or was I hallucinating?

 

[zhz]

Always a fan of D pocket jacket. Sadly I am not a rider, so, dont think I will have much wear of M/C Jacket

 

[Edward]

I don't get the 1952 version, though. Looks more like one of the J's from Buco than Sears, especially considering how the 1951 ad doesn't show a chest pocket to begin with. That's all very interesting stuff...

That's an interesting variation I've seen between orginals. I'd already spotted it on repros: for a long time, Aero's D-pocket offerings were limited to King of the Road and the Elvis jacket, neither of which have a horizontal breast pocket above the 'D'. Elvis, of course, wore a Buco which did. The more recently introduced Aero J106 reproduces this... It's nice that there are repros of both. Part of me would love a 'D' on a bootlegger, with no top pocket... I think that would look sharp.

Has anyone ever seen a 'reverse' D pocket? Aero's Daytona model is almost identical to their J106, except that it has the D the other way around. I had assumed that this was a concession to modern usage, for those who might want to overall look of the D pocket but with a useable 'handwarmer' pocket on either side. Still, it's got me wondering whether that was ever actually done back in the day, rather than being a nod simply to a current market angle...

Edward; yep, that's my favorite version of the jacket. This type of lining really works for it. Fantastic jackets!

Part of me could be almost tempted by that for the sake of variation on a future jacket, but I'm unsure if it wouldn't be too hot for much of my current jacket season, and too cold for deep Winter.... that said, the idea of a bike jacket with shearling lining also appeals a lot...

 

[Joao Encarnado]

Always a fan of D pocket jacket. Sadly I am not a rider, so, dont think I will have much wear of M/C Jacket

I'm not a rider and that doesn't stop me from wearing them.

 

[nick123]

I've found the "I'm not a rider" insecurity went away as soon as I first wore my first moto jacket. These jackets are fairly versatile. They can be worn on or off a bike, and look almost classy in a way when paired with some dress clothes.
In one of the vintage catalogues, a model is wearing a D-pocket jacket with a bow tie. Granted he was an illustration, but he looked good.
I too would have never purchased a jacket in this style had I told myself I couldn't because I wasn't a biker, but they're my favorites.

 

[Edward]

Yeah. I'll stop wear MC jackets while not being a biker around about the same time I stop wearing Irivns, A2s et cetera when I'm not a pilot. (Or, come to think of it, forties and fifties styles when I don't like in the forties and fifties.)

 

[nick123]

Speaking of, this is one of the nicest I've seen. Diamond Dave's J-21 that was posted on the VLJ forum.

 

[Monitor]

Proper motorcycle jacket:

Cosplay:

Same as Irvins and A2s and whatnot, compared to modern MC jackets, these Bucos and Perfectos became obsolete in every aspect there is and it don't matter whether you're riding or not - wearing them is exclusively a matter of ones taste and style. The fact that you're riding doesn't give you any special privilege to wear 'em as they've nothing to do with riding anymore. Everyone can wear these jackets today. I mean, they're the only jackets I wear when riding and I know I'm just playing pretend, just as well as I know that I should be wearing the first jacket I posted. But I won't because I don't like it.

So, wear your MC jackets, people! Enjoy 'em. And that DD Buco indeed is the nicest I've ever seen. Hard belt looks killer on it, I wish Aero included it too... It's cool to see a belt loop snap on a D-pocket. Nick, do you know perhaps what's the length of this baby?

Edward; I've given a Daytona a lot of thought but decided to go with J106 because of the Buco and all... Thought I actually find it superior because having a hand warmer is nice. Never seen such variation before, though... I don't think anyone's done it prior to Aero.

 

[Edward]

Love the "cosplay" comment... lol I suspect if I ever live somewhere with roads safe enough that I'll consider a bike, I'd stick with something oldschool in leather and/or an armoured waxed-cotton affair. Just can't reconcile myself to these nylon wonders, no matter how 'safe' they are.... Mn.

I can imagine anyone who uses the handwarmers as such would find the Daytona a good option. I never have, myself (weirdly, on my 618 Perfecto they're too far back to get at when I'm wearing it.... not quite pillion pocket-back, but still.... ). I don't use them on any of my short leather jackets (I can get me paws in me trews easier), so really they're just for aesthetics or (if zipped, as on an MC, keeping stuff in), so I prefer the J106 too, but it's a nice idea to offer the option, anyhow.