Chinese leather jackets

[DamonCyclee]

Hi folks,

Picked up this “Simons” jacket on AliExpress for around $320. It’s supposedly horsehide. The hide is stiff, thin and not grainy. It should break in nicely though.

The question is, should I keep it or return it? It’s a repro of a schott and the hardware and build quality are on par. I think it looks pretty good but I’m on the fence.

Thanks! View attachment 515820

Is this their new Poland Horse hide? Link ?

I mostly look at their taobao store since it's direct, and aliexpress are resellers

 

[KBlake]

Is this their new Poland Horse hide? Link ?

I mostly look at their taobao store since it's direct, and aliexpress are resellers

https://m.aliexpress.com/i/1005002899482747.html

 

[ton312]

Damn that aliexpress almost made me bite!

However...

 

[Canuck Panda]

Cidu's photography game is very good.

The used Jelado ones from Japan can be had for not a lot of cash, the trick is waiting for a larger size to show up. I will post it in the find thread if one ever comes up in the big sizes. These jackets fit extremely small if I remember correctly.

 

[navetsea]

It is a very personal call. This sleeve length would drive me bonkers if it was my jacket, but I can see how it can be okay for some. For me, the sleeve must rest at the base of my thumb, and must be narrow. Anything else and I am not happy. Too bad we cannot have a poll in an individual post, only a thread....

I agree with this the sleeve end is too wide to be that short, i used to like long sleeve that covers half my fist, but now i can tolerate shorter sleeve even that short as your jacket but it needs to taper nicely toward the wrist.

I also see some visible neck-collar gap, are you ok with that? will you wear chunky turtleneck knit under it or scarf often? if you mostly wear the jacket over tshirt I think the collar gap is too big for my own taste.

 

[KBlake]

I have long arms, as did Van, so we are sensitive to short sleeves. Someone who didn't grow up worrying about sleeve length may not have a problem with what we consider as sleeves too short.

I wish the sleeves were a half inch longer and narrower at the cuff. Do you think JL here in SF could accomplish that?

I agree with this the sleeve end is too wide to be that short, i used to like long sleeve that covers half my fist, but now i can tolerate shorter sleeve even that short as your jacket but it needs to taper nicely toward the wrist.

I also see some visible neck-collar gap, are you ok with that? will you wear chunky turtleneck knit under it or scarf often? if you mostly wear the jacket over tshirt I think the collar gap is too big for my own taste.

I agree with what you’re saying. Unfortunately returns to China are expensive. This seller doesn’t offer free returns. I should have checked that in advance but they don’t make the return policy visible up front.

I might have JL taper the wrist for me. If I don’t like it at that point I’ll take it to my consignment shop.

 

[navetsea]

maybe you can shape the collar better when its wet, perhaps hold the jacket upside down and dip the collar in hot water to shrink a bit , and let the excess water drips by hanging the jacket upside down , and when it is no longer dripping but damp, you can help kneading, pinching, and shaping the collar to taper more into your neck, so when dry it will rest better and not jutting out. as for the sleeve I think it does need tapering, I don't know if dipping the sleeve end in hot water can help taper it or not.

 

[KBlake]

maybe you can shape the collar better when its wet, perhaps hold the jacket upside down and dip the collar in hot water to shrink a bit , and let the excess water drips by hanging the jacket upside down , and when it is no longer dripping but damp, you can help kneading, pinching, and shaping the collar to taper more into your neck, so when dry it will rest better and not jutting out. as for the sleeve I think it does need tapering, I don't know if dipping the sleeve end in hot water can help taper it or not.

Thank you for these tips!!

 

[Leigh H]

I'd return it or sell it on ebay at a loss.

It's a tough lesson learned, i've done it myself (see the Cidu thread)

Enticed by the great prices and good photography and then feeling underwhelmed when it arrives and you know deep down it feels awful to wear.

Just suck up the postage costs, It's better than wasting $320.

The leather doesn't look as good as they say and the fit isn't great in my opinion.

 

[handymike]

I’ve been tempted by the low prices, and ultimately I realized that I got way more bang for my buck hunting for vintage jackets.

 

[DamonCyclee]

I’ve been tempted by the low prices, and ultimately I realized that I got way more bang for my buck hunting for vintage jackets.

Just want to chime in here, Aliexpress is not the best places to get the best "value" from the lower end makers out of China. Not to mention Aliexpress resellers add their own fees to buy from Official Taobao store and ship it to you. Their cost to import is very cheap $5/Kg w/ no import tax or duty, just comparing taobao price to what aliexpress charges, looks like 30% upcharge without s&h.

In my experience most of their "stock" jackets are overproduced with local hides or exported hide that has been sprayed with a lot of chemicals to allow them to store for a long time, which in turn changes some natural color of the leather.

The best values are the newly released seasonal styles that sell out within a week, those jackets aren't sprayed down, and the hides and finish usually are much better, ie most likely not sub-contracted out to another factory. Ex. Cidu had released a Mulholland copy in horween dublin, it was gone in a week, then re-release in italian white teacore horsehide, all sold out as well. More recently, they did the Thedi style Cossack in veg tanned goat hide, looks very very good for the value of 1400 rmb with good customer reviews. believe won't show up on aliexpress, but someone can correct me here.

Within the lower ended makers in China, there are also different tiers, they charge from 500RMB up to 3000 RMB, 6x the difference. If anyone buys a 500RMB jacket and expect it to be near 5* level, you will be very very disappointed. IMO the best values are the newly released styles with leather from well known tanneries or do a MTO with them with w.e leather you want. I've seen all the lower end maker do MTO with CFS Kudu on social, seems like the new craze over their in mainland china.

 

[KBlake]

The reason I bought the jacket I posted about is because I got a cidu on grailed for $120 and actually liked the fit and leather. It’s the two-tone one that @Canuck Panda got but it’s a bit loud for me and I wanted something more sedate.

 

[Canuck Panda]

@KBlake I don't think the Simons Schott copy you have is that unwearable. But I would not spend money to have it tailored. The money spent on tailoring could be spent towards the return shipping and get some of your money back for the next jacket.

I still have a Simons jacket, a thick cowhide Langlitz copy. For what I paid (around 250 dollars, pre-Covid pricing) I have zero complains even the sleeves are a bit shorter like KBlakes Schott copy.

Like @DamonCyclee said above, the only way to get these jackets now (2023) is go to Taobao directly. I was wrong about Aliexpress, now that they stop giving free returns, which was still the case before Covid. The prices of Chinese jackets has also increased quite a bit over the past two years, I was just check them last night.

I believe there are still gems in the 300 dollars jacket from China, but it's gonna take a lot of research, same research effort could also be spent on used jackets made outside of China (US/Japan/UK). For example I recently picked up this Sugar Cane jacket for just under 350 shipped. There are also used Aeros/Vansons/Schott in this price range. But what the brand new Chinese jacket can offer is the different designs (like the Langlitz Deathhead).

I would say there are still good deals. Just harder to find them now. Like the good old saying, measure twice, cut once. Buying jacket in the $300 range needs lots of research before purchase.

 

[dinomartino1]

I can honestly say I was one of first people here buying chinese jackets but I never really posted much about them.
I have never bought a jacket off taobao that I did not think was worth more than what I paid for it and if don't like them I can sell them on for what I paid.
Probably around 15 jackets over the years.
In China the way they sell is different, shops make versions of the latest western. japanese, korean etc. fashions.
So you see pictures of the items with photos from fashion magazines etc. with people like Beckham etc. or from Japanese sources wearing the jacket and then the photos of their own product. They don't try to pass their offerings off as the original the problem is the resellers on aliexpress, ebay etc sometimes copy some or whole of the original ads and fail to mention which photos are are the actual item and which are the photos of the product it is based on.
What you will not see on Taobao is photos taken from the original makers webitses with no other photos and then trying to pass it off as their own product which is big problem on greedbay and etsy with sellers from Pakistan and India, I gave up making complaints because they don't do anything.
I see nothing wrong with how the the Chinese do this, nobody has an issue with very expensive Japnese denim that copies levis, lee etc.
Just about all the clothes we buy are copied off a more expensive brand in China they are just more open about it.

 

[Rich22]

I was impressed when I visited the leather shops and workshops in Guangzhou with a friend of mine who buys and exports the stuff. If you demand it, and pay enough, their work can be excellent. If you want to pay peanuts... don't expect much.

 

[dinomartino1]

This horsehide jacket cost less than a schott fur collar.

 

[Technonut]

First post here in quite awhile.... I've had my eye on this repro of the Real McCoy's 1930's Harley Davidson / Aviator jacket at AliExpress for a long time now, and finally decided to take a punt on it... (a $20.00 off coupon helped the decision along)

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803614461423.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.10.21ef18029gAV19&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

For the price paid, I am happily shocked with the quality and construction of this jacket. I have jackets from Goodwear, Aero, etc. in my closet, and this Chinese knock-off is pretty sweet IMO.

The sizing chart at the AliExpress seller's store was bang-on. It fits as well as bespoke jackets I've had made, but it's MUCH too hot for fit pics ATM... While not advertised in the listing, I was also shocked to find that the jacket is made from ITALIAN COWHIDE (I would guess between 1.2-1.3mm thickness)!! Incredible for around $160.00 USD!

EDIT: The Italian cowhide is of obviously good quality, and has the lovely smell of walking into a nice leather goods shop. All of consistent thickness, with no thinner areas in the jacket's construction. Another feature not advertised is that the 'D' pocket incorporates a heavy snap, which opens into a left side hand-warmer. I'm not certain if this feature is present on the RM version, but I actually like it a lot. It's well-done, and not noticeable when snapped. I also quite like the scalloped flap on the small utility pocket, as well as the 'D' pocket pattern it's self.....

The repro Waldes zipper seems sturdy, but only time will tell on that. Nice touch nonetheless IMO. The slash / inside pocket linings are also a bit thin for my liking, and will see how they hold up. The buttoned cuffs are lined with a soft corduroy, which is nice. Here's a few pics until it cools down enough for some nice fit pics in the sunlight:

Here's one of the 1930's originals the jacket is based upon:

And here's the RM version:

EDIT: My phone pics are pretty crappy due to the terrible lighting conditions in my home at times.... These pics from the AliExpress listing however, are accurate to the jacket I received:

 

[Technonut]

I'm so damned pleased with the jacket I purchased above, that I find my fingers itching to grab one of these two next :

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805071208923.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

Looks to be very decent Italian goat, and a classic vintage pattern:

Then, there's this one in a heavier, tea core cowhide:

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805157329271.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

I'm kind of leaning towards the Italian goat TBH, but the cowhide is also pulling me in it's direction.... Decisions, decisions.... Hmmmmmm...

Feel free to weigh-in on which your choice would be......

 

[dinomartino1]

I've seen them both on taobao, I prefer the colour of that goat hide jacket, it's dearer on there than the cowhide one as well.
Ignore the fit pics thats just from taobao the way they compare their jacket to the one they are basing theirs on, as usual this is not made clear by the resellers on aliexpress.
That cowhide jacket, I have one on the way from the same maker in China [curphy] in 1.2mm pony hide.
Some taobao customer review photos of the pony hide jacket.

 

[Technonut]

Ignore the fit pics thats just from taobao the way they compare their jacket to the one they are basing theirs on, as usual this is not made clear by the resellers on aliexpress.

Thanks... I noticed that, and deleted the pic right before reading your post....

The pony hide looks VERY tasty indeed... I more than likely will go with the Italian goat...the color is quite nice. Now, I just need to get it ordered, and STOP looking at yet more jackets! LoL!!! (EDIT: Now, I'm thinking that I'd prefer the Pony hide with scalloped pocket flaps..... DAMNIT!!)