Crosshatch Material - Proper Name?

[Senator Jack]

I was once told the name of this stitch/weave by a manufacturer. I recall it being a French word. Any ideas?

EDIT - HOLD ON, I'M FIXING THE PICTURE

Hanx

Senator Jack

 

[herringbonekid]

Jack, are you referring to the thick raised bits or the general background weave ? (or both ?)

 

[Senator Jack]

The thick raised bits. Mostly see this on 50s/60s suits.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

first thing that sprung to mind was slubbed . . . but that's not right. That's something else entirely.

bk

 

[Senator Jack]

I seem to recall something like 'groeille' or 'groschille', but I could be far off on that. It definitely has to be called something, but I imagine the manufacturers wouldn't even know any more.

 

[herringbonekid]

i've heard slubs too.

in Sears 50s catalogues they often refer to it as a 'crash' tweed

 

[Senator Jack]

What does slub look like? Any pics?

 

[Baron Kurtz]

see, if it was silk i'd call it Doupionni. I don't know if that transfers to woollen fabrics.

I'm pretty sure now that slubbed is correct in some way.

bk

 

[herringbonekid]

slubs is more generic and refers to any random dashes. in a Sears catalogue (i'm quoting from before me) it says "crash-type tweed with decorative slubs of colour". the colour being the typical large flecks or dashes you see on 50s sports jackets.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

slubbed

bk

 

[Senator Jack]

Doupianni. That's another one I keep forgetting, but that's not what he called it as I would have recognized it when he said it. Perhaps in the end, he was wrong.

I do have a silk jacket that has that weave. The picture I posted is of a sharkskin. I suppose they just copied the weave from the doupianni.

 

[herringbonekid]

could the french word be 'grisaille' ?

(a pseudo-relief form of monochrome drawing). i'm just guessing.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

slubs is more generic and refers to any random dashes. in a Sears catalogue (i'm quoting from before me) it says "crash-type tweed with decorative slubs of colour". the colour being the typical large flecks or dashes you see on 50s sports jackets.

well, slubbed is specific to raised fibres - like the ones on Jacks pic and the pink one i posted. Here's what the free dictionary says:

slub (slb)
tr.v. slubbed, slub¬?bing, slubs
To draw out and twist (a strand of silk or other textile fiber) in preparation for spinning.
n.
1. A soft thick nub in yarn that is either an imperfection or purposely set for a desired effect.
2. A slightly twisted roll of fiber, as of silk or cotton

bk

 

[Baron Kurtz]

the pink one there is doupionni

bk

 

[Senator Jack]

That has to be then, doesn't it? Maybe he had heard the French word for it and said it to be an egghead. Who knows why people do these things? Another mystery solved by Detectives Kurtz and Kid. Well done, fellas.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

So, slubbing seems to be a process in the preparation of fibres for spinning (after carding).

Therefore, the fabrics which include these intentional raised sections are imperfectly slubbed.

bk

 

[herringbonekid]

don't forget 'nubby' too.

 

[manton]

That definitely looks like a slub to me. What's the fiber?

 

[Tomasso]

Maybe he had heard the French word for it and said it to be an egghead. Who knows why people do these things?

I had a business associate who would often pepper his conversation with just enough foreign, esoteric or antiquated references to thoroughly muddy the topic under discussion, often stopping it in its tracks. :eusa_doh:

 

[Baron Kurtz]

OED says

Slub

[of obscure origin] a lump on a thread.

I had a business associate who would often pepper his conversation with just enough foreign, esoteric or antiquated references to thoroughly muddy the topic under discussion, often stopping it in its tracks. :eusa_doh:

There's always one, isn't there. Apparently it's a sign that the speaker feels intimidated.

bk