Czech Republicans: Tonak, Huckel, no name

[Apollo]

I’m not sure what you are meaning. Gannon’s fedora brims are flanged and not flat. Most all fedoras have brims similar to your photo. Some have more flange, but all snap brim fedoras have some level of flange.

Traditionally, some brims have more/deeper flange. The Stetson Stratoliners are an example of this. Others have less flange such as the Stetson Open Road. Many hatters have a variety of flanges to offer customers a choice.

Here is the hat I’m wearing today. Viewed on the profile you can see the amount of flange it has:

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The cupped “flange” gives the brim tension and allows it to be worn brim up all around, snapped down in the front (as in my photo) or snapped down front and back in the Outback/adventure style. Some hats are made with flat brims, but the only Gannons I’ve seen that didn’t have a flanged brim have been his westerns, and even most of those have a shallow flange.

One of the great things about commissioning a custom hat is you get to decide all the details.

Oh ok, I am noticing a trend today with people that aren’t fedora enthusiast are wearing their brims horizontal straight like a air plane.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Oh ok, I am noticing a trend today with people that aren’t fedora enthusiast are wearing their brims horizontal straight like a air plane.

Yes, the wide flat brim fashion hat is having its 15 minutes. Most of what we here prefer are more along to classic lines.

 

[steur]

Another recent pickup.
Tonak Gazela fedora in a wonderful chamois finish. Size 56 (but fits like a 57), with the raw edge brim at 6,5cm and the crown 10cm at the center dent. Lovely rustbrown colour on this one. Early Tonak product, but I can't tell exactly how early. The "Tyden" on the label is supposed to say something about the year it was produced, but "13" doesn't make sense to me. 13th month of production after JHS was nationalised? 13th year perhaps?
The Obchod odëvy y Praze on the sweatband means "clothing store in Prague", so likely produced after Tonak opened their own store in Prague.

 

[mayserwegener]

Another recent pickup.
Tonak Gazela fedora in a wonderful chamois finish. Size 56 (but fits like a 57), with the raw edge brim at 6,5cm and the crown 10cm at the center dent. Lovely rustbrown colour on this one. Early Tonak product, but I can't tell exactly how early. The "Tyden" on the label is supposed to say something about the year it was produced, but "13" doesn't make sense to me. 13th month of production after JHS was nationalised? 13th year perhaps?
The Obchod odëvy y Praze on the sweatband means "clothing store in Prague", so likely produced after Tonak opened their own store in Prague.

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Stefan, Again a Super find! Do you think it had a liner?

Based on the paper label it's from the same time as this Tonak "Brillant" Velour.

https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/348-tonak-brillant/

There are some late 1950s label with what appears to be the production year.

https://germanaustrianhats.invision...at-find-may-2016/?do=findComment&comment=1507

I think with your Hat it's the production week. Here is an earlier label in English with "Week". I need to document the Tonak Paper Labels up to the early 1960s.

https://germanaustrianhats.invision...at-find-may-2016/?do=findComment&comment=1522

 

[steur]

Stefan, Again a Super find! Do you think it had a liner?

Based on the paper label it's from the same time as this Tonak "Brillant" Velour.

https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/348-tonak-brillant/

There are some late 1950s label with what appears to be the production year.

https://germanaustrianhats.invision...at-find-may-2016/?do=findComment&comment=1507

I think with your Hat it's the production week. Here is an earlier label in English with "Week". I need to document the Tonak Paper Labels up to the early 1960s.

https://germanaustrianhats.invision...at-find-may-2016/?do=findComment&comment=1522

Thanks, Steve. I think it did have a liner; there were some threads still there inside the hat.

 

[alanfgag]

looks like velvet. Love the wide ribbon work.

The finish is very much like velvet.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

@Apollo
Here’s one of my Selco hats. I let it go after deciding the crown just wasn’t tall enough for me.

 

[Apollo]

Hey man, what was the size of the crown on that hat?

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Hey man, what was the size of the crown on that hat?

Approximately 5 1/2 inches. Too short for the look I prefer.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Hey man, what was the size of the crown on that hat?

A couple of my bright novelty Selentino Sterling fedoras:

Definitely lower and tapered crowns. Nothing “wrong” with them but they certainly aren’t classically styled even if you overlook the bright colors.

 

[Apollo]

A couple of my bright novelty Selentino Sterling fedoras:


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Definitely lower and tapered crowns. Nothing “wrong” with them but they certainly aren’t classically styled even if you overlook the bright colors.

I just received my Sterling, the crown is not super short. I would say medium height, I measure about 4 3/4”. The want the crown alittle higher, maybe 5 1/8”. The felt isn’t as good as the Saxon and whippet I tried on. The felt almost look like cheap wool, as oppose to real felt….

 

[deadlyhandsome]

I just received my Sterling, the crown is not super short. I would say medium height, I measure about 4 3/4”. The want the crown alittle higher, maybe 5 1/8”. The felt isn’t as good as the Saxon and whippet I tried on. The felt almost look like cheap wool, as oppose to real felt….

I’ve not touched a modern Whippet, but I’ve held several Stetson Saxons and I’ve not been impressed. I much prefer the Selentino/Tonak felt. This is all subjective. To me, the much softer less stiff Tonak felt is preferable to what I’ve seen on most all modern Stetsons.

 

[Apollo]

That’s weird because the Saxon I have the felt is a richer black color and felt feels way softer. The Sterling feels harder and rougher.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

That’s weird because the Saxon I have the felt is a richer black color and felt feels way softer. The Sterling feels harder and rougher.

That is odd. The Selentino Sterlings I’ve owned were soft and almost floppy compared to the very stiff modern Stetsons.

Clearly, the solution is to commission a custom black hat from beaver or nutria.

 

[Apollo]

Here is a thought, can it be the quality went down since the last you brought yours. Because the sweatband on mine was different from the ones I have seen on the other sterling’s.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Here is a thought, can it be the quality went down since the last you brought yours. Because the sweatband on mine was different from the ones I have seen on the other sterling’s.

Could be. The Selentino Sterling was/is an entry grade hat so I’d say in competition with the current Stetson Royal line of hats (the current Royal felt has been compared to dryer lint ). When these Selentinos were cheap and plentiful it was fun to mess around with them (hence the bright colors), but they were never great hats. Like I said, The Burlington Coat Factory had pallets of them and at the end they were very cheap ($25ish). The more expensive Selentinos are better, but I’d rather spend the money on a custom hat or vintage hats.

 

[Apollo]

The hat I have is black. I don’t wear loud colours, maybe that is why they were $25ish.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

The hat I have is black. I don’t wear loud colours, maybe that is why they were $25ish.

No, I had them in standard colors too. They were so cheap that it was an opportunity to try some novelty. I wouldn’t pay $400 for a custom yellow hat, but $25….why not? I also had them in the standard colors, but none of them were of a quality or shape that I wanted to make part of my collection, but the bright colors were fun. I had my fun and moved them on…I might have one or two left but I haven’t seen them for years.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Here’s a Tonak I found for sale in Ukraine with free shipping. Lovely velour finish.

5 1/2” open crown and 2 3/8” wide brim and sewn in liner. It’s for sale so feel free to send me a PM if you’re interested.

 

[mayserwegener]

Here’s a Tonak I found for sale in Ukraine with free shipping. Lovely velour finish.

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5 1/2” open crown and 2 3/8” wide brim and sewn in liner. It’s for sale so feel free to send me a PM if you’re interested.

Brent, Great find! It's an early Tonak.