Comments on Tweed Jacket?

[Chasseur]

I've just got in a trial sizing tweed jacket from Bookster. I am thinking of getting a 3 piece.

This is a 44R. Peter and Michele have been very helpful and I've also ordered some great swatches.

Here are some photos with it over a waistcoat. I have come comments/concerns about the fit, but I don't want to bias comments. Can you all take a look and let me know what you think Just to clarify, its not in a tweed I am thinking about getting.

Thank you in advance.

 

[Puzzicato]

I think it is pulling across your chest, although that could be an illusion because of the pattern on the fabric.

 

[Nick D]

I'd suggest unbuttoning the top button. It looks a bit like the flap in the back is sticking out, possibly from the vents pulling open? Nice fabric, though.

 

[cookie]

Not wide enough in the chest area...looks a size too small in front.

 

[Happy Jack]

You may be a 44L, the arms seem a bit short.[huh]

 

[Miss sofia]

I thought it looked a little tight across the back..great jacket though!

 

[Edward]

I'd suggest unbuttoning the top button. It looks a bit like the flap in the back is sticking out, possibly from the vents pulling open? Nice fabric, though.

Actually, I think it would be a nicer looking jacket pressed as a 3 rolled on 2...

How high are the armholes?

 

[Wolfmanjack]

Too tight in the chest and the skirt is not quite long enough, IMHO. Try a 46R or maybe even a 46L before you decide.

 

[Chasseur]

Thank you all!

I'll try to answer your comments.

The side vents fall pretty nicely actually, not pulled apart when I'm standing except perhaps a little at the ends. Though if I ordered a jacket I probably would not order side vents.

On length, I'm happy with the length of the jacket, I might add an 1" to the sleaves (that is an option with Bookster) but don't think I'd order a 44 or 46L.

The armholes are ok, they could be higher. I've had much lower modern jackets though. They are about as high as some of the better Brooks Brothers jackets I've either owned or tried on. Not as high as they vintage 40 and 50s jackets I own.

A 3 rolled to 2 is quite tempting actually...

The main issue I have is that the upper chest is "loose" and seems too large for me and the fabric actually bellows out this is even more pronouced because of the transition to the waist supression. Similar in the back it doesn't fit the way I like.

I'll take some more photos soon.

 

[Richard Warren]

collar does not fit.

 

[Edward]

In terms of armhole height, My ideal, I have found, is for there to be just bang on an inch between the skin of my armpit and the jacket seam when standing with arms relaxed against the body, if that makes sense. How would it compare on that score?

 

[Chasseur]

Edward,

Had a bit of a difficult time measuring that but near as I can find it would be about 2" on this particular jacket.

Now with the inspiration your measurement idea gave I went arround and tried that with a bunch of my other jackets.

Generally what I found:
Vintage suit jackets (1954 Austin Reed, 1950s Burton DJ, and 1960s Hector Powe), Ralph Lauren PL sportcoat, old Brooks Brothers Blazer, etc. all were at about 1" and I really like that size of armhole.

Modern suit jackets and a sportcoat I had made when I was in India, modern linen sportcoats (the Macy's ones that were pretty popular on FL last year), and some other odd sportcoats were at about 2". Less thrilled with this size, but its workable.

I used to have some Jos A Bank sportcoats and some others makes that had armholes larger enough to be humorous, like some aquatic webbing... [huh]

Here are two photos with the jacket open:

Late on today when my photographer (wife) comes back I'll get some more in particular wearing with top button undone.

Again my thanks for your comments.

 

[Methuselah]

I agree, the sleeves could be 1" longer.
It also looks to me like the fabric is bulging out a bit under the arms, as if it is too baggy.
Would they offer to raise the arm holes slightly?

The chest looks a bit tight when the top button is done up too, as if it is on the verge of puckering the fabric. If the top 1 is left open, the lapels would roll down a bit. Otherwise they look a bit too 60s Mod style to me.

EDIT: I Googled Edward's comments about '3 rolled 2' - so at least I've learnt some new terminolgoy today

 

[Chasseur]

Yes that under arm/side of the chest "bulge" is perhaps most what bothers me.

 

[Orgetorix]

Biggest problem I see is the balance. Long back, short front balance. It's causing the jacket to collapse into the small of your back above the vents and making the front quarters close and stand away from your body. It's probably also contributing to the ripples under the arms.

 

[Methuselah]

I've just had a look at their suits gallery on the web site.
Frustratingly, they are all photographed on arm-less dummies rather than real people.
Maybe it's caused by them trying to get a fitted-waist look to the hacking jackets? It kind of 'flares out' under the arm maybe?
I'd be interested to hear your final decision, I was considering getting a tweed suit from them myself (although it is really out of my price range!)

 

[Methuselah]

Yes, Orgetorix has it -
After taking another look at your photos, the one of your back (1st post, 3rd picture) shows a surplus of fabric - clearly designed for hunched up old men! Were you standing naturally when the photo was taken? I find it's hard not to stand to attention in such situations.

 

[Tomasso]

collar does not fit.

That's the first thing I noticed.

 

[cookie]

Biggest problem I see is the balance. Long back, short front balance. It's causing the jacket to collapse into the small of your back above the vents and making the front quarters close and stand away from your body. It's probably also contributing to the ripples under the arms.

He said it.

I was simplistic in my remarks thinking a sizing up one was the answer.

That's the first thing I noticed.

Ditto.

 

[Chasseur]

I agree, Orgetorix's skill with a coup d'oeil does it again! I was standing pretty natural in the photos.

Also as Richard, Tomosso and Cookie point out the collar doesn't fit well at all.


This evening I'll take some more from different angles and different buttoning arrangements and with a nicer shirt.