Considering Blouson Jackets

[Marc mndt]

Guppy - it's intersting that you and I both have mentioned the ELMC highwaystar and the intrest to try one on. The US stockist is not planning to "stock" it, due to the challening fit.

Do the numbers come close?

ELMC HIGHWAY STAR
SIZE 44 :

ARMPIT TO ARMPIT: 59.5cm

SHOULDER SEAM TO SEAM: 45.5cm

SLEEVE LENGTH FROM SHOULDER SEAM TO END OF CUFF: 65cm

BACK LENGTH FROM NAPE OF NECK SEAM TO BOTTOM OF WAISTBAND: 62cm

 

[AeroFan_07]

Thanks - that's 23.4" Pit to Pit
Shoulders - 17.9"
Sleeve - 25.6"
Back length - 24.4"

Given this, I would definetly want a Long...

 

[Marc mndt]

Thanks - that's 23.4" Pit to Pit
Shoulders - 17.9"
Sleeve - 25.6"
Back length - 24.4"

Given this, I would definetly want a Long...

It's a great looking jacket and the build quality is also great. Well worth the money imo, that is if it fits

 

[navetsea]

Yep. These are usually labeled blouson style jackets when in shops over here.

yeah whenever I hear blousey fit or blouson my face contorts a little, I once had conversation with my uncle about his desire to get a new leather jacket but then he dropped that "blouson" every 10 words and praise how effortless it looks, as much as I like the topic of discussion I got to derail it onto another so I started talk about bike jacket and then steer it into moto gp topic.. wheww .

 

[Seb Lucas]

I'll give you blouson....

 

[Downunder G Man]

Aye and an old watch on a Kangaroo figurine haha...

 

[trainspotter]

Not sure if this delivery jacket from Schott can fit your requirement -

https://www.schottnyc.com/products/horween-steerhide-delivery-jacket.htm

 

[handymike]

I like that! Are the cuffs rolled up a bit?

 

[trainspotter]

I like that! Are the cuffs rolled up a bit?

Got the sleeves shortened from Dena @Great Leathers...she did a great job as usual

 

[AeroFan_07]

That's a great piece right there!

 

[Turnip]

Luftwaffe Blouson

https://classic-kontor.com/clothing...ka-bw-pilotenjacke-mit-schubtasche-basaltgrau

 

[El Marro]

I'll give you blouson....

View attachment 280912

Seb, that is perhaps the only example you are going to find of a total bad ass wearing a blouson.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Seb, that is perhaps the only example you are going to find of a total bad ass wearing a blouson.

Yep - although Tony Soprano's no slouch..

 

[Downunder G Man]

Yep - although Tony Soprano's no slouch..

My most favourite TV series of all time, bar NONE !

Back to "blouson" jackets. Today's "beach" breakfast outing for the 6 years old Eastman Luftwaffe.
Photo used in other threads so no whingeing !
I bought one of these in 1990 , and for years it was my only leather jacket. 350 pounds sterling in 1990 !
Wore it to work with shirt and tie with pleated dress pants and shiny brogues.
AND to the pub of a Friday as "single guy".
AND to race my Japanese 750cc motorcycle on a Sunday.
As said I still have that jacket , now in occasional use "semi-retirement" , just like me actually !

 

[Edward]

For something along the lines of what the OP is after, if the standard Aero Highwayman and similar jackets are too "boxy", the Lewis Corsair / Dominator would be a step closer the snugness of a half belt, but with the desired plainer look. The Aero Original 59er Highwayman is an all-out repop of the original Rivetts of Leytonstone jacket in that style sold under the Highwayman brand by Rivetts at least three or four years before Lewis brought theirs to market. Another take on a slim-fitting version of that simpler style is the Aero Premier Highwayman - a reimagining of what the same jacket might have looked like had it been a thirties design rather than fifties.

The joy of the standard HWM if you like the fit is, of course, availability off the rack as it's one model Aero keep a stock of. I wasn't sure of the cut when I bought mine (mine is an Apprentice made model, so came at a reduction that encouraged me to take the plunge), but it's turned out to be one of my most-worn jackets.

Hard pass on all of these. Proceed to black Jerky HH or CXL 1950’s HB from Aero. Neater fit, better hide, more choices for the liner. For a “basic” black jacket that’s where I’d go. That said the Eastman is certainly the least boring of the options listed above.

The lining point is well made; not an issue if you like the nylon quilt or something similar, but if you wanted a wider range of options, Aero are good that way.

Aero's Windward is the closest match that I can think of to what you describe, 'cause of the tight, elasticized waist, but I also wouldn't think of it being a style of its own. It's just a classic leather jacket.

Closest to a 'blouson' in our field, but disqualified because it's still got style....

"Blouson", fwiw, is a word I've only ever seen used in two places: mainstream fashion catalogues of the 1980s, and police descriptions of mass-murderers.

Luftwaffe Blouson

https://classic-kontor.com/clothing...ka-bw-pilotenjacke-mit-schubtasche-basaltgrau

A little too modern for my personal style, but I've always quite liked these.

 

[automatic]

The word blouson always makes me think of harrington jackets, like the Baracuta G9.
You have great taste, AeroFan! I've been lusting after both the Schott and the Ostmann jackets you mentioned in your original post!

 

[navetsea]

now I get it why flight jacket needs to be short to look good, since long elasticized waist jacket really look sloppy even on a fit guy, since the muffin flare is right at where the gut and waist fat is expected to be

 

[MrProper]

now I get it why flight jacket needs to be short to look good, since long elasticized waist jacket really look sloppy even on a fit guy, since the muffin flare is right at where the gut and waist fat is expected to be

also depends a little on the cut. this one is not super short (actually my longest) and I think it works. my only "blouson"

 

[ES335]

So I have long been thinking about a "better fitting" Snug, but not tight, practical, somewhat stylish but a bit more work-oriented jacket. Straight Zip, shirt collar, and not a bomber jacket. I do not care for bombers, elastic cuffs etc except for the instance of a Carhartt chore coat. This is also not a Half-belt topic. So it seems I am loking for a Blouson jacket. A term that, until recently, I was not familiar with.

From Wikpedia: A blouson or blouse jacket is a jacket that is drawn tight at the waist, causing it to blouse out and hang over the waistband. Some of them have a hood. It takes most of its modern traits from the American flight jacket and police blouson. It is related to the Eisenhower jacket.

There have been three specific jackets in my mind as I have been thinking along these lines. The first, least expensive, and likely most practical is the Schott 689H, a photo of which was borrowed off thier website - Note especially the back and the waist adjusters, situated ~ 5" off the bottom hem of the jacket:

View attachment 280604

Frankley it suprises me a bit we do not see this jacket here in FL more often. It is only around $825 at full price, however I do admit the fixed quilted lining makes this a rather warm jacket. Right now that's appealing as i really am not excited about winter setting in.

Next is one we've discussed a lot in this Lounge, and after a conversation with Charles at History Preservation Associates, the US Stockets for Eastman & ELMC jackets, the Highway Star is indeed a very hard-to-fit jacket. It's not just boxy, it's shaped very different than most jackets on the market these days. I like how it looks and the leather looks great, but it's proven to be very difficult to get the fit down on for almost everyone who has tried. Photo below:

View attachment 280605

Finally, one I had not consdiered before, suggested by Charles of History Prservation, this is the Ostmann Luftwaffe Flying jacket. I would prefer a Black one of any of these. Or does someone else have another suggestion? This jacket runs $1350 so not an insignifigant cost here: (Photo from History Preservation Associates)

View attachment 280606

Note that the wasit adjuster straps are near the bottom of the jacket, but actually have holes & buckles, similar to the Schott. There is also the "belt" that attaches in the front:

View attachment 280607


Thoughts? Personal expeances with these? Just wanting an easy wearing leather that has a bit of an "edge" but not showy. Simple, clean, straightforward.

Hi, I bought my Ostmann in February, much for the same reasons you did. I like WW2 aviation and it's not "edgy" like so many riding jackets. Simple, one-piece back... My only niggle is that I find it it's too warm for Mid-Atlantic US summer wear. No, that kind of money isn't insignificant, but IMO it's completely worth it. And HPA/Charles with great to work with- I was concerned about sizing but he walked me right through it. You will not be disappointed.

 

[AeroFan_07]

^^ Nice. Thanks for the note.
Do a review of the jacket here with photos, it's always appreciated.
Welcome to FL!