Considering Blouson Jackets

[AeroFan_07]

So I have long been thinking about a "better fitting" Snug, but not tight, practical, somewhat stylish but a bit more work-oriented jacket. Straight Zip, shirt collar, and not a bomber jacket. I do not care for bombers, elastic cuffs etc except for the instance of a Carhartt chore coat. This is also not a Half-belt topic. So it seems I am loking for a Blouson jacket. A term that, until recently, I was not familiar with.

From Wikpedia: A blouson or blouse jacket is a jacket that is drawn tight at the waist, causing it to blouse out and hang over the waistband. Some of them have a hood. It takes most of its modern traits from the American flight jacket and police blouson. It is related to the Eisenhower jacket.

There have been three specific jackets in my mind as I have been thinking along these lines. The first, least expensive, and likely most practical is the Schott 689H, a photo of which was borrowed off thier website - Note especially the back and the waist adjusters, situated ~ 5" off the bottom hem of the jacket:

Frankley it suprises me a bit we do not see this jacket here in FL more often. It is only around $825 at full price, however I do admit the fixed quilted lining makes this a rather warm jacket. Right now that's appealing as i really am not excited about winter setting in.

Next is one we've discussed a lot in this Lounge, and after a conversation with Charles at History Preservation Associates, the US Stockets for Eastman & ELMC jackets, the Highway Star is indeed a very hard-to-fit jacket. It's not just boxy, it's shaped very different than most jackets on the market these days. I like how it looks and the leather looks great, but it's proven to be very difficult to get the fit down on for almost everyone who has tried. Photo below:

Finally, one I had not consdiered before, suggested by Charles of History Prservation, this is the Ostmann Luftwaffe Flying jacket. I would prefer a Black one of any of these. Or does someone else have another suggestion? This jacket runs $1350 so not an insignifigant cost here: (Photo from History Preservation Associates)

Note that the wasit adjuster straps are near the bottom of the jacket, but actually have holes & buckles, similar to the Schott. There is also the "belt" that attaches in the front:

Thoughts? Personal expeances with these? Just wanting an easy wearing leather that has a bit of an "edge" but not showy. Simple, clean, straightforward.

 

[Guppy]

The Schott 689H is a great jacket. Vanson does the same pattern, but they call it the Enfield, and with Vanson's year-long 15% off sale, it's only $550 in comp weight, $535 in firenze. But I don't know that it's a blouson style, by the definition given above. I have an Enfield in heavy brown Horsehide, and it is amazing. I also have a 689H, black, and it is also great.

I like the ELMC Highway Star, a lot, but haven't seen anyone who has tried one on and liked the fit well enough to buy it. I'd like to try one myself if I get the chance.

 

[El Marro]

Out of the three jackets you have selected my vote is for the Schott. I agree that it is a nice simple jacket with a little bit of attitude.
I like the look of the Highway Star, I like it a lot as a matter fact. As Guppy pointed out though, nobody here has bought one and the people who got to try it on have not liked the jacket enough to make the purchase.

 

[erikb02809]

I've got the Eastman Luftwaffe in black. It's really nice. Quality of manufacture isn't perfect, but still, very, very good. And the hide, hardware, and lining are 1st rate. Super comfortable too. The horsehide on mine is a lot more supple than the hides I'm used to with most of my other jackets, which tend to be crosszip motorcycle jackets.

It definitely has more of a "blouson" look when I wear it than on Eastman's pics on the headless dummy, but that probably has more to do with wearing a 43 or 44 in most blazers I own, but a 32 waist. I've got a stock size 44, sleeves, chest, shoulders all fit great, and I forget, I've either got the waist tabs as tight as they go, or one notch away from as tight as they go. Doesn't look bad at all (if I'm being honest w/myself, it might be the best fitting jacket I own currently), but not a look I was used to before I got the jacket.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

My Vanson 'Enfield'.....

 

[MrProper]

All 3 seem to be nice jackets, but I wouldn't have classified any of them as blousons. Most likely the Luftwaffe, which has a touch of blouson from the back. I would rather see A-1/A-2/G-1 and similar than blouson? but i'm not the expert.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Agree Mr Proper. The above are not blousons they are utility jackets or bike jackets. Always thought that the blouson is the classic non leather jacket enthusiasts leather jacket. When I think of a blouson I can't get this image out of my mind.

 

[Carlos840]

I agree that i would not call any of the above a "blouson", to me a blouson has that classic A-2 muffin top look...
Have you considered the Lewis Leathers Dominator or Corsair, they seem to also fit the bil.

Out of the three you have selected my vote goes for the Highway star if it works out for you.
It really is a nice jacket.
Personally i don't like the Schott 689H, to me it looks like a collared Model B, i don't think i have ever seen that back/buckle setup look good on anyone...
The Ostman is nice, but i think that for the money i would rather get a Lewis.

 

[ton312]

Hard pass on all of these. Proceed to black Jerky HH or CXL 1950’s HB from Aero. Neater fit, better hide, more choices for the liner. For a “basic” black jacket that’s where I’d go. That said the Eastman is certainly the least boring of the options listed above.

 

[Downunder G Man]

I had a Schott 689H in 44" , a very trim fitting jacket compared to my Schott 641HH café racer. Different cut.

Sold that to a good mate who pestered me to sell it to him even tho' I really liked it. Kept the 641HH , more "forgiving".

I also have 3 Eastman Luftwaffe of various ages , 30 years , 20+ years and 6 years old. My "go to " style.

I also have a Simmons Bilt Nebraska that features regularly on the lounge.

This is my go-to style, straight zippered collared jackets. (Even tho' I have multiple café racer styled jackets)

Eastman Luftwaffe the first 2 shots, 6 years old now , horsehide and cotton lined , quite a "warm" jacket.

Simmons Bilt Nebraska in black goat. Lighter lining , and not so "warm" as the Eastman Luftwaffe.

 

[Carlos840]

I had a Schott 689H in 44" , a very trim fitting jacket compared to my Schott 641HH café racer. Different cut.

Sold that to a good mate who pestered me to sell it to him even tho' I really liked it. Kept the 641HH , more "forgiving".

I also have 3 Eastman Luftwaffe of various ages , 30 years , 20+ years and 6 years old. My "go to " style.

I also have a Simmons Bilt Nebraska that features regularly on the lounge.

This is my go-to style, straight zippered collared jackets. (Even tho' I have multiple café racer styled jackets)

Eastman Luftwaffe the first 2 shots, 6 years old now , horsehide and cotton lined , quite a "warm" jacket.

View attachment 280648

View attachment 280649

Simmons Bilt Nebraska in black goat. Lighter lining , and not so "warm" as the Eastman Luftwaffe.

View attachment 280650

View attachment 280651

The collar of the Eastman is much nicer than the Nebraska.
For some reason the Nebraska collar always crumples on itself instead of maintaining a circular neckline.

 

[Monitor]

None of these are blouson jackets, if the word even has any concrete meaning. From Wiki description, for a jacket to be considered a blouson, it'd have to be closer to a MA-1 or an A-2. Or something like that, with a tight/elasticized waist. Side adjusters don't qualify as any leather jacket style can have them.

Blouson means Jacket in French so it's silly to even consider it a style of any kind.

The jackets you're looking at are a regular, straightforward dress collar leather jackets. For more options, Aero HWM and Lewis Leathers Corsair/Dominator is the exact style as the aforementioned Schott, Vanson Enfield and Eastman Luftwaffe.

There's also Freewheelers Mulholland...

And of course Fine Creek James...

 

[Monitor]

Aero's Windward is the closest match that I can think of to what you describe, 'cause of the tight, elasticized waist, but I also wouldn't think of it being a style of its own. It's just a classic leather jacket.

 

[Doctor Strange]

I got my son a Wested jacket a few years ago that they call a classic blouson:


Of course, MANY knit-collar baseball jacket/MA-1-styled leathers similar to this are very common these days.

 

[Colin G]

There have been three specific jackets in my mind as I have been thinking along these lines. The first, least expensive, and likely most practical is the Schott 689H, a photo of which was borrowed off thier website - Note especially the back and the waist adjusters, situated ~ 5" off the bottom hem of the jacket:

View attachment 280604

Frankley it suprises me a bit we do not see this jacket here in FL more often. It is only around $825 at full price, however I do admit the fixed quilted lining makes this a rather warm jacket. Right now that's appealing as i really am not excited about winter setting in.



Thoughts? Personal expeances with these? Just wanting an easy wearing leather that has a bit of an "edge" but not showy. Simple, clean, straightforward.

I owned a 689H for about 12 years and it is not a tight waisted jacket or a blouson style since it is kind of long with around a 25" back. It is a typical single riders kind of thing. That being said I absolutely loved it and with the light quilted lining it made a decent, hard-wearing winter jacket even up here in Canada. I would move snow with a snowblower wearing it and have zero issues. It was always big on me so I eventually sold it but would buy another if Schott would ever get back to me with measurements on a 40 I probably would have bought another one by now. I am unsure if new ones differ other than a snap-down collar which I don't like.

And like @Monitor mentioned, there is the Freewheelers Mulholland which is on the shorter side but not too short. I have tried it on and while not for me, it was a very nice jacket but finding anything larger than a 42 may be tricky.

 

[El Marro]

Agree Mr Proper. The above are not blousons they are utility jackets or bike jackets. Always thought that the blouson is the classic non leather jacket enthusiasts leather jacket. When I think of a blouson I can't get this image out of my mind.

View attachment 280621

View attachment 280622

I saw an older guy out walking his dog yesterday morning wearing pretty much this exact jacket. “What a terrible leather jacket“ I thought to myself as I drove by.

 

[Seb Lucas]

I saw an older guy out walking his dog yesterday morning wearing pretty much this exact jacket. “What a terrible leather jacket“ I thought to myself as I drove by.

Yep. These are usually labeled blouson style jackets when in shops over here.

 

[MrProper]

I saw an older guy out walking his dog yesterday morning wearing pretty much this exact jacket. “What a terrible leather jacket“ I thought to myself as I drove by.

This is a typical old man jacket. I see a lot of them walking around the supermarket in this style

 

[Marc mndt]

When I think of a blouson I think of one of those early 90s suede bomber jackets with droopy shoulders.

 

[AeroFan_07]

Cool feedback! I appreciate all the responses. Seems that term "Blouson" may have been misplaced. Good to see I can always bring something in here and get it fixed up just right.

And yeah, old school, "waist banded" bomber jackets (think Wilson's leathers in the 1990's) is quite not at all what I am looking for.

Thanks also about the Vanson Enifeld, it's a great jacket and I did onw one for a bit, that was a partial trade deal here off FL. It was just a bit small on my so I moved it along. Looking to branch out a little and try a maker & style I've never owned.

Guppy - it's intersting that you and I both have mentioned the ELMC highwaystar and the intrest to try one on. The US stockist is not planning to "stock" it, due to the challening fit. I wonder if this is a similar issue as folks have had with the Aero Highwayman - however in thier case you have more than just numeric sizes & "regular or Tall" fit options.
Fro $1500 usd, I would like to have a way to try it on prior to committing to it.