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Classic Tweed Trousers?

RP McMurphy

One of the Regulars
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121
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North East, USA
Though I did do a search of the forums before starting this thread, I wasn't able to find exactly what I was looking for...

I'm searching for a few good pairs of nicely-made wool trousers in classic tweeds and prints (herringbones, houndstooth, and windowpane prefferably). Also, I'm wondering if they can still be had in heavier weight wools for durability and warmth, as I'd probably wear them during the fall and winter.

I'm looking for a nice cut, somewhere on the trim side (1930's VS 1950's?) though not overly modern either. I found some on Orvis's site... anyone know if their Donegal Tweed trousers are any good?


ANY help is most appreciated!
 

Doublegun

Practically Family
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773
Location
Michigan
I'll be ordering two pair from Bookster next month. So far they have been a pleasure to deal with and have been kind enough to send several swatches of their fabric. If there is a source for better trousers I hope someone will let me know.

Cheers
 

RP McMurphy

One of the Regulars
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121
Location
North East, USA
Excellent!

That's exactly what I was looking for actually... good old fashioned tweeds and woolens. Only trouble is, the trousers are a bit outside of my price range atm... ahh well. Something to save up for at least.

Any suggestions on fabric weights?
 

Creeping Past

One Too Many
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1,567
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England
Fabric weight depends on what you're used to and what you can get used to. Some prefer heavy tweeds, others are happy with lighter ones. The point at which light becomes heavy is a matter of contention among tweed afficionadoes. Some gung ho tweedies would have you believe that anything below 20 oz or thereabouts isn't worth wearing.

Personally, even though I run a little hot, I can wear 15 or 16 oz tweed or flannel trousers most of the year in the UK, up to about 20C. In the winter I wear heavier cloth, up to 22 oz.

You can get more use, year-round, out of a trouser made in a heavier fabric than a jacket made of the same, so you're right to think about buying to wear with separate jackets.
 

RP McMurphy

One of the Regulars
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North East, USA
Good to know, thanks!

That's surprising to hear that heavier wools are often considered more desireable. I suppose I've been brought up to believe that "lighter" is finer... though I suppose it has to do more with the weave?

Based on my (sadly limited) travels of England, I'd say seasons run more or less the same as here in New England (which I affectionatly refer to as the "world's ice-chest") I'll be sure to keep my eyes out for trousers in the weights you described!

If anyone has any more suggestions or passing comments, I'd be happy to bear them mind


Cheers
 

Tomasso

Incurably Addicted
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The heavy tweeds and flannels are problematic in today's overly heated workplaces, most of which have sealed windows. :(
 

RP McMurphy

One of the Regulars
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North East, USA
Tomasso

True, but I'm actually headed for a college campus... not to mention the fact that we have plenty of bitter winters and rainy days hear in New England. Still, I can see how it might be wise to go for a lighter tweed considering how warm air-conditioning is. I suppose in the golden era your clothing was intended to keep you bundled up without the modern conviences of heating... there was a depression or war going on, after all
 

Tomasso

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Funnily enough, the heavy stuff would work well in the over-chilled environs of the modern office (or school) buildings.
 

Edward

Bartender
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London, UK
....and for those who fly regularly. Only on ce did I make the mistake, in high Summer, of bundling my jacket into the overhead locker, wearing only a T shirt against the airconditioning on a 737. Disembarking just over one hour later, I was frozen! lol

Bookster would have been my first suggestion. Also, Old Town I think might be able to provide something in that vein, though they are, if memory serves, less a tweedy company - obviously Bookster's speciality.
 

MisterCairo

I'll Lock Up
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7,005
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Gads Hill, Ontario
Doublegun said:
I'll be ordering two pair from Bookster next month. So far they have been a pleasure to deal with and have been kind enough to send several swatches of their fabric. If there is a source for better trousers I hope someone will let me know.

Cheers

Please let us know how the trousers are when they arrive. Bookster is another clothier (the other is Magnoli) I'm considering ordering from. I also drool over several of the Bookster jackets.
 

RP McMurphy

One of the Regulars
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121
Location
North East, USA
John in Covina said:
These days you can find heavy weight fabrics like wool in hunting clothing catalogs, but are limited to the hunting or outdoorsman styles.

It's a sad truth that mens sports and work wear aren't what they once were. I had similar troubles in trying to find decent plaid workshirts. Those Bookster's do look nice however. If anyone has a pair, could they comment on the fit?
 

Edward

Bartender
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I cannot comment on feeel and fit directly, however one of the gentlemen at the Chap Olympiad was wearing a very nice Bookster three-piece in a sturdy blue wool, which certainly looked the part.
 

Tomasso

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RP McMurphy said:
comment on the fit?
I would suggest that you contact Bookster and request these few basic measurements of the trousers in your size. Then apply the numbers to trousers that you currently wear and you should get a general idea as to fit.




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