Check out my English Tweed DB

[Sir RBH]

A truly excellent Jacket if I may say so

 

[Alan Eardley]

Pytchley - made in Ipswich if I am not mistaken? I have tried to PM you Alan but your inbox is currently full.

Steve

Steve

Yes, Phillips and Piper in Ipswich. Sorry about the inbox, I can't keep up with it - it's those damn gas mask bags!

I've emptied it, try again...

Alan

 

[carter]

it's those damn gas mask bags!

FYI. I have four of those and only want one or two if anyone here in the US is looking for one. WWII British issue canvas w/ shoulder strap. All have seen service.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

A truly excellent jacket if I may say so.

You may.

.

 

[Edward]

Fortunately it's pretty common, still. Especially in the newer vintages.

bk

The other big bonus is that the countrywear of the upper classes doesn't seem to be subject to the vagaries of fashion, much, meaning that more recent examples can often be picked up that have an earlier look to them at a more reasonable price.

 

[Micawber]

You are right that much countrywear is still traditional in nature but it is not just the upper 'classes' (much as I dislike to use the word in the socio-economic context) who wear tweed. It is of course commonly worn by many from all backgrounds out in the provinces for both casual and sporting purposes. Go out with any syndicate, roughshoot, local hunt or indeed country pub during the winter and you are almost guaranteed to see someone bedecked in some kind of tweed in a traditional cut. Attend any country show during the summer and you will see rows of stalls selling tweeds in a range of RTW & MTM qualities and prices alongside moleskins, waxproofs and Goretex etc.

It's not quite accurate to believe it is confined to the upper strata's

 

[Baron Kurtz]

absolutely. If anything, it's the working man's cloth. The uppers wore it only when out doing country things. The workers didn't have much else and wore it all the time - at least this is the case in my own family.

I claim tweed for the working man! All together now!

Debout, les damn?©s de la terre
Debout, les for?ßats de la faim

bk

 

[Alan Eardley]

absolutely. If anything, it's the working man's cloth. The uppers wore it only when out doing country things. The workers didn't have much else and wore it all the time - at least this is the case in my own family.

I claim tweed for the working man! All together now!

Debout, les damnés de la terre
Debout, les forçats de la faim

bk

Quite so. Paintings of gentleman 'fowlers' (bird hunters with guns) in the 18th and early 19th Century invariably show a style of dress that is more related to modern fox-hunting garb. It is probably from this period that the 'covert coat' derives, as that is where fowling (apart from duck) was done. In the middle of the 19th Century the popularity of moorland shooting (grouse mainly) combined with a fashion (led by Royalty) for adopting artisan dress led to tweed being the uniform for 'guns', keepers and beaters alike. The 'upper classes' (whatever that means) had adopted (and adapted) the habitual garb of the 'workers'. By the early 20th Century it has become difficult to tell who is who in shooting photographs -see some of the photographs of the future Edward VIII. If he wasn't in the centre of the frame, he could be the lad who just brought the sandwiches to the butts.

Alan

 

[Micawber]

Spot on.

I am determined to get something like this made before long..

The above appeared on ebay some three or four years ago, was by Dege and if it had not been a tad on the small size I would have snapped it up. If anyone sees anything similar in a 40 - 42 (note the Guards back and waist seam) please do not hesitate to let me know!

 

[Alan Eardley]

If that was in 36-38 you wouldn't see it for dust (in my direction). The front view is very conventional - just like the Pytchley I picked up the other week but the back is out of this world!

Alan

 

[Micawber]

Yes it is quite something. I am somewhat reluctant to tell you that as far as I can recall it was around a 38" - sorry. As I say this was two or three years ago now, I think it sold for around the £150 mark. I really, really regret not going for it even if the chances of there being sufficient selvedge to enable it to be adjusted for me were nil.

That Guards or frock coat style back is of course still common on hunt coats and the like and can sometimes be seen in period illustrations and photos in tweed. I have seen them illustrated the where the waist seem continues around to the front as per frock coat but do not recall actually seeing one worn.

Edited to add a photo of the label..

...pre Skinner too.

 

[bookster1uk]

Greetings , 'tis a hunting coat design made in keepers tweed, we have such a pattern and may add to our original range in due course.
I'm very glad others are finding vintage tweed so plentiful, better examples are quite scarce in our experience, we come across so many that are way past their best and would never offer them, linings in particular are a disappointment, and as yet, it is not viable for us to re line them, I can see the day when it will be.
Adding to our range on eBay is a huge task, each listing is 'bespoke' , eBay is not geared up for that, in fact they seem to make it more difficult every day for the specialist.Regarding Cookies remark, we usually have around 300 jackets on line, we always have a queue of items 'in the wings', so it is worth looking in often, not necessarly to buy, just to admire some of the gems we turn up.
Even with our experience we still keep finding amazing cloth patterns we have never seen before, which is a real buzz, sadly for me, almost always in sizes too small for me to keep.
bookster

 

[Micawber]

Greetings , 'tis a hunting coat design made in keepers tweed, we have such a pattern and may add to our original range in due course.
I'm very glad others are finding vintage tweed so plentiful, better examples are quite scarce in our experience, we come across so many that are way past their best and would never offer them, linings in particular are a disappointment, and as yet, it is not viable for us to re line them, I can see the day when it will be.
Adding to our range on eBay is a huge task, each listing is 'bespoke' , eBay is not geared up for that, in fact they seem to make it more difficult every day for the specialist.Regarding Cookies remark, we usually have around 300 jackets on line, we always have a queue of items 'in the wings', so it is worth looking in often, not necessarly to buy, just to admire some of the gems we turn up.
Even with our experience we still keep finding amazing cloth patterns we have never seen before, which is a real buzz, sadly for me, almost always in sizes too small for me to keep.
bookster

Hello Peter,
The Dege jacket is a little unusual with its hacking style cut at the front but as you say similar to a hunt coat at the rear. I do not recall often seeing such a jacket out in the field but would be interested to know if you have come across similar. I'm thinking about having something similar commissioned in due course.

Hunt coats with the waist seam extending all the way round a la frock coat and square cut skirts are a work of art. Here are a few photos care of my lad whilst attending the Peterboro' Festival Of Hunting last month.

Steve

 

[Sir RBH]

Ahh.. The Foxhounds show.. I have fond memories of this particular event...

RBH

 

[bookster1uk]

HI Steve ,First let me tip my hat to Sir Royston , Cookie and any other Dandy's or Fogeys I know.
I am very interested in your observations, and the pics ( I am regular at Peterborough in various capacaties but missed that one), but should admit immediately that though we have horses, we only do a little eventing and hacking with no left time to hunt, though many of our friends do. Therefore, we would not profess to be personal experts on the finer points of hunt clothing, but some of the people that work with us are, and we can produce such items, they are just not a high priority for us right now.
Perhaps interestingly, we are already working on adapting a hunt coat pattern we have, with square cut skirts, to use with other than traditional hunting cloths, I certainly want one for myself as a 'fashion' item. We do have serious exclusively sporting clients for whom we make show jackets, and a number for cubbing etc, but interest in our garments are from both Town & Country folk,some for use in both situations,that is how we have 'set out our stall'.We could learn a great deal from you I am sure, and I appreciate your response, contact me anytime if you think we may be able to be of any assistance.Tally Ho, Peter