Casual double rider jacket - SB Oakland, or Aero King of the Road?

[3.14nche]

True but from the earlier post and samples I don't think @NamoAmituofo meant unfinished.
But maybe I got it wrong.

 

[NamoAmituofo]

If it's any help here's russet goat and natural CXL side by side.
View attachment 610017
As for lining I find that by the time it's too hot for a jacket it does not make that much of a difference.
If I had to pick a jacket to wear when it's hotter it would probably be my coton sateen lined Vicenza Board Racer mainly because it is significantly lighter than the 2 jackets above.

thank you very much for the comparison pics - much appreciated!

 

[NamoAmituofo]

definitely dont want the 'unfinished' type - I'm looking for a rich tan or light colour than brown. I've ordered 4 more samples from Aero - Vicenza: Russet, pinnacle cognac, badalassi russet, and rust goat suede

a radical thought - unlined suede?

 

[Canuck Panda]

Top left - CXL HH natural

Bottom left - goat russet from Aero (too bad it’s too dark for me liking)

Top right - Blattwerk Mahogany (my fav color)

Bottom right - Mustang natural HH from SB


View attachment 610004

Nice to see all the samples side by side, thanks for the photo.

FWIW, I have both the SB Daytona and Aero Daytona (may be similar to KOTR in fit), both in size 40. SB has a straight torso fit, with very slim sleeves. Aero has the Cafe Racer V body fit with Cafe Racer tapering sleeves. The price difference was always around £100 give or take between the two brands for me.

The natural CXL is really nice leather, can be a bit rigid but huge patina potential. But you mention you want a lightweight summer jacket and Pinnacle HH may be the better choice, or even squeaky Badalassi Russet. The new Pinnacle Mahogany HH should be close in color as the Blattwerk Mahogany. First batch was close to Badalassi Russet.

The Mahogany Blattwerk is also really nice, complete opposite to CXL, it is soft to touch and drape like deerskin (or Aeros new Pinnacle). I keep going back to look at the Mahogany Blattwerk leather myself. I actually had one on order many years ago when it first came out but changed my order to speed things up and now I kick myself.

If you do go with SB, get customized Daytona. See if they can build it off the Tailgunner pattern torso shape, that’s a proven one. SB Daytona size 40 is 22” P2P but almost straight down. Aero Daytona size 40 is 23“ P2P tapers to 20” ish at the waist. SB Tailgunner size 42 is 23” P2P tapers to 21”.

Raw horsehide either Comipel or Maryan is an acquired taste like CXL. Both Pinnacle and Blattwerk are safer bets as they’re already color finished and only slight change as it patinas, you don’t have to wait for three years for it to mature.

 

[NamoAmituofo]

Nice to see all the samples side by side, thanks for the photo.

FWIW, I have both the SB Daytona and Aero Daytona (may be similar to KOTR in fit), both in size 40. SB has a straight torso fit, with very slim sleeves. Aero has the Cafe Racer V body fit with Cafe Racer tapering sleeves. The price difference was always around £100 give or take between the two brands for me.

The natural CXL is really nice leather, can be a bit rigid but huge patina potential. But you mention you want a lightweight summer jacket and Pinnacle HH may be the better choice, or even squeaky Badalassi Russet. The new Pinnacle Mahogany HH should be close in color as the Blattwerk Mahogany. First batch was close to Badalassi Russet.

The Mahogany Blattwerk is also really nice, complete opposite to CXL, it is soft to touch and drape like deerskin (or Aeros new Pinnacle). I keep going back to look at the Mahogany Blattwerk leather myself. I actually had one on order many years ago when it first came out but changed my order to speed things up and now I kick myself.

If you do go with SB, get customized Daytona. See if they can build it off the Tailgunner pattern torso shape, that’s a proven one. SB Daytona size 40 is 22” P2P but almost straight down. Aero Daytona size 40 is 23“ P2P tapers to 20” ish at the waist. SB Tailgunner size 42 is 23” P2P tapers to 21”.

Raw horsehide either Comipel or Maryan is an acquired taste like CXL. Both Pinnacle and Blattwerk are safer bets as they’re already color finished and only slight change as it patinas, you don’t have to wait for three years for it to mature.

I’m very grateful to the detailed info and sound advice. I will ask Debs if she can customize the Daytona - with a back top like roadster or tailgunner. I need 19 shoulder, 22-23 chest and 20 hem.

Does your SB Daytona have tie strings on side panels like Vanson? I’m not too keen on this detail and prefer a cleaner look. If hem tapers to 20 there is no need for those strings given I’ve a 31-32 waist and there is a belt!

 

[Aloysius]

I’m very grateful to the detailed info and sound advice. I will ask Debs if she can customize the Daytona - with a back top like roadster or tailgunner. I need 19 shoulder, 22-23 chest and 20 hem.

Does your SB Daytona have tie strings on side panels like Vanson? I’m not too keen on this detail and prefer a cleaner look. If hem tapers to 20 there is no need for those strings given I’ve a 31-32 waist and there is a belt!

There are SB fans here but I would not risk it.

Leaving aside the chance of them messing up, at the end of the day you're going to be throwing down 80% of the cost to get a jacket that is not the jacket you wanted. That is the road to regret.

If the 'substitute' jacket were a third of the cost or something I wouldn't be warning you against it in the same way.

 

[NamoAmituofo]

There are SB fans here but I would not risk it.

Leaving aside the chance of them messing up, at the end of the day you're going to be throwing down 80% of the cost to get a jacket that is not the jacket you wanted. That is the road to regret.

If the 'substitute' jacket were a third of the cost or something I wouldn't be warning you against it in the same way.

Precisely why I post here to get good advice to avoid road to regret. I also consider aero resale value would be a lot higher than SB.

Decision decision decision. Sleep on this for a while. No need to rush for a dream jacket.

I’ve been wearing my HWM a lot lately and it does beg the question why buy another jacket if it’s perfect for me?! A summer jacket may just be a perfect excuse!

I keep koi and that’s my main expensive hobby. In the koi community we have a joke ‘just one more fish’

 

[Aloysius]

I’ve been wearing my HWM a lot lately and it does beg the question why buy another jacket if it’s perfect for me?! A summer jacket may just be a perfect excuse!

Even though the type of leather won't make a huge difference to warmth, unless it's fur, a cross-zip would inherently mean two layers of leather on your chest. Not quite summery!

 

[Canuck Panda]

I’m very grateful to the detailed info and sound advice. I will ask Debs if she can customize the Daytona - with a back top like roadster or tailgunner. I need 19 shoulder, 22-23 chest and 20 hem.

Does your SB Daytona have tie strings on side panels like Vanson? I’m not too keen on this detail and prefer a cleaner look. If hem tapers to 20 there is no need for those strings given I’ve a 31-32 waist and there is a belt!

Aero Daytona (should be similar in fits to KOTR I think, best to double check with Aero)

SB Daytona

Ther Aero has bigger P2P but it's quite misleading because there is a sharp taper, and if I pull the SB a bit I can probably get another 1/2". They fit about the same, except Aero has better upper sleeve set up, the SB always too slim and this impacts mobility. Tailgunner doesn't have this issue though.

The Aero pattern fit imo is more flattering than the SB one, especially for fit guys. But SB can also get here by going with their Tailgunner pattern, just not their straight body Daytona pattern. So the custom order would be for a Tailgunner with Xzip front and not their Daytona. I don't think the SB Daytona pattern can be easily tapered, it was developed for guys carrying a bit more weight in the belly. I am still trying to find ways to fix mine. If you are fit guy, Tailgunner is your building block.

The leather you have to see for yourself. It will be a show down between cognac pinnacle and cognac blattwerk imo. The Pinnacle and the Blattwerk has very different hand feels, one is more wet/oily and other is velvet and a bit of oil, both very soft and perfect for easy wearing jackets, closest to textile drape but horsehide strong. There is also the color difference, but both are more "tan" than brown, one is more British tan with some orange-y red and the other is more yellow tan.

My main reason that I bought my SB jackets weren't because it was always a bit less (£100 ish), or because they won't say no to any customization requests, but because some of the leathers SB carries. If Aero has the same or comparable leather I would go with Aero. Both Aero and SB has great service, but Aero always goes one step beyong in post sale service. So I can understand your situation. I am sort of still in this situation as I would still like a cognac blattwerk jacket. Except I cannot find this leather on my own, otherwise I'd already suggested JL M-500 or WWL-41. So if it's cognac blattwerk then it's SB, or if you chose cognac Pinnacle then it's Aero.

If you can pleast post a side by side leather pic of the blatwerk and the pinnacle when you get the sample. thanks.

 

[Aloysius]

Just (another) two cents:

Going with another jacket "with the design of the KotR" will ultimately prove dissatisfying. I know this from experience.

When I ordered my Indian Ranger through Thurston, I didn't know their policy was to simply order a Ridley with the pocket setup of your desired jacket. I am sure that a lot of people prefer that, but ultimately the different pattern sits and wears differently; I never got that super V-shaped 40s jacket that I wanted.

Likewise, the KotR replicates the shape of the Sears Hercules really nicely; I don't think getting a Vincent or SB with a similar pocket configuration will give you the look. (The KotR is the other Aero cross-zip I like best, and my bad experience with the Ridleyfied IR has me that much more aware of what could go wrong.)

 

[NamoAmituofo]

Thank you guys appreciate it as always. After ordering pinnacle cognac sample I realized it’s not a customization option for KotR. Email sent to Holly to clarify.

One thing to note is the blattwerk mahogany sample I got was quite dry - driest if all samples - almost feel if it got wet or dirty it’d be hard to avoid watermarks or stains. I actually prefer a wet and waxy finish so long as it has the right tan shade.

The quest continues

 

[Marc mndt]

if I settle for anything else, like a Daytona (with the plain back) - this will always haunt me and make me order a KoTR eventually. So I thought - buy it once, buy what I really want, and be done with that.

Wise words.

This is what I've learned from experience. Going for the cheaper option will be more expensive in the long run because eventually you're going to buy the more expensive item anyways. That or you'll keep thinking about it: "shouldn't I have bought the KOTR?"

Also, don't underestimate the importance of aftersales. Especially with custom made items that can't be tried on before purchasing while they can't be returned if you're not happy with the fit (unless it doesn't meet the agreed upon specifications). Simmons Bilt doesn't have a great track record in this regard.

 

[moktabe]

Aero will also do a bit of a mix and match if you ask nicely

I have cross zip with a J-106 front and a KOR back in black badalassi.

Stunning jacket.

 

[NamoAmituofo]

Aero will also do a bit of a mix and match if you ask nicely

I have cross zip with a J-106 front and a KOR back in black badalassi.

Stunning jacket.

Would you be so kind as to post a fit pic? Aero quoted me £100 extra for this combo. How bad is the badalassi squeaking?

 

[TartuWolf]

Aero will also do a bit of a mix and match if you ask nicely

I have cross zip with a J-106 front and a KOR back in black badalassi.

Stunning jacket.

Pics or didn't happen. Many pics.

 

[moktabe]

Pics...

45" chest and 34" waist. Aero trimmed the hem down to fit.

The squeaking eases the more you wear but not sure it'll ever stop altogether.

 

[NamoAmituofo]

Pics...

45" chest and 34" waist. Aero trimmed the hem down to fit.

The squeaking eases the more you wear but not sure it'll ever stop altogether.

View attachment 610234 View attachment 610235

That’s a beauty!!

 

[Edward]

If it's any help here's russet goat and natural CXL side by side.
View attachment 610017
As for lining I find that by the time it's too hot for a jacket it does not make that much of a difference.
If I had to pick a jacket to wear when it's hotter it would probably be my coton sateen lined Vicenza Board Racer mainly because it is significantly lighter than the 2 jackets above.

The only leather jacket I've ever managed to wear in much above 18 Celsius heat was a Wested Raiders in goat. The bit that made it unbearable first was the satin lining in the sleeves, which stuck to me with the slightest hint of any sort of perspiration. I'd take cotton over satin every single time.

Also used to have an Aero A2 in goat with a silk/cotton red lining of some sort - that was a nice compromise, breathable, and not too heavy, about the same weight as the standard cotton A2 lining. Lighter than drill.,

The only leather jacket I'd even begin to consider for actual Summer wear these days would be an Aero Shackleton in goat.... *maybe* with a drill back... or another Wested Indy.

 

[NamoAmituofo]

Good point re sweaty satin!

I intend to wear this late spring /early summer jacket unzipped, except when heading out in morning when it can be a chilly 10-12d in London before the sun is fully up. Also if I come home late after sunset I can zip up when temps drop to sub 15.

Holly said they have Pinnacle cognac so I wait to receive the sample, alongside squeaky badalassi russet and rust goat suede.

Anyone wear suede unlined? Not sure if suede can soak up too much sweat but then again if it’s really sweaty I’ll be out in a r shirt and shorts

 

[Aloysius]

Good point re sweaty satin!

I intend to wear this late spring /early summer jacket unzipped, except when heading out in morning when it can be a chilly 10-12d in London before the sun is fully up. Also if I come home late after sunset I can zip up when temps drop to sub 15.

Holly said they have Pinnacle cognac so I wait to receive the sample, alongside squeaky badalassi russet and rust goat suede.

Anyone wear suede unlined? Not sure if suede can soak up too much sweat but then again if it’s really sweaty I’ll be out in a r shirt and shorts

I wouldn't recommend trying to wear a leather jacket on the basis that you expect it to soak up sweat... This really just that this is a bad idea. I think the King of the Road is an amazing jacket (the Sears Hercules it's based on is probably my favourite D-Pocket motorcycle jacket) and it's a great choice, but none of these things are suitable for the summer. If there's a fluke day that's rainier or colder, absolutely; but as intended summer wear it is a poor option I think.

I found even a lightweight wax jacket to be not breathable enough for London in the summer (or indeed even early autumn). And I'm not someone generally prone to go about in minimal clothing. I quite comfortably and regularly wore tailoring in the summer, but summery wool jackets (even if not buggy-lined though that helps) are infinitely more wearable than leather in such conditions.

As for unlined suede, yes several of us have roughout jackets, which lend themselves well to designs like jean-style jackets. But if you go ahead and get one of those new I reckon you'll have spent the cost of the KotR on yet another jacket that isn't what you actually want.