Can you mix and match tuxedo jackets and trousers?

[David Ward]

Friends,
I own a tuxedo that I am very happy with, however, I would like to switch out the jacket for a special occasion, to a tailed jacket. These jackets on their own are very affordable and I could save a considerable amount by buying the jacket alone and matching it to a pair of trousers.

Should I avoid this at all cost, and be barred from this board for suggesting it? I'm rather hoping that my mixing garments is acceptable when it comes to tuxedo material, but am willing to be told otherwise! Thoughts?

David

 

[William Stratford]

Friends,
I own a tuxedo that I am very happy with, however, I would like to switch out the jacket for a special occasion, to a tailed jacket. These jackets on their own are very affordable and I could save a considerable amount by buying the jacket alone and matching it to a pair of trousers.

Should I avoid this at all cost, and be barred from this board for suggesting it? I'm rather hoping that my mixing garments is acceptable when it comes to tuxedo material, but am willing to be told otherwise! Thoughts?

David

Hello there.

Generally speaking, trousers see more wear than jackets, so if you wear the trousers more often with a different jacket they will look far more worn when paired back with original the DJ. That said, if it is a little black ensemble, finding a new pair of black trousers should not be troublesome at a later date.

 

[dhermann1]

What do you mean "tailed jacket"? Do you mean a tail coat? Keep in mind that to do a tail coat properly, you'll need a white waistcoat, a shirt with a wing collar, (preferably marcela front or "boiled" shirt), and white bow tie.
As far as the trousers are concerned, the tradition in Britain is that for a tuxedo, or dinner jacket, you wear trousers with a single stripe down the side. For white tie, it's a double stripe. That rule has been out the window in the US for a long time.
Check the Formal Primer thread for a lot more info.

 

[Rathdown]

The short answer is don't do it, for a couple of reasons:

1. It is doubtful that the rise on a pair of trousers intended to be worn with a dinner jacket will be high enough when worn with a tails coat. That being the case, the dreaded "gaposis" will occur and you will look like a hick.

2. I disagree with the idea that the two narrow stripes on evening trousers has gone out the window in the USA. I had new evening clothes made in Washington DC this past February and the trousers were delivered with two stripes. The rental industry may, for the sake of simplifying store inventories, only provide single striped trousers, but reputable tailors do not. To those in the know, a single stripe on your evening clothes will make you look like a hick.

 

[suits lover]

Buying a white tie would be the best thing to do. Just a tailed coat mixed with a tuxedo pant will not look correct.

 

[MikeBravo]

As far as the trousers are concerned, the tradition in Britain is that for a tuxedo, or dinner jacket, you wear trousers with a single stripe down the side. For white tie, it's a double stripe. That rule has been out the window in the US for a long time.
Check the Formal Primer thread for a lot more info.

That's interesting. I have not read that in any of the books or online articles (so far)

 

[Edward]

The short answer is don't do it, for a couple of reasons:

1. It is doubtful that the rise on a pair of trousers intended to be worn with a dinner jacket will be high enough when worn with a tails coat. That being the case, the dreaded "gaposis" will occur and you will look like a hick.

Got to be careful sometimes even with contemporary white tie trousers. I've found that many "tuxedo tails" are cut to a modern lower-waisted design, so if you paired the trousers designed to go with those to a vintage tailcoat, it'd definitely give this problem. The biggest difficulty I find is the white waist coats made today being too long and falling below the jacket line. Still preferable to them being too short and not covering the trouser waistband, though.

2. I disagree with the idea that the two narrow stripes on evening trousers has gone out the window in the USA. I had new evening clothes made in Washington DC this past February and the trousers were delivered with two stripes. The rental industry may, for the sake of simplifying store inventories, only provide single striped trousers, but reputable tailors do not. To those in the know, a single stripe on your evening clothes will make you look like a hick.

Single stripe with tails was a pronounced enough trend to be a norm for a fair chunk of the Thirties, I gather, though certainly in the modern era it is, in common with pocket flaps and notch lapels on a DJ, far more about simplifying mass-production than a specific style-choice.

 

[Undertow]

Buying a white tie would be the best thing to do. Just a tailed coat mixed with a tuxedo pant will not look correct.

Right. If you mix a tailcoat with a pair of single-stripe dinner trousers, you're going to look like a waiter. Either wear White Tie or wear Black Tie. Don't mix the two.

 

[sproily]

Like Edward said, there is no consistency in what was worn or instructed back in the day. Single or double-stripes were both worn with white tie.

It's not a problem unless you are a purist. I would wear the black tie trousers with white tie jacket IF they are the same weight, colour and weave as the jacket.

 

[avedwards]

I would wear the black tie trousers with white tie jacket IF they are the same weight, colour and weave as the jacket.

This is by far the most important consideration. If they match, then wear them regardless of the number of stripes.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

:arated:

This is by far the most important consideration. If they match, then wear them regardless of the number of stripes.

It is really hard to tell if you want to bu from ebay or other internet sources. Don't underestimate it. Just because it is black it won't match automatically.

 

[dhermann1]

Thanks, Edward. I would just reiterate, the main considerations would be how well the material matched, and how well tailored they are. We've all seen that pic of GW Bush with the Queen and Prince Philip, with the president's waistcoat sticking out way below his jacket.
White tie is a total hoot to wear, but get the basics correct. And that includes footwear. No dull HushPuppies, please!

 

[Undertow]

I'd like to submit this picture to support my previous statement:

I guess as long as you don't look like this poor guy, you're ok.

 

[McMurdo]

One thing I am always wary of is mixing formality, if you want to go ahead with it you can. I however would not. Put it this way, if you have 2 navy suits, for example would you wear one jacket with the pants from the other? Of course not, therefore don't make the mistake with a dinner jacket. Both Black and White tie dress come with rules like it or not, so please get to know what those rules are and follow them at least when Black or White tie are requested, your host will appreciate it if you do. Individuality can be expressed when wearing day wear.

 

[sproily]

Of course I would, if the fabric was identical and the cut was fitting.

With black tie and white tie, they both use black wool barathea, though of varying thickness, weight and weave. If all of these criteria match, I'd say go ahead.

 

[Chasseur]

Of course I would, if the fabric was identical and the cut was fitting.

This is really the key. IF the fabric was the same its possible, but unless you had it all specially made or from the same maker its hard to do this. A couple of American makers (Brooks Brothers I believe, and others) make these interchangeable because they are all made from the same fabric, you can buy one set of trousers to work with both the dinner jacket and the evening tail coat, etc. But mixing and matching different pieces from different cloth and cuts will likely look very bad.

 

[McMurdo]

One other thing to consider is wear, matching two garments that have been worn and cleaned a different number of times is nigh on impossible.

 

[Edward]

I'd like to submit this picture to support my previous statement:

I guess as long as you don't look like this poor guy, you're ok.

Looks like he's on his way to a hipster costume party, dressed as a bad waiter in a sleazy restaurant with ideas above its station.